stupidgoodness
New member
My tank is the same depth I was going to start off at 8 inches off the water I will be running 2 a360n and 2 a 160we for a 60 inch tank
Kessil Club
- Thread starter Zacktosterone
- Start date
Irishman360
New member
Sweet so I didn't need the goose neck then lol. Besides doing a wall mount type of neck for my light does anyone have any other ideas to raise it?
moondoggy4
Team RC
term?
term?
I think it is called light overspill.
These lights are very powerful so the best thing to do is start high (raise) and low (intesnsity), LPS are the easiest to read they stretch when they want more lighting they shrink when it is to bight, I already slightly bleached my chalice, I kad to put him on the sand bed.
term?
I think it is called light overspill.
These lights are very powerful so the best thing to do is start high (raise) and low (intesnsity), LPS are the easiest to read they stretch when they want more lighting they shrink when it is to bight, I already slightly bleached my chalice, I kad to put him on the sand bed.
Irishman360
New member
Just raised my light up to 9.5", hopefully this helps with my conundrum on that note am I having light overspill? LMK on any opinions on this. Picture added as well
Attachments
coastalexotics
New member
New Mount
New Mount
Just installed 3 of these bad boys on a new display setup with a new mount not the Kessil design mount. Pain in the *** to run the wires but when all said and done the look more then makes up for it. These are on a new Reefer 450 build. Notice all the wires are hidden, no zip ties, mount is solid not flexible, and right angle on the in and out controls.
New Mount
Just installed 3 of these bad boys on a new display setup with a new mount not the Kessil design mount. Pain in the *** to run the wires but when all said and done the look more then makes up for it. These are on a new Reefer 450 build. Notice all the wires are hidden, no zip ties, mount is solid not flexible, and right angle on the in and out controls.
Attachments
octopussy
Member
I have just got 2 new a360we which are great but i am a little concerned with the fan noise. One seems slightly louder than the other but I can hear both from the other side of the room. Is this normal? How quiet are other peoples Kessils running? I'm not sure if I should contact the company about it or if i'm being to picky. My tank ran virtually silently before this.
Last edited:
zachfishman
Active member
I have to listen for my Kessil A360 fan to notice it. I definitely can't hear it across the room.
lhm nole
New member
Should not be that loud to hear across the room contact Kessil their customer service is great
Esage
New member
Where did get this arm from?
zoomonster
New member
Just kind of skimmed through since last time I posted and a couple comments about the 5 A360WE's I have on my SPS heavy 6ft 200g and my observations since.
1) Not even remotely hot ever regardless of power
2) Silent always
3) I have had one that has had some ramp down flicker issues and now a 2nd has started. Not too concerned and eventually I'll contact Kessil and get them replaced.
4) My main goal was accomplished in reducing heat and E consumption. Max tank temp never exceeds 80 vs 3-5F higher last summer requiring powering down or ramping the halides at times. The heat from the MH/T5 is no longer impacting my AC either. Just an example my power use for last month was $85 less than previous year. It also saved me from upgrading circuits since the 5 Kessils draw maybe 3.5a at peak ramp of 80 power, 78 color.
5) When I went from 3 lights (too dark, too much shadow, too much shimmer) tank is much better off and the insane shimmer is toned down more along the lines of what you get from MH. 24x24" coverage is overrated except maybe for fish and softies.
6) To me the goosenecks are a must have vs fixed mount. The adjust-ability is invaluable in targeting light and/or dealing with shadows where you don's want them.
7) Even with all the light from great fixtures there is a problem inherent with ALL LED only systems. Corals lose color or start dying underneath/bottom because of the lack of reflected light you get with MH/T5. That's just a trade off. Frags you won't notice but colonies are a problem (especially bushy stuff). That's one reason I mount everything in a modular fashion so the pieces can get picked up, moved and/or rotated to color up lacking areas or just to rearrange. I've always been a rock stacker and don't ever do permanent aquascapes let alone glue frags/colonies to a aquascape.
8) Other than what I said in 7) corals are growing great and colors are very good.
1) Not even remotely hot ever regardless of power
2) Silent always
3) I have had one that has had some ramp down flicker issues and now a 2nd has started. Not too concerned and eventually I'll contact Kessil and get them replaced.
