Korallin Calcium Reactor

[mcurl98]

yeah, it is in a well ventilated shed-but not well insulted by any means. I'll give it a shot. I have this et up...should I consider another?

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=CO3111

 

[jdieck]

The m3 is one of the best hobby regulators out there. Try to ventilate the shed, that will help.

 

[gigiba]

I have this unit for about 6 month and it is running fine, but I have to watch out the drip rate everyday. Both drip valves that came with the unit have leak, so I replaced them with the same ones that my LFS use. I believe those are for air pump and it clogged very easily.
Is there a better drip valve that I can use ?

 

[jdieck]

Yes, try the SMC needle valves. They come with different connections, I use the John Guest with 1/4" tubing.
note that the needle in these valves is also plastic so they shall not be used to close the flow as tightening it close may deform the needle then loosing some of the accuracy.
If you need to shut off the flow I will suggest a small **** ball valve in line with the needle one.
Also note that many times unstable dripping and flow is caused by air bubbles that accumulate on the line. Ideally you do not want an inverted U shape on the effluent line, this will provide for a high point were the air bubble can stop and present resistance to the flow. Try setting the effluent flow line to point slightly upward so bubbles continue hte path to the output.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=15615&product_id=15616

 

[gigiba]

Thanks for the quick reply!!!

I checked on the site and wow that thing cost a lot more.
1/4" OD John Guest x 1/4" OD John Guest PVC Needle Valve $10.71/ea
Is this a Speedfit connection type?
Does this really help with drip rate? and no clogging?

can I use this for ball valve?

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RO5351


Sorry, I am new to plumbing parts.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10096538#post10096538 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gigiba
Thanks for the quick reply!!!

I checked on the site and wow that thing cost a lot more.
1/4" OD John Guest x 1/4" OD John Guest PVC Needle Valve $10.71/ea
Is this a Speedfit connection type?
Does this really help with drip rate? and no clogging?

can I use this for ball valve?

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RO5351


Sorry, I am new to plumbing parts.

No that is not a needle valve so it will be difficult to set and adjust for small dripping. The smaller the drip the more difficult will be.
Jon Guest is the same type of connector that is on the valve you linked to. It is the same as the one used mostly for RO/DI systems.

 

[gigiba]

for needle valve - i will get this :
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va..._name=15615&product_id=15616&variant_id=22326

for shutoff valve - i will get this:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RO5351

Do you think this is a good setup for drip?

Thanks

 

[jdieck]

That will work.

 

[gigiba]

got another question- how do I know for sure that my CO2 bottle exhausted?
it was working for about 6 month and now I turn the needle valve all the way open on the co2 regulator, it stay at very low bubble rate. does this mean it is exhausted?

the reason I am asking is that it still showing good pressure on the gauge.

TIA

 

[Whaledriver]

I was wondering if a perilistic medical pump would work as a feed pump for a Korallin 1502. I have a Ross Patrol pump that works well with a 2 part system

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10193188#post10193188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gigiba
got another question- how do I know for sure that my CO2 bottle exhausted?
it was working for about 6 month and now I turn the needle valve all the way open on the co2 regulator, it stay at very low bubble rate. does this mean it is exhausted?

the reason I am asking is that it still showing good pressure on the gauge.

TIA

Which gauge?
CO2 inside the cylinder is in liquid form and as far as there is liquid the pressure on the gauge closer to the cylinder valve should show around 800 to 1000 psi, if it shows 700 psi or less the liquid has been finished and the gas will not last long as the pressure will fall down very quickly.
You may get a bit more gas out of the cylinder if you screw in the center knob to increase the output pressure back to around 20 to 25 psi but to prevent contamination inside the cylinder try leaving at least 200 psi in it. Do not forget to turn the center knob all the way out (counterclockwise) before connecting the new filled cylinder, once connected and the cylinder valve open readjust the center knob to give you 15 to 20 psi at the output gauge.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10194027#post10194027 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Whaledriver
I was wondering if a perilistic medical pump would work as a feed pump for a Korallin 1502. I have a Ross Patrol pump that works well with a 2 part system

It depends on three key things,
1. is the flow range acceptable? Many persitaltics may fall short of the required flow.
2. Is the peristaltic designed for 100% duty cycle? Most peristaltics are designed to work less than 100% of the time.
3. Can the flow be adjusted to match the requirement? Many peristaltics have fixed RPM, to change flow for those a change of the tubing for a lesser diameter may be needed.

