Join me for a strange one...
- Thread starter kcress
- Start date
kcress
New member
Silicone grease.. Now that I can live with.
Hi virginiadiver69. Not a simple answer.
While standing on the living room floor, 78" to the top of the raised tank.
But... The tank and stand are sitting in a hole that's 9 inches deep. The hole is were the fireplace footing originally came up to.
So another answer would be 87".
Hi virginiadiver69. Not a simple answer.
While standing on the living room floor, 78" to the top of the raised tank.
But... The tank and stand are sitting in a hole that's 9 inches deep. The hole is were the fireplace footing originally came up to.
So another answer would be 87".
virginiadiver69
New member
Okay...well, I was gonna be smart a$$ and ask "why not just use a ladder for maintenance" instead of all the work going into this very impressive stand. My tank tops out at 70" and that seems to be about the limit for work on a ladder.
I agree with your decision to set it up higher. I did the same thing...the center of the tank is at my eye level.
I can't wait to see the finished product.
I agree with your decision to set it up higher. I did the same thing...the center of the tank is at my eye level.
I can't wait to see the finished product.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Hire gnomes! With antigravity boots.
kcress
New member
You guys have to keep on track!
A g a i n.. with the tank up at 78"...
THERE IS ONLY 2.5 INCHES OF SPACE BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE TANK AND THE WOODEN BEAM.
Are you proposing that I throw the gnomes under a steam roller??!!
I will not be a party to that!
:lol:
You will see soon what I mean.
A g a i n.. with the tank up at 78"...
THERE IS ONLY 2.5 INCHES OF SPACE BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE TANK AND THE WOODEN BEAM.
Are you proposing that I throw the gnomes under a steam roller??!!
I will not be a party to that!
:lol:
You will see soon what I mean.
kcress
New member
Let me show you more.
Recall that changing to a stock tank resulted in the space and the stand being too narrow.
I had to go back and cut out the sheet rock on both walls.
What to replace it with?
I was going to go with 3/8" sheet rock but that required a whole new taping and filling hassle.
So at the lumber yard I looked around.
Eureka!
You can get beautiful textured fiberglass sheeting. It's typically used in soaking wet locations, like showers, because it's totally impervious to water. It's massively strong. VERY thin and can be cut easily.
And, it's only 1/16" thick. Booyah!
Here it is.
I had the lumber yard saw it for me. Then I counter-sunk and screwed it to the framing with 100 stainless steel machine screws. I then silicone'd all cracks and corners with liberal amounts of the silicone adhesive, (I have a case of), for building the aborted scratch tank.
Notice, my lovely sheet rock corners ,etc. suffered in the wall cut-out. Since I will be finish framing the entire opening eventually I actually won't be needing to patch the boo boos.
Next up: The stand goes in!
Recall that changing to a stock tank resulted in the space and the stand being too narrow.
I had to go back and cut out the sheet rock on both walls.
What to replace it with?
I was going to go with 3/8" sheet rock but that required a whole new taping and filling hassle.
So at the lumber yard I looked around.
Eureka!
You can get beautiful textured fiberglass sheeting. It's typically used in soaking wet locations, like showers, because it's totally impervious to water. It's massively strong. VERY thin and can be cut easily.
And, it's only 1/16" thick. Booyah!
Here it is.
I had the lumber yard saw it for me. Then I counter-sunk and screwed it to the framing with 100 stainless steel machine screws. I then silicone'd all cracks and corners with liberal amounts of the silicone adhesive, (I have a case of), for building the aborted scratch tank.
Notice, my lovely sheet rock corners ,etc. suffered in the wall cut-out. Since I will be finish framing the entire opening eventually I actually won't be needing to patch the boo boos.
Next up: The stand goes in!
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Bonus! Solved the thickness issue and is probably more water resistant than green rock anyways.
RocketSurgeon
New member
Following along. Sounds exciting!
kcress
New member
In she goes!
Getting it level.
Here is it is pretty much down. Note the stand's position with respect to the cardboard plugging the vent hole on the left.
Here it is pretty much in the up position. See the difference against the cardboard.
Note the legs missing paint. NEVER paint sliding members. :hmm3: Luckily the legs are heavily galvanized so this doesn't present a rust issue.
Getting it level.
Here is it is pretty much down. Note the stand's position with respect to the cardboard plugging the vent hole on the left.
Here it is pretty much in the up position. See the difference against the cardboard.
