Korallin Calcium Reactor

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all you need to do is monitor the pH of the effluent when your setting up the reactor and weekly there after, anyone who uses a controller to actually control the CO2 rate rather then as a safety measure is just plain ignorant. it takes very little time to set up a reactor the proper way and once done a controller will never turn off the CO2 unless you have a fault somewhere.

relying on the controller rather then proper adjustments is putting the life of your tank on your hopes that the controller or solenoid will never fail, and belive me one or the other will eventually fail, I've seen way to many people come crying about it after the fact, which at that time it's to late so all i can do is say "I told ya so"

kc
 
KC,
Do you think its worth it to invest in a PH controller or even another PH monitor? So your saying that I only need to monitor the effluent of the reactor while I am setting it up and then after its all calibrated it will stay at the level I set and not fluctuate? The problem I have now is keeping the bubble and drips constant. I just set up the reactor yesterday so maybe it needs to break in. Also, I was doing around 10 bpm and 44 dpm and my PH stayed steady at ~ 6.70 then a few hours later I checked on it and rates were about the same but PH went down to 6.30. Do you know why that happened? Thanks...

- Jeremy
 
dragon_slayer said:
... and once done a controller will never turn off the CO2 unless you have a fault somewhere.
kc

I have a hard time achieving this. Right now the controller is set at 6.5. PH goes below this and shuts off the CO2. Any suggestions? DPM is ~65 and BPM is ~40. (It's a 180g tank with about 40g in sump & remote fuge).

Thanks,

Jim
 
What a treasure of great information this is. I think I have enough knowledge to begin to set my reactor up now.

Dragon_Slayer can you comment on the size/type of pump that should be used to supply the reactor. I thought I read in here that a pressure releaf or "T" was suggested???

I could be very confused but I, like everyone else, surely appreciate the time and effort you put into writing specific instructions for the reactor set up.
 
dragon_slayer said:

relying on the controller rather then proper adjustments is putting the life of your tank on your hopes that the controller or solenoid will never fail, and belive me one or the other will eventually fail, I've seen way to many people come crying about it after the fact, which at that time it's to late so all i can do is say "I told ya so"

kc

While I don't dis-agree with what you're saying, I would offer if you get the bubble count close rather than letting it go wild while it's on, any type of failure would take several days to manifest itself via effects on the tank. These are the types of equipment I check in the morning, when I get home from work, and before I go to bed (my sump is in the basement below my tank).

(hopen I dont hear those words)
Seeker
 
Originally posted by LunarCubes
KC,
Do you think its worth it to invest in a PH controller or even another PH monitor?


No, if you have a monitor allready thats all you need. unless your just to lazy to move the monitor back and forth when you want to read the tank or effluent one is more then plenty, i've got only a single monitor and i've got 7 systems up and going and with everything properly adjusted out, i only check things once a week or so.

So your saying that I only need to monitor the effluent of the reactor while I am setting it up and then after its all calibrated it will stay at the level I set and not fluctuate?

if your reactor/CO2 equipment/feed pump are all in working order, yes. if you have cheap CO2 equip your bubble count will never stay constant so a controller is a wise investment and then do as seeker said set the bubble high but close and let the controller do its thing and hope for the best.

The problem I have now is keeping the bubble and drips constant. I just set up the reactor yesterday so maybe it needs to break in. Also, I was doing around 10 bpm and 44 dpm and my PH stayed steady at ~ 6.70 then a few hours later I checked on it and rates were about the same but PH went down to 6.30. Do you know why that happened? Thanks...

all of the above is your trying to get in to big of a hurry, you cant make adjustments and expect to see the finish results right them, it takes a few hours for everything to settle in at what you just adjusted it out at. be patient, it will save you a ton of frustration. go back and read the setup instructions and it explains it all step by step.


Originally posted by jimsar
I have a hard time achieving this. Right now the controller is set at 6.5. PH goes below this and shuts off the CO2. Any suggestions?

lower the BPM rate, this will keep the pH from dropping to the cut off point but 6.5 is a mid range setting depending on which media your using, if it's ARM then thats to low, if it's a German media, that really to high it should be around 6.0-6.2.

Originally posted by MikeSheridan
Dragon_Slayer can you comment on the size/type of pump that should be used to supply the reactor. I thought I read in here that a pressure releaf or "T" was suggested???

any pump that will provide more input to the reactor then your letting out via the effluent drip. you want the reactor to be pressurized to an extent, but you dont want a 1200gph pump directly connected to the reactor. i use mid sized power heads to feed my reactors with a gate valve to adjust the back pressure that is forced into the reactor feed lines. a T off the return pump will work, but it needs to be as close to the pump as practical or you'll loose any pressure the pump produces.


