avaneaton2000
Member
Mike, your carpentry is nice, don't be so hard on yourself.
I'll stop by this weekend to see it in person with some frags.
I'll stop by this weekend to see it in person with some frags.
Laud's 210 build
- Thread starter laud
- Start date
laud
New member
Ok, so now I've got to get the skimmer in the sump and the sump in the base.
Trouble #1... My base is too short, so I must get a skimmer with height in mind.
I end up getting the AquaC EV-240 because of height restrictions and past success with the HOB skimmer.
I get the Reeflo Barracuda for my return and skimmer. In the tight quarters I tee off the return with a ball valve before the tee so that I can adjust the amount going into the skimmer. Check valves are used in two spots, one is unnecessary. Two quick releases, which came in handy when the pump broke. (reeflo sent me replacement parts and I bought a second pump for security.)
Now I've got to verbally show you the plumbing since I didn't take a picture of the drainage. If you complain enough I may take a couple.
The left drain flows into the skimmer section. The right drain tees off into the refugium (with a ball valve) and into the skimmer section.
The pump pulls all the water through the entire sump sucking micro bubbles up over, under and over the bubble baffle, so I put socks on the drain into the skimmer part. The space is so tight I have to use 4" socks instead of 7".
Since I did NOT want to get R/O from anywhere regularly on such a big system