Large volume laminar flow machine
- Thread starter karimwassef
- Start date
Your CAD renderings are frickin' awesome! Bask in the nerdy goodness…
I'm still confused on the overall system configuration. Is it a separate test mule, or is it going to be incorporated into your current system? Can you explain (and/or render) the overall configuration? I would be grateful, and it may help others following/helping as well.
I'm still confused on the overall system configuration. Is it a separate test mule, or is it going to be incorporated into your current system? Can you explain (and/or render) the overall configuration? I would be grateful, and it may help others following/helping as well.
karimwassef
Active member
Cost will be high because it's Shapeways or because my design is hard to 3D print?
karimwassef
Active member
There are 3 implementations:
1. This is the desired final system (48" x 120" x 24" high, DT = 36" x 96" x 24" high)
2. Retrofit current
My current system is smaller (DT = 32" x 96" x 28" high) and I'm not going to rip it apart. I'll take a couple of the 3D printed pieces and use it on my current system to create a more uniform flow pattern. It's not the ultimate purpose, but it's what I'll use in the short term.
3. Proof of concept
I've got my kids building up the Lego model now. It's the square edged version, but it's what I'll use to prove that the big final system will work as expected.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Sheer size and time required most likely. Straight vertical walls can be a bit harder to deal with on home printers (sagging and slumping), but shouldn't be an issue for a proper printer.
karimwassef
Active member
Size and time?
It's 16" x 6" x 3" and mostly air... If it's going to be expensive to do one, and I need two per section + two more for the inlet and transition, that's four. X 5 sections per side= 20 per side ... X 2 sides = 40! There's only 5 unique shapes though - the center section + right handed inlet and transition + left handed inlet and transition.
Maybe I need to create a transfer mould out of the five basic 3D pieces and then create multiples using a different technology.
It's 16" x 6" x 3" and mostly air... If it's going to be expensive to do one, and I need two per section + two more for the inlet and transition, that's four. X 5 sections per side= 20 per side ... X 2 sides = 40! There's only 5 unique shapes though - the center section + right handed inlet and transition + left handed inlet and transition.
Maybe I need to create a transfer mould out of the five basic 3D pieces and then create multiples using a different technology.
herring_fish
Crazy Designer
Will your CAD system measure total volume of the walls. That might also help with the bidding process. If not, I could help.
karimwassef
Active member
It'll give me a volume... I'll run it again.
To get weight, what density should I use? ABS plastic?
karimwassef
Active member
Will do. I need to download the maker's CAD so I can convert it from sketchup
karimwassef
Active member
So.. On the idea of s transfer mould...
If I make an acrylic box for the 3D piece. Spray it with non-stick film and then pour in a hard wax (best material ?) to make a mould. Once it dries, take the 3D piece out, flip the wax mould over, spray with non-stick again and pour epoxy to make copies?
There are no hidden ledges or hooks. These are all straight vertical shapes, so mould transfer should work.
Would the right materials be wax and epoxy?
If I make an acrylic box for the 3D piece. Spray it with non-stick film and then pour in a hard wax (best material ?) to make a mould. Once it dries, take the 3D piece out, flip the wax mould over, spray with non-stick again and pour epoxy to make copies?
There are no hidden ledges or hooks. These are all straight vertical shapes, so mould transfer should work.
Would the right materials be wax and epoxy?
karimwassef
Active member
Ok. The volume of the main section is 40.3in3 = 660.4cm3 = 660g of ABS plastic
Here's the breakout:
16 x 0.4 (straight fins) = 6.5in3
8 x 0.6 (second fins) = 5.1
4 x 1.1 (third tier) = 4.2
2 x 2.1 (fourth) = 4.2
1 x 4.0 (main divider) = 4.0
2 x 2.7 (side walls) = 5.5
1 x 10.8 (base floor 1/8") = 10.8
The floor is 25% of the total and the fins contribute 75%.
So how much would 660g of ABS 3D printed cost?
Here's the breakout:
16 x 0.4 (straight fins) = 6.5in3
8 x 0.6 (second fins) = 5.1
4 x 1.1 (third tier) = 4.2
2 x 2.1 (fourth) = 4.2
1 x 4.0 (main divider) = 4.0
2 x 2.7 (side walls) = 5.5
1 x 10.8 (base floor 1/8") = 10.8
The floor is 25% of the total and the fins contribute 75%.
So how much would 660g of ABS 3D printed cost?
herring_fish
Crazy Designer
The wax and epoxy can work but heat can be a VERY BIG ISSUE!
When my company didn’t listen to me, we lost thousands of dollars. LOL and then we had to literally run as smoke started shooting out of the molds like a small jet engines….Oh and more than once. Read the data sheets.
Just be sure that you get a very slow acting resin. You could also add multiple thin layers, allowing them to set before adding another.
…but if adding radii in the corners can be achieved, I hope that you will have a much better resulting output.
When my company didn’t listen to me, we lost thousands of dollars. LOL and then we had to literally run as smoke started shooting out of the molds like a small jet engines….Oh and more than once. Read the data sheets.
Just be sure that you get a very slow acting resin. You could also add multiple thin layers, allowing them to set before adding another.
…but if adding radii in the corners can be achieved, I hope that you will have a much better resulting output.
herring_fish
Crazy Designer
If you are going to be able to do sculpting of sorts, why don't you add splitters with radii on the other side as well?
karimwassef
Active member
you mean instead of simulating a straight Tee, simulate a double 90
It's a good idea, especially because I'm concerned about the returning flow impedance too - this is the flow from the thin comb structures back into the main duct for the pump intakes.
It's a good idea, especially because I'm concerned about the returning flow impedance too - this is the flow from the thin comb structures back into the main duct for the pump intakes.
karimwassef
Active member
If you are going to be able to do sculpting of sorts, why don't you add splitters with radii on the other side as well?
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/0_zpsufcporwh.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/0_zpsufcporwh.png" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsufcporwh.png"/></a>
looks good
karimwassef
Active member
herring - based on that little snippet, it looks like you have a model of this shape too? Did you replicate based on my dimensions?
herring_fish
Crazy Designer
No I just used PC Paint but it looks like you have it nailed.
karimwassef
Active member
It did add volume - total is 45in3 = 741 cm3 = 741 g
thejuggernaut
Member
I don't really have an "in" in the market, but if you get me a STP or IGS copy of your model, I can reach out to a few different people I know that do this. I agree that this may be high. It isn't just material cost. This will require allot of time in the printer. Tying up a very expensive machine.
They will also be able to tell you if it is structurally sound. It may be a little thin walled. On the model you showed, how tall is each section.
They will also be able to tell you if it is structurally sound. It may be a little thin walled. On the model you showed, how tall is each section.