Note the legs missing paint. NEVER paint sliding members. :hmm3: Luckily the legs are heavily galvanized so this doesn't present a rust issue.
khaosinc
The cyborg reefer
You can get beautiful textured fiberglass sheeting. It's typically used in soaking wet locations, like showers, because it's totally impervious to water. It's massively strong. VERY thin and can be cut easily.
And, it's only 1/16" thick. Booyah!
Here it is.
Next up: The stand goes in!
Man I wish I had thought of that when I was building my fish room.... That is a cool idea.
For the plumbing issue... why not just have it move with the tank? Would be easy enough to support.
Are you using a VFD for the water pump as well? (not sure from your OP).
I have to ask why you are using a VFD for the jack even, doesn't sound like you are controlling the speed at all are you?
I assume PLC with a HMI for controlling everything?
3 phase is less then useful for a residence. Around here they will not give 3 phase to residential zoning. And never heard of a residential property getting 3 phase.
I wish I could get 3 phase 600V to my place though, lol.
Are you using a VFD for the water pump as well? (not sure from your OP).
I have to ask why you are using a VFD for the jack even, doesn't sound like you are controlling the speed at all are you?
I assume PLC with a HMI for controlling everything?
3 phase is less then useful for a residence. Around here they will not give 3 phase to residential zoning. And never heard of a residential property getting 3 phase.
I wish I could get 3 phase 600V to my place though, lol.
kcress
New member
Thanks khaosinc. It's not real cheap like sheet rock though. I think about $40 a sheet, I can't remember exactly. I do remember being bummed that I had to buy two sheets and throw slightly less that 1/2 of each sheet away. Typical.. :spin2:
Nothing is as easy as it seems..
I can't support the sump too! So hoses must flex somewhere.
Ummm "Water pump" is not very specific... Yes I am using a VFD for the 1/2hp 3ph closed loop. No I am not using a VFD for the 1/20hp sump return.
I am using one for the stand because I get automatic ramping - no shock starts/stops. I can control the speed. I can use a three phase motor that is smaller for the same hp. I get to use small low voltage switches to control it. I can have overload protection automatically.
At this point I am only thinking of a microPLC w/o an HMI to control everything.
The only three phase is between the VFDs and the motors. I am running the VFDs with 120Vac 1ph, as that's what they're designed for.
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
can you secure, lets just say for example, a 2" section of pvc pipe to the sump which would be tall enough to reach almost all the way up to the overflow... then have
1 1/2" pipe from the overflow which would slide down inside the 2" pipe? sort of how they connect pipe when building a log home to allow for lots of settling. it might take a little figuring to make sure the smaller pipe remianed inside the larger during all travel of the stand. the lower end of the sump pipe could be offset with a couple of 45's to drain inside the sump. no expensive flex pipe and totally accomodating for your setup.
1 1/2" pipe from the overflow which would slide down inside the 2" pipe? sort of how they connect pipe when building a log home to allow for lots of settling. it might take a little figuring to make sure the smaller pipe remianed inside the larger during all travel of the stand. the lower end of the sump pipe could be offset with a couple of 45's to drain inside the sump. no expensive flex pipe and totally accomodating for your setup.
kcress
New member
As I mentioned I got a used tank.
I found one in Craigslist and drove two hours to get there only to find the guy had his dimensions off by a 1/2 a foot. I walked up his driveway took one look at his tank and said, "That's not the one so where's the one advertised?"
"Yes that's the one!"
"Yeah, but I asked you to make double sure that the tank was only two feet deep as I have a narrow space that is clearly 30 inches."
"Sorry."
He thought it was funny. What a jerk.
2Hrs back... :uzi:
Next up was the tank I actually got in Oakland, CA.
"No scratches right?"
"Nope."
"How many penetrations are there in the tank?"
"Only one."
Just one?"
"Yes, only one."
"Really, only one hole?"
"Yes! One hole."
Price $650.
1-1/2hrs there.
"There are scratches all over this!"
"Yeah but you can't see them when the water is in."
"There are FIVE penetrations you said One!" :furious:
"I thought you just meant for the return.."
I left with the tank and $150 of my original dollars.
What's with these people?? :worried:
After a pause on a bench in the driveway to alter and plug various of the, "only one hole(s)", I got four strong mates to help bring in the tank.
I'm guessing it was about 350lbs. We passed it in a living room window. Luckily they're 3.5ft wide. So we covered the sill with blankets and set one end on the sill. Then two of us ran in the house and we moved it in 4/5ths of the way then the other two guys came in and we picked it up and set it in place.
