Is this DIY ATO Float a bad idea

Jyetman

Active member
I've already been laughed at by my friends so be easy on me! Its been connected to my apex now for nearly a month without a problem is this eventually going to crap out on me? Just experimenting the safety pins are stainless steel. If not exposed to saltwater will they still rust? If so can I coat them with something like oil? Going to buy a real float to install as the backup fail safe just incase. They are so dang expensive floats start at $15.00 and up.
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umm.. wow :)
You can pick up 2 float switches on ebay for $1.34 each (free shipping).. Even at $15 dollars its well worth doing it right when you look at what "could" happen when it fails.. and it will

yes.. even stainless will rust when in "salty/damp/humid" environments.. and fairly quickly.

I'm the "bubblegum/toothpick fix it master" but thats just too ghetto even for me.. :P
 
umm.. wow :)
You can pick up 2 float switches on ebay for $1.34 each (free shipping).. Even at $15 dollars its well worth doing it right when you look at what "could" happen when it fails.. and it will

yes.. even stainless will rust when in "salty/damp/humid" environments.. and fairly quickly.

I'm the "bubblegum/toothpick fix it master" but thats just too ghetto even for me.. :P

Can you post a link to these $1.34 floats? If they are really that cheap then I can definitely afford several floats.
 
Just bought the 5 pack from amazon for $15.00 feel like an idiot now! LOL

Anyone interested in buying a cheap DIY float? LOLOL
 
Make sure you seal the top somehow. The ones I had appeared to be sealed but they still got moisture in the switch and they failed. I am not familiar with the Apex but is there a way to use a timer with the float switch. That way if the float does fail it will only dispense what is allowed by the timer.
 
You are only limited by your imagination with what you CAN do with an ATO system. Just remember, the more complicated the plumbing the easier it is to stop up the drain.
 
Make sure you seal the top somehow. The ones I had appeared to be sealed but they still got moisture in the switch and they failed. I am not familiar with the Apex but is there a way to use a timer with the float switch. That way if the float does fail it will only dispense what is allowed by the timer.

I simply slide some vinyl tubing over the end and extend it over the max water level..

and I'd hope the apex has that functionality.. on my controller (reef angel) you can set a max time that it will allow the ato pump to be on for and if that time is exceeded the alarm turns on and it stops the pumps.

or you can just wire up 2 switches a high and a low and use the high as another failsafe.
 
This is the switch I bought. So I should still seal the top can I use silicon?
switch.JPG

When you get the float, look at the top where the wires go into it. If it's not sealed, then seal it well!! Make sure you get the stuff between the wires as well as into the shaft that the wires go into. Silicone is one option but I would probably lean towards epoxy over silicone. Salt water intrusion of any kind will cause premature failure and reliability issues. There is a reason why some floats cost more than others. As you already know from my response in your other post, I don't use those floats nor would I. You asked for the source of the $5 Amazon floats mentioned by another member so I pointed them out to you. Floats designed for salt water aquariums have taken stuff like that into consideration. Hopefully these are decent quality. Who knows, maybe the wires are already sealed and sealed well where they go into the shaft.
 
Just because I haven't seen it mentioned yet, it's not a good idea to use the relay on the power cord of the ATO pump. Instead, get a relay and low voltage/current wall wart from radio shack and use the power from the wall wart to trigger the relay to provide power to the pump.

The linked float valve mentions this:
Note: because the current that the switch can carry is much little(0.5A), you must use a relay or contactor when it is connected by a load, relay and contactor are not included here.

Aside from the engrish and current mentioned, another danger is 120 VAC in the tank water if the seal of the switch fails. So be safe, use a relay.

When I finally get around to building an ATO, I'll be using 2 of these. The bottom switch will control ATO pump on/off, the top will kill power to the pump to prevent overflows in the event the main switch gets stuck.
 
Just because I haven't seen it mentioned yet, it's not a good idea to use the relay on the power cord of the ATO pump. Instead, get a relay and low voltage/current wall wart from radio shack and use the power from the wall wart to trigger the relay to provide power to the pump.

The linked float valve mentions this:

Aside from the engrish and current mentioned, another danger is 120 VAC in the tank water if the seal of the switch fails. So be safe, use a relay.

When I finally get around to building an ATO, I'll be using 2 of these. The bottom switch will control ATO pump on/off, the top will kill power to the pump to prevent overflows in the event the main switch gets stuck.

Think my Apex controller has safety precautions built in if I'm not mistaken.
 
Think my Apex controller has safety precautions built in if I'm not mistaken.

yeah you just have switch inputs on the controller..
their suggestion while not applicable in this case is still great info for others that don't have controllers.
Its always better to run low voltage DC down the float switch wires vs AC line voltage.
 
You need more than one. You need redundant backup as well, for both high and low water level. However, these things need not be so complicated, nor is there much advantage to using digital controls. Your failsafe systems (redundant backup) should be the opposite tech from the main system: Electrical use mechanical failsafe, mechanical use electrical. Either way, you are going to need electrical...
 
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