dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
a Kalk slurry (do a search in Anthony's All Things Salty forum) a few nights a week worked wonders for my 180 when i had such a high Ca demand that i was pushing 180 b/m CO2.
kc
kc
Korallin Ca Reactor Setup Instructions
- Thread starter dragon_slayer
- Start date
dragon_slayer
In Memoriam
Been getting allot of PM's of late regarding these setup instructions so let me bump this thread up to the top for some who might not know to ask directly.
also in this thread (Click Here) you can download the setup sheets mentioned in the above instructions.
kc
also in this thread (Click Here) you can download the setup sheets mentioned in the above instructions.
kc
rismai
New member
korallin translation
korallin translation
in the instructions you sent it tells you the description for the labelled parts in german Eingang,ausgang and entluftung, my korallin reactor does not have these words in the labells what they say is auslauf,einlauf and co3, I have been trying to make the right connections with no success and hoping someone could help me!!!thank you
korallin translation
in the instructions you sent it tells you the description for the labelled parts in german Eingang,ausgang and entluftung, my korallin reactor does not have these words in the labells what they say is auslauf,einlauf and co3, I have been trying to make the right connections with no success and hoping someone could help me!!!thank you
schneijt
Premium Member
If you're noticing a drop in pH at night and want to keep it elevated, you could dose kalk at night to help keep the pH up overnight. I know some people run just kalk, some people run Ca reactor, and some people run both. It really depends on your calcium/alk needs and what you're trying to accomplish with each piece of equipment.
-Joe
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
good manuel
Roger
Roger
Last edited:
Thanks for putting together the instructions. It really helped.
I have a problem though. I dont see any bubbles in the bubble counter. Upon investigation I found out that the brass valve that sits in between the bubble counter and the Co2 cylinder, seems completely shut. That is, no hole in it to pass the Co2 to the bubble counter. I removed the brass valve and green connector that goes on top and then connected the Co2 directly on top of the bubble counter. This way I was able to make bubbles in the bubble counter.
Is this brass connector a faulty piece or is there a reason why it is designed this way that is not apparent to me?
Can I leave it the way it is right now, the Co2 directly feeding the bubble counter from the top? Or should I seek to replace the brass connector so that the CO2 is supplied from down and push it up to the bubble counter?
I have a problem though. I dont see any bubbles in the bubble counter. Upon investigation I found out that the brass valve that sits in between the bubble counter and the Co2 cylinder, seems completely shut. That is, no hole in it to pass the Co2 to the bubble counter. I removed the brass valve and green connector that goes on top and then connected the Co2 directly on top of the bubble counter. This way I was able to make bubbles in the bubble counter.
Is this brass connector a faulty piece or is there a reason why it is designed this way that is not apparent to me?
Can I leave it the way it is right now, the Co2 directly feeding the bubble counter from the top? Or should I seek to replace the brass connector so that the CO2 is supplied from down and push it up to the bubble counter?
anothermineral
New member
The brass valve is a CO2 one-way check valve. There should be an arrow on the valve showing which way it flows. The first thing I would do is check to see if it was connected correctly.
These valves do go bad (get clogged/corroded), so if it still doesn't work, you'll need to replace it. You don't necessarily need to go for the brass version. There are a few manufactures that make a decent plastic valve that you could use. I tend to keep a really cheap (3-4$) valve handy in case mine goes bad until I can replace it with a good one.
As a FYI, I've been running my 1502 for ~4 years and I'm on my third valve.
These valves protect you regulator / solenoid. I would not run the reactor for very long without one.
If you think the brass valve is clogged, you could also try soaking it in a vinegar solution overnight. That's worked for me before, by I tend to want the piece of mind of a new valve.
These valves do go bad (get clogged/corroded), so if it still doesn't work, you'll need to replace it. You don't necessarily need to go for the brass version. There are a few manufactures that make a decent plastic valve that you could use. I tend to keep a really cheap (3-4$) valve handy in case mine goes bad until I can replace it with a good one.
As a FYI, I've been running my 1502 for ~4 years and I'm on my third valve.
These valves protect you regulator / solenoid. I would not run the reactor for very long without one.
If you think the brass valve is clogged, you could also try soaking it in a vinegar solution overnight. That's worked for me before, by I tend to want the piece of mind of a new valve.
Thanks for the reply. I will soak it in vinegar and see if it works. I will also look around for another valve.
Another related question: I was testing the KH before setting up the Ca Reactor. Based on the chart, it comes to about 8.6. The Ca reactor instructions suggest that I should aim for 25 to 30 degrees KH. How do I convert the 8.6 KH to something in degrees?
Another related question: I was testing the KH before setting up the Ca Reactor. Based on the chart, it comes to about 8.6. The Ca reactor instructions suggest that I should aim for 25 to 30 degrees KH. How do I convert the 8.6 KH to something in degrees?
anothermineral
New member
Here's a link to a site that does the conversions. I would also recommend searching the web for a chart with both KH and meq/l numbers side by side for easy reference.
http://www.saltyzoo.com/SaltyCalcs/AlkConv.php
http://www.saltyzoo.com/SaltyCalcs/AlkConv.php
My brass check valve was toast when I bought my used 1502 as well. I ditched it for this one:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...ory_name=45&product_id=21096&variant_id=22296
It's been running for over a year problem-free. And at $8.51 how can you go wrong?
