Korallin Calcium Reactor

[bond007069]

how exactly do you purge the eheim pump of air

i have tried every method i could think of, tipping the reactor, closing the valves, opening the valves

TIA

 

[jdieck]

There are two effluent output lines, one is from the top of the reactor chamber itself, open that line and all air accumulated at the top of the reactor will be purged out.

 

[Dag]

Can someone help with a new problem with my Korallin reactor never before experienced in 3 years?

The bubbles stopped going through the bubble counter except when I open up all the way both valves on the effluent. The pressure in the CO2 container is fine, the check valve is fine. There's just some kind of wierd pressure that is preventing the CO2 from going through the bubble counter unless and until I release it by letting the water flow through the two effluent lines.

I hate these new problems that suddenly appear.

 

[jdieck]

You might have some salt creep buildup at the base of the bubble counter due to back flush and a potentially defective check valve.
In any case do a sistematic check of the different sections of the CO2 feed line. I will assume your regulator has a bubble counter.
Print this as a reference and use it as a guide while running the tests.

a) Is there pressure and flow out of the regulator: Close the cylinder valve, disconnect the CO2 line from the regulator, disassemble the top of the bubble counter, add RO/DI water to the counter and plug the solenoid valve to a power outlet. Close de needle valve. Slowly open the cylinder valve. Is there pressure (15 to 25 psi) on the ouput gauge (usually right side)? If no adjust the center knob of the regulator turning it clockwise, that shall increase the gauge pressure reading? Do you get a reading now? If not the regulator diaphragm might be damaged and need maintenance, take it to the nearest welding shop and see if they can do anything for it.
If you have ouput pressure slowly open the needle valve, do you get bubbles? a quarter to 1/2 a turn on the valve shall be enough to get lots of bubbles. If you do not get bubbles the ouput of the needle valve is plugged (salt creep) or the solenoid valve is not opening and might be damaged. Close the cylinder valve, unplug the solenoid, remove the regulator from the cylinder and try disassembling the bubblecounter from the base to inspect for salt creep, if you find any try rinsing it away or use some vianger if water alone does not wash it. If you find no salt the solenoid valve might need replacement.
If you have flow just close the needle valve. leave the solenoid valve plugged.

b) Is the CO2 line free of obstructions? connect the CO2 line to the regulator but disconnect it from the check valve. Open the needle valve. Do you still have bubbles? If not replace that section of the line and continue the tests.
If you have bubbles the line is OK. close the needle valve.

c) Test the check valve: Conect the check valve to the line and open the needle valve, do you have bubbles? if yes close the needle valve. unescrew the regulator center knob until it feels a little loos, that will close the regulator. Open the needle valve, any trapped pressure shall be released and you shall have no bubbles. Disconnect the check valve from the line and connect it to the opposite side to test if it effectively closes. Slowly screw in (clockwise) the regulator knob with the needle valve open until the pressure start to rise, do not let the pressure rise more than 10 psi or the check valve may fall apart. If you get bubbles the check valve is not properly closing and need replacement as it may let salt water backflow to the regulator. If you get no bubbles the check valve is OK close the needle valve, turn the check valve around and proceeed.
Now if during the first test of the paragrap you got no bubbles and the check valve direction was properly set then the valve is deffective and need replacing.

d) Test the remining portion of the line. Connect the last portion of the line but keep it disconnected from the reactor. Open the needle valve about 1/4 turn and adjust the regulator center knob clockwise until you get around 10 psi in the ouput gauge for the next test. Do you have bubbles? if no replace the last section of line if you do the line is OK. close the needle valve and connect the line to the reactor.

e) Test the reactors output valve and line. close the inlet line to the reactor. open both effluent lines and open the needle valve. Do you have bubbles? Wait a little bit as you might have some for a while until the pressure in the reactor increases if the bubbles slow down and stop or go too slow then either the ouput line(s), the inlet adapter or the ouput valve(s) are plugged with some media. Inspect the valves and lines for plugs. Also you may need to disassemble the input connector to the CO2 inlet and inspect it.

Hope this procedure helps. If you think it will be easier you can try it backwards (from e to a).
By the way if you find out that the effluent valves or lines are not plugged or restricted check that the pump inlet is really clear and that there is recirculation.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[invincible569]

Does anyone know if Korallin has any future plans for any new models or upgrades to the current?

 

[jdieck]

Have no idea.

 

[Dag]

Test the reactors output valve and line. close the inlet line to the reactor. open both effluent lines and open the needle valve.

When I close the inlet line to the reactor, I get bubbles through the bubble counter, but only if the effluent valves are both open. When I close it, no bubbles.

