It's time, let's see those SPS tanks using LEDs 1 year or longer

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And you will likely give yourself a nice little sunburn if you look at the unshielded DE bulb long enough - and could end up harming your fish/coral as well.

My intent was not to start an argument. Just stating the facts. I personally run SE MH bulbs. I agree unshielded DE bulbs can pose harm to humans. I also know that some LED manufacturers are now providing UV bulbs.

I would actually like to see some well done SPS LED systems. I would also like to see some pictures of long term growth. I have been looking into some of these setups myself just like the OP, as the heat involved with running a MH setup, and the reliance on chillers is a definite downside.
 
I didn't want someone reading your post and misinterpreting it to say that a person could run DE without shields. Sorry if it came across wrong.

I'm actually converting to LED right now. I'm doing my 40B frag tank first, and then I'll be converting my 120g over. I'll be documenting everything and gauging growth, so it should be a good test. But I will say that it is definitely doable.

Go check out the tampa bay forum and read the post "diy led" - that OP has a 4'x8' reef that has plenty of SPS growing. And he is not using Cree to boot. That is what sold me. Not having to spend $900 on just LED bulbs.
 
I didn't mean to start this thread to start an argument regarding the use of LEDs on sps tanks, I just wanted to see some established tanks that have been using them for an extended period of time.

With that said I have no problem with debates regarding the use of them, and honestly I kinda of had a feeling the thread would go off on tangents like this, for one reason, and that is with all my reasearch there really arent that many long term pics of of led tanks, there are a lot of tanks and people that sware by them but have very few corals in the tank, and few sps, and have been running them for weeks yet they sware to them lol.

To sum it up, I am sure there are plenty of reefers that love to sps, but maybe I should have titled the thread "show me your sps corals that love LEDS" lol

I also think there would be less arguments if the thread contained more FTS of established LED systems.
 
there are some success with them LED's but IME and IMHO needs time for users to get used to.
The colors IME simply lack compared to other technologies. Perhaps is because our eyes, or at least mine have been trained to see sps under Mh's/vho's/t5's.

I did test drove those units for over 6 months with debatable success. SPS can be kept but not to my liking in terms of colors and overall satsifaction.
 
Perhaps is because our eyes, or at least mine have been trained to see sps under Mh's/vho's/t5's.

I'm sure, but which look do you like better? I dropped by my LFS today and noted they swapped out a MH/T5 for a Vertex LED. I never liked the tank with the MH/T5 combo (wrong bulbs I'm sure) but thought wow that looks great under the Vertex. Then he told me the whites were running @ 50 %! So much for that excitement. Ways to go in the LED end of things IMHO.
 
I'm sure, but which look do you like better? I dropped by my LFS today and noted they swapped out a MH/T5 for a Vertex LED. I never liked the tank with the MH/T5 combo (wrong bulbs I'm sure) but thought wow that looks great under the Vertex. Then he told me the whites were running @ 50 %! So much for that excitement. Ways to go in the LED end of things IMHO.

My perfect combo (OLD fashion) but the best colors EVER. 20k plus vho supps.

I currently run an ATI unit and I'm getting some colors that are excellent.
 
This thread will be a mile long in about a year
LEDs are catching on quick
metal halide ballast are a dime a dozen
plus there's alot of people waiting for the new
ai nanos and maxspects to come out
I really feel the trick is using LEDs
with t5s as supplement
 
i got a sps system running for almost a year with 200w led. The corals are growing pretty fast, i got some isues with cyano, and i am still trying to get my no3 near 0.. (atm its 0.5-1) Some corals are pieces from my older system, witch was running t5, they are doing just fine. I dont have to may pictures atm of my system, but here is a few quick ones:

I know the colors arent there yet, but that is due to some water quiclity isues i had a few month back, where everything browned out, and a few things died. (sudden po4 boom...) everything is recovering fine now though :)
 

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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1950575

Tank shots throughout that thread that have been running for several months now. Would be interesting to see them post growth in six months or so.

