JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system

[NexDog]

Randy, I chickened out on building a canopy for now. To get up and running quickly I got that PFO canopy that has all the lights and actinics in it. It will be more than enough for a year while I get my sea legs. Next summer I plan on building a canopy with good reflectors and better HQI ballasts. If you ask James, he will send you some pics. He doesn't check his email very often so it's best to call him (but catching him is hard too).

Nice collection of toys by the way. I think I see a Finnex heater in there? I'm kind of thinking the overflows would have been better a little more in but I don't think it will matter too much because I have lots of options and lots of flow. If I whack a Hammerhead on one the loops I'll have a spare Dart and can always put that on the return if I feel not enough crap is getting to the skimmer. But the PanWorld is rated 1200GPH and with all the flow the detritus should be suspended long enough to get to the overflows even if they are in the corner. I kind of like having the big space in the middle for the back closed loops as that is where all the acros are going to be.

 

[NexDog]

God I love this tank. Just the picture of all the new stuff reminds me of christmas when I was a kid.
About battering your fish around, perhaps one or two of the CL could be run on timers that would turn off at night. Do you know if Steve W. turned off his bottom returns at night? It would seem to me a good idea to let te fish find their spots and sleep.
Two phospate reactors? Are you going to run some other media in the second? Careful with these when using Rowaphos or Phosbane: better to use a good deal less than the recommended dosage on a slow GPH--one full would already be too much.
Save me from reading trhough the thread for the 4th time. Did you already plan your power center & what is your primary computer control? With a system like this you have to have a killer electrical panel and there are some great ones here on RC.

You got it on the closed loops. I'm putting the bottom CL and either the back 4 or side 4 on a timer and turning off at night. I'm not sure if Steve does this but it is logical. It will probably be the side 4 that I leave on 24/7 as those streams have the biggest area to flow and teh biggest dispersal.

I have 4 reactors in total. Two for Phosban and 2 for carbon. I'll just put one in to start and add the other if needed but I have high phosphate levels so if the system can handle it, I do foresee using 2 reactors for phosphate removal.

I talked about the power center a few posts above.

I decided against one big control box for everything because I'm worried everything won't reach. So I'm putting in 4 boxes in total. One on the left of the sump containing 8 sockets for skimmer and 3 pumps plus a 4-Way, another above the sump in the middle for sump lights and pumps and powerheads feeding reactors. A few sockets above the tank to the right where I'll plug in the in the timer powerstrips for the ballastsand a few pumps that I want to turn off at night and the last on the far right a few more sockets for other stuff like the osmolator and anything else.

No computer controller for now. I'll get the Aquatronica when it has all the feature but I don't think it's really ready yet. I'd only use it for PH control and I'm only going to dose Kalk at first and also I'd use it for timers. So I just bought those Timer Powerbars for now.

I really don't want all my wiring in one box. Having a few boxes will make sure the wiring can be kept neat and that everything reaches. I think it's going to work out well.

 

[G_cuvier]

Nex: I did similar with my electrickery...

Since my tank is an "evolving thing" my electrics may or may not be finished... I suspect not.

I pulled 2 20A circuits to switches on the wall outside my fishroom and from there ran them to two junction boxes in the roof. The two junction boxes power two banks of switch sets. This way I have 2 master switches, one powering one "panel" and the other powering the other "panel". This way I can kill the entire power to the fish room or be selective yet I don't have to actually enter there to power it all down in case of an emergency.

I pulled wires to different locations in the fish room and made sure that not all the lights or pumps are powered by the same panel, (therefore 20A circuit), so that should a breaker blow the tank will still be lit and receive circulation.

Some of my outlets are there solely to power my timers that, in turn power banks of four outlets for lights and other systems I want to put on timers.

All my switches are the type with lights in them to show when power is applied to the circuit. They are a bit more expensive but it means that I can take a passing glance at the panel and see that everything is powered that should be.

It's a work in progress but it works nicely and makes routine tasks easier and quicker.

 

[NexDog]

Yah, I remember reading about your electricity setup. Unfortunately mine won't be so pretty. I love your setup though - that's perfect in my opinion.

