Journal of a 60g shallow reef and aquaman cave

Hello folks, how's it going? My name's Phil and I'm proud to proclaim that I'm a planted tank enthusiast with a strong interest in corals. I'm an aquatic plant biologist and biogeochemist by training. Over the years I've had passing affairs with nano reefs, but haven't really lived in one place long enough to establish a sizable long-term and large (for me) reef setup. Being a researcher and consultant isn't the most stable career in a bad economy. :( Times have changed and I now find myself in a position, both job and aquarium wise, which I never thought I'd be in. I'm now working in the aquatics industry as a scientist, and as part of my job I've been told to set up a reef tank. Terrible, isn't it? :lol2: This baby's going to be a Stony Only Mostly SPS tank. All softies, gorgs, and colonial polyps are going in the sump.

What follows is both a journal of my reef build and the progression of the aquarium room, aka Aquaman Cave, that it will be living in. These tanks are both personal aquarium as well as test tanks so I can try out different combinations of old and developing products to see how they perform. I know this is REEF Central, not Aquatic Plant Central, but my friends in the plant community wanted to see the reef progress too so I figured I'd share it all with you here too; with emphasis on the reef, of course.

Credit for this journal goes to cableguy over at The Planted Tank. He asked for it in my 300g planted display build thread, so here it is. Credit for the name goes to Michael over at Aquatic Plant Central for cleverly calling the room an (aqua)man cave. The room's a semi-finished but well wired basement on a slab. The poor floor is really old and uneven, but it's a slab and that's what counts the most.

Tank specs-
*48x24x12 60g former frag tank with a 2" hole dead center and 2x 1" holes 3" from either side wall. The two 1" are going to get plugged and the center hole will become the drain.
*150g stock tank sump/refugium/frag tank.
*48" 8x bulb AquaticLife T5HO or 2x 250w HQI with the T5 over the sump. I'm leaning toward the T5 over the DT for color options.
*2x VorTech MP40w (big, I know, but they were the best option available)
*PM Bullet 1 skimmer
*Algae Turf Scrubber
*Dosing will be 100% Brightwell Aquatics goods from the very start unless I need something we don't make.
*Random other hardware/reactors to be added at some point. I've got to do more rummaging around storage to see what other goodies we have that I can use.

My reef keeping philosopy-
1. High circulation but low turn over. Biology before technology. My intent is to have 4-5x turnover per hour to maximize dwell time in the sump for all the nifty biogeochemical things that go on there to have a lot of time to happen.

2. I feel an ATS and skimmer provide the widest range of organics and nutrient removal when combined. I prefer to skim dry and let macro algae handle the N and P.

3. 300 gal tanks are just too big for me. They cost too much to fill with rock, coral, and fish. So even though I have some available I'm going with the 60g for ease on my wallet. Plus, I prefer small fish and the dimensions are awesome!

4. Aquascaping is very important to me and I'm willing to make certain sacrifices or take certain risks to build a beautiful tank.

5. I prefer to keep larger numbers of smaller fish than smaller numbers of larger fish. The opposite is true of corals. I prefer a few large colonies to a tank full of frags. Those just look like junk yards to me. Any collectoritis I may get will be enabled by a frag/growout section in the sump.

6. This is still a hobby to me even though it's also my job, moreso than planted tanks. I always want to understand the science behind reef keeping as best as I can to give the best care to my animals. I could really care less what the species or trade/hobby name of a coral is. I get my technical geek on with plants and want something to enjoy looking at without having to know if it's a Purple Zinger Super Duke Nuke 'Em LE whatevertheheckitis. Keeping the parameters stable and putting the animals in locations in the tank where they'll do best then letting things be is the way for me.


The two 300s will be planted displays and the 220 will be my plant collecting/grow out tank.

I guess that's enough for now. On with the pictures!

Here's what the room looked like in the very beginning back in July. The two tanks were smack in the middle of the room on some old, but sturdy, handmade stands. This view is facing from the utility portion of the basement.



Look at all that usable space!



9:00 on the morning on Friday 8.23 after the crew came and moved the new stands, small tank and stand, and other big tank and stand (in a different pic). The tank on the left will be a reef and has had its stand switched to fit it better. The rest of the tanks will eventually be planted. The metal stands are 6" shorter than the wood ones. In addition, there's not support joist taking up space so there's quite a bit more room to get into the tanks.



The 220 on the wall opposite the utility room.



Evening of 8.23-

Old stand #1- Freshwater workbench and top-off barrel. The barrel's eventually going to be recessed into the stand and plumbing will be run along the ceiling to allow easy topping off with just the turning of a valve.



