Kessil Club

I thought that was with cheaper consumer grade equipment? They said the meter they used cost thousands of dollars

I have heard this said also (hard to get accurate par readings). I wish they would have measured pur not par on the lights they tested (usable light for corals). This is why I went Kessil cause the color spectrum stays consistent no matter where you dial in color (talked about in video). I have also heard the uv the kessils give off cannot be measured accurately. They did use a different meter than I have seen used before in the BRS video.
 
Par is par. But a significant portion of the output of the chip is in a range not detected by par meters...nor should it be, since theyre not technically photosynthetically relevant wavelengths. But otherwise the kessil lights should just technically suffer from the same weakness any light source does in the fact that they under state output in the 400-450 nm range (as well as above 650nm, planted tank folks have the same woes we do, just on the opposite end).
 
I thought that was with cheaper consumer grade equipment? They said the meter they used cost thousands of dollars


Yes it was, however from my understanding PAR is all the light energy between 400nm and 700nm. PUR (Photosynthetically Usable Radiation) looks at light energy over the same wavelengths, but only the spectrum where the chlorophyll in coral utilizes the energy. The best example is the green spectrum. Green is not very well utilized by chlorophyll - so if you had a light that only produced green light you could have very high PAR values, but very little PUR because the light can't be used for making energy by the chlorophyll very well. This is where I feel like the Kessil light shines because you can't screw up the spectrum like you can on other led fixtures (i.e. Kessil logic). So for instance you can increase par by turning up the white however the useable pur wavelength may be lacking (i.e. higher par is not necessarily better).
 
Yes it was, however from my understanding PAR is all the light energy between 400nm and 700nm. PUR (Photosynthetically Usable Radiation) looks at light energy over the same wavelengths, but only the spectrum where the chlorophyll in coral utilizes the energy. The best example is the green spectrum. Green is not very well utilized by chlorophyll - so if you had a light that only produced green light you could have very high PAR values, but very little PUR because the light can't be used for making energy by the chlorophyll very well. This is where I feel like the Kessil light shines because you can't screw up the spectrum like you can on other led fixtures (i.e. Kessil logic). So for instance you can increase par by turning up the white however the useable pur wavelength may be lacking (i.e. higher par is not necessarily better).


In the video they made it clear that higher par doesn't necessarily equal better.

Ryan also mentioned that he was initially skeptical of Kessils claims of keeping the spectrum usable by corals white the colors changed and now he's a believer based on his tests. (I'm not sure where in the video he said this, I'm on mobile and I'll try to find it later)

This is the first test that is standardized across different types of lights and is a good baseline for us to start experimenting with tuning. I'm know I learned a lot here.

Maybe we should see if they took PUR numbers for all the LEDs and if they can post the results. I'll ask in the video comments.
 
Kessil Club

Maybe we should see if they took PUR numbers for all the LEDs and if they can post the results. I'll ask in the video comments.


That would be something I would be very interested in knowing! However with the other lights wouldn't that change significantly as kessils have limited spectrum change and there are multiple adjustments/settings on other lights?
 
Whatever you do please only increase intensity once every two weeks at minimum as these lights are deceptively intense. It's taken me since May 2015 till now to get my Kessil's at 40% intensity. Mainly LPS with some softies. Slow and steady folks cannot be stressed enough.
 
Whatever you do please only increase intensity once every two weeks at minimum as these lights are deceptively intense. It's taken me since May 2015 till now to get my Kessil's at 40% intensity. Mainly LPS with some softies. Slow and steady folks cannot be stressed enough.


40% ?! What's your dimension top to bottom? Softies and lps are pretty resilient .. I'm at 85% peak. Then it drops to 75% over 4hrs period. Then ramp off.
 
40% ?! What's your dimension top to bottom? Softies and lps are pretty resilient .. I'm at 85% peak. Then it drops to 75% over 4hrs period. Then ramp off.

DSA 65 Neo 37in length 21in width 22in height. Lights approximately 10in off the water. I have two Kessil A360we's. Everyone's water chemistry is different and I've burned many corals to death with these lights. I couldn't begin to think of running that high of an intensity for a long while.
 
