Kessil Club
- Thread starter Zacktosterone
- Start date
cboberg
New member
I'm currently running 2 Kessil 360WE tuna blues over my 48" 90 gal. The tank is mixed but there's a lot of SPS. I'm worried about shadowing once the sps all grows out. I've been thinking of adding a 3rd Kessil in the middle. I have a great lighting program that's been promoting growth and color that I run through my Apex. This weekend I won a Hydra 26HD at my local reef club's frag swap. Has anyone tried mixing a Hydra with the kessils or should I just sell it and get another 360we? Thoughts.... I don't know how easy it will be to Mix the lights...
WLachnit
Active member
I dont have an answer for you about mixing lights. But, I would be interested in what your Apex program looks like.
cboberg
New member
Kessil Intensity
02:00-10%
09:00-16%
10:00-35%
13:00-50%
16:00-65%
19:00-45%
21:00-32%
22:00-10%
23:59-0%
Kessil Color
02:00-0%
09:00-13%
11:00-35%
13:00-45%
16:00-50%
19:00-45%
20:00-35%
21:00-20%
23:00-10%
23:59-0%
Dawn to dusk ramp. Basically ramps up to 65% intensity and then has a little quicker ramp down. Color will never exceed 50%. I've slowly increased my 6 hour window in the middle of the intensity curve 1% a week. Getting good color and growth. I haven't burnt any coral. I probably won't exceed 75% intensity. Lights are 6-8 inches off water. Tank is a traditional 90gal.
02:00-10%
09:00-16%
10:00-35%
13:00-50%
16:00-65%
19:00-45%
21:00-32%
22:00-10%
23:59-0%
Kessil Color
02:00-0%
09:00-13%
11:00-35%
13:00-45%
16:00-50%
19:00-45%
20:00-35%
21:00-20%
23:00-10%
23:59-0%
Dawn to dusk ramp. Basically ramps up to 65% intensity and then has a little quicker ramp down. Color will never exceed 50%. I've slowly increased my 6 hour window in the middle of the intensity curve 1% a week. Getting good color and growth. I haven't burnt any coral. I probably won't exceed 75% intensity. Lights are 6-8 inches off water. Tank is a traditional 90gal.
oscargrumete61
New member
Hi i very pleased that there is one sección in this forum about this great lights so I got my brand new kessil 360WE, changing from Orbit marine led pro , so can some one give some parameters in order to set up my lights my aquarium its basically corals and just 3 fishes . Nano fusion 20 gl,
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cboberg
New member
No they don't turn on until 13% intensity so with this clock they turn on at 8am and shut off around 9:30 pm. Please note they are very similar to moonlights when they first fire up and when they ramp down....
madweazl
Member
I run a similar schedule to what cboberg posted above. On the Reef Angel, my lights come on at 11% but you can start that as the minimum so there is no phantom ramp. I have color on a two hour slope from 11% to 65% on a 12 hour photo-period. Intensity is on a parabola from 11% to 40% on the same 12 hour photo-period. I just added seven new acropora frags and have gotten rid of my LPS so this will like change in regard to intensity as some are much lower in the tank now.
My recommendation for starting out is 65% color (though I dont think it matters much) and start low in regard to intensity (I have acros 8" under the water at 40% intensity with no issues).
Can you not set a lower limit in the software so 13% is the minimum state?
oscargrumete61
New member
cboberg
New member
When I started the intensity percentage in the middle of the curve was maxed around 35-40%.... if your tank has never had LEDS acclimate your coral to them with a 1-2% increase per week. And color is more personal preference than anything. i don't like the white light so I never go above 50% color.
yeah
Member
Im running 3 kessil 360we and two 26 hydra hd on 60x24x24. Since you already have two kessil, i would put the hydra in the middle and adjust it to match the kessil.. i like the setup and plan on keeping..