Old stand #2- Saltwater workbench and quarantine tank stand. Another 50 gallon barrel will be recessed into this one for salt mixing.



Another view of SW workbench-

 
Last edited:
8.24-

Water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink. Moving the stands freed up the center of the room for 150 gal stock tanks. The two in the center will be combination FW quarantine and water aging tanks. Because I'm on a well I can't do massive (300+ gallon) water changes without burning out the pump and dumping a lot of cold water into the tanks. The plan is to use these for water changes then refill gradually over the week. The stock tank on the left will be the sump and refugium for the 60 reef. The mowing folks came on Friday so they're all covered in grass clippings. I washed off as much as I could then figured it would just be best to let it dry and wipe off later.



8.25-

6'x4' frame for the SW stock tank to go on. I've got to wait for a friend to help move it around so I can put a sheet of plywood on top. Trying to move a 2x4 frame with a 6'x8' sheet of plywood onto the workbench to trim the excess is a little ungainly to say the least. Two sets of hands will make it much easier.



Tank on frame. The black tote resting on the tank is going to be an algae turf scrubber. A separate raised shelf will be made to support both the ATS and skimmer. Both will be fed by a pump and will drain into the sump. The area under the shelf will be a cryptic refugium full of rock. The plan is to have a lit portion as well to house filter feeders like Gorgonians that will get too big for the shallow SPS/LPS reef.



Cleaned and scaped 60g. The picture doesn't show the rockwork off to its best, but it gives the general idea. The big rock is actually 14 inches away from the front glass.



I'll update as time permits progress. I'm going to be out of town this coming weekend (Sept 7th) so won't be getting to other big things until the 14th. The stand's going to get a good sanding and coats of Rustoleum and the tank's going to get a nice bed of styro over a sheet of plywood. Routing and such will be done next week.

Thanks for watching,
Phil
 
Thanks guys. I'm only 3.5 hours from NYC here in the heart of Nowhere, PA. Once the room's wet and running you're more than welcome to pay it a visit. There aren't many hobbyists out my way.

premilove,

The 300s are 72x36x24. Just barely big enough for me to bathe or sleep in if I so chose and curled up a little.
 
Glad you started a build thread on RC! Looking forward to reef tank progress Phil!
 
diciple,

Yeah, they sure will. I talked with the EcoTech folks at MACNA and got mixed opinions. One guy said 4x MP10s would be best and another guy said the 2x 40s would be fine as long as I ramped them down. I think I'm going to go with the 2nd option as I've already got the bigger ones. The plan is to have them on 7 hour on/off cycles; one on for 6 by itself, both on for an hour, then the first one off, and repeat. I want to ensure that all sides of the corals get strong flow in equal measure. I really want to avoid the "blown in the wind" look that some tanks with only one flow maker get.

Scolley,

Thank you my friend! I've learned a great deal from reading your build threads; reef and planted. Your attention to detail in planning both the hardware and livestock in your setups is inspirational.


Everyone,

I've got a question about flow and placement of my return. The original plan was to have a single outlet pointing along the back wall to create a gyre, but with the rockwork being what it looks like it'll be from the photographed prototype I'm concerned about an eventual dead or low-flow spot in the middle. Although flow should be fine at first, when the colonies get big I can see them blocking circulation between the rock piles. I've never used VorTech's before and don't know their capabilities. Do you think having them facing longitudinally will still create flow between the rock groups?

Any suggestions? I very much want to avoid blowing sand away from the front pane and creating a bare spot.
 
Thanks guys. I'm only 3.5 hours from NYC here in the heart of Nowhere, PA. Once the room's wet and running you're more than welcome to pay it a visit. There aren't many hobbyists out my way.

premilove,

The 300s are 72x36x24. Just barely big enough for me to bathe or sleep in if I so chose and curled up a little.

lol that's def one way to look at it. i'm setting up a DB 80 gal right now. the dimensions of the tanks are great.
 
Phil - on a smaller scale, my aquascape is similar to yours. With Vortech MP10's on either side of a 24" wide 33g. So with a few years under my belt with that, and having tested MP40s in my 6' wide 180g, I'd posit the following...