Agreed would like to see some updates, there are a lot of threads and tanks out there with inital pics of LEDS but no follow ups.

there are some success with them LED's but IME and IMHO needs time for users to get used to.
The colors IME simply lack compared to other technologies. Perhaps is because our eyes, or at least mine have been trained to see sps under Mh's/vho's/t5's.

I did test drove those units for over 6 months with debatable success. SPS can be kept but not to my liking in terms of colors and overall satsifaction.

I have a similar thinking, I dont doubt at all that you can grow corals under LEDs my main concern is can they trhive and can you get the best colors out of sps.

I'm sure, but which look do you like better? I dropped by my LFS today and noted they swapped out a MH/T5 for a Vertex LED. I never liked the tank with the MH/T5 combo (wrong bulbs I'm sure) but thought wow that looks great under the Vertex. Then he told me the whites were running @ 50 %! So much for that excitement. Ways to go in the LED end of things IMHO.

This is another concern I have, but this can be said for any lighting. I mean if you run the whites (daylights) very low and turn up the the blue isnt that the same as taking a pic under actinic or supplemental lighting?

My perfect combo (OLD fashion) but the best colors EVER. 20k plus vho supps.

I currently run an ATI unit and I'm getting some colors that are excellent.

Same boat as me, I run the ATI PM, it is a beast, my tank does very well with it, I have some great colors and growth, but I dont think the colors are quite as good as Radiums and actinics combined. Which is what made me thinking of switching back Radiums, with maybe some t5 supplents or lately maybe some led Royal blues with the radiums. But then I saw those new Maspects and I they would look cool on my tank lol.
 
This thread will be a mile long in about a year
LEDs are catching on quick
metal halide ballast are a dime a dozen
plus there's alot of people waiting for the new
ai nanos and maxspects to come out
I really feel the trick is using LEDs
with t5s as supplement

I would agree that LEDS are catching on faster and faster but a lot of people love them after three weeks of use lol. Sorry, but havening been around this hobby for a good amount of time, it takes time and stability for tanks which is why I wanted to see some of the "longer" term use of them

I wouldnt say MH ballasts are a dime a dozen, the better ones, like the select a watts are still kind of hard to find used and not that cheap, the radium ballasts in general are still "harder" to come by, and I do see people swithcing back to MH

Combination lighting may be key, but I thought that T5s can wash away the LED look to a certain extent.
 
i got a sps system running for almost a year with 200w led. The corals are growing pretty fast, i got some isues with cyano, and i am still trying to get my no3 near 0.. (atm its 0.5-1) Some corals are pieces from my older system, witch was running t5, they are doing just fine. I dont have to may pictures atm of my system, but here is a few quick ones:

I know the colors arent there yet, but that is due to some water quiclity isues i had a few month back, where everything browned out, and a few things died. (sudden po4 boom...) everything is recovering fine now though :)

Looking good, sorry about the cyna and weater quality problems, always a pain on newer systems, just a throught your rocks may be leaching which will take some time and patients to get through. Good luck.
 
Same boat as me, I run the ATI PM, it is a beast, my tank does very well with it, I have some great colors and growth, but I don't think the colors are quite as good as Radiums and actinics combined. Which is what made me thinking of switching back Radiums, with maybe some t5 supplements or lately maybe some led Royal blues with the radiums. But then I saw those new Maspects and I they would look cool on my tank lol.

I am currently using two radiums and 4 geismanns over a 120, and the color is perfect. I am not sure I can match it with any other setup. With that said though I just had my controller shut off my lights at 5:30 yesterday because my tank reached 82. I had left the house closed up on a hot day, it was like 85 - 90 degrees inside my house. This has happened to me a few times, and if/when my chiller goes out, until it is replaced I won't be able to run my lights for long. A definite drawback for sure.

From what I have been looking into, my two concerns is total spectrum from the LEDs, and the light spread.

MY MH are putting out UV-A light. I don't know how much of this the coral needs, and I don't know how much if any the LEDs put out. I have seen a few systems and it looks like the light is the same temperature as a similar MH setup. There appear to be UV-A LEDs now, and maybe that is the missing piece of the puzzle? Are they growing pot under LEDs yet, seriously?

