Korallin Calcium Reactor

[ShallowWaters]

The way I connected it I use a thread tap to cut threads into the PH outlet insert (The tube where you mount the directional fan piece) and then threaded a 1/4" John Guest quick connector.
Using the MJ you may not need the larger Eheim.
I have not had experience with the valves that come with the reactor. Being ball valves I would have replaced them with needle valves anyhow.

ENjoy!

Thanks jdieck. Your installation tip is really helpful. I would prefer not to add another pump, but I run high pressure in my return line and I am not comfortable with the connecting my reactor directly to it.

 

[jdieck]

I have a question. How often do you replace your media in your reactor?

In reality I never replace it, I top it off a couple of times then on the third I empty it, give it a quick rinse to remove the mud that has formed, refill it to the reactor and top off whatever is missing.

 

[Jas0863]

I added a second chamber to my 1502 reactor and I reversed my drips. That is, the rate coming from the second chamber is about 40 dpm, while the primary chamber is about 10dpm. The second chamber comes off the top(vent) of 1502. Has anyone added a second chamber to theirs?

 

[jdieck]

I have a second chamber and tested it with a third!. I think what you did will help increase the capacity and/or reduce the effect on the PH.

 

[wwanthony]

Effluent output to Skimmer

Effluent output to Skimmer

Team,

I have an AquaC 400 skimmer and I want output my effluent into the JGuest fitting the comes standard with the skimmer.

My problem is given the drip rate (around 40 DPM) the reactor seems to stop dripping when installed on the skimmer. I am feeding the reactor with a tee off my return. The tubing from my return to the input on the reactor is about 4 feet long upward. Am I not getting enough pressure in the reactor? If I drain the effluent (outlet #2) into a cup, no problem. The tubing from the reactor to the skimmer is about 7" and slightly downhill.

Anyone else feeding output#2 into a skimmer? Any ideas?

Wendell

 

[jdieck]

I think that the pressure inside the skimmer may be crating a back pressure in the reactor, in addition connecting it at the Ozone fitting directly makes it difficult to measure the amount of effluent unless you have a flow meter for the effluent installed. Can you just drip the effluent close to the water inlet suction of the skimmer pump? I think that shall be enough to take most of the effluent into the skimmer.

 

[wwanthony]

Hum.....I thought so....

Yea, I can do that but I will have to move the reactor. It is located in a closet (next to the skimmer) behind the tank. The pump that feeds the skimmer is under the tank with the sump.

Other thoughts?

 

[jdieck]

The next simpler solution will be to leave the reactor were it is and just extend the effluent tubing to the sump were the pump is. Other than that you need to install a valve after the T in the return line to restric the flow to the tank return outlet to increase the pressure to the reactor which I would not recomend given the loss of return flow to the tank. You can also try to T off from the skimmer pump rather than the return but again you may need to reduce the flow to the skimmer in this case.

 

[mikeatjac]

I have set mine up just as the instructions said. I can't get the bubbles count to remain at a constant level. I even replaced the needle valve. Any ideas. PSI at 15, drops 45 per minute. Bubbles 10 per minutes but it will graually drop to 3 bubbles a minute.

 

[jdieck]

I have set mine up just as the instructions said. I can't get the bubbles count to remain at a constant level. I even replaced the needle valve. Any ideas. PSI at 15, drops 45 per minute. Bubbles 10 per minutes but it will graually drop to 3 bubbles a minute.

10 BPM is something the low end single stage regulators we use have trouble handling so regulator output pressure cycling and also changes in temperature often do that so at certain times of the day it drops and then increase. Try increasing the regulator output to 20 psi, then to 25 psi.

 

[mikeatjac]

OK works at 20PSI but is the needle valve that touchy? Move it a hair and I mean a hair for changes?

Thanks

 

[jdieck]

OK works at 20PSI but is the needle valve that touchy? Move it a hair and I mean a hair for changes?

Thanks

Yes, that is what makes it very sensitive to small temperature changes. Any minute expansion or contraction of the needle makes for a change in the BPM. That will be resolved if the regulators were aboe to constantly maintain 10 psi or less but for that a more expensive two stage regulator is required.

 

[mikeatjac]

Does anyone know where I can get a needle valve that is not so touchy. It takes a long time to get my bubble count on target. I have a PM regulator and replaced the needle valve once in hopes of getting one that is better.
The reactor is working great once but I dread the day I have to make another adjustment.

 

[gregr]

if you read way back on page 1,954 of this awesome thread... you would've seen this
link
i bookmarked it- that's why i had it handy
Greg

 

[mikeatjac]

Thank's Greg, this is just what I need to know. This is an awesome thread. I have read it couple of times but I just cannot remember it all.

 

[gregr]

i know what you mean- that's why i had that bookmarked... found myself going thru 4.689 pages to find that link :lol:

 

[jdieck]

OK I think you were asking about CO2 needle valves rather than effluent needle valves.
First to note is that given changes in temperature and the fact that we use single stage regulators that have a lot of difficulty maintaining constant pressure at the range of 0 to 25 psi most if not all valves will have variations in flow.
You can look for a better metering valve. The best around is the HR series from Parker. Look for the HR-1 which will cost you about $60.00
http://www.parker.com/icd/cat/english/4170-HR.pdf
Another alternative is to stop counting bubbles. For that you need a flow meter which make it easy to reset when the flow changes. The recomended one is the dwyer model RMA-151 SSV with stainless steel needle valve that will cost you around $50.00
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesRMPrice.cfm#CRA

For a potential and inovative solution there is one alternative. Model airplane engines use a high precision needle valve for adjusting the fuel air mixture. You can use one of these valves which will cost between 10 and $20.00 unfortunately you will need to do some adaptations to be able to connect it to the line.
You can get them from most radio control airplane hobby shop. Ask for a valve for an engine of 0.30 cu inch or smaller. Look for a valve that will require the least adaptations.

Good Luck!

 

[KH971]

How does anyone prevent small pieces of media from floating up into the pump or going through and clogging the pinch flow control valves on the output lines? This is my only problem!!!

 

[KH971]

How does anyone prevent small pieces of media from floating up into the pump or going through and clogging the pinch flow control valves on the output lines? This is my only problem!!!

 

[dragon_slayer]

I've never encountered that problem and I've used some very fine media sizes and always try to get a 'fluidazation' in my reactors media.

kc