JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Got my LED cube ... it's set up now with sand, water, and a couple bits of LR... the LFS's rock was more aiptasia rock than anything else so I'm going to have to do some hunting or break down and order online (I like to pick through piles of rock though).

I've got to say, the LED hood is nice. My last full blown reef tank (years ago) had a MH light that was only a bit brighter and put out a ton of heat compared to this thing. Technology, ain't she wunnaful? Of course, the proof is in the results and I'm months away from any...but the signs are there.

The only real surprise was the media basket. I'd seen pictures but it never really registered. I'm going to have to build something. Or clear the whole thing out, put a couple screens to keep chaeto out of the pumps, and use the whole area as a fuge.
 
Re: JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Or should I make the jump into LED ?[/QUOTE]

I would definitely go with the led. Ive had mine for a couple weeks now and can't believe that it's taken this long to make the switch. The tank is more stable than any other I've ever had. Temp stays constant, instead of a gallon or two a day of evaporation, its more of a gallon every week and a half or so. Also its the most quiet setup I've had. Good luck, what ever you decide I'm sure your tank will be happier for it:)
 
you can run two maxijet 1200 at the same time for returns with a sapphire skimmer in the rear and im sure a tunze as well.

i have 2 maxijet 1200 for return with a sapphire skimmer, i did this for a while and thoguht my tank might over flow but never did, it raised my main display water level flush with the lip that the hood legs rest on and of coarse i had to add more water to to the rear to support the rear lvl.

the problem i had with this is that even though i could do run it this way, because the sapphire skimmer takes up so much room in the rear center chamber its almost touching where the water enters the rear, thus was restricting some of the water flow coming back there. which is why it would run the level higher in the display.

after a while i noticed i was gettign a film on the water surface, due to the water lvl being so high in the display it was unable to surface skim correctly. so i turned the wavemaker on and now my water lvl in the display is lower where it should be and the surface is crystal clear, the water also flows into the back like it should even with the sapphire skimmer back there.

but even when i had both running and had more water in there it never overflowed even if i turned off both pumps so dont worry about that
 
Here is my 9002 in the middle chamber of my 28 CF quad. I cut the back rim a little bit. I also used a dremel to take the magnet off the skimmer. I did not have to cut all the way through it, the friction heated the magnet up enough to soften the glue holding it on. Then it just pulls off flush.

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Quickcord
 
I was just thinking with the LED hype, has anyone tried to mod their HQI with some blue LEDs? I think this would be a better option than placing the PCs in the hood. Feel free to discuss.
 
Re: JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Has anyone used the nano glo fuge light, or know of a good substitute. I definitely want to change out the media basket and go for a little more natural nutrient export.
 
Nanocustoms fan upgrade

Nanocustoms fan upgrade

Thought I would post some pics of my fan upgrade over the weekend. I noticed my fans weren't cutting the mustard when I noticed the heatsink clicking the lights off after a little over 7hours. At first, I thought it might have been my controller doing the turnoff (I have quite a few 'catch' lines in there to prevent the heat from going overboard). However, the lights would *always* come back after about 3 minutes.

I bought the kit from http://www.nanotuners.com and followed the directional YouTube video listed on their site. The video was *pretty* good, but I did have to figure out a couple little details by myself. I also replaced ALL of the screws that hold the splash guard in place. Most of them were rusted badly, but some had actually broken off during previous bulb replacements and I had a suspicion that maybe (just maybe) some moisture was sneaking under the guard and effecting the bulb. Entire project took a little over an hour (but I took my sweet time and watched the Olympics while I worked :D)

Full canopy shot with old fans:
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splash guard and glass, notice all the rusted out screws holding splash guard in place
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Old fans = lots of dust
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New fans in place
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Drilled a small hole through the sidewall to run the DC connector through
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Well here's an update. I went ahead and ordered the Warner Marine H1 and a Sybon refractometer. I really wanted the SRO LX1000 skimmer but I just don't think it would fit on the back of my tank. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will hook up the chiller, skimmer and get my tank cycling again.
 
mr9iron: I have a problem with my new TUnze Osmolator. Can you assist please...I bought the new 2010 version of this top up with the new magnet attachmens. Anyway, the problem is tha because the unit runs for a minimum of 10 seconds to prevent too frequent topping up etc, it cause the water to reach the safety sensor and hence alarms. I then situated the two sensors on different magnets so that the operating sensor is located far below the safety sensor. Even then sometimes the water continous to pump and the operating sensor gets completely submerged.