4) My main goal was accomplished in reducing heat and E consumption. Max tank temp never exceeds 80 vs 3-5F higher last summer requiring powering down or ramping the halides at times. The heat from the MH/T5 is no longer impacting my AC either. Just an example my power use for last month was $85 less than previous year. It also saved me from upgrading circuits since the 5 Kessils draw maybe 3.5a at peak ramp of 80 power, 78 color.
5) When I went from 3 lights (too dark, too much shadow, too much shimmer) tank is much better off and the insane shimmer is toned down more along the lines of what you get from MH. 24x24" coverage is overrated except maybe for fish and softies.
6) To me the goosenecks are a must have vs fixed mount. The adjust-ability is invaluable in targeting light and/or dealing with shadows where you don's want them.
7) Even with all the light from great fixtures there is a problem inherent with ALL LED only systems. Corals lose color or start dying underneath/bottom because of the lack of reflected light you get with MH/T5. That's just a trade off. Frags you won't notice but colonies are a problem (especially bushy stuff). That's one reason I mount everything in a modular fashion so the pieces can get picked up, moved and/or rotated to color up lacking areas or just to rearrange. I've always been a rock stacker and don't ever do permanent aquascapes let alone glue frags/colonies to a aquascape.
8) Other than what I said in 7) corals are growing great and colors are very good.
camsan
New member
Got my kessil a360we hooked up today as well as the controller. Love it and glad I went with the wide. Works great on my 60 cube and covers the whole tank.
I discovered though that it flickers at 5%. It is pretty noticeable...in fact it Caughtmy eye immediately when I looked up. At first I thought it was the shimmer reflecting back but it is for sure the light
. I emailed customer service to ask about it. I certainly don't want my light to be going out on me the first weekend in use....
Also weird is the last hour it is at 5% both intensity and color. The controller says 4%. Not sure why as I don't even think that is an option
I discovered though that it flickers at 5%. It is pretty noticeable...in fact it Caughtmy eye immediately when I looked up. At first I thought it was the shimmer reflecting back but it is for sure the light
. I emailed customer service to ask about it. I certainly don't want my light to be going out on me the first weekend in use....Also weird is the last hour it is at 5% both intensity and color. The controller says 4%. Not sure why as I don't even think that is an option
Hey all
New to the Kessil club but so far I am happy with them over my new Nuvo 38G Mini.(24Lx13Wx20H I went with 2 A160EW and controller.
This is a new tank as I have recently moved and had to shut down my old custom 93g SPS tank.
I have been keeping all my SPS corals at a friend’s house and they have always been under T5 light. My question is how should I start my SPS under these new lights? They are about 5-6” above the water. Should I start around 40% MAX for a few weeks and move them up? Just wanted some info on what other people have done for their SPS moved from T5 to these lights.
Thanks
New to the Kessil club but so far I am happy with them over my new Nuvo 38G Mini.(24Lx13Wx20H I went with 2 A160EW and controller.
This is a new tank as I have recently moved and had to shut down my old custom 93g SPS tank.
I have been keeping all my SPS corals at a friend’s house and they have always been under T5 light. My question is how should I start my SPS under these new lights? They are about 5-6” above the water. Should I start around 40% MAX for a few weeks and move them up? Just wanted some info on what other people have done for their SPS moved from T5 to these lights.
Thanks
Have two A360We on my 90. Switch over from running reefbreeders for a few years. First off they are hanging 8" above the water line with a bare bottom tank. Tank is about 2 years old with mostly LPS and softies. paremeters are stable with maybe my alk about 8 to 9ish. I does BRS 2-part.
I just put in a monti -cap 2 weeks ago and it has already went from orange/red to white. Moved it down near the bottom and nothing has changed. I was running an 8 hour period on the Kessil controller with max 50% intensity and 35% color. I assume I am frying that coral...So I dialed back to max 35% as of today but I am thinking of going lower. I really would like to bring some SPS into my tank but don;t want to fry everything. I have had monti-cap before in other tanks but with MH and it grew great. Even though I had the RB for a few years, for some reason I could not get SPS to survive with them as well.
I don't understand how most with these lights are in the 50 plus intensities with SPS and nothing is frying. Acclimating is the key and I understand that, just getting frustrated. LOL
Being these are the newest model out..is it possible they are more powerful than the models before it? Other than the frying of the monti-cap. everything else seems ok.
