Just got the coolest chiller!

fins... not trying to be picky, but I feel a need to differentiate between a sales pitch and reality.

Are for the amperage requirements, they are run off of 24v, therefore it cuts down on the Amp needed to run the conditioners.
Amps mean nothing without voltage. Of course increasing the voltage reduces the current (AMPS). However, POWER is the same. This is OHMS LAW in it's most basic form.

Incrase the VOLTAGE to 48 Volts, and the amaperage will be cut in half again. However your electric meter will still log the same amount of power being consumed....

That does not take into account the high amount of heat introduced back into the room that the chiller is running in, making them less efficient the more they run.
The last time I checked a peltier produced a significant amount of heat per degree of cooling. This heat is also put back into the room. Again, these are simply not efficient devices.

The 1/3 also requires a feed pump of ~720 to 1200gph at 85w for an Eheim 1262, while the Ocean Geotronic only requires a 20w Maxi-Jet 1200.
This is kind of a straw arguement. Feed rates are important, but not to the degree that the claim states. Similar cooling capacities and surface contact will work with similar flow rates. Basic thermodynamics at work.

I don't feel that these are bad devices at all, as they have their place and make sense in some situations :)
 
I noticed that also Bean and another problem is that any kind of power conversion AC to DC or DC to AC gives another big hit in lost power.
If you dont believe that one folks just use one of those killawatt meters on a 12 volt power supply that is powering an Inverter that's running a pump.
Then plug the pump straight into the 110V through the Killawatt and see the difference in power consumption. On mine it was like 180 Watts Direct and something like 270 Watts via the Inverter. That extra 80 Watts is being consumed/lost by the Inverter and 12 volt DC supply.
 
Bean,
I am not here for a sales pitch, just to state some facts on the product. The reality is that you are posting on a new product to the market, that you have NO experience with. If this was a sales pitch, then I would be on here telling how no one ever needs a chiller, that this is the be all, end all for aquarium temp control. I have actually two test units up and running for over a month to make sure they perform as claimed, which they do.

fins... not trying to be picky, but I feel a need to differentiate between a sales pitch and reality.

as I mentioned on nano-reef also, the biggest concern that I have is the power supply. peltier notoriously draw HUGH current, u need a very good high amp DC power supply, reads $150+, to make the cooling device efficient and powerful. also as the room temp goes up, not only the peltier may not be as effective, but the current draw will rise also, hence, very good high amp DC power supply.

Ohms law is very simple, No where did I state that by using 24v that it will make is consume less power, just that the amp requirement is not as high, therefore the problem that DarkDevil had is not an issue.

Amps mean nothing without voltage. Of course increasing the voltage reduces the current (AMPS). However, POWER is the same. This is OHMS LAW in it's most basic form.

Incrase the VOLTAGE to 48 Volts, and the amaperage will be cut in half again. However your electric meter will still log the same amount of power being consumed....

When was the last time you checked, and on what Peltier chiller did you check on? This is very simple one to test, take a measurement of the incoming air temp on your chiller and list here, and I will do the same with the 1/3hp Chiller I have running here along with the Ocean Geotronic. I will have those numbers for you on Mon night. Please brand, model, and power consumption, so we can compare with all the info.

In your research, how much heat does a chiller produce per degree of cooling? You can walk by a chiller and just feel if it is on, on the Ocean, there is not noticeable heat coming from the unit.

The last time I checked a peltier produced a significant amount of heat per degree of cooling. This heat is also put back into the room. Again, these are simply not efficient devices

As far as a straw argument, when discussing energy consumption needed, all parts needed for proper operation need to be taken into consideration. And feed pumps is a part of consideration unless you use a drop in coil. The flow rates I posted are from Manufacturers specs, not something I made up. Try to run a 1/3hp chiller off of a 20w Maxi-Jet and lmk how well that works for you. On the flip side, if the Ocean Geotronic is not supplied with the proper flow, it will not operate correctly either. Flow rates should be paid close attention to on any form of Chiller, if not you will not be operating at peak efficiency and just wasting electricity.
This is kind of a straw arguement. Feed rates are important, but not to the degree that the claim states. Similar cooling capacities and surface contact will work with similar flow rates. Basic thermodynamics at work.

RobbyG,
These units do not perform the same as a chiller, but a designed for a market that wants to control tank temp without the drawbacks of a traditional chiller. On the test I have performed so far, I have had not problem under normal instances of them having a 10F to 12F temp drop. When outside temps are more, I am sure it will not give the same pull down, but neither will a traditional chiller. They both work the same in that instance. The hotter it is, the more they have to work. They need to be sized properly according to tank size, average air temp, along with the amount of heat being introduced in the tank.

I will post the results of the high temp test about mid-week. Do you currently run a chiller on your tank? Maybe you can measure intake air temp and exhaust air temp for me also?