Also, if i turn the power off and on, the controller decides to top off for 10 seconds each time regardless of the fact that the operating sensor should tell the controller the water level is ok!

What the heck is going on? :mixed: Can you help and let me know how you have yours setup please. Its doing my head in.

Maybe I got a fault unit?
 
mr9iron: I have a problem with my new TUnze Osmolator. Can you assist please...I bought the new 2010 version of this top up with the new magnet attachmens. Anyway, the problem is tha because the unit runs for a minimum of 10 seconds to prevent too frequent topping up etc, it cause the water to reach the safety sensor and hence alarms. I then situated the two sensors on different magnets so that the operating sensor is located far below the safety sensor. Even then sometimes the water continous to pump and the operating sensor gets completely submerged.

Also, if i turn the power off and on, the controller decides to top off for 10 seconds each time regardless of the fact that the operating sensor should tell the controller the water level is ok!

What the heck is going on? :mixed: Can you help and let me know how you have yours setup please. Its doing my head in.

Maybe I got a fault unit?

My osmolator would do the same thing. However, it would never fill up past the float switch. I think we should probably post this question in the TUNZE forum for an answer.
 
Sahin, here is the answer I received from Roger at Tunze:
If this is on a very small tank, like less than 30 gallons with no sump, then he probably needs to just add a small valve to the hose, drip irrigation valves are ideal, but a small plastic air valve will also work. This way he can reduce the flow so the 10 second run will not be of any consequence. He should also check though the sensor isn't attracting air bubbles. If it is working properly and it is just the 10 second delay, for the duration of the delay the yellow and green LED's on the controller will be lit at the same time.
 
OK, let me understand this: Essentially the flow needs to be reduced? Like using a flow restrictor of some sort? I'm sorry I dont understand. I will head to the Tunze forum. Thanks for your help. Its good to know that you faced the problem too and had it sorted.
 
OK, let me understand this: Essentially the flow needs to be reduced? Like using a flow restrictor of some sort? I'm sorry I dont understand. I will head to the Tunze forum. Thanks for your help. Its good to know that you faced the problem too and had it sorted.

Yes, that is my understanding of Roger's explanation. Come to think of it, I think my problem was due to air bubbles on the optical sensor. I pulled the sensor and cleaned it off and it worked fine after that.
 
I have the JBJ CF Quad 28gal and I am having problems with my temp going up and down anyone have any suggestions short of getting a chiller?

Thanks
Ron
 
Re: JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Nope, I would get a chiller and call it done. I speak from experience as I lost my tank inhabitants due to heat issues. It was a very costly mistake that I will not make again.



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Has anyone here added a refugium to their tank? I want to add a 5gal or so (whatever will fit in my stand) to my tank. If you have done this could you give me some tips or some pics???

Thanks
Ron:fish1:

P.S. I have the JBJ CF Quad 28gal tank.
 
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This is a medium CPR aquafuge. I don't have a more current photo, but I also have my probes in it as well as 3" of sand and macro.

In my cabinet I have my Apex, two EB8s, PM2 and IO breakout for my float switches. In the very bottom I keep my top off of Kalk...
 

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This is a medium CPR aquafuge. I don't have a more current photo, but I also have my probes in it as well as 3" of sand and macro.

In my cabinet I have my Apex, two EB8s, PM2 and IO breakout for my float switches. In the very bottom I keep my top off of Kalk...
Nice, been waiting for someone to do pic of the medium CPR. Did you have to make any mods? What are you running in the center chamber if your're skimmer is in the fuge? Oh yeah, is that the Tunze skimmer or the the CPR skimmer in the fuge?
 
I just received my Warner Marine H1 and Sybon refractometer. I can say that the skimmer is built very solid and seems like a quality product. I plan on trying to get the tank cycling this weekend so hopefully I will have some pictures to post. Here are a couple of the new gear.


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I will try and post a picture of the chiller later. Does anyone know if the JBJ chiller kit is universal. I'm hoping to order it for my Current 1/10 hp chiller and get it plumbed in soon as well. I still need to pickup at Vortech MP10 sometime, but I will have to hold off a bit for fear the wife may kill me. LOL
 
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