Korallin Calcium Reactor

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gdm42001 said:
jdieck:
The flowmeter is useless in this application; its first reading is at 10 cubic feet an hour. I bought it because,

1) It is a stable regulator
2) It has a precision needle valve attached

After all, Victor does this for a living. You need a good regulator you go to someone who does this as a primary occupation.

Guy:
Thanks for the note, I tought that much about a flowmeter with such a high range but was not that sure.
 
I replaced my brass check valve with an 18.00 plastic one on marine depot and now I can control by bubbles with ease.

Great idea reefkeeps.
 
I replaced my brass check valve with an 18.00 plastic one on marine depot and now I can control by bubbles with ease.

Great idea reefkeeps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6227919#post6227919 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dag
Jose,

Do I want the 1/4" FNPT x 1/4" FNPT? If so, the PP valve or the PVC valve?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=15615&product_id=15616

Thanks.

Material wise Polypropylene and PVC they are both salt water compatible, PVC is a bit cheaper.
Regarding the connection it depends on what you are using for the effluent. If you are using 1/4" flex hose I would get the barbed one and if you are using the 1/4 tubing (Like the one in the RO/DI units) I would use the 1/4" OD John Guest push in quick connector.
You can get the 1/4" Female threaded NPT ones but then you will need an adaptor from the 1/4"FNPT to whatever you are using as a hose.
 
I'm using whatever tubing the unit came with, which seems to me to be standard airline tubing. Does that mean I want the barbed one?
 
You may need to replace the tubing as typical airline tubing is a small 3/16" diameter which will be difficul to insert into a 1/4" barb. You can use flexible vinyll hose 1/4" then you can buy the 1/4" barbed one.
 
they average 10 psi roughly. all my needle valves aren't exactly alike so the pressure is different on each to best match how the needle valve works best.

kc
 
Now that I am back home, I have setup my reactor...maybe.

I purchased an American Marine PH Controller because I could not get the bpm and drip rates set consistantly. I set the drips to a "broken stream" and the bpm to about 20. Using these settings, the tank dkh was 11.8 with ph of 8.1. Everything seemed to be goin fine until this evening.

I noticed the chamber had backed up with CO2 preventing the eheim pump from circulating. The aqualifter pump also is no longer working properly. Its output is about 1 drip per minute. This pump mybe part of my original problems.

Two questions: How can I evacuate the built up CO2? How do I connect a MJ to the input? Is there a fitting? Something easy to setup not requiring taping the output of the MJ?Will this piece work? http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1114

This is the most unsatisfying $700 dollars I have ever spent, aside from taxes.

Thanks, Chris
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6293830#post6293830 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdraughon
Two questions: How can I evacuate the built up CO2? How do I connect a MJ to the input? Is there a fitting? Something easy to setup not requiring taping the output of the MJ?Will this piece work? http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=LL1114
Thanks, Chris

Try using the effluent output that comes from the top of the chamber rather than the other one. this way any potential CO2 accumulation will be released with the effluent.
For connecting the powerhead there could be many ways, take it with you to your hardware store and look around. I am sure you will find something that could work even a series of different diameter pieces of hose one inside the other could work.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6293830#post6293830 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdraughon
This is the most unsatisfying $700 dollars I have ever spent, aside from taxes.
I love the reference to taxes.. :lol:
 
Thanks Jose. I tried closing the main output and opening the one on top. No change. I think the aqualifter is casuing the problem. Its output is very low, and the internal pressure of the reactor is pushing back on the pump.

Is there another way to evacuate the reactor?

edited: I got the CO2 out the top output. It took a while. We'll see what happens.

I heard it warmed up a little up there :)
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6294300#post6294300 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cdraughon

I heard it warmed up a little up there :)
Some in Chicago but I have been in Ohio this week freezing my butt.
 
What a great thread! Thank god a UK marine forum member pointed me in this direction.

I've just opened the box of a korallin 1501 CA reactor, co2 bottle and guages and have it spread out over the floor of my living room. Hopefully this thread will be a great help to me (once I've read through it completely!) in putting all the bits together and setting it up. I'm a complete beginner to calcium reactors having dosed kalk for the past 2 years but with 5 clams and quite a few SPS I think this is the way forward for me.

cheers, I'm pretty sure I'll be asking a few questions when I get round to putting it all together.

Mark :)
 
All piped up now and running, apart from making a mistake using RO tubing for the CO2 which sprung a leak, I think everything is ok. I put a reducing T piece on a powerhead to the calcium reactor pump as advised but if it's only for extra push, I don't think it needs it, even though it's being pumped up 3 foot to the tank. The pump that comes with the reactor is a 600lph eheim. Is there any other reason for an additional pump to be used?

Not running any CO2 through it yet, I'll run it untill tomorrow night then start playing with the gas!

cheers,

Mark
 
The recirculation pump is the eheim, the second pump is to feed the reactor. In some instances the recirculation pump is enough to create suction for feeding but the reactor and effluent outlet needs to be at the same level as the sump.
 
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