Of course we could only set it about 50% into its space. Then we had to jink it the rest of the way.
Note the stand is down.
I found one in Craigslist and drove two hours to get there only to find the guy had his dimensions off by a 1/2 a foot. I walked up his driveway took one look at his tank and said, "That's not the one so where's the one advertised?"
"Yes that's the one!"
"Yeah, but I asked you to make double sure that the tank was only two feet deep as I have a narrow space that is clearly 30 inches."
"Sorry."
He thought it was funny. What a jerk.
2Hrs back... :uzi:
Next up was the tank I actually got in Oakland, CA.
"No scratches right?"
"Nope."
"How many penetrations are there in the tank?"
"Only one."
Just one?"
"Yes, only one."
"Really, only one hole?"
"Yes! One hole."
Price $650.
1-1/2hrs there.
"There are scratches all over this!"
"Yeah but you can't see them when the water is in."
"There are FIVE penetrations you said One!" :furious:
"I thought you just meant for the return.."
I left with the tank and $150 of my original dollars.
What's with these people?? :worried:
After a pause on a bench in the driveway to alter and plug various of the, "only one hole(s)", I got four strong mates to help bring in the tank.
I'm guessing it was about 350lbs. We passed it in a living room window. Luckily they're 3.5ft wide. So we covered the sill with blankets and set one end on the sill. Then two of us ran in the house and we moved it in 4/5ths of the way then the other two guys came in and we picked it up and set it in place.
Of course we could only set it about 50% into its space. Then we had to jink it the rest of the way.
Note the stand is down.
reeftanknewbie
New member
As I mentioned I got a used tank.
I found one in Craigslist and drove two hours to get there only to find the guy had his dimensions off by a 1/2 a foot. I walked up his driveway took one look at his tank and said, "That's not the one so where's the one advertised?"
"Yes that's the one!"
"Yeah, but I asked you to make double sure that the tank was only two feet deep as I have a narrow space that is clearly 30 inches."
"Sorry."
He thought it was funny. What a jerk.
2Hrs back... :uzi:
Next up was the tank I actually got in Oakland, CA.
"No scratches right?"
"Nope."
"How many penetrations are there in the tank?"
"Only one."
Just one?"
"Yes, only one."
"Really, only one hole?"
"Yes! One hole."
Price $650.
1-1/2hrs there.
"There are scratches all over this!"
"Yeah but you can't see them when the water is in."
"There are FIVE penetrations you said One!" :furious:
"I thought you just meant for the return.."
I left with the tank and $150 of my original dollars.
What's with these people?? :worried:
After a pause on a bench in the driveway to alter and plug various of the, "only one hole(s)", I got four strong mates to help bring in the tank.
I'm guessing it was about 350lbs. We passed it in a living room window. Luckily they're 3.5ft wide. So we covered the sill with blankets and set one end on the sill. Then two of us ran in the house and we moved it in 4/5ths of the way then the other two guys came in and we picked it up and set it in place.
Of course we could only set it about 50% into its space. Then we had to jink it the rest of the way.
Note the stand is down.
yeah aren't people fun to deal with at times. Had some similar experiences to yours when trying to buy used equipment. Now if they don't send a pic and description I don't bother with it......drove 3 hrs once to find out the tank I was looking at not only leaked but was smaller then I was told it was. Anyways this is really coming along, can't wait to see how to solve the plumbing. I would guess everything would have to be flex tubing or spa tubing due to the movement. Keep this up its really going to be sweet when your done.
If you do go with flex line, rather than a fixed return and sliding drain pipe, then be sure that it is something designed to flex over a long period. I don't see you getting many cycles on it, but better safe than sorry as some 'flexible' pipe is really only meant to be bent a few times to get it in place, and then stay there. Flexing it more than that leads to premature failure.
Personally I would go with the fixed pipe and sliding drain, at least to start with. If it proved too loud then I would attempt the flexible option.
Personally I would go with the fixed pipe and sliding drain, at least to start with. If it proved too loud then I would attempt the flexible option.
Another question, why a VFD for the closed loop, just to control head pressure?
single phase motors don't really have the shock starts and stops like a 3 phase motor though. A simple electronic motor starter has built in O/L too.
Do you have a PLC in mind already?
Have a look at the Idec SmartRelay. With the starter kit (cable and software) its about 200 bucks, and the expantion I/O unit is like 50. And its very simple to program, and you even get a little lcd screen for simple controls.
This is what I am using for my tank, use it in the field a lot for small controls too.
