Korallin Calcium Reactor
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Stoneleven
New member
Hey guys,
First I just want to thank everyone for all the amazing information regarding the Korallin reactors. I have read these split threads and learned SOOO much about reactors and parameters, chemistry, etc. I first found this thread after purchasing a set from Premium Aquatics, it came with the 1502 and a gen-x co2 regulator, which a member had photographed in an earlier post, seems we have the same set up. I too was concerned with the 40 #'s of pressure on the first gauge, but it would seem these regulators are supposed to be at 40#'s.
The problem I experienced with the first tank I attached was that I only had 500 #'s of tank pressure, I adjusted 10 BPM and would check it every hour or so and over a period of three hours the tank was drained. I checked the connections on the tubing, they all seemed tight, so I assumed I picked up a bad tank (or near empty). So I took the tank and got a replacement yesterday. I called several buddies who have reactors and they said it was more than likely a leak, so before I added the new tank I cranked down on the tubing fittings and attempted to blow through the line, it was air tight. A buddy suggested using teflon thread tape to attach the regulator, so I did....and BAM 900 #'s pressure!!
I hooked it up at 10 BPM around noon yesterday, watched it periodically over the remainder of the day yesterday, each time I checked, the bubble count slowed slightly, so I calibrated it back to 10 BPM each time. I checked it approximately at midnight before I went to sleep and it seemed to be fine, still registering 900#'s pressure. I slept well thinking I had everything under control!
This morning at 8 am I looked and to my disbelief, no bubbles were climbing up the counter...oh no!!! I looked at tank pressure....CRAP....450#'s.....I lifted the tank and it feels very light. I'm ready to pull what few hairs I have left completely out of my head.
Bottom line is , how could I retain 900# pressure for 12 hours and then loose 450#'s in the following 8 hours? If it had a leak, I would think the 900 #'s would have dropped over the first 12 hours slightly?? Before I go crawling back to the welding supply and get a new tank, I am praying someone that may have experienced this could help me. If the regulator is bad, why would it register 900#'s and hold it steady for 12 hours, I'm so confused right now as to why I'm loosing tank pressure.
I spoke to Premium Aquatics and they ensured me I do not need the PH controller for the electric solenoid to work properly, it's plugged in and that should be all it needs.
And if there is a post somewhere regarding this and I missed it I apologize in advance, but I did not see any that had this specific problem (I read these threads for HOURS!!)
Any advice, tips, personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!!
First I just want to thank everyone for all the amazing information regarding the Korallin reactors. I have read these split threads and learned SOOO much about reactors and parameters, chemistry, etc. I first found this thread after purchasing a set from Premium Aquatics, it came with the 1502 and a gen-x co2 regulator, which a member had photographed in an earlier post, seems we have the same set up. I too was concerned with the 40 #'s of pressure on the first gauge, but it would seem these regulators are supposed to be at 40#'s.
The problem I experienced with the first tank I attached was that I only had 500 #'s of tank pressure, I adjusted 10 BPM and would check it every hour or so and over a period of three hours the tank was drained. I checked the connections on the tubing, they all seemed tight, so I assumed I picked up a bad tank (or near empty). So I took the tank and got a replacement yesterday. I called several buddies who have reactors and they said it was more than likely a leak, so before I added the new tank I cranked down on the tubing fittings and attempted to blow through the line, it was air tight. A buddy suggested using teflon thread tape to attach the regulator, so I did....and BAM 900 #'s pressure!!
I hooked it up at 10 BPM around noon yesterday, watched it periodically over the remainder of the day yesterday, each time I checked, the bubble count slowed slightly, so I calibrated it back to 10 BPM each time. I checked it approximately at midnight before I went to sleep and it seemed to be fine, still registering 900#'s pressure. I slept well thinking I had everything under control!
This morning at 8 am I looked and to my disbelief, no bubbles were climbing up the counter...oh no!!! I looked at tank pressure....CRAP....450#'s.....I lifted the tank and it feels very light. I'm ready to pull what few hairs I have left completely out of my head.