  1. The MP 40's will be fine. If you go hard core SPS, they will be in heaven, but running at less than 100% MAY be needed. You pumps are NOT overkill for SPS.
  2. You'll do best if your MP40s are forward (toward front of tank) from your rockwork. Direct blast from those puppies (once the corals grow in) encourages nusance algae. Nothing bad. But unavoidable in blasting current under the lights.
  3. You'll do well to consider if you put one as high as you can (high light occurring concurrent with high flow, just as they are in nature - you don't often have one without the other).
  4. You'll see better random flow if the other one (not the high one) is several inches lower than the other.
Looking good! Love the rocks. :)
 
Thankfully I'm single and don't have to worry about being made to sleep in one of them when something goes wrong or the cc bill comes in. ;) I agree; long, wide, and shallow relative to length is much nicer than long, thin, and tall. The larger area opens up so many aquascaping possibilities.

Good luck with your 80 build. I'll be checking it out.
 
scolley,

Yeah, I agree on all points. I kind of just stuck them on the glass for the picture and to get them out of the way. They're also in the front half of the tank relative to the rock work. My main concern is flow in the space between the groups. Especially once things start growing in and taking up space.

Thanks for the kind words about the scaping. I felt like playing around and seeing what I could come up with. There's about 200lbs more sitting on the floor of the room and in a wheelbarrow. Some changes may be made when it comes down to the final stretch. The only thing I do know for certain is that I'm going to use that big rock as the focal point. I want to give colonies as much room to grow outwards as possible and that guy has a lot of prime real estate.
 
Talking to a fellow SERIOUS planted tank hobbiests, I can tell you that good aquascaping help in the reefing world is HARD to find. IMO it's because reefers generally don't KNOW what's going to grow well in a given spot. Too much hit and miss for most of us. But good aquascaping BEGINS with the end in mind. So there's a conflict, standind directly in th way of good rock aquascaping.

In my opinion is that you would be well advised to draft a plan of exactly what corals are going to grow where. And how big. IMO only then can you know if the underlying rock work is appropriate. My 2 cents. ;)
 
Steve,

That's exactly what I've been doing for the past couple months. The basic concept is to have a lot of open space both on the rock and in the substrate for corals to grow while using the rock to form a basic shape. It may not seem like it in the photo, but there are some large open areas in the rear corners and between the rock groups where I plan on putting species that grow large and need room, such as Staghorn, caps, and/or the various Euphyllia. The rocks are for species which grow more densely and/or encrust. I'd love to get a nice tabling acro or two in here too. The ultimate goal is to have a community of animals growing densely together where the only time I have to put my hands in the tank is to trim/groom the corals to minimize conflict and maintain a basic shape or good lighting/flow.

I think I've got an isosceles triangle grouping pretty well laid out and am now in the stage where I'm looking at lots of peoples' tanks to see how different corals grow and which ones I want. It's going to be a couple months before this bad boy will be ready for corals and I'm in no hurry. I'd much rather source and place specific corals with care and intent than pack it full and have to do a lot of shifting around. I'm sure there'll be some amount of moving depending on how the animals react to my particular system, but I want to minimize that.

Thank you always for your thoughts and constructive commentary.
 
Phil - happy to help where I can. Though am still "relatively" new to this stuff myself, only now having my first successful SPS dominant reef. Sounds like you are doing all the right things though.

I'm having an "aquascaping" problem or two at the moment moment myself, that I'll share since it might provide insight that is helpful to you...

As my SPS grow in I've got trouble with encrusting SPS. Many varieties want to take over whatever real estate they can touch. And while I had been told that some corals (like my PokerStar monti) will not encroach on something like a Staghorn, mine does. It didn't get the memo I guess. ;) So IMO be careful where you place encrusting SPS - regardless of how "peaceful" their growing patterns are reputed to be. Once they get going, they are near impossible to "move" to another location.

Also, visual balance is a non-stop problem for me. Under similar conditions, different SPS can grow at pretty dramatically varying rates. LPS too actually. So while I have an over all visual balance I'm trying to achieve, it's always getting messed up by some coral or another that's growing much faster than its neighbors. I don't really have an answer for this problem. But it appears that you are aiming for some serious aquascaping, so you'll run into the problem too. All I can say is to make sure any fast growers (like my Birdsnests! And Duncans!) can be easily removed and replaced for pruning.

Good luck.
 
How often have you had to trim or move corals because they grew too fast? I'm not adverse to hacking back or moving if needed, but of course I'd like to avoid it for as long as possible.

That's a good point on the encrusting species. I'd thought to use them along the lower portions of rocks, especially in the foreground, similarly to how some people grow mushrooms and the other colonial polyps. Of course, this is all in theory right now. The proof of concept will be once things are actually living in there. :)
 
How often have you had to trim or move corals because they grew too fast?
I'm not sure I'm the best one to answer that, since I've got a whole lot of life crammed into a little 33g. Likewise, I don't trim as often as I "should". Being less experienced than many here, I've got a tendency to let two SPS grow until they touch, just to see what happens. Because sometime they just avoid each other. But more often one of the two gets a little dieback at the point of contact.

I'd guess I trim about once a month. But when I do, it's usually a little trimming (two corals about to touch) and also some wholesale hacking (darn thing got too big AGAIN, and needs to be ripped out, hacked back and replaced).

I don't mind the work so much as very often - after a hack back - it looks like a coral that needs to fill back in again. A nice balanced coral turns into a nice balanced LARGE coral. And the process of reducing the coral's size often destroys that balance or symmetry. Then you have restored the overall "size" balance in the tank (eye is not drawn to one big, visually dominant coral), but the trimmed one looks like it just got a haircut, and needs to grow back.

As such I find there is rarely a time when something is not in grow out mode. Sorry for the ramble. Hope that helped clarify.
 
I want to follow along with this. What products are you planning to use? I know you said all brightwell, which is a big part of why I want to follow along.

On a side note, I really wish I had a basement so I could make my own aqua man cave. :)
 
Steve,

Since I asked you how your tank behaves I think you're probably the expert on that subject. :) I doubt my system will be as packed with different species as your is and it's got more room for spreading out, but still, experience is experience and is worth learning from.

As far as trimming and interspecific aggression goes, I'm not adverse to a little competition and stinging here and there. As long as it doesn't get out of hand and cause entire colonies to die, that is. I anticipate that most shaping/grooming will take care of that for the most part though.

In my mind's eye I see the system looking like these places over time with a little modification to include species I want to keep. The photos are clearly not mine and all credit goes to the owner of the images.

f8_henkel.jpg


coralgarden.jpg


Moala-coral-gardens-586px.jpg


computing_life1.jpg


It's going to be a long term project that'll require a great deal of patience. I hope I'm up to the task.


ramseynb,

I'm not quite sure exactly what I'll be using yet. It depends on what method of Ca and alk supplementation I decide to go with. Chances are good that I'll get a dosing pump to deploy Calcion, Magnesion, Kalk +2, and maybe Strontion. Other products, such as Potassion and Replenish will be used as needed. The salt will definitely be NeoMarine and I'll be adding MicroBacter 7 for sure. If I'm feeling cheeky and want to add another layer of nutrient management I may include Katalyst for carbon.
 
Phil - I only know enough to know what I don't know. And I've TRIED to get concrete, actionable guidance here on coral compatibility. But generally it devolves into many data points of near useless minutia, like "My Australian Acro Fuzzberry always kills the tips of my Glowing Fuchsia Stag Antler." Not exactly actionable. But I THINK I've learned this about SPS aggression...

Hydnophora trumps Millepora, which trumps Acropora, which trumps Montipora (usually).

And in most of those cases contact only causes localized damage, except in the case of Hydnophora that (I'm given to understand - have not experienced) will outright kill less aggressive SPS.

OK, now I'm tapped out on SPS interspecies competition. On to growth patterns...

A large visual element of your photos above are flat, or horizontal growers - appearing to be Montipora and tabling acros (which you indicated that you want). In my limited experience your best bet to get them really flat like that (and not twirling in on themselves) is with high flow. And with your MP40s, that will be NO issue. The other more "branchy" corals - like what look like staghorns acros in the third pic, and the tight, dense bushy corals (which could be many things) in the first and second pics, should be easy for you too. Almost any SPS is going to grow thicker (diameter of the branches) and denser (proximity of the branches to each other) in a high flow. So again, your MP40's will likely wind up a good choice for what you are intending to do.

And finally, at the risk of monopolizing your thread (and will then be happy to be quiet)...

I LOVE the first pic as an example of what you would like to do. The forms are consistent - flat surfaces and round balls of coral. IMO too many reefers will begin with something like that, and let branchy acros grow through it, TOTALLY blowing the nice, consistent visual. I'm not knocking branchy corals. I'm merely suggesting that an aquascape should be balanced and consistent. And where inconsistent, done thoughtfully and deliberately - like branchy along the sides, or one corner, etc. Something that is not visually inconsistent with the whole. No different than plants. ;)

ALSO please note that the second photo is the only one that is primarily a side shot. Most of the others are primarily top views - not directly over, but above the plane of the side of the corals. That matters a LOT because we generally view our corals side on. Not their best angle, which is the top. So take a look at that shot, the side one. See the "legs" of those tabling acros? In a tank that does not really look that good. Very little color. Creating dark shadows that have to be dealt with. I don't have an answer to that problem, but wanted you to be cognizant of it as you contemplate the design.

Too many words. Hope that helped. :)
 
Back
Top