Korallin Calcium Reactor

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jeffchapman86 said:
Thank you for that helpful reminder not to go cheap! It seems that quality equipment always pays for itself in the long run. Would you reccomend the m3 regulator?
http://www.marine-monsters.com/front/products/co2_regulator.html

FWIW: I gave up on the M3 setup, went to the local welding supply shop and purchased a Victor model HRF2480-320 CO2 Flowmeter
I set the bubble rate on 3/24/03 and have not touched it since
The M3 drove me to drink :rollface:
 
gdm42001 said:
FWIW: I gave up on the M3 setup, went to the local welding supply shop and purchased a Victor model HRF2480-320 CO2 Flowmeter
I set the bubble rate on 3/24/03 and have not touched it since
The M3 drove me to drink :rollface:

This regulator shall perform well just for safety note that the discharge set pressure on this one is 80 psi. In case you have a plug in the effluent line, this amount of pressure will be transfered to the reactor.
 
I found a dual gauge regulator that originally came from a nitrogen tank. Had AirGas change the fitting to fit a CO2 tank, and it works great. Set it and forget it.
 
Dragonslayer, what is a good flow rate? What should i be looking for in a heavily populated sps tank 150 gallons?
Bubbles per min?
KH of output?
Drips per min from top output?
Drips per min from tube that goes to the bottom?
Sorry I can't remember the names of the outputs. I want to get a good fluidization!!!
 
KH971 said:
Dragonslayer, what is a good flow rate? What should i be looking for in a heavily populated sps tank 150 gallons?
Bubbles per min?
KH of output?
Drips per min from top output?
Drips per min from tube that goes to the bottom?
Sorry I can't remember the names of the outputs. I want to get a good fluidization!!!
Not to step in before Dragon_slayer has a chance to reply, but on my heavily stocked 150 I have the following specs from my reactor.
CO2 = 40 bpm
Top effluent = 3 to 5 drops per minute
Regular Effluent = 25 ml/pm (I don't count drops)
Effluent pH = 6.8

I only checked my effluent alk when first setting up, and I think it was around 35 dhk. I'm using ARM media which melts fast but seems to work really well. My tank stays around 450-470 Ca and 10 Alk even with my overload of SPS and clams. I only suppliment with a tsp of kalk per week and bi-weekly 10% water changes. The reactor media lasts me 3 months.
 
on any and all CaCO3/CO2 reactors and on any and all systems the settings will Always be different for each system. the only way to know what Your settings are to be is by daily testing of your tanks dKH levels and adjusting the reactor to keep them constant. in doing so you need to keep your reactors pH in a range that matches the media you are using in it for optimal CO2 usage, but..............

by adjusting your drip rate and CO2 count to achieve different (higher) levels of pH inside the reactor it's still possible to get the same desired buffers to your tank at different pH levels in the reactor (to an extent) but CO2 usage can/will not be optimal at varied settings. this is particularly helpful on systems that have lower then average pH prior to adding a reactor.

if that last part isn't understandable to you just disregard that, it's quite a lengthy explanation to try and make it layman terms. :)

kc
 
mikeatjac said:
How does a flowmeter work?

There are different types. Some have a little padwheel that rotates pushed by the flow inside and the wheel is geared to a counter which is proportional to the speed of the flow. Others take advantage of a pressure drop across a calibrated orifice plate. The higher the flow the higher the pressure drop between the inlet side and the outlet side of the plate. The difference in pressure is proportional to the flow inside. Some others are a bit more complicated, they can use a "pitot" tube that by measuring the diference in pressure between an orifice at the tip of the tube and an orifice in the side of the tube. Some others use ultrasound waves that measure the density of the fluid passing thru and so on. Ultimately the ones more suitable for our purpose because they can measure smaller flows work by having the flow float a calibrated bid inside a calibrated section of transparent pipe. The higher the flow the higher the bid rises. To achieve a measurment of increased flow the internal diameter of the flowmeter "Pipe" increases with the height thus allowing more flow between the bid and the flowmeter tube walls as the bid rises.
Another feature of float flowmeters is that by changing the weight of the bid or it's diameter you can change the measuring range.
Now this is for the flowmeter itself.
A flowmeter regulator is just a gas pressure regulator with an installed flowmeter in the outlet, the only difference is that the discharge pressure of the regulator has to be fixed to a set pressure in order for it to match the calibration of the flowmeter.
Note that although you do not need a needle valve, you need to add a solenoid valve if a controller is to be used.

Hope this helps.
Jose
weldingdirect_1867_17107313
 
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crazzyreefer said:
is there a valve and controller that can be used in conjuction with a flow metter?

