Korallin Calcium Reactor

[ReefObsessor805]

Sounds good. Thanks for your advice. I will probably be asking you more questions in the future...lol

 

[jdieck]

Welcome to..

 

[ReefObsessor805]

I am leaning towards the Geo 618. Has everything you have listed, but it is pricey... I guess I can't be picky if I want something that lasts...

 

[mikeatjac]

jdieck

I am having problems keeping up with calcium/Alk demand. Would a second chamber help that much?

 

[Henry Bowman]

Reefobsessor...

I have been looking over the reactor issue as well. The more I talk to folks and review threads, the Geo keeps coming up as a good unit. I have yet to read a post and or talk to anyone that has anything negative to say about them. I guess the best thing I have heard is that they are very controlable, rock steady and consistent. For me, I havent purchased yet, it's down to a Geo or Precision Marine.

FWIW

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8552552#post8552552 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mikeatjac
jdieck

I am having problems keeping up with calcium/Alk demand. Would a second chamber help that much?

It will help but not much. The second chamber could allow for more CO2 to be added to the first chamber by consumming whatever excess CO2 may escape and helping reduce the PH drop but will not be able if the excess amount is too large. In addition it will not add too much in teh way of additional calcium and alkalinity if your PH in the first chamber is already below the 6.5 level.
In my experience when the reactor does not cope up anymore you may extend it's life with a second chamber for a couple of months but it is better to bite the bullet and get a larger reactor and while at it get one that can handle at least three times as much. The good news is that you already have the cylinder and the regulator so a bit less expense.

 

[GLD]

where can I find replacement fittings for the top of the korallin reactor?? Specificly, I am looking for the nut that tightens the compression fitting at the point that the CO2 hose attaches to the reactor.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
GLD
Tulsa, OK

 

[jdieck]

Marine Depot sells parts, in this case you may need to buy the whole inlet assembly with the bubble counter.
Check with them to insure that is what you need.

http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_calcium_reactors_korallin_kalkreactor.asp?CartId=

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KL3111

 

[GLD]

Thanks jdieck for the lead. It will solve the problem but I would love to find the part I need without having to replace the entire inlet assembly. All I need is the threaded compression fitting that attaches the CO2 hose to the inlet assembly. In the picture, the hose leaves the brass check valve and "screws into" the top of the assembly. What I have lost is the fitting that does the screwing.

Thanks !

 

[jdieck]

I am not sure if they are milimetric or just standard. If they are standard fittings you may try adapting something with wither John Guess or standard tubing fittings

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=18309&Page=1

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=6919&Page=1

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=26485&Page=1

 

[SDguy]

Well, I finally got around to hooking up my Korallin reactor. I have a couple questions though...

I have it plumbed so the water feed is teed off my main sump return line, so the reactor is pressurized at this point. My first problem is the top of the check valve. It leaks where the blue plastic meets the brass. Water will drip if there is no CO2 being fed. So I think it's safe to assume CO2 is leaking when it is being fed. I've re-teflon taped it, still slight leak. Is this because I have the reactor pressurized? Or is the valve broken? Is this valve problem pretty much dashing my hopes of tuning the reactor?

TIA

 

[jdieck]

If water leaks, CO2 leaks. Presurizing a reactor is somehow tricky as pressure control is somehow sketchy. What you are looking for is about 5 psi but some return pumps specially pressure rated pumps located in a basement can put up excessive pressure (Up to 20 to 30 psi range) creating leaks on top O rings particularly in the recirculation pump housing or places like hose connections and check valves.
There are some ways to control the amount of pressure.
a) Install a T on the reactors feed line and return part of the water back to the sump
b) install a needle valve on the feed line and use it to regulate the effluent flow instead of the output valve in the reactor (This acutally operates the reactor at the pressure of the recirculating pump only)
c) Install and independent small powerhead to feed the reactor.

 

[SDguy]

OK, thanks for the info. Since I already have needle valves on both output lines, I guess I can just switch one onto the feed line, so option B will be my best choice. No other aspect of the reactor leaks, just the top of the check valve. So what do I do about that? After I switch the valve, and presumably lower the pressure in the reactor to the correct amount, then re-teflon tape the check valve plastic/brass connection?

 

[jdieck]

Disconnect the fitting and check that the inside insert and fitting threads are not damaged, if so you may need to find a suitable replacement for the fitting.
Alternatively you can use an external check valve (Like the Dennerle) to connect directly in the hose from the CO2 to the bubblecounter inlet.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...PROD&Product_Code=M3-DCV&Category_Code=cparts

 

[SDguy]

This is the check valve I have. Again, the leak is at the blue plastic/brass junction.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KL3115

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8600455#post8600455 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
This is the check valve I have. Again, the leak is at the blue plastic/brass junction.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KL3115

That piece shall be just threaded, try removing the plastic piece (counterclockwise) Check if the threads are not damaged, put a couple of turns of teflon tape and put it back.
A little bit of TFE paste on top of the teflon tape shall help seal better. Do not over tighten.

 

[SDguy]

OK, cleaned out the check valve and rethreaded both ends with teflon tape. Also lowered the pressure by closing the feed valve some. And I think we have a winner. 16 hours and the drip, bubble, and pH have not changed, and no CO2 buildup in the unit. Yay! Time to test alk....

Thanks for the help jdieck.

 

[jdieck]

:thumbsup:

 

[SDguy]

OK, here is how it looks:

60 DPM, 16 BPM, pH 6.1, 25.6 dKH.

Tank: 8.8 dKH, pH 7.8 (normally I'd add kalk with the topoff, but trying to not add anything while adjusting the reactor, so pH is low this morning).

What do you think? I would have thought the effluent dKH would have been higher with a pH of 6.1, no?

 

[jdieck]

What media are you using, If ARM try keeping the PH at around 6.4 to 6.5 check that your PH probe is properly calibrated. It is very dificult to reach 6.1 because the media dissolution will prevent it and you will generate a lot of undissolved CO2 in the way of bubbles inside the reactor which I think might not be the case so may be your PH is not that low and that is the reason you are getting 25 dKh.
Try improving aereation in the tank or drip the effluent near your skimmer inlet to improve on the tank's PH.