Kelley's 37 gal system. from the start
- Thread starter kelley_mc
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kelley_mc
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8978655#post8978655 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Navyblue
What is the dimension of your 37? I used to have a 2'x1.5'x1.5', and it was as you said too large for a nano and small compared to other tanks here.
It's like the mid-size car of fish tanks.
Mine in 30 long, 12 deep, 22 high.
Last edited:
kelley_mc
Active member
I have cycled my rock in the tank and there is nothing wrong with doing that. In fact, I would think that most people actually do it that way when they are setting up a new tank.
I chose to cycle my LR outside my display for a couple reasons. The first is that my display tank isn't done yet.
I know I could have waited but I wanted to start establishing the rock and I didn't want to wait to start that process until the diplay was completed. Another reason is that I move my LR around alot when I cycle it. As it cycles, I check it for any bad hitchhiker or die-off that needs to be removed. I am always afraid of scratching the glass on the display tank when I move my rock. By using cheap rubbermaid containers, I have no worries about that.
Yet another reason is that I am a BIG believer in water changes early on when cycling LR. By using my rubbermaid containers, I am only using about 20 gals of water. My display when completed will have about 50-55 gals of water. By using smaller containers I use less water and salt. (That being said, I am aware that the greater volume of water will produce a lower effect of ammonia and nitrite levels in the water).
The final reason is that I find that the easiest and quickest way to change 100% of the water is to move the rock. It would take quite a long time to siphon out all of the water and refill it if I was to cycle my LR in my display tank. By using two rubbermaids next to eachother, it took me maybe 5 - 10 minutes to do a 100% water change and the rock was out of water for less than 10 seconds. I feel that puts much less stress on the rock. The other good thing about using 2 containers is that you can shake the junk off the rock with each water change. It is amazing how much of this junk can come off by just swishing it in the water.
I think that covers it. Sorry for the long response, but I hope it makes sense.
kelley_mc
Active member
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoy it.
I did 100% water changes every day. As soon as I did a water change, I starting making saltwater for the next day. It took less than a week of water changes before I was able to perform normal water changes, 10% per week or 20% every couple weeks.
The rock is still sitting in the 29 and my last test results were all good with ammonia, nitrites and nitrates all at 0.
kelley_mc
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9167572#post9167572 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Enderrea
well every thing looks like you put your mind in to it. nice looking Stand, i'm looking at making one for an 80 gallon. looks like a nice way to build.
I'll be keeping an eye on this one!
Thanks! I did some work on the stand this weekend. I will post some pics today.
kelley_mc
Active member
I finished my sump and I am happy with the results. Here is an image of the final product:
I changed from thin acyrlic to 1/4" glass. Much stronger bond and I feel much better product for the long run. Silicone didn't bond well to the acrylic. Even when I removed the baffles as I changed my designs, the silicone peeled off the acrylic in one long piece. However, the silicone wouldn't come off the glass at all. I had to use a lot of patience and time to get it all off with a razor blade.
You can also see that I installed the pump guard. I drilled a small hole in the black plastic top rim of the aquarium and zip tied the top of the guard to the aquarium. Then I cut small pieces of acrylic and made a sand/rock guard along the lower section of the eggcrate. I drilled small holes and zip tied the top of the acrylic to the eggcrate. Then I used a THICK bead of silicone and secured the acylic to the tank and sealed the corner. It worked great. Everything is nice and secure. I may have to add some gutter guard over the eggcrate to reduce the size of the openings in the guard. It is possible some chaeto may find its way to the pump using just the eggcrate.
I changed from thin acyrlic to 1/4" glass. Much stronger bond and I feel much better product for the long run. Silicone didn't bond well to the acrylic. Even when I removed the baffles as I changed my designs, the silicone peeled off the acrylic in one long piece. However, the silicone wouldn't come off the glass at all. I had to use a lot of patience and time to get it all off with a razor blade.
You can also see that I installed the pump guard. I drilled a small hole in the black plastic top rim of the aquarium and zip tied the top of the guard to the aquarium. Then I cut small pieces of acrylic and made a sand/rock guard along the lower section of the eggcrate. I drilled small holes and zip tied the top of the acrylic to the eggcrate. Then I used a THICK bead of silicone and secured the acylic to the tank and sealed the corner. It worked great. Everything is nice and secure. I may have to add some gutter guard over the eggcrate to reduce the size of the openings in the guard. It is possible some chaeto may find its way to the pump using just the eggcrate.
kelley_mc
Active member
Here is an image of the stand and canopy at this point.
I have to thank my dad for all of his help on the stand and canopy. He has been building furniture since I was a kid and does a great job at it. He has helped take my plans to reality and I am happy with the results so far.
Sorry, we were so busy building that I didn't take very many construction photos. I will try to descibe what has been done.
First, the stand sides were skinned with 3/4" oak plywood. We cut to size and screwed in from the inside.
Then, the front frame was made with 3/4" oak and secured together using pockets screws. The front frame was datoed so that it fit over the side panels for a nice, tight, strong hold. We secured the front to the stand using pockets screws.
Next, the trim was made and put around the top of the stand. This not only improves the overall appearance of the stand, but also hides the black trim on the tank.