 

[NexDog]

Tank is finished and the sump will be finished today. All shipped out on Tuesday - awesome. More pics courtesy of James:

Tank from the front:

From the back:

Notice the back four 1.5" holes for the back closed loop and the three 2" CL drains below.

James has built me an amazing sump. 150g (48x30x24) that can do absolutely everything!

Flow goes top left (overflow intake chamber), exits out the toothed bottom to the skimmer section. Iwaki pumps to the skimmer and I'll return the skimmer to the next section which is the fuge. Notice the black walls of the refuge section. This is due to the fact that I can only get Grape Caulerpa which is very unstable unless it's lit 24 hours a day. Black walls and a black shadow box that will go on top and house a light fixture will minimise light spill into the next section which is the propagation section.

I'm getting a PFO HQI Mini-Pendant with a 150w DE XM 10k for the prop section which I hope will grow frags quickly and keep some decent colour. Refuge to Prop section is toothed to control the algae. I'll feed the chiller from this section and it will have 5 1" holes drilled (2 in one side and 3 in the other). My idea is to pump the water into the chiller and return via a super-squirt from OM (good flow for the frags). Not sure how that will work out but I will work it out I hope.

The return section is pretty large as this is where the evaporation occurs. Will have the powerheads here feeding the phos and carbon reactors (which will sit on a shelf above). This is where I'll feed the Ca reactor from when I get around to that.

Put the final layer of concrete down in the fish room today and got it dead level. Going to build the stand next week (out of steel I think). Builders have all that worked out. Also, it's a full 5ft from the floor to the bottom of the tank so we are going to make a kind of swing-arm table that is attached to the wall behind the tank and swings down and clips into the stand so I can jump on that and work in the tank. Should be pretty cool.

 

[BrianPlankis]

Wow! That sump is awesome! I've read your whole thread and will be watching things develop. My next house will be built to house a large tank, currently i'm very happy with my 75. Keep the pics coming!

Brian

 

[Bax]

Very nice tank and sump ... bet'cha just can't wait to get your hands on that baby!

Good luck with shipping handling & customs, hope it works out better than the light did for ya.

 

[jumboshrimp18]

A picture of the bottom of the tank?
Really, no computer control--any reason?

 

[NexDog]

Didn't get a pic of the bottom but I can tell you it has a 1.5" hole 5" from the back and 20" in from side (one on each side) for the bottom PVC racks to be plumbed into.

I don't feel there is any software out there that does all that needs to be done and does so reliably. My whole life revolves around computers and servers so I know what it's like to deal with software that does half a job. I was thinking about the AquaController from Neptune but that X-10 technology - seriously, it's so unstable. The Aquatronica looks promising but kind of feels like a "beta" release. No point in having computer control if your computer can't alert you to problems. There is no way in hell I'll turn over any system to a computer that won't alert me if a problem arises.

 

[Petie]

Just tagging along, do you have any ideas for stocking your new toy yet?

 

[NexDog]

Well, I'd like:

(3 or 4 tangs out of these):
Clown Tang
Powder Blue Tang
Naso Tang
Hippo Tang (already got one)
Yellow Tang (already got one)

(2 Angels - risky I know but just have to have them)
Koran or Imperator Angel
Regal Angel

2 Clarkii Clowns (already have these)
10 blue/green Chromis
2 Mandarins
Copperband Butterfly (maybe)
Coral Beauty (already got)
Pair of Banggai Cardinals
6-Line Wrasse (maybe)
Some Cleaner Wrasses

Might not be able to do all but those are my favourite fish.

I also have a Yellow Watchman and Diamond Six Spot goby but but not sure if I'm going to keep the 6 spot as I don't wan't sand scattered everywhere.

 

[NexDog]

James has built me an amazing sump. 150g (48x30x24) that can do absolutely everything!

Flow goes top left (overflow intake chamber), exits out the toothed bottom to the skimmer section. Iwaki pumps to the skimmer and I'll return the skimmer to the next section which is the fuge. Notice the black walls of the refuge section. This is due to the fact that I can only get Grape Caulerpa which is very unstable unless it's lit 24 hours a day. Black walls and a black shadow box that will go on top and house a light fixture will minimise light spill into the next section which is the propagation section.