The spread also is a concern. I have only seen a couple systems in place at various LFS and most look like a couple of flashlights shining in the tank. A "beam" of light. I am sure these are cheap LED systems so my opinion may be unfair. I think this can be mitigated if you raise the lights. One of the posters in this thread had his lights quite a bit higher than most conventional lights are mounted, I am guessing this is why. This certainly gives you more room to work on the tank. My system is built into a bookcase, and I have 2 feet over the tank to do this, so it is not a problem for me. I have been eying the AI LED modules and I think I would probably need 3 mounted very high to get away from the beam effect. The amount of PAR these units put out make them doable at 2 feet high I think. Being able to control them with my apex would also be pretty nice.

Let's see some more pictures!
 
well in 10 more months i'll show you some pics. I used to run 400w radiums and never saw the growth that i am getting under my 120 leds over my 96x24x20 tank. running 50/50 rb/cw. colors are better than what i had with my radiums, i ran my radiums on HQI ballasts. my last tank,180g took a few months, 4-6 until i needed mt carx, this tank took 1 month until i needed to start dosing and am working on the carx right now. i am using just shy of 2dkh alk a day and 20ppm ca. only have two softball sized colonies and about 20 frags.
 
Looking good, sorry about the cyna and weater quality problems, always a pain on newer systems, just a throught your rocks may be leaching which will take some time and patients to get through. Good luck.

tnx, i dont think its from the rocks, i dont know what happened to be sure. Probaly becaus i feed to well, to keep my anthias fed, and forgot to exchange the rowaphos ;)

converting the system to biopellets i a week or so, running old style sulfor filter now.
 
This is another concern I have, but this can be said for any lighting. I mean if you run the whites (daylights) very low and turn up the the blue isnt that the same as taking a pic under actinic or supplemental lighting?

Yes, you can get the blue color that brings out flourescent pigments. But, like you said, that can be done with others; for example, you can grow SPS with ATI Blue +'s, but they are quite blue. I've seen some people use only these bulbs.

Also, supplemental lighting doesn't typically have enough power to grow SPS, because it's 'supplemental' lighting. Obviously, there are exceptions.

My final thoughts are this; as long as the light (whether MH, T5, LED's, etc.) will grow the corals well and deliver the colors for which I'm looking (overall look of the tank or corals), then I'm satisfied. In the end, it's the taste of the user that counts. Just my thoughts. :)
 
The spread also is a concern. I have only seen a couple systems in place at various LFS and most look like a couple of flashlights shining in the tank. A "beam" of light. I am sure these are cheap LED systems so my opinion may be unfair. I think this can be mitigated if you raise the lights. One of the posters in this thread had his lights quite a bit higher than most conventional lights are mounted, I am guessing this is why. This certainly gives you more room to work on the tank. My system is built into a bookcase, and I have 2 feet over the tank to do this, so it is not a problem for me. I have been eying the AI LED modules and I think I would probably need 3 mounted very high...

I have three AI units over my 48" 75g. I did not want to replace my canopy so I mounted them on a rail inside it. They are less than 6 inches off the water. They look great and I have been thrilled with the change so far. I am at 5 months. Even with the standard optics the light appears uniform to the eye in my tank. The spotlight effect I worried about isn't an issue in my setup.
 
I'm sure, but which look do you like better? I dropped by my LFS today and noted they swapped out a MH/T5 for a Vertex LED. I never liked the tank with the MH/T5 combo (wrong bulbs I'm sure) but thought wow that looks great under the Vertex. Then he told me the whites were running @ 50 %! So much for that excitement. Ways to go in the LED end of things IMHO.

I don't understand the point you are trying to make here. I am now running my whites at 65%. I am sure that at less than 50% I would still have enough PAR to grow any SPS. This is one of the selling point of LED's IMHO. You can pretty much dial in any color you are looking for by changing the ratio of blue, white, royal blue. I like a 14k look during the day switching to a 20k look at night. I love that I can slowly ramp power and change the color so easily. Being able to grow corals at 50% white power should be a good thing. What am I missing?
 
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