Sure, any PH controller will do and you can buy and install the solenoid separately. For an economical solenoid go to
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Look for item no. 79994K55 and specify 120 VAC coil
If you like to get fancier then try the AB assembly:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...OD&Product_Code=AM-73007&Category_Code=cparts

The linked solenoids are rated for a maximum of 85 psi while the set point of the previous regulator flowmeter is 80 psi. I would feel more confortable with a flowmeter regulator with a lower pressure set point like the Victor HRF 2425 (25 psi) to insure the solenoid opens and closes properly.
http://store.cyberweld.com/vihrf24refl.html

Note that the victor regulator flow range is from around 10 to 40 standard cubic feet per hour and our consumption rate ranges from about 0.05 to 0.1 SCFH so although the flow will be somehow stable the reading if any will be barely noticeable in the meter. May be "gdm42001" can tell us more how is the reading in the flowmeter.

One of these days when I have some more time and some cash I would try what I consider could be the optimal combination. Other than matching connectors, I think the following will work perfectly for asabout $250 to $300

a) Regulator: Harris Model GP402-50-320 Two stage with pressure range 0 to 30 psi for flow stability at very low pressure (5 to 10 psi) About $150.00.
Working at a stable low pressure will make flow regulation easier as the needle valve will not be so extremely sensitive.
http://www.labregulator.com/co2_incubator.htm

b) Needle valve: Parker HR1 with calibrated metering hand knob. About $60.00 to $80.00
http://www.parker.com/icd/cat/english/4170-HR.pdf

c) Solenoid valve: (See above) $ 35.00

d) Flowmeter: Dwyer Instruments RMA 151 SS $35.00
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesRMPrice.cfm#CRA

Enjoy!
 
I just (last night) hooked up this EXACT Korallin 1502-c model. I am NOW questioning this absurd investment vs. the bargin priced Kalkwasser drip doser I was using.

I paid over 800.00 US for the complete deluxe package ( Korallin 1502-c Calcium reactor, ARM media, Eheim main pump, optional smaller pre pump and pre pumpn (leaked and tossed) filter, Co2 tank, Co2 Gauges and optional American Marine pinpoint Ph probe and controller) online from Marinedepot.com.
After 4 hours of assembly (looking at the assembled Graphic, and trying to decifer the German metric measures to standard English measures) and another 4 hours trying to get the 2 seperate "__'gangs" outlet drips/Co2 bubble count accurate and in sync. Sheesh! I never even attempted trying to get the Co2 gauges to 15-20 PSI that was suggested in the Co2 Deluxe gauges owners manual. Frustrated as hell, I waited until I could get expert advice the next morning.
I called my seller, asking the helpfull staff of Marinedepot.com to try and get someone knowledgeable enough to walk me through the initial setup of the calibration process and "Rodney" said he was able to do that for me. He asked my name and Email address and like "MAGIC, " I had mail. Finally, expert help for my ignorance of forgetting the Metric system and also my lack of understanding the German language.
I downloaded the attachment and printed it out. Laid on the floor and got comfortable and then started to read.......................THE VERY SAME SET UP INSTRUCTIONS THAT I SPENT HOURS ON TRYING TO MAKE SENSE OF A DAY EARLIER!!!!.
Honest to God this happened.
I then called American Marine who makes the Ph controller and spoke to an Expert named "Lou" who professionally guided me and educated me on calibrating the set points of my "range and center" settings. I will sift through the other posts tomorrow.
 
crazzyreefer said:
do the make a variable flow air valve that can be controlled in increments?
Do not understand the question. Are you referring to a regulator flowmeter with increments?
If so, in the regulator flowmeter you adjust the flow with a needle valve, same as other standard regulators but the valve is in the flowmeter.
 
jdieck said:
May be "gdm42001" can tell us more how is the reading in the flowmeter.


jdieck:
The flowmeter is useless in this application; its first reading is at 10 cubic feet an hour. I bought it because,

1) It is a stable regulator
2) It has a precision needle valve attached

After all, Victor does this for a living. You need a good regulator you go to someone who does this as a primary occupation.

By the way Jdieck, great list of alternate suppliers, industry has been doing the things we try to accomplish for many years (control, Ph, the flow of gases etc.) we are not restricted to aquarium suppliers to get these things done. In a previous job, I was a buyer for the Geysers Geothermal Power Plant. McMaster Carr, Dwyer, Parker fittings, Airgas, etc. were all vendors I purchased from.
I think sometimes we get stuck on buying from Aquarium suppliers, and therefore paying a premium for items that are already out there and proven in industrial settings.

My $75 Victor regulator came with a precision needle valve, which will cost you an extra $20 after buying your Deluxe (made in China) regulator for $144 from an aquarium supplier. I set my bubble rate when I purchased the Victor, and have not had to adjust it since.:rollface:
 
if you read way back on page 1,954 of this awesome thread... you would've seen this

Thanks, Greg. But I still need more help. Which item number is the one I want?

I got one of the the pinch valves from Marine Depot, which seems to work pretty well. Are these better?
 
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