Your effluent Alk should be above 25dKh. They suggest a range of 30-50dKh.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...ory_name=45&product_id=21096&variant_id=22296
It's been running for over a year problem-free. And at $8.51 how can you go wrong?
Your effluent Alk should be above 25dKh. They suggest a range of 30-50dKh.
^^^ Thanks for the link. I am going to place the order right away.
Regarding the dKH, this is the kit I am using:
The results was tested against the below table:
0.00 16.0 5.71
0.02 15.7 5.60
0.04 15.4 5.49
0.06 15.0 5.37
0.08 14.7 5.26
0.10 14.4 5.14
0.12 14.1 5.03
0.14 13.8 4.91
0.16 13.4 4.80
0.18 13.1 4.69
0.20 12.8 4.57
0.22 12.5 4.46
0.24 12.2 4.34
0.26 11.8 4.23
0.28 11.5 4.11
0.30 11.2 4.00
0.32 10.9 3.89
0.34 10.6 3.77
0.36 10.2 3.66
0.38 9.9 3.54
0.40 9.6 3.43
0.42 9.3 3.31
0.44 9.0 3.20
0.46 8.6 3.09
0.48 8.3 2.97
0.50 8.0 2.86
0.52 7.7 2.74
0.54 7.4 2.63
0.56 7.0 2.51
0.58 6.7 2.40
0.60 6.4 2.29
0.62 6.1 2.17
0.64 5.8 2.06
0.66 5.4 1.94
0.68 5.1 1.83
0.70 4.8 1.71
0.72 4.5 1.60
0.74 4.2 1.49
0.76 3.8 1.37
0.78 3.5 1.26
0.80 3.2 1.14
0.82 2.9 1.03
0.84 2.6 0.91
0.86 2.2 0.80
0.88 1.9 0.69
0.90 1.6 0.57
0.92 1.3 0.46
0.94 1.0 0.34
0.96 0.6 0.23
I dont see anything in the range of 25 dkh in the above table. I also checked the link that anothermineral had posted. That calculator did not give me a number in 25-30 range either.
Either I am using the wrong test kit or something else.
Pl. help!
Regarding the dKH, this is the kit I am using:
The results was tested against the below table:
0.00 16.0 5.71
0.02 15.7 5.60
0.04 15.4 5.49
0.06 15.0 5.37
0.08 14.7 5.26
0.10 14.4 5.14
0.12 14.1 5.03
0.14 13.8 4.91
0.16 13.4 4.80
0.18 13.1 4.69
0.20 12.8 4.57
0.22 12.5 4.46
0.24 12.2 4.34
0.26 11.8 4.23
0.28 11.5 4.11
0.30 11.2 4.00
0.32 10.9 3.89
0.34 10.6 3.77
0.36 10.2 3.66
0.38 9.9 3.54
0.40 9.6 3.43
0.42 9.3 3.31
0.44 9.0 3.20
0.46 8.6 3.09
0.48 8.3 2.97
0.50 8.0 2.86
0.52 7.7 2.74
0.54 7.4 2.63
0.56 7.0 2.51
0.58 6.7 2.40
0.60 6.4 2.29
0.62 6.1 2.17
0.64 5.8 2.06
0.66 5.4 1.94
0.68 5.1 1.83
0.70 4.8 1.71
0.72 4.5 1.60
0.74 4.2 1.49
0.76 3.8 1.37
0.78 3.5 1.26
0.80 3.2 1.14
0.82 2.9 1.03
0.84 2.6 0.91
0.86 2.2 0.80
0.88 1.9 0.69
0.90 1.6 0.57
0.92 1.3 0.46
0.94 1.0 0.34
0.96 0.6 0.23
I dont see anything in the range of 25 dkh in the above table. I also checked the link that anothermineral had posted. That calculator did not give me a number in 25-30 range either.
Either I am using the wrong test kit or something else.
Pl. help!
No. You're using the right kit. You need to dilute your effluent test sample. Since we're expecting something under 50dKh, start with a 1:4 dilution (mix 1ml sample with 3ml RODI water to get your 4ml for the test). Test as usual and then multiply the dKh you observe by 4.
Ok, I took the reading from the tank and it came to 0.8. Going by the chart above, dkh reads 3.2 which means
3.2 times 4 is 12.8 dkh. This is new tank about three weeks old.
I tested the effluent with 10 bubbles per min & 40 drips per minute from output #1. It read 0.54. As per the chart it 7.4 times 4, it is 32 dkh.
Am I on the right track?
3.2 times 4 is 12.8 dkh. This is new tank about three weeks old.
I tested the effluent with 10 bubbles per min & 40 drips per minute from output #1. It read 0.54. As per the chart it 7.4 times 4, it is 32 dkh.
Am I on the right track?
