Korallin Calcium Reactor

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have my CO2 line looped to the ceiling in order to create backpressure. That makes it impossible to keep the check valve close to the cylinder.
 
i don't see what that has to do with where the check valve is placed, all you need to do is splice it into the line just after the regulator and then run your 'loop' to the ceiling and then the bubble counter.

kc
 
You're right, except there's a nice holder on the Korallin reactor for the check valve. If I move the check valve toward the cylinder, I won't be able to use that check valve (which would make it difficult to keep the check valve in a vertical position).
 
Dag said:
You're right, except there's a nice holder on the Korallin reactor for the check valve. If I move the check valve toward the cylinder, I won't be able to use that check valve (which would make it difficult to keep the check valve in a vertical position).

Do check valves need to be in a vertical position?
 
RedEyeReef said:
Do check valves need to be in a vertical position?

Some checkvalves perform better when installed vertical but most check valves used for CO2 service are spring loaded which makes it applicable for any position.
More important than the check valve is to try to avoid two things.
a) Reactor back pressure into the regulator
b) Regulator installed at a lower level than the reactor

Most if not all of the time, the pressure of the CO2 will be larger than the pressure in the reactor except in two instances:
a) When the CO2 is empty
b) When the CO2 Cylinder is being replaced.

so In theory you can install a small valve on the CO2 line that you can close when replacing the cylinder but you can not let the cylinder get totally empty.

I would not worry much about the valve installed vertical unless it is not spring loaded (valve uses floating diaphragm) which in that case I would install it vertical with the output pointing up.
Now how difficult will it be to install the valve vertical even if it is closer to the regulator?
You shall try to modify the installation. Remember that all check valves to seal properly require some amount of reverse flow and back pressure to close. If the distance between the delivery point and the valve is too short, water may backflow into the valve until the back pressure builds up to the point it closes. Having that additional lenght of line will allow come water back into the hose before the valve closes but with enough distance not for it to reach the valve.
 
alright guys, i have steady state.

bubbles at 15 per min for the past two days
drops 45 per minute combined. i added a pediatric iv tubing to the faster line to help control the drip rate so it works very well now...

i checked the effluent today and using the 1 cc of effluent, 1 drop of indicator, i still needed 1.8 cc's of reagent.
this times 32 would indicate a dkh of 57, which would at least be reasonable...

my tank dkh was 8.4
calcium was 460


how much calcium is too much calcium?

should i add some baking soda to bring up the dkh to around 10ish?

(does anyone here test for iodine and strontium, just because there is a test available for it?)
 
You do not need to test for Iodine or Strontium and even if you do the tests are not really accurate.
If you have an stable alkalinity already then adjust with baking soda. otherwise keep adjusting the reactor until the alkalinity is stable and then adjust with soda.

Calicum seems to be OK anywhere between 380 to 500 but IMO the optimal will be between 400 and 450.
Note that if you are using a high Calcium content salt like Oceanic plus a balanced addition like a reactor you will always have high calcium as the balanced adition will prevent it to drop.
 
More important than the check valve is to try to avoid two things.
a) Reactor back pressure into the regulator

What about when the solenoid closes? Do that create back pressure into the regulator (or at least into the solenoid)? That would seem to be unavoidable.

Where can I find those spring loaded check valves? Are they good?

What's the point of this quote? Is it the benefit of keeping the valve far from the reactor and close to the cylinder:

If the distance between the delivery point and the valve is too short, water may backflow into the valve until the back pressure builds up to the point it closes. Having that additional lenght of line will allow come water back into the hose before the valve closes but with enough distance not for it to reach the valve.

What's the "delivery point," the reactor?
 
Dag said:
What about when the solenoid closes? Do that create back pressure into the regulator (or at least into the solenoid)? That would seem to be unavoidable.
It is less likely as the solenoid closes when there is pressure in the tubing.

Where can I find those spring loaded check valves? Are they good?
go to www.mcmaster.com look for either part no. 7933K31 or 6079T52

Although not spring loaded you may also use:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...PROD&Product_Code=M3-DCV&Category_Code=cparts

What's the point of this quote? Is it the benefit of keeping the valve far from the reactor and close to the cylinder:
Yes

What's the "delivery point," the reactor?
Yes
 
Hi everyone,
I've been following this thread while setting up my reactor and I must say Dragon Slayer your instructions were invaluable.

I've been running for a couple of weeks now and my dKH is dropping slightly everything else is fine. As per the instruction I up'd the BPM and DPM, which if I understood the instructions should raise the dKH, but as yet no change.
Any idea's?

Effluent dKH - 36
Tank dKH - 8
Ca - 420
BPM - 33
DPM - 140
Tank PH - 8.2
Effluent PH - 6.5

Oh and at this time my bio load is light.
 
Hi

You need to up your co2 BMP one or to drops /min ,as it will raise your dkh.
Dont raise the DMP as it will raise your Ca., and you dont want that.
Leave it for to days before testing again.

Good luck
 
Originally posted by engelquist
Hi

You need to up your co2 BMP one or to drops /min ,as it will raise your dkh.
Dont raise the DMP as it will raise your Ca., and you dont want that.


you get a balanced addition of Alk and Ca regardless of what you do to either bubble count or drip rate. one does not increase Alk and not Ca and vise/versa

to correctly answer the above question, you need to either lower your drip rate or increase bubble count to increase reactor output (use effluent pH as your deciding factor). you increased both which didn't give you a change in the reactors effluent output but did the dropping of the tanks dKH levels from one day to the next.

increase the bubble count or decrease the drip rate if the pH in the reactor is high. do one or the other, not both :) if your effluent pH is in the normal range and your still dropping tank dKH levels then you can increase both a little.

hth
kc
 
Jdieck,

I already have the Dennerle check valve (from Premium Aquatics) on the CO2 line (along with the original brass check valve). Is that Dennerle better than the springloaded ones (it's more expensive). Also, I haven't noticed any problem having more than one check valve on the C02 line. Do you see a problem?
 
Another question about media depletion. Does the following sound right?

I have a Korallin 4002 (the short wide one). I changed the media back in 10/04. Now the media has only gone down about 2". I tested the effluent, which is approximately 40 dkh.
 
Dag said:
Jdieck,

I already have the Dennerle check valve (from Premium Aquatics) on the CO2 line (along with the original brass check valve). Is that Dennerle better than the springloaded ones (it's more expensive). Also, I haven't noticed any problem having more than one check valve on the C02 line. Do you see a problem?

No problem having two of them, The Dennerle is what I have been using and has IMO been reliable.

Regarding the media deplation, as far as the reactor keeps a constant alkalinity you will be OK, it only means that at this point the consumption is low. As the requirement for Alkalinity increases you willl normally readjust the reactor to compensate and the media consumption will follow.
 
I am having aq bit of a problem with my reactor. I have everything set up per Dragon Slayer's instructions, but after 8-12 hours my effluent drip stops and I have no idea why. The only way I can get it to startt up again is to open one of the valves fully open and re-adjust my drip rate.
Drip 40 dpm
Co2 12 bpm

Any suggestions?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top