I just put in a monti -cap 2 weeks ago and it has already went from orange/red to white. Moved it down near the bottom and nothing has changed. I was running an 8 hour period on the Kessil controller with max 50% intensity and 35% color. I assume I am frying that coral...So I dialed back to max 35% as of today but I am thinking of going lower. I really would like to bring some SPS into my tank but don;t want to fry everything. I have had monti-cap before in other tanks but with MH and it grew great. Even though I had the RB for a few years, for some reason I could not get SPS to survive with them as well.
I don't understand how most with these lights are in the 50 plus intensities with SPS and nothing is frying. Acclimating is the key and I understand that, just getting frustrated. LOL
Being these are the newest model out..is it possible they are more powerful than the models before it? Other than the frying of the monti-cap. everything else seems ok.
zachfishman
Active member
I have heard that Mcaps in particular are a lot more sensitive to Kessil lights, and require much longer acclimation times than other corals. You could place a layered screen shade over the tank to shade just that coral, and slowly remove layers to acclimate it separately.
Also yes, each newer Kessil A-series light is more powerful than the previous model.
cougareyes
New member
Have my BC14 up and running over 4 years under stock lighting, have had great success with the corals I like; euphyllias, duncans, acan echinatas, and more. Wanted to add a clam and some sparkle so I took the top off and replaced with the A150w 15K. My 1st response was wow, looks great; my euphyllias and duncans responded nicely. BUT, added a clam 4" below surface with light 9" above and almost 3 months NO growth. I moved the clam to another tank and it's doing fine now. Find the sparkle TOO much, my fish even freaked out for about a month, comparing to the Maxspect Razor on my BC29 I am disappointed. Talked to the most respected LFS in my city and they said the Kessil was very lacking in certain spectrums and long term success with the clam would probably be iffy. Considering replacing.
Attachments
zoomonster
New member
Acclimation... really didn't touch on that. I went from 3x250w MH and 4x80w T5 to 5 kessils. I don't really remember where I started but I didn't acclimate too much maybe 65% up 80% power and i have experimented with color in the 70-80 range. Anyway no problems with most SPS acclimation and I have been at 80% peak power for months now. However I may have recently hit the tipping point for monti's. I decided to try moving to 85% (just for a few days and also repositioned lights a bit) and two large orange caps started losing color/bleaching. I have a peach digitata and it lost a little color as did a chili pepper cap. I have a pretty large bright orange branching digitata (forest fire w/o the green) and its always been a problem even when still had MH. I think the Kessil's finally did most of it in. Its in the bottom of the tank and I will be able to salvage but it lost a lot of growth. The only monti not affected is a huge purple cap (then again it does not fluoresce).
So yes I would have to agree monti's are most susceptible to Kessil's.
So yes I would have to agree monti's are most susceptible to Kessil's.
goreef170
New member
I have a question everybody>>>
I just installed 4 360we over 250 mixed reef. Man, I really love these lights, mainly the shimmer"¦when I see other tanks without the kessils, they look boring to me. The shimmer really adds that special touch. Now for the question, I like my tank on the blue side, also for the corals to pop. I have mine at 65% intensity, and 25% color. Question is , is the 25% blue ok for sps ? I know they have the Kessil Logic, so am I safe running at 25% color.
Thanks
here is a pic..
I just installed 4 360we over 250 mixed reef. Man, I really love these lights, mainly the shimmer"¦when I see other tanks without the kessils, they look boring to me
. The shimmer really adds that special touch. Now for the question, I like my tank on the blue side, also for the corals to pop. I have mine at 65% intensity, and 25% color. Question is , is the 25% blue ok for sps ? I know they have the Kessil Logic, so am I safe running at 25% color.Thanks
here is a pic..Attachments
Reefvet
New member
I discovered though that it flickers at 5%. It is pretty noticeable...in fact it Caughtmy eye immediately when I looked up. At first I thought it was the shimmer reflecting back but it is for sure the light
Also weird is the last hour it is at 5% both intensity and color. The controller says 4%. Not sure why as I don't even think that is an option
From the user's guide on the Kessil web site.
"The A360 lights are not capable of dimming down past 13%, thus even with the controller, the light will shut off at that intensity."
Similar threads
