Kick Ich Medication
- Thread starter SSpiro
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kau_cinta_ku
New member
nope, the only proven methods to treat ich are hypo, copper, and tank transfer, all need to be done in a hospital tank leaving the main tank fishless for 6-8 weeks.
BTW you must treat all fish for ich now
BTW you must treat all fish for ich now
Absolutely right, Kau. Hospital tank for all livestock with copper (which must have a test kit to measure the type of copper you use, chelated or ionic). I liked Seachem's Culpramine and their copper test. You have to run your show tank "fallow" for at least six weeks. Hyposalinity and increase in temp in the show tank will help with ich and speed up the repo cycle. Keep up with water changes in the show tank as well to get ich cysts out. I recently did this, treated QT tank with copper for three weaks, and ran show tank fallow for 8 weeks. Cured...
Don-Coraleone
New member
yeah the stuffs a gimic it really doesnt work.
I agree with Kau and bigmc....But believe it or not I used this stuff called Kordon Ich Attack once before in the middle of a last ditch effort to save some face and 9 out of 12 fish survived and haven't seen it since.....turns the water an awful brown color right at first and you have to cut the skimmer off but I dosed it religously for about a week and it worked....not sure if it was a freak of nature or what but it did...kept the boys eating with garlic and the ich attack and it subsided...wouldn't reccommend it but then again I didn't have a QT at the time and the stuff was reef safe so I said what the heck....and it worked........so if you don't have any other option what do you have to lose.....fish are going to die anyway if you don't do the standard hypo, copper, Qt standard....
sufunk
New member
I disagree with this,ime. There is a good chance fish wont die of ich without hypo, copper or qt. As long as the fish is eating and you remove the stressor that caused the ich outbreak(bully fish, bad water parameters, etc.), most times the fish can fight off the ich itself with good feedings dosed with garlic.
I have had about 5 outbreaks over the years and eat time the fish continued eating well. I dosed their food with garlic and got my parameters back in check and the ich cleared up in about a week.
Ich is by no means a death sentence and reason to freak out as long as the fish are eating. If the fish will not eat, then i would go with qt'ing with hypo or copper as suggested.
supertech3
New member
I've tried the product and the tank lost all fish except one (clown fish). It is as the others stated a gimmick. The only way that I treat now is with hyposalinity in a QT, and have had great results. I went through all the ich stages when my tank was less than a year old and now just use QT on new acquisitions.
sufunk: I agree with what you are saying. Usually before I decide things are bad enough to treat I make sure parameters are in order and I switch to new life spectrum A+ food for a while. Many times this will work for me and all outward signs of ich disappear. However, when treatment is needed, I think copper, hypo, and qt is the way to go.
rhkingsfan
New member
I posted this in another thread and it seems relevant to this one.. So:
I'm in the same spot. Got a blue hippo tang from a friend who said that the fish was quarantined, no ich. Well I can't totally blame him, but for some reason or another my blue hippo now has ich along with my green clown goby. I'll let you guys know what happens along the way, but I'm currently running the 28 watt aquamedic uv through an eheim 2213. I'm using the lowest level eheim to make sure its effective against parasites. I am feeding all my fish frozen mysis and brine that has been soaked in garlic and an omega3/amino/vitamin c solution. I am picking up 2 cleaner shrimp and will start adding a medication to the food in the form of Metronidazole (Fish Zole - per the reefkeeping article). I will also do 20% water changes every day (parameters currently 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10 nitrate, 79 degress, salinity of 1.025, calcium 520, ph 10 degrees). As long as the fish appear healthy, I will continue to do the above for 1 month and track my results. If I notice that the fish show signs of additional stress or some secondary infection, I will tear down the tank to catch everything and then use hyposalinity treatment. Cross your fingers guys, this will be an interesting month.
I'm in the same spot. Got a blue hippo tang from a friend who said that the fish was quarantined, no ich. Well I can't totally blame him, but for some reason or another my blue hippo now has ich along with my green clown goby. I'll let you guys know what happens along the way, but I'm currently running the 28 watt aquamedic uv through an eheim 2213. I'm using the lowest level eheim to make sure its effective against parasites. I am feeding all my fish frozen mysis and brine that has been soaked in garlic and an omega3/amino/vitamin c solution. I am picking up 2 cleaner shrimp and will start adding a medication to the food in the form of Metronidazole (Fish Zole - per the reefkeeping article). I will also do 20% water changes every day (parameters currently 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10 nitrate, 79 degress, salinity of 1.025, calcium 520, ph 10 degrees). As long as the fish appear healthy, I will continue to do the above for 1 month and track my results. If I notice that the fish show signs of additional stress or some secondary infection, I will tear down the tank to catch everything and then use hyposalinity treatment. Cross your fingers guys, this will be an interesting month.
From first hand painful expensive experience, WRONG! Once again, WRONG. Do NOT run hypo in the display tank; it will KILL your inverts. I knew not to run copper in display, but I didn't know not to run hypo in display. After dropping salinity to on the order of 1.013 -- 1.009 is what is called for for treating ich -- I watched over $1000 of precious corals (several of which were rare encrusting species that came in on the live rock and survived cycle) and anemones disintegrate. Subsequently, I did what I should have done a priori: I read. There are several tagged threads in the disease treatment forum that will tell you what I have just told you. Copper OR HYPO must be done in separate system without inverts.
Facts are facts. Some fish may survive cryptocaryon irriatans, many won't.and it will linger inl your tank for a longtime. To suggest that ich is not something worthy of alarm and proper treatment as well as quarantine for new fish is not good advice. Five outbreaks says it all.
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