kuda baby activity

DanEnglish

New member
One of my kudas gave birth today. I transferred all the babies I could from the DT to a 2g tank sitting on a magnetic stirring plate with a 1" stir bar turning at 1-2 rpm. The babies seem to go from swimming for a minute to lying on the bottom then back to swimming. Is this normal or are they sick? I have rotifers arriving in the morning from reef nutrition.
 
Once they have adequate food supply, they will usually come up and feed. I have seen up to 75% on the bottom, when I couldn't get food until the second day, come up and feed and continue to do well. The very first time I used copepods as a first food, it wasn't until about 30 hours post delivery that I was able to feed them. I had over 90% survival with that batch.

Rotifers are a bit different. You have to make sure you keep the cultures clean and enrich them. Even then, my best survival ratio with rotifers was about 50%.

Dan
 
Thanks for the info. About 10-20% are moving now, about 8 hours after additions of live rotifers to the water (I checked under a microscope that the rotifers are alive). Where did you get a good supply of copepods? Are they consistently better?
 
Copepods create a better feeding response. They are also much more nutritious. Nutrition is much more complex than just the protein and fatty acid content. Rotifers are part of the zooplankton layer that seahorses feed on initially but in the wild within the micro and meso zooplanktons there are many organisms so the diet is varied. Side by side, the fry will go after copepods before considering rotifers.

The problem with copepods is getting enough. Seahorse fry have been found to eat 1 to 2 food items per minute per daylight hour. Multiply that out per fry and you will soon find you can not produce enough copepods feasibly. However, the more copepods you give, the higher your survival rates will be.

Still, I have reared them with just rotifers for the first 3 to 5 days before going to artemia. Just didn't do as well.

Dan
 
Question

Question

Hello Dan,

You mentioned that baby Kuda do better on Copepods. Are Copepods very hard to culture?

I have a pair of Kuda that have bread, and i expect the male to have birth in the next weeks, I am stating a rotifer culture, and and decapped brine eggs on standby...I am trying to get the highest yield from the birth, so I would like to culture Copepods, if it's not too difficult??

It seems that the Copepods are much bigger than Rotifers and BBs, so I am a little confused as to why baby seahorse fry would do better, or is it that they do better after X amount of days on Copepods .vs BBS

Thanks,

KudaWest
 
Copepods come in a wide range of sizes. Many are smaller than rotifers even.
Also, one can selectively sieve out the adults of copepods that are too large, leaving the smaller nauplii to use for food.
Best though to start with small species as that will be easier.
Parvocalanus I think are the smallest that Dan sells, but they are not available to me here in Canada so I use Nitokra Lacustris instead.
I think it works better because of the nutrient profile of the pods, and, as Dan mentioned, the copepods create a better feeding response.
With some copepods I've had good luck, some others the opposite.
Problem is that they don't culture fast enough to give any meaningful numbers for long, so you need a very large culture going long before the fry show up.
I don't get enough to handle repetitive birthings of pelagic fry, so I mix copepods and rotifers for the first feed.
As the fry grow, I add enriched bbs from San Francisco cysts, followed by the larger enriched bbs from Great Salt Lake cysts.
 
You mentioned that baby Kuda do better on Copepods. Are Copepods very hard to culture?
It is not that they are hard, it is that they are slow to reproduce in quantities needed for larval fish. Rotifers are the standby for many because of their fast reproductive rates.

It seems that the Copepods are much bigger than Rotifers and BBs, so I am a little confused as to why baby seahorse fry would do better, or is it that they do better after X amount of days on Copepods .vs BBS
Kuda can actually start off on foods larger than rotifers. I usually start them off on pods in the 120 to 330 micron size range for the first 3 days then go to 250 to 500 micron and then to 330 and larger. Larger food items means they don't have to eat as much which in turn means less energy wasted going after food and better food conversion ratios. Pods also naturally have a better nutritional profile. Rotifers are what you feed them.

Dan
 
Thanks Dan and RayJay for your responses....I will try a combo of Pods and Rotifers. I think that I have about 5-10 days before the Fry get here, so I may have to buy the Pods as I just started the Pod and Rotifer cultures today.

You mentioned that Dan has Pods for sale ?

Dan do you have a Web Site?

Thanks again
 
If you get the right species of copepods, they reproduce in sufficient numbers. I use Euterpina acutifrons, and I'm honestly not sure why it's not more popular because they breed like crazy. Both the Shedd Aquarium and the Waikiki aquarium use them for raising seahorses as well.

You do need a bit of space to raise copepods. You need to raise live algae as well, because any of the species that are useful to seahorses also only eat live algae. Euterpina acutifrons and Apocyclops panamensis both can eat tetraselmis. Other species need algae like isochrysis or chaetoceros. Apocyclops panamensis is another that does really well, but I haven't had a lot of luck feeding it to seahorses. I think their predator avoidance is too "good"; I have seen them "leap" a cm or more when being targeted by baby seahorses.

I have a page here that covers some of the options for feeding seahorses copepods:
http://www.fusedjaw.com/breeding/foods-breeding-syngnathids-seahorses-pipefish/
 
Back
Top