I noticed that also Bean and another problem is that any kind of power conversion AC to DC or DC to AC gives another big hit in lost power.
If you don't believe that one folks just use one of those killawatt meters on a 12 volt power supply that is powering an Inverter that's running a pump.
Then plug the pump straight into the 110V through the Killawatt and see the difference in power consumption. On mine it was like 180 Watts Direct and something like 270 Watts via the Inverter. That extra 80 Watts is being consumed/lost by the Inverter and 12 volt DC supply.
The power rating is of the AC/DC Converter, so if it is labeled at 120,260,300,500w, that is the max power the unit consumes to operate the controller, Peltiers, Fans, and the Converter. It is a different situation than you are trying to explain. It is more similar to the way the Tunze uses a DC motor for their stream pumps. It is inverted from AC to DC, not DC to AC. A typical chiller still pulls more wattage, and amps than the Ocean Geotronic does. Regardless of power loss in the AC/DC conversion.


Do they have a titanium heat exchanger? or what material is it made from ,you know salt water will eat just about anything. can they be mounted on top of the canopy?

The heat exchanger is made of Aluminum Alloy 6060-T5. That has been tested by RTM Breda Independent labs that no, not even incipeint, corrosion and / or erosion processes inducing surface damage were detected affecting the wet inside surfaces of the aluminum alloy extruded heat exchanger, operated in both fresh water and in sea water, integrated in a riff aquarium.
A copy of this report is available in pdf form for anyone that is interested. Just shoot me an e-mail.
Yes they can be mounted on top of a canopy as long as there is 4" on each side of the lateral air intakes(both sides) and 6" of clearance above the air output.
The Power unit is typically remote mounted away from the unit.

The Ocean Geotronic is not a traditional chiller, if they were, then there would be not need to offer them for sale into a small market that is already saturated with chillers. They are a niche product that fits the needs of most average aquariums. They are not made for every situation, but are very effective for what they are designed for. They are compact, lightweight, silent, and easy to install. The Peltier's have over a ten year life span with no service needed, just clean dust off the heat sink as needed.

It is understandable to doubt a new product in this hobby, but as more units are sold, you will notice that more and more positive reviews will be coming forward. If they did not perform, the I would not be investing in the money to import them into the US. If you have any specific technical questions, just lmk and I can get the info relayed from the engineers in Italy.
 
Fins I will make this as short as possible.

1) My "sales pitch" comments were more directed towards the OEM, not your company. Lets leave it at that.

2) I don't need to own one of these units to make comments on them. They use PELTIER devices to remove heat. Again, these are VERY WELL UNDERSTOOD devices with a VERY FINITE efficiency level. Commenting on them is very easy.

I certainly don't need to measure "air temperatures" around chillers to have this conversation.

Knowing OHMS LAW (you mention you understand it) and some basic science can tell you a lot. If Unit A is more efficient than unit B at cooling a material, then unit A uses less electricity per degree of cooling. That also means that unit A produces less heat. Remember the POWER CONSUMTPION of each unit can only be attributed to HEAT (directly heat, friction, motion, sound).

With regards to "flow rates" and "manufacturers ratings", what can I say but... gimme a break. Do you really want to go down the path of manufacturers ratings or measurements? My point was that you quoted the "LABEL RATINGS" for flow to show a 75w power consumption difference in pump requirements. I would firmly contend that the power consumtpion requirements could be broguth much closer together (depending on the compressor based chiller of course).

Again, the PELTIER based devices are nice for their own reasons. They make A LOT of sense in some applications. If the goal is energy savings, then a compressor bases system is almost always going to be more efficient. For many people the value is not in efficiency, but rather noise, aesthetics, size, and "wow" factor.

Enjoy
 
Well a whole lot of folks have opinions & theories, but what I have is a chiller that is still silent, small, looks nice, has a wow factor. Oh, and a tank that has not reached 78.3 since I plugged in the Maxi-Jet. I did raise the room temp to 80 over the weekend and the chiller maintained 78.2 high (range is 77.9 - 80.1).

I still have yet to hook up the watt meter.

I will be increasing my MH photoperiod to six hour.

Oh and for anyone worried about me falling for a sales pitch - given my profession that is highly unlikely. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7796454#post7796454 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
2) I don't need to own one of these units to make comments on them.

Again, the PELTIER based devices are nice for their own reasons. They make A LOT of sense in some applications. If the goal is energy savings, then a compressor bases system is almost always going to be more efficient.

Enjoy

To comment number one, I guess I'd say of course you don't have to own one to comment on them, but you should probably operate one before you can comment accurately .

To number two, I guess I would emphasize the word almost .
 
FLiger...

Watts are watts, and peltiers are peltiers. There is no magic and no "black" box. So making accurate comments is fairly easy when you understand the technology. Now if and when peltier technology changes, and the educated public is unaware... then the comments may not be accurate.
 