I'm getting a PFO HQI Mini-Pendant with a 150w DE XM 10k for the prop section which I hope will grow frags quickly and keep some decent colour. Refuge to Prop section is toothed to control the algae. I'll feed the chiller from this section and it will have 5 1" holes drilled (2 in one side and 3 in the other). My idea is to pump the water into the chiller and return via a super-squirt from OM (good flow for the frags). Not sure how that will work out but I will work it out I hope.

The return section is pretty large as this is where the evaporation occurs. Will have the powerheads here feeding the phos and carbon reactors (which will sit on a shelf above). This is where I'll feed the Ca reactor from when I get around to that.

Have some pics of the completed sump and it is a monster. James has really done me proud on this one.

Here's a shot from the front with the shadow box on top. I have two light fixtures that will be inserted and sit on the flange of that section and the water level is 4" below that. I'm only using four 17" flourescents to light the fuge so the 4" space will be fine. Box is open at the top for ventilation. Right front corner is the Prop section and you can see the 5 holes drilled for the SuperSquirt...

Next shot is looking from the back. You can see the return 1" hole there....

Last shot is showing the fuge area and how the shadow box sits on the flange...

There is no doubt about it, James at Envision has some skills.

Now just need to get it all to me in one piece!

 

[parks]

Hello all,
I have been watching this thread and your tank looks great. Is it being made in Japan? How close are you to tokyo? I have been in Japan for about 2 years and I was curious where you get your fish and corals. It can be an expensive hobby here...as you know. Looks great so far...

 

[Bebo77]

So thats what james is building now... He starts on my 300 gal second week of November... cant wait

He really does awesome work

nice set up Nexdog

 

[NeilsReef]

Hello all,
I have been watching this thread and your tank looks great. Is it being made in Japan? How close are you to tokyo? I have been in Japan for about 2 years and I was curious where you get your fish and corals. It can be an expensive hobby here...as you know. Looks great so far...

"Envision Acrylics, Inc. is located in beautiful Portland Oregon."

I hope this helps you with one of your questions.

 

[NexDog]

Hi parks. As Neil pointed out the tanks are being built by Envision Acrylics which is located in Oregon. Check out:

http://envisionacrylics.com

James does outstanding work. He built the 800g OregonReef and check out Hop's thread for another Envision tank. Hop went a bit longer than me I think and ended up with a 375g display compared to my 340g.

I'm in Kyushu - Miyazaki Prefecture to be exact which is the farthest south you can go on mainland Japan. I just couldn't find anyone to build a large acrylic tank and even if I did the language barrier would have been tough even though I can get by pretty well over here. Also I was quoted about $5,000 on a glass 240g without any holes drilled and no external overflows and no shipping included. I think the total cost with shipping from the US would only be slightly more expensive than getting it here and certainly alot les hassle.

In Tokyo check out:

http://natyu.ne.jp/
http://www.marine-blue.co.jp/frame.html
http://www.splash-sea.co.jp/zukan/index.html

Alot of my stuff will be coming from those places.

 

[NexDog]

So thats what james is building now... He starts on my 300 gal second week of November... cant wait

He really does awesome work

nice set up Nexdog

Thanks Bebo. If you do a build thread be sure to let me know know the URL.

 

[Bebo77]

I will.. i am doing prep work around the house now should start a threat first of next month...

I am jealous that you have 40 more gallons than me though im only going 98L x 30W x 26T 300 true gallons.

 

[NexDog]

Yea, but you got the length. 8ft is sweeet. 6ft was the largest I could really go so I made up in the 3ft width and 30" tall.

 

[NexDog]

I have a few spare pumps now. I was planning on using a PanWorld for the return but I looked at it and it has somewhere near 3000RPMs which could mean it's noisy. The Darts are like 1700rpm by comparison. My overflows will only handle 2000gph though. But the sump > return pump bulkhead is 1" and I know that 3200gph won't get through a 1" bulkhead but does anyone know the exact flow rate. I'm hoping to use that as the method to dial back the Dart. Any thoughts?