Running kessil max intensity at 80% colors at 50%
Hydra 26 100% on both blue
90% uv
80% v
15% w
15% red
15 % green
yeah
Member
madweazl
Member
Picked up a Kessil H80 for the refugium. The previous lights lit up the entire stand and algae really appreciated it; maintenance on the skimmer and carbon reactor were starting to become a pain so I wanted to find a solution to cut back on this. I relocated the carbon reactor from the back wall of the refugium chamber to the return chamber of the sump and was able to lower the new light far enough to eliminate light creep into the skimmer chamber and return chamber completely while illuminating the entire refugium area (if the mount would allow it, I could drop the light four more inches and still have adequate spread). Hopefully the growth remains the same (or better) with the Kessil.
ComforablyNumb
New member
You shouldn't really need another A360we. Shading has not been a problem at all for me with my sps in my 4ft tank. See pics below and I don't use any supplemental lighting.
Here's a pic of my stylo frags when I first got them 20 months ago:
About 12 months:
About 19 months:
Pic I just took:
Any shading you may see is entirely natural for the most part. This is a healthy sps and has grown very well under just the two kessils. Adding a third wouldnt hurt of course, but the above has been my expereince with two.
Last edited:
madweazl
Member
Took some more measurements.
Notes:
1) Location 3 is centered under one light right to left but not front to back (approx 4" behind the center line front to back).
2) Locations 6 is very close to the center of the tank (left to right and front to back).
3) The lights are centered over the tank front to back and 15" apart (7.5" left and right of center).
4) The lights are mounted 5" above the water line.
5) At a depth of 15" (roughly where my sand is), there is a bit of light spillage on all viewing sides of the aquarium so the lights could be mounted closer to the water without losing coverage (would increase PAR values).
6) PAR values were measured with the clubs MQ-500 with full spectrum sensor using a correction factor of 1.32.
7) Standard 75g Marineland aquarium (48"x18" footprint).
8) Two Kessil A360WE running 65% color.
9) MP40s set to feed mode while measurements were taken.
Notes:
1) Location 3 is centered under one light right to left but not front to back (approx 4" behind the center line front to back).
2) Locations 6 is very close to the center of the tank (left to right and front to back).
3) The lights are centered over the tank front to back and 15" apart (7.5" left and right of center).
4) The lights are mounted 5" above the water line.
5) At a depth of 15" (roughly where my sand is), there is a bit of light spillage on all viewing sides of the aquarium so the lights could be mounted closer to the water without losing coverage (would increase PAR values).
6) PAR values were measured with the clubs MQ-500 with full spectrum sensor using a correction factor of 1.32.
7) Standard 75g Marineland aquarium (48"x18" footprint).
8) Two Kessil A360WE running 65% color.
9) MP40s set to feed mode while measurements were taken.
Last edited:
The correction factors are not accurate. There's other subtractions that almost cancel them out if you check there sight. Nobody else, including brs applies them to compare to others . I have same meter.Took some more measurements.
Notes:
1) Location 3 is centered under one light right to left but not front to back (approx 4" behind the center line front to back).
2) Locations 6 is very close to the center of the tank (left to right and front to back).
3) The lights are centered over the tank front to back and 15" apart (7.5" left and right of center).
4) The lights are mounted 5" above the water line.
5) At a depth of 15" (roughly where my sand is), there is a bit of light spillage on all viewing sides of the aquarium so the lights could be mounted closer to the water without losing coverage (would increase PAR values).
6) PAR values were measured with the clubs MQ-500 with full spectrum sensor using a correction factor of 1.32.
7) Standard 75g Marineland aquarium (48"x18" footprint).
8) Two Kessil A360WE running 65% color.
9) MP40s set to feed mode while measurements were taken.
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
madweazl
Member
Which subtractions are you referring to? The correction factor was sourced from Apogee's website. BRS doesn't use it because they don't use an Apogee MQ-500 to measure PAR.
Additionally, you can find Dana Riddle's review of it here using the correction factor (and provides comparison data to the Li-Cor).
Last edited:
Brs dis use it in a comparison before they discovered it has a flaw.
I'll find it for u, I've talked to apogee about it and they pretty much said just read as is.
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Similar threads