DSA 65 Neo 37in length 21in width 22in height. Lights approximately 10in off the water. I have two Kessil A360we's. Everyone's water chemistry is different and I've burned many corals to death with these lights. I couldn't begin to think of running that high of an intensity for a long while.

Interesting. My lfs has two 360s over a tank similar to mine but a tad smaller. 100% all day. Def don't go 100% right off da bat. But I think you can start out at 50 and increase 5% a week.

What did you burn? My lps and softies are doing great. I can't figure sps yet. But once I get mine to 95 I might try again. I just looked at some old pics and my zoa have doubled. It's great to see the growth.

And my yuma is going off right now.

I kinda like my setup now. 360 in da middle. And two 160s on the sides. The wattage is a hair under having 2 360s

Yea every setup is diff. My fastest growing zoa colony is directly under my 360
 
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What would you think of 6 A350 Tuna Blue's for a 300 gallon 96/24/30" tall? I am hoping 6 would give enough overlap to avoid shadowing. I had an opportunity to pick up 6 brand new for less then two 360's would have been. How high above the water should I mount them? I want to keep light from spilling into the room as much as pudsible. The tank will be a mixed reef with a large clam and BTA anemones.
 
Feedback on my initial settings

Feedback on my initial settings

I received my Spectral Controller today. I'm looking forward to hooking it up after work tonight. With that said I need to setup my first program and could use some feedback to my initial settings.

My tank is only 3 months old with one Clownfish and 8 coral frags (Duncan, Candy cane, Favia and Zoanthids).

7am 20% color/15% intensity
9am 40% color/35% intensity
12pm 50% color/60% intensity
2pm 75% color/75% intensity
6pm 25% color/25% intensity
9pm 50% color/0% intensity
 
I received my Spectral Controller today. I'm looking forward to hooking it up after work tonight. With that said I need to setup my first program and could use some feedback to my initial settings.

My tank is only 3 months old with one Clownfish and 8 coral frags (Duncan, Candy cane, Favia and Zoanthids).

7am 20% color/15% intensity
9am 40% color/35% intensity
12pm 50% color/60% intensity
2pm 75% color/75% intensity
6pm 25% color/25% intensity
9pm 50% color/0% intensity

looks fine, but whenever I go over about 30% color it just seems like I get more growth on the glass than anywhere else. Also, what's the reasoning for ramping back up on whites from 6pm to 9pm?

How are the corals doing?
 
What would you think of 6 A350 Tuna Blue's for a 300 gallon 96/24/30" tall? I am hoping 6 would give enough overlap to avoid shadowing. I had an opportunity to pick up 6 brand new for less then two 360's would have been. How high above the water should I mount them? I want to keep light from spilling into the room as much as pudsible. The tank will be a mixed reef with a large clam and BTA anemones.

I wouldn't get the 350 even if they are cheaper. The 360 is so much better due to controllability.
 
looks fine, but whenever I go over about 30% color it just seems like I get more growth on the glass than anywhere else. Also, what's the reasoning for ramping back up on whites from 6pm to 9pm?

How are the corals doing?

If I'm understanding the controller correctly the 25% is more blue then the 75%, which is whiter. I thought I'd increase the blue in the evening before going off. Is this incorrect?

My corals haven't been doing too good lately ( http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2542765 ) but it sounds like its because my kh is too low. I'm hoping the controller will add more control and stability to my light management.
 
looking at getting my first kessils 2 160we tuna blues. im setting up 3ft long tank that will that be a mixed reef.. is this enough lighting if I supplement it with 2 t5s to eliminate shadowing? reason for doing 160s instead of 360s is my budget of 500
 
100 Gal's sps dominated

100 Gal's sps dominated

My tank is 48''l 28''w 20"h sps dominated I got one 10x39 w ati power module, but, if I went with kessil, how many 360we should i put, or should i use 360ne i was thinking on 2 we or 3 ne, what you think?
 
just wanted to check.. Is it ok to run 2 A360we's on a light timer?
Its like a on/off switch with a clock.. I used it for my t5s earlier.

Just want to make sure that if I run without a controller.. im not going to damage the lights.
 
just wanted to check.. Is it ok to run 2 A360we's on a light timer?
Its like a on/off switch with a clock.. I used it for my t5s earlier.

Just want to make sure that if I run without a controller.. im not going to damage the lights.

That's how I run my A350w's
 
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