Bottom line is , how could I retain 900# pressure for 12 hours and then loose 450#'s in the following 8 hours? If it had a leak, I would think the 900 #'s would have dropped over the first 12 hours slightly?? Before I go crawling back to the welding supply and get a new tank, I am praying someone that may have experienced this could help me. If the regulator is bad, why would it register 900#'s and hold it steady for 12 hours, I'm so confused right now as to why I'm loosing tank pressure.
I spoke to Premium Aquatics and they ensured me I do not need the PH controller for the electric solenoid to work properly, it's plugged in and that should be all it needs.
And if there is a post somewhere regarding this and I missed it I apologize in advance, but I did not see any that had this specific problem (I read these threads for HOURS!!)
Any advice, tips, personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!!
jdieck
New member
Try the test pressure I describe to insure the regulator is tight. It may be an internal leak, a gauge leak or even a leak at the base of the bubble counter which are rather unusual. The most usual leak is due to the lack of the plastic seal ring between the cylinder valve and the regulator. If this plastic ring is properly seated you do not need not it is recommended to use teflon tape to attach the regulator to the tank.
Here is how to test the regulator for tight fittings:
Please do this in a well ventilated area. CO2 is non-toxic but may displace air in confined spaces causing asphixia
A) Releasing the pressure in the regulator:
Start by closing the cylinder valve all the way.
Loosen the pressure adjusting knob by turning it counterclockwise until it feels a bit loose. (The knob is the one in the center of the regulator body)
Open the needle valve and plug the solenoid to a power outlet
Slowly screw the pressure adjusting knob back in by turning it clockwise until the left gauge (Cylinder side) reads zero.
This procedure will vent any possible gas inside the regulator.
B) Pressurizing the regulator:
Start by loosening the pressure regulator knob (counterclockwise) until it feels a little loose to prevent damage to the low pressure gauge when opening the cylinder.
Unplug the solenoid valve to close the gas discharge
slowly open the cylinder valve all the way (there shall be no hissing or flow) the left gauge (high pressure cylinder side) shall read between 700 to 1000 psi if the tank is full but any pressure above 200psi will be enough for testing)
The gauge on the right side (Low preddure or delivery pressure) shall read zero if the pressure adjusting knob is loose.
Very slowly screw in the pressure adjusting knob until the right gauge (delivery pressure) reeds 40 to 50 psi. This will pressurize the regulator up to the solenoid valve but there will be no flow as the solenoid is closed (unplugged).
Now close the cilinder valve all the way. This will close the CO2 but keep the gas presurized inside the regulator. Take a reading of the pressure in both gauges and leave it that way. If you have an internal leak the pressure in the regulator shall drop relatively fast after you close the cylinder valve but keep the solenoid closed, if the pressure drops the regulator needs to be checked for external and internal leaks. Rund the test again and use soapy water trying to detect the leak.
If the pressure does not drop imediately leave it pressurized for a couple of hours and take a reading again, if the pressure has not dropped then there are no leaks at least up to the solenoid, if the regulator looses pressure then there is a smaller leak that shall be fixed.
This will test up to the solenoid, but you may still have a leak after the solenoid but those need to be checked while in service.
To put the regulator in service follow the next steps:
a) Losen the pressure adjusting knob
b) slowly open the cylinder valve until it is fully opened
c) Plug the solenoid to a power outlet to open it
d) open the needle valve about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn
e) slowly screw in the pressure adjusting knob for an initial delivery pressure level until the discharge gauge (right gauge) reads about 15 psi. Later on if bubble rate is not stable you can readjust to up to 40psi but the lowest that works the better.
f) adjust the needle valve for the desired bubble rate and let it stabilize a couple of minutes.
g) readjust the pressure adjusting knob if the discharge pressue is below 10 or higher than 20 psi.
h) readjust the bubble rate if needed.
i) use soapy water to double check for leaks after the solenoid.
Let me know how it goes.