 

[Whaledriver]

The flow is 1-300 ml per hour.
I can get about 30 gallons of use out of pump-tube set.
It flows as needed to make the hourly rate. It is not a constant flow, it is a pulse.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10194499#post10194499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Whaledriver
The flow is 1-300 ml per hour.
I can get about 30 gallons of use out of pump-tube set.
It flows as needed to make the hourly rate. It is not a constant flow, it is a pulse.

I'm not familiar with pulse but if you have it, nothing is lost by trying.

 

[gigiba]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10194069#post10194069 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Which gauge?
CO2 inside the cylinder is in liquid form and as far as there is liquid the pressure on the gauge closer to the cylinder valve should show around 800 to 1000 psi, if it shows 700 psi or less the liquid has been finished and the gas will not last long as the pressure will fall down very quickly.
You may get a bit more gas out of the cylinder if you screw in the center knob to increase the output pressure back to around 20 to 25 psi but to prevent contamination inside the cylinder try leaving at least 200 psi in it. Do not forget to turn the center knob all the way out (counterclockwise) before connecting the new filled cylinder, once connected and the cylinder valve open readjust the center knob to give you 15 to 20 psi at the output gauge.

I have a JBJ Co2 regulator and i am confused on the reading of the two gauges. The left gauge is reading 900PSI (900lb/in2) and the right gauge is reading about 43.88PSI (43.88lb/in2). I have hard time to get the reading of the right gauge.
0 to 50 has 9 marks and 9th mark is on the 50 itself. So I divided 50 by 9 and x 7.9 (since the pointer is pointing a bit below 8th mark). So, I got 43.88PSI. Does this make sense?
by looking at the gauges, the bottle is still good, but I can't get more bubbles out of this thing.

I have my LFS set it up for me on the regulator with bottle when I purchased them. So, I don't know where to set the PSI for the right hand side gauge and the steps to do it safe. Is there an instruction online that I can follow?

Thanks for the help.

 

[jdieck]

The JBJ has a pre-set fixed delivery pressure setting so it will not have means to adjust the output pressure which by the way at 40+ is is about twice what I would prefer assuming the output gauge is still within calibration.
With that high pressure at the outlet you should have very good flow unless the needle valve orifice is plugged (salt creep could do that) or the solenoid valve is damaged.

Close the cylinder valve, unscrew the bubble counter (careful not to break it. Unscrew the needle from the needle valve and inspect the orifice for obstructions or dirt. Without the needle and bubble counter you shall be able to se some light looking into the needle valve seat.
With the solenoid unplugged, you can try using a syringe with RO/DI water to inject trough the needle orifice and make it flow to the bubble counter orifice. Re assemble.

Checking the solenoid without removing it will not be easy, basically you should hear a clear clicking when plugged or unplugged.

See if that help.

Remember to fully test for leaks when putting the regulator back in use using a bit of dishwashing soap in water.

 

[gigiba]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10197530#post10197530 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
The JBJ has a pre-set fixed delivery pressure setting so it will not have means to adjust the output pressure which by the way at 40+ is is about twice what I would prefer assuming the output gauge is still within calibration.
With that high pressure at the outlet you should have very good flow unless the needle valve orifice is plugged (salt creep could do that) or the solenoid valve is damaged.

Close the cylinder valve, unscrew the bubble counter (careful not to break it. Unscrew the needle from the needle valve and inspect the orifice for obstructions or dirt. Without the needle and bubble counter you shall be able to se some light looking into the needle valve seat.
With the solenoid unplugged, you can try using a syringe with RO/DI water to inject trough the needle orifice and make it flow to the bubble counter orifice. Re assemble.

Checking the solenoid without removing it will not be easy, basically you should hear a clear clicking when plugged or unplugged.

See if that help.

Remember to fully test for leaks when putting the regulator back in use using a bit of dishwashing soap in water.

Thanks jdieck!!!

Does the distance of the air tube matter? I have about 6 ft tube from the co2 bottle to the Calcium reactor.

Thanks again

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10197721#post10197721 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gigiba
Thanks jdieck!!!

Does the distance of the air tube matter? I have about 6 ft tube from the co2 bottle to the Calcium reactor.

Thanks again

No, that should not matter but note that the tubing or the check valve in the tubing might also be plugged.

 

[gigiba]

It was the check valve got plugged. After cleaned the check valve, it is running good now.

Thanks jdieck for all the help.

 

[jdieck]

:thumbsup: