SweetJesus
In Memoriam
no problem, here to help!
Patrick
Patrick
Just finished Nilson kalkwasser reactor
- Thread starter plankton
- Start date
If it has a 1/4" NPT thread, then yes.
NPT means that it has a tapered thread. It gets more narrow the deeper it goes. This way when you thread in something with the same thread, it will seal as it tightens. Always use teflon tape, though.
You will regularly find 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT taps at hardware stores. 1/2" is a bit too big. Most likely you have 1/4". Just take one of the fittings to the hardware store (Home Depot usually carries a 1/4" tap) with you and compare the thread on the fitting to the tap thread.
Also note that the 1/4" NPT tap and drill bit combo that HD sells was useless to me because the shank of the drill bit was too large to fit in my drill. They sell them seperately, too. And the seperate drill bit has a turned down shank to work in any drill.
NPT means that it has a tapered thread. It gets more narrow the deeper it goes. This way when you thread in something with the same thread, it will seal as it tightens. Always use teflon tape, though.
You will regularly find 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT taps at hardware stores. 1/2" is a bit too big. Most likely you have 1/4". Just take one of the fittings to the hardware store (Home Depot usually carries a 1/4" tap) with you and compare the thread on the fitting to the tap thread.
Also note that the 1/4" NPT tap and drill bit combo that HD sells was useless to me because the shank of the drill bit was too large to fit in my drill. They sell them seperately, too. And the seperate drill bit has a turned down shank to work in any drill.
Hi!
Built my own Kalk reactor using a magnetic stirrer bought used from e-Bay for about 60 bucks. The reactor just sits on the magnetic platform with the spinner bar inside. It runs for 1/2 hr every 3 hrs on a timer from Radio Shack. No power heads/wires or impelers/bubbles to worry about. The plum goes up about 1/2 way.
Ro water siphons in at a positive pressure from a holding tank and a mechanical doser with an electronic float valve pulls out Kalkwasser from the reactor and drips it into the sump to compensate for evaporation....very stable. No hassle.
Built my own Kalk reactor using a magnetic stirrer bought used from e-Bay for about 60 bucks. The reactor just sits on the magnetic platform with the spinner bar inside. It runs for 1/2 hr every 3 hrs on a timer from Radio Shack. No power heads/wires or impelers/bubbles to worry about. The plum goes up about 1/2 way.
Ro water siphons in at a positive pressure from a holding tank and a mechanical doser with an electronic float valve pulls out Kalkwasser from the reactor and drips it into the sump to compensate for evaporation....very stable. No hassle.
Have most of the parts for my nilsen reactor. Start putting together soon. I found some glue at HD made by "Super Glue", was wondering if anyone has tried it or what they think about it. It is a two part epoxy, slow drying, super strength (so they say). Comes in like a double shot applicator so it squirts out equal parts. I'll try it on a test piece first and see how it holds up.
sterbrock:
What materials is the reactor made from? If it is PVC, then I would use the PVC solvent. If it's acrylic, then the acrylic solvent like Weld-on 3 or 4 or 40.
The superglue stuff contains cyanoacrylate which is very strong, but it is brittle and can easily be compromised.
The recommended solvents will actually weld the joints, not just glue them.
mgk
What materials is the reactor made from? If it is PVC, then I would use the PVC solvent. If it's acrylic, then the acrylic solvent like Weld-on 3 or 4 or 40.
The superglue stuff contains cyanoacrylate which is very strong, but it is brittle and can easily be compromised.
The recommended solvents will actually weld the joints, not just glue them.
mgk
Pbrown3701
New member
A little late on this thread... sorry
I have a good recomendation for the top of this reactor which I am planning to use. I used a 4" to 2" PVC reducer and then connected half of a 2" Union to the top (the half with the O ring). Then instead of using the other half of the union, cut a round piece of acrylic sheet so that it fits inside the tightening ring. When you screw it down, it holds the acrylic tightly against the o-ring. Plus, the top is clear, so you can see down into the reactor for air bubbles. ALso, the union i am using has a hollow "tray" that will catch any slight water spills from the top. With as easy as sealing this thing is, I am planning on not installing a air bleed valve and just tighten the union down as soon as the water reaches the top and begins to overflow (the tray catches the spill).
I have a question. I'm using 4" clear PVC for the body and 1/2" and 3/4" PVC to go through the 4" for the pump intake/output. Should I use simply PVC cement for these PVC-PVC connections or should I use something a little more thick to better seal these connections? Any recomendations?
sorryI have a good recomendation for the top of this reactor which I am planning to use. I used a 4" to 2" PVC reducer and then connected half of a 2" Union to the top (the half with the O ring). Then instead of using the other half of the union, cut a round piece of acrylic sheet so that it fits inside the tightening ring. When you screw it down, it holds the acrylic tightly against the o-ring. Plus, the top is clear, so you can see down into the reactor for air bubbles. ALso, the union i am using has a hollow "tray" that will catch any slight water spills from the top. With as easy as sealing this thing is, I am planning on not installing a air bleed valve and just tighten the union down as soon as the water reaches the top and begins to overflow (the tray catches the spill).
I have a question. I'm using 4" clear PVC for the body and 1/2" and 3/4" PVC to go through the 4" for the pump intake/output. Should I use simply PVC cement for these PVC-PVC connections or should I use something a little more thick to better seal these connections? Any recomendations?
Similar threads
