Here's a first hack at a sump. I don't need a bulkhead because the pump will always be flooded once primed. It was a good thing I went that way as that sump is tooooooOOO small. Stopping the system would overflow it by about 3 gallons which is cutting things way to close. I will be building a large ATS so I didn't want the sump any larger than it needs to be.
BTW This is what's down inside the discharge tower.
With much anticipation and excitement I started filling it. I decided to fill the sump while the return pump lifted it up to the tank. I was amazed that we had to run a 3/4" garden hose with 100psi at half open to even keep up with the pump.
A buddy had to manage the hose because at that flow it would do the whip-around thing.
Almost full.
The tank is over full! You can see the ceramic wall top is below the water level. This would be a problem as it would be unsightly and would have stuff growing on the rear wall I couldn't clean off. It also is just too deep.
Another shot of the too-deep. You can't see it but the water is hitting the bottom of the top even!!
Why so deep?
You can see how the plates are partially blocking the weirs. When running I could see the water level behind the plates being about 1/4" lower. That's bad because it means I'm not actually 'skimming' but rather water is having to come from everywhere including
up from behind the plates from below the surface. Any water that goes through the weir that isn't surface water - is water not skimmed.
To fix the too-full problem I had to grind down the ceramic. This took a while. Then the ^(*%$%! tungsten carbide bit flew out of the Dremel and landed down in the water in some crevice of the back wall!! ARGH! It took about 20 minutes to find it then 10 minutes to try to grab it with no success. I finally used one of the super magnets given to me earlier to retrieve it. I just stuck it to a coat hanger and then got it near the cutter and zip! I got it back with much rejoicing. No telling if that would poison a tank.
Just lowering the ceramic wasn't enough. The water was still about 1/4" over the plates. I had to Dremel down the tooth gaps. I finally got the water level down level with the rear ceramic wall.
Once the weir teeth were lowered and the plates were trimmed down I was satisfied with the water height. With just open stand pipes in the overflow I was able to trim the flooded channel pipe to the point where not much water was going down the open-channel pipe. Very little noise. Once I properly cap them it should be silent.
I'm amazed by how little water gets thru these weirs. Because it has a hard time squeezing thru with its high surface tension, the water level is about 3/4" higher than the bottom of the teeth.