Here is how to test the regulator for tight fittings:
Please do this in a well ventilated area. CO2 is non-toxic but may displace air in confined spaces causing asphixia
A) Releasing the pressure in the regulator:
Start by closing the cylinder valve all the way.
Loosen the pressure adjusting knob by turning it counterclockwise until it feels a bit loose. (The knob is the one in the center of the regulator body)
Open the needle valve and plug the solenoid to a power outlet
Slowly screw the pressure adjusting knob back in by turning it clockwise until the left gauge (Cylinder side) reads zero.
This procedure will vent any possible gas inside the regulator.
B) Pressurizing the regulator:
Start by loosening the pressure regulator knob (counterclockwise) until it feels a little loose to prevent damage to the low pressure gauge when opening the cylinder.
Unplug the solenoid valve to close the gas discharge
slowly open the cylinder valve all the way (there shall be no hissing or flow) the left gauge (high pressure cylinder side) shall read between 700 to 1000 psi if the tank is full but any pressure above 200psi will be enough for testing)
The gauge on the right side (Low preddure or delivery pressure) shall read zero if the pressure adjusting knob is loose.
Very slowly screw in the pressure adjusting knob until the right gauge (delivery pressure) reeds 40 to 50 psi. This will pressurize the regulator up to the solenoid valve but there will be no flow as the solenoid is closed (unplugged).
Now close the cilinder valve all the way. This will close the CO2 but keep the gas presurized inside the regulator. Take a reading of the pressure in both gauges and leave it that way. If you have an internal leak the pressure in the regulator shall drop relatively fast after you close the cylinder valve but keep the solenoid closed, if the pressure drops the regulator needs to be checked for external and internal leaks. Rund the test again and use soapy water trying to detect the leak.
If the pressure does not drop imediately leave it pressurized for a couple of hours and take a reading again, if the pressure has not dropped then there are no leaks at least up to the solenoid, if the regulator looses pressure then there is a smaller leak that shall be fixed.
This will test up to the solenoid, but you may still have a leak after the solenoid but those need to be checked while in service.
To put the regulator in service follow the next steps:
a) Losen the pressure adjusting knob
b) slowly open the cylinder valve until it is fully opened
c) Plug the solenoid to a power outlet to open it
d) open the needle valve about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn
e) slowly screw in the pressure adjusting knob for an initial delivery pressure level until the discharge gauge (right gauge) reads about 15 psi. Later on if bubble rate is not stable you can readjust to up to 40psi but the lowest that works the better.
f) adjust the needle valve for the desired bubble rate and let it stabilize a couple of minutes.
g) readjust the pressure adjusting knob if the discharge pressue is below 10 or higher than 20 psi.
h) readjust the bubble rate if needed.
i) use soapy water to double check for leaks after the solenoid.
Let me know how it goes.
Stoneleven
New member
Thanks jd!
After posting earlier, I went to my LFS and had them run a few tests on it, they suggested that even though the regulator has a rubbery seal, I should get a teflon washer for it, so I went and got a new tank, requested a teflon washer and then came home to read your reply, followed everything as close as possible and right now it seems to be ok.
But then again I thought it was ok yesterday haha. Anyways, we shall see by morning if it loses pressure again! Thanks again for your input, I really appreciate people like yourself to help keep this hobby going. I've had SW tanks since I was a kid in the early 80's and this was my first attempt with a reactor. (that's because I'm single now and don't have to get permission) haha.
I will post how it's doing tomorrow.
After posting earlier, I went to my LFS and had them run a few tests on it, they suggested that even though the regulator has a rubbery seal, I should get a teflon washer for it, so I went and got a new tank, requested a teflon washer and then came home to read your reply, followed everything as close as possible and right now it seems to be ok.
But then again I thought it was ok yesterday haha. Anyways, we shall see by morning if it loses pressure again! Thanks again for your input, I really appreciate people like yourself to help keep this hobby going. I've had SW tanks since I was a kid in the early 80's and this was my first attempt with a reactor. (that's because I'm single now and don't have to get permission) haha.