Fair enough, but no ever claimed magic or a black box though. Just a well engineered piece of equipment that in practice is working really well. Remember, I am offsetting a LOT of watt input. No offense, but your argument like saying all combustible engines are the same. Obviously some are engineered better than others for certain applications.

It seems like you are saying compressors are better than peltiers, and it reminds me of people swear Becketts are crap and you HAVE TO go with a NW skimmer. Lumping all makers of each category is ludicrous since there are some INCREDIBLE Becketts and some really sh*tty NW skimmers - and of course vice versa.

Theory and practice are entirely different and all I know is that I'm using this chiller in a real world application and it is working superbly. Now if I can just remember to get that meter on it.
 
Nice looking device. I know 5086 Aluminum alloy is unaffected by seawater but I didn't know 6060 was. I do a lot of TIG on 5086 and 5052.

In my view, one of the nice things about Peltier coolers is that they can be modulated to maintain a fairly tight temp range by adjusting the input power to them. In contrast, a fractional hp chiller with a reciprocating compressor operates in an on/off (binary) mode and is usually given some differential to work with as a control range.

Sure, there are probably people running variable frequency drives on their chillers somewhere to allow them to track the heat input and modulate ... but I'm talking about off the shelf hobby stuff.

I solved the noise and heat input to the room via another method ... I plumbed my chiller throught the wall and put it outside on the patio.

I bought a chunk of CP2 Titanium for doing a couple of exchangers for nano chillers using Peltiers but perhaps I should just pickup one of these units.
 
Sorry fliger.... but what I am saying is nothing like saying combustible engines are the same. I am also not talking about skimmers. Not talking theory vs practice either. Just plain old peltier technology. If you want to keep this about peltiers, then fine, but lets not confuse thise with a bunch of silly analogies that don't fit.

Peltiers:
As current rises, efficiency drops.
As the junction heat rises, so does the resistance, and again efficiency drops.

Peltiers are pelteirs, not complex combustion engines with moving parts or skimmers that have many variables. They are very simple bi-metal devices (in reality large transistor junctions).

They are very reliant on heatsink capacity and the ability to move the heat away from the heatsink (back to the point fins was trying to make). The more heat moved away the more efficeint the junction becomes.

Watts are watts.. a peltier that consumes 500 watts heats the room the same as a chiller that consumes 500 watts.

Nobody said your not using it in the real world, or that it wouldn't work. Why do we keep coming back to this point?

Please, lets not turn this into a uselsss arguement. I have acknowledged the benefits of the units and the fact that they may be attractive to people for those reasons... I have acknowledged that fact that they work and that they are pretty cool. However that does not mean they are hard to explain or a mystery. The most complex piece of that unit is likely the power supply and the fact that is smart enough to meter current as needed instead of just zooming along all the time.
 
bbragg the problem with a VFD on a chiller is that the coil lengths remain constant. I suppose a TXV and some smart valves and could make such a rig work... but even most of the high tech units I come accross are just big mofo scroll compressors with big coild and fans and some very expensive electronics to monitor system health :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7800921#post7800921 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Nobody said your not using it in the real world, or that it wouldn't work. Why do we keep coming back to this point?

Please, lets not turn this into a uselsss arguement.

Well ... I guess I keep coming back to this point because what else really matters to reefers? I don't have the time (or desire) to go back and figure out who said what & why but for anyone reading this thread - I'm sure what reefers care about is

- Does this chiller work
- Is the extra expense upfront offset by the other obvious advantages
- Is there a wattage savings between the chiller itself and the feed pump that would offset the higher cost upfront

Not what is a Peltier, and how does it work, and are all Peltiers built the same ... but does it work, and is it worth it.

As far as turning it into a useless argument, I kinda feel like the extraneous conversation has been useless - since this is reefcentral, not techcentral - and I'm just trying to figure out the three questions above. I mean, I started the thread which sets the reason for the thread - and unless something supports or directly does not support that purpose is by definition "off-topic" and extraneous/superfluous/useless. I have definitive answers for the two, and for those who don't value the other benefits (because they have the space, don't need to move it, don't care about the size/noise/wow factor, already have a heater, don't mind having a heater and already have a trusty controller with acceptable redundancies) and ONLY care about money - and that is CERTAINLY understandable as this is an expensive hobby and electricity is not gettin cheaper anytime soon - I will try to figure out number three. And yes, that is the longest run-on sentence of my life. :D

And please don't take it the wrong way. As I mentioned, I always enjoy your posts - just clearing up my intentions.

Regards,

David
 
Peltiers are Peltiers?

Peltiers are Peltiers?

Bean,
Here is a little info for you about the Peltiers.
I can not see how you don't understand that thru modern research, testing and materials, a better peltier unit is made? On the Ocean Geotronic, the Peltier unit is of special design to optimize the coefficient of performance, and the heatsink is also optimized. So saying that

Watts are watts, and peltiers are peltiers

Is simply wrong.