I could be very confused but I, like everyone else, surely appreciate the time and effort you put into writing specific instructions for the reactor set up.


Thanks, it's the appreciation that makes it all worth the while.

kc
 
I am using the Korallin media with my reactor and I was wondering what the acceptable range the effluents PH should be. I recall you saying something about german media needs the PH lower to dissolve. My PH has been staying at around 6.4. Is that good? I just want to be sure...

- Jeremy
 
LunarCubes said:
I am using the Korallin media with my reactor and I was wondering what the acceptable range the effluents PH should be. I recall you saying something about german media needs the PH lower to dissolve. My PH has been staying at around 6.4. Is that good? I just want to be sure...

- Jeremy

6 to 6.5 are the range required by the German media and your in that range so your in the good ;) the reason for the required lower pH is due to a more pure form of CaCO3 (has less undesirables in it such as PO4)

kc
 
Wow! I just want to say that after reading this thread and following Dragon_Slayer's instructions, my reactor is up and running perfectly! Couldn't have done it without your help Dragon_Slayer.

Thanks

One quick question. My reactor came with JBJ gages. I think they are inferior. The gages do not seem to be reading correctly and the needle valve has to be almost forced closed to get the bubble coiunt at six/min. Do you have a better recommendation?

Thanks once again!
 
Couldn't have done it without your help Dragon_Slayer.

Thanks


:thumbsup: Glad to help.



One quick question. My reactor came with JBJ gages. I think they are inferior. The gages do not seem to be reading correctly and the needle valve has to be almost forced closed to get the bubble coiunt at six/min. Do you have a better recommendation?

Thanks once again!


M3 regulators are my prefered choice, but any regulator will work with a top quality metering valve (read as $$$ needle valve)

kc
 
Thanks for your help KC. I have been running my reactor for about a week now and here are the readings...

Effluent
PH = 6.37
Alk = 50.56 dkh

Tank
PH = 8.35*
Alk = 10.9 dkh
CA = 350

DPM = 90
BPM = 22

*PH was measured with PH Monitor. I thought it was a bit high so I decided to test it with my Aquarium Systems test kit and it read ~8.3. I then tested it with my salifert kit and it was ~8.1. The guy I got my salifert test kits from said the PH kit was a piece of **** so I dunno what to go by here.

Other then that, does everything look good? I was just curious if all this testing and setting drip counts is a one time thing? In several months when the media needs to be changed, will I just change the media and it will be all set from before or will everything need to be adjusted again? Is there any way to get an idea of what the Alk is through the PH monitor? Is there any way to tell when the media needs to be changed by using the PH monitor?

Thanks again,
Jeremy
 
Way back on about page 2 if memory serves me you'll find a detailed explanation of what occurse after the drip rate is initialy set to match the demands of your tank and how it needs to be readjusted later as the tank (corals/coralline) grows. it also explains how to tell when the media needs to be changed rather then the reactor out of adjustment.

to answer your other question, yes everything looks good as long as it's matching your tanks demands and not pushing levels up or allowing them to drop.

Is there any way to get an idea of what the Alk is through the PH monitor?

Nope, not at all. Alk is your tank waters ability to depress a change in pH to a lower setting (it's not a buffer as so often stated) it has no relation to pH other then that but pH can cause problems with Alk under certian conditions.


Is there any way to tell when the media needs to be changed by using the PH monitor?


No, the media will just exaust it's self and the pH will remain what ever the CO2 has it set at, you'll never notice a change in pH from the media depleation. (page 2 will tell you when you will know though)

kc
 
KC,
Everything has going fine until a little while ago. I checked on the reactor and the water level was lower then normal and no water was dripping from the normal output. I think it has something to do with the no more dissolvable CO2 safety feature thingy. I opened the top output and got the reactor to fill but still no drips from the normal output (I believe its called output #1). I can get water to flow fine out of output #2 so should I just use that? Are there any drawbacks to using only output #2? How do I get water dripping back out from output #1 again? I have read the instructions but found nothing usefull about this problem...

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
if your not getting an output from the #1 then most likely when the CO2 build up caused the bubble in the top of the reactor it broke the flow of the recirculation pump as well and it's calvitating.

check that the pump is pumping and you should get an output, if not find out why.

kc
 
I adjusted the pinch valve and got it to drip. I dunno why things changed after that safety feature kicked in? Do you have any idea why that would happen?
 
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