I will post how it's doing tomorrow.
jdieck
New member
Yes the seal has to be replaced every time the tank is refilled and the filler shall have them readily available for you.
Again, for safety in preventing large venting and to save your money by preventing loosing the gas in case of a leak, after pressurizing the regulator you can close the solenoid and the cylinder valve and just keep the regulator under the original pressure and that will be a very small amount if it leaks.
Good luck and let us know.
Jose
Stoneleven
New member
Well seems the teflon washer worked, I guess it slipped out of the box or something, but all is well now 
Thanks again for your help Jose.
Thanks again for your help Jose.davids1024
Premium Member
Need help.
I am assembling a new Korallin Calcium Reactor 1502 I purchased from Marine depot. When I connect the 2 tube assemblies to the eiheim pump, both flexible tubes (3/8 inch ID) are long enough to connect to the eiheim pump but not long enough for me to use the threaded nut to cinch the tubing. Is this normal? I am concerned that it will leak.
I am assembling a new Korallin Calcium Reactor 1502 I purchased from Marine depot. When I connect the 2 tube assemblies to the eiheim pump, both flexible tubes (3/8 inch ID) are long enough to connect to the eiheim pump but not long enough for me to use the threaded nut to cinch the tubing. Is this normal? I am concerned that it will leak.
davids1024
Premium Member
they are as close as they can get, the ends of the connectors are butted together already, thats my problem, I think they cut the tubing about a half inch to short. I guess I could take the tubing off and replace it with some 1/2 inch ID tubing I have but it makes me mad for all the money these things cost, you think they could get something as simple as this right
Thank goodness I found this thread. Quite by accident actually. I just read through it for about 2 hours but did not come across my problem yet
I bought a used 1502 and set it up the same way the previous owner had it set. Worked great for about a week and now the bubbles stopped coming thru the counter. I did a check and found that the brass check valve was not letting in air or co2 thru it anymore (yes I checked to make sure the arrow was pointing in the right direction). After turning the solenoid off for a day I have noticed that the valve is letting water pass thru it heading towards the co2 tank. It is as if the brass valve reversed itself overnight. I was going to try a new check valve but I just ran across this thread. Is there something basic I can do to clear up this problem or do I have to purchase a new check valve
I bought a used 1502 and set it up the same way the previous owner had it set. Worked great for about a week and now the bubbles stopped coming thru the counter. I did a check and found that the brass check valve was not letting in air or co2 thru it anymore (yes I checked to make sure the arrow was pointing in the right direction). After turning the solenoid off for a day I have noticed that the valve is letting water pass thru it heading towards the co2 tank. It is as if the brass valve reversed itself overnight. I was going to try a new check valve but I just ran across this thread. Is there something basic I can do to clear up this problem or do I have to purchase a new check valve
thrlride
Aka lemmywinks
I added more ARM media to my 1502 reactor and now about once a week the drip stops and the CO2 builds in the top of the reactor.
I'm only using the drip from the top of the reactor and am controlling the drip by the needle valve from usplastics.
The caclium reactor is being fed by the return pump
Any advice why this is happening?
I'm only using the drip from the top of the reactor and am controlling the drip by the needle valve from usplastics.
The caclium reactor is being fed by the return pump
Any advice why this is happening?
jdieck
New member
Some salt water might have got to the valve, I would recomend replacing it. Look for a Dnnerle valve.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...PROD&Product_Code=M3-DCV&Category_Code=cparts
jdieck
New member
Hi Presi:
There are some posibilities. Small media particles may plug the valve or changes in the media size as it dissolves and settlement of the media changes the pressure at the output created by the new pressure drop trough the media. trapped air or CO2 in within the media may have a similar effect also debris on the feed pump inlet/impeller or outlet if you are using one.
Try cleaning the inlet pump if using one and switching the effluent to the line at the pump outlet. Leave the line on top of the reactor a little bit open so if there is any CO2 accumulation it still has a chance to be released. See how it goes.