Here is also a little info about Peltiers, and wattage


How efficient is a thermoelectric cooler?

Technically, the word efficiency relates to the amount of energy one gets out of a machine versus how much energy one puts into it. In heat pumping applications, this term is rarely used because the energy-in is very different from the service provided. We supply electrical energy to a TEC, but we get heat pumping. For TECs, it is standard to use "coefficient of performance" not efficiency. The coefficient of performance (COP) is the amount of heat pumping divided by the amount of supplied electrical power. In other words, COP tells you how many units of heat pumping you will get for each unit of electrical power you supply. It is possible, in special situations, to pump more watts of heat than the watts of electrical power input. COP depends on the application, heat pumped, and temperature differential required.


Now in case it was missed from above
It is possible, in special situations, to pump more watts of heat than the watts of electrical power input

However, higher COPs can be achieved with optimized custom TECs.


Now this is not saying that a Peltier is way better than a compresser based chiller, that was never my point, each has it's place, but not all peltiers are the same.
 
bbrag.. I did not mean to infer that variable speed units don't exist (I just don't think most gain you much for the complexity) though the new 13 SEER mandate is moving things towards that being a feature of all units. I guess some units are aproaching a 20 SEER rating. (Dunno what this will mean for chillers... as there is not much to change with these).
 
Fins watts are watts. A watt consumed is a watt consumed. If you are unable to understand that fact, then this is a fully wasted discussion, as we are not both operating on the same page. (not being rude or confrontational... honestly)

Of course peltier technology is getting better (mostly due to better heatsink and power supply technology but also due to better junction construction) But it is still not more efficient than phase change cooling.

Thanks for the links on peltiers, but I already understand how they work. I am also very aware of COP, EER, SEER and a few other ways to measure "efficiency".... call it anything you want, it is still a way to look at efficiency. The different models take into account environmental variables to extrapolate real world usage aproximations instead of strait power consumption from the wall in propertion to the BTU/s removed. BTW COP is just a watts to BTUs ratio :)

Watts are Watts. If they are consumed from the wall, they are converted to heat, it's the law of the universe. You certainly don't have fision or fusion going on in a pletier, so WATTS ARE WATTS. Please don't confuse WATTS with the efficiency of the peltier device. If it's pulled from the wall then it enters the room as heat in one way or another.

I am not saying a peltier is WORSE or BETTER..or phase change is worse or better. I was and have been simply stating the fact that the peltier efficiency is not better than a phase change chiller. I am not even saying that the difference in efficiency is a money saver for phase change. They are somewhat costly devices to maintain and can certainly be a pain in the butt.

However, there is a reason that phase change cooling is still so popular and TEC devices are not cooling everything on the planet.... Maybe one day that will change.
 
Pretty much thats the bottom line.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7801305#post7801305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
But it is still not more efficient than phase change cooling.
Maybe one day that will change. [/B]

I guess my earlier statement went unnoticed but I will repeat it again, Peltiers do have a very important use, and that is on the smaller sized Tanks like Nano tanks, Tanks that are too small for the smallest 1/4 hp chillers.
In uses other than Nano tanks, I have serious doubts. I would love to be proved wrong!

Fliger no word from you, whats happening how is it working? I think your question "1" cannot be answered by just "Yes". We know it will work, the more important question is what kind of power is it using on a Killawatt meter to keep your tank at Temp X when Ambient temp is Y.
 
Just got in, I haven't hooked up the meter yet but I will.

Robby, I think maybe the statement didn't really get a lot of response because you made a blanket statement without having used the product. Obviously there are many other advantages to the chiller that made it worth it to me, and I'd imagine lots of other reefers (based on the PM's and emails lol). Your earlier statement was an opinion, stated as fact, based on a product you've never used/seen/felt. My tank is far from a nano and has far more heat input than your standard 48x32 tank - and its working just fine. Even if the chiller is NO MORE efficient than a standard chiller - it is still small, silent, lightweight, not an eyesore and I won't need a charge. Plus it heats as well and comes with a dual stage controller (which is very nice I might add). The silence alone is worth the few hundred extra according to my wife. ;-)

I certainly hope I can prove you wrong too, but if I can't I will let you know. As you know, I've tried other European import products that didn't meet my expectations and they were soon sold & replaced. ;-)

My tank has not gone past 78.2 since I hooked it up. My house temp is controlled based on when people are home, and raises only as high as 80. I can't really test it past that. I did however run it inside my totally enclosed stand Friday (Elos stands have no ventilation) and I'd imagine it gets much warmer than 80. Since the chiller is so small and quiet, I have since moved it out from inside the cabinet.

I will most definitely provide more info as I can get it!
 
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