After that, we cut the back and canopy sides using a table saw and finishing up the cut with a hand saw. The sides were datoed to accept a 3/4" piece of plywood and that is what is used to sit on the aquarium top frame.
Next, the front of the canopy was built. Again, this was built using pocket screws and 3/4" oak. The lower section of the of front frame was datoed and another piece of 3/4" oak plywood was added. Now the front and both sides rest on the aquarium top frame. The front was attached with pocket screws.
There is still quite a bit of work left: the top needs to be made, the trim along the top need to be installed, the doors need to be made, and veneer needs to be attached to the sides of the plywood used to make the section behind the aquarium (you can see the plywood edge). After that, sanding, staining, finishing and painting the inside all need to be done.
Once the stand is completely finished, I will then have to finish up the plumbing and see if I have been able to quiet it down.
I have to thank my dad for all of his help on the stand and canopy. He has been building furniture since I was a kid and does a great job at it. He has helped take my plans to reality and I am happy with the results so far.
Sorry, we were so busy building that I didn't take very many construction photos. I will try to descibe what has been done.
First, the stand sides were skinned with 3/4" oak plywood. We cut to size and screwed in from the inside.
Then, the front frame was made with 3/4" oak and secured together using pockets screws. The front frame was datoed so that it fit over the side panels for a nice, tight, strong hold. We secured the front to the stand using pockets screws.
Next, the trim was made and put around the top of the stand. This not only improves the overall appearance of the stand, but also hides the black trim on the tank.
After that, we cut the back and canopy sides using a table saw and finishing up the cut with a hand saw. The sides were datoed to accept a 3/4" piece of plywood and that is what is used to sit on the aquarium top frame.
Next, the front of the canopy was built. Again, this was built using pocket screws and 3/4" oak. The lower section of the of front frame was datoed and another piece of 3/4" oak plywood was added. Now the front and both sides rest on the aquarium top frame. The front was attached with pocket screws.
There is still quite a bit of work left: the top needs to be made, the trim along the top need to be installed, the doors need to be made, and veneer needs to be attached to the sides of the plywood used to make the section behind the aquarium (you can see the plywood edge). After that, sanding, staining, finishing and painting the inside all need to be done.
Once the stand is completely finished, I will then have to finish up the plumbing and see if I have been able to quiet it down.
zmazza
Premium Member
Sweet stand and canopy design. Do you still have the original plans? I'd love to put something together like that.
I'm an amateur wood worker, for sure, but I'm sure something like that would be possible to build. Are the sides and the sides of the canopy all one piece?
How much would did it take? How many sheets of the oak plywood?
I'm an amateur wood worker, for sure, but I'm sure something like that would be possible to build. Are the sides and the sides of the canopy all one piece?
How much would did it take? How many sheets of the oak plywood?
bstoner
Premium Member
I really like your stand and canopy so far. I like how you made a trim piece for the tank to hide the edges and the plumbing in the back.
The sump looks good too, but where are you going to put the skimmer or are you not going to have one?
And how did you get that paper towel roller in there without the paper towels getting all soggy!!!:lol:
The sump looks good too, but where are you going to put the skimmer or are you not going to have one?
And how did you get that paper towel roller in there without the paper towels getting all soggy!!!:lol:
kelley_mc
Active member
Thank you!
Sorry, no plans...
Actually, there never were any plans. The main design was in my head and has been built from the bottom up, literally, from there. The base of the stand is simple 2x4 construction, you can see that earlier in the thread. Nothing fancy there at all. It believe the height is somewhere around 20". Most people recommend building higher, however, the tank will be in my living room where most people are sitting. The 20" level was very pleasing to me.
Once the frame was built, the side were put on. The key here is to be sure to raise the side panel enough so that the top of the plywood plus the height of the trim piece is just high enough to cover the black rim around the tank. The front is made just like a cabinet front and secures to the frame using pocket screws.
The trim around the edge of the stand will be secured using biscuits and glue.
The canopy and back sides are one piece and the sides of the stand are another piece. The whole top will be removable from the tank in case anything comes up and work needs to be done.
So far, only 1 4x8 sheet of plywood has been used. We also used 1 piece of solid oak to make the front frames and trim. From that board, I believe there is also enough wood to make the door frames. We may need to use some scrap pieces to have enough.
kelley_mc
Active member
Actually, I also have a 29 gal that has the same footprint. The aquascaping does take a little more time but it can be done successfully. I won't lie, bigger the better. But.... I do like the 37 gal for many reasons and size is actually one of them. It gives a nice size display in a fairly compact package.
zmazza
Premium Member
Thanks for the helpful tips. I wish I had more cabinetry tools. My brother-in-laws are framers and use alot of tools like miter saws, circular saws, table saws, etc. A router or biscuit joiner are hard to come by. So basically, like you said, just make sure the sides of the canopy cover up the black trim? And it's modular? That's really awesome. I'm definitely going to give it a try.
Then again, I guess you don't have to cover up the back, do you? Since that part will be up against a wall?
Then again, I guess you don't have to cover up the back, do you? Since that part will be up against a wall?
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