I am getting bubbles out of my CO2 line, but not alot of pressure. I know my diaphragm on my right valve of the regulator is broken, so I can't measure it precisely.

I think the problem was just enough pressure to give me a high reading on the left side, but not enough output pressure. I will refill the CO2 tank and see if that works.

Thanks for the help.

 

[jdieck]

If it is a small cylinder and you shake it it shall have liquid inside other wise it is empty.
If you have a bath scale you can weight the tank. The tare waight chall be stamped somwhere near the neck of the cylinder. Compare the tare weight with the weight of the cylinder the difference is CO2, if there is not difference the cylinder is empty even if there is pressure in it.

 

[Dag]

I am embarrassed to report the cause of the problem was a nearly empty tank. Not low enough to show that the tank was empty, but not enough pressure to counteract the back flow pressing against the check valve.

Thanks for your help.

Now if only I could cure my hair algae problem ....

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8408272#post8408272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dag

Now if only I could cure my hair algae problem ....

Now, thats a matter for another thread in itself

Reduced Feeding
Increased and better performing skiming
Carbon, Phosphate removing media and Purigen 24/7
Increase Flow
Periodic rock pore cleaning by with blow off from powerhead
Syphon water from under the sand bed.
Refugium with Macroalgae
Etc. Etc.

 

[Dag]

See here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=937462

I wet skim, using a big Euro reef.

This stuff grows right on my eductors (powered by a Iwaki 100)

I've been running carbon and phospate remover (change every month).

Have a refugium with feather cauerpa (it stopped growing)


Etc.

 

[Qwiv]

Hey all, like to thank all the posters for this thread. KC for the instructions and jdieck fo your input.
I have a 1502, and from reading this thread, seems you are feeding it with a powerhead or aqualifter. I hooked mine up without the aid of this thread (only found this thread a few days ago, looking for the instructions. I bought my reactor used with no instructions.) I just use the venturi from the pump to suck the water out of the sump. It seems to work great. I know it is preasurized as the DIY second chamber that I had, would leak really bad on this reactor due to the higher preasure. So why are you feeding with a pump or siphoning off the main tank??? Even Marine depot says it is not required....

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8416127#post8416127 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Qwiv
So why are you feeding with a pump or siphoning off the main tank??? Even Marine depot says it is not required....

When you compare the low pressure drop trough the suction recirculation pipe diameter (3/4" or 1" dia) with the 1/4" tubing most comonly used to feed the reactor the water flow will try to follow the path of less resistance so in many installations the suction trough the 1/4" tubing alone is not enough for a normal feed, specially if the reactor (Like in my case) is installed a couple of feet above the sump.

 

[Dag]

My calcium reactor is powered by an Eheim 1250 which is leaking. I would like to try changing the sealing ring. Eheimparts.com is so expensive -- $12 minimum shipping charge! Anyone know of another source?

 

[jdieck]

If you know the specifications of the O ring or you can measure it (Probably milimetric) you might be able to find it at www.mcmaster.com

 

[Qwiv]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8416316#post8416316 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
When you compare the low pressure drop trough the suction recirculation pipe diameter (3/4" or 1" dia) with the 1/4" tubing most comonly used to feed the reactor the water flow will try to follow the path of less resistance so in many installations the suction trough the 1/4" tubing alone is not enough for a normal feed, specially if the reactor (Like in my case) is installed a couple of feet above the sump.

Sweet. Mine is installed in my sump, so I guess I am good.

 

[ColinPopcorn]

I just my reactor. I bought it used (previously owned, but never actually setup) Now I have to wait a week for the media to arrive.

Oh the agony of waiting.

Anyway, What does everyone think of ARM media? Will I need to use any other kind of trace element additive, or will the tank get everything it needs from the reactor media?

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8449838#post8449838 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ColinPopcorn
Anyway, What does everyone think of ARM media? Will I need to use any other kind of trace element additive, or will the tank get everything it needs from the reactor media?

ARM will work well, just keep the media clean as it gets muddy and the performance of the reactor will be maintained.
The reactor with ARM will add Calcium and Alkalinity, you will need to manually supplement Magnesium whenever necessary.

 

[RGibson]

jdieck the new Arm will not need manually supplement of magnesium. It is call Arm coarse .

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8450479#post8450479 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
jdieck the new Arm will not need manually supplement of magnesium. It is call Arm coarse .

Do you have more information on it. I can't seem to find much about it in my search. Caribsea does not show it in ther site yet.
Coarser will help reduce the effect of mudding and increase the recirculation turnover in the reactor I am now experimenting a bit to see if the increased turnover compensates for the reduced area of contact but regarding the magnesium, do you know if they mention adding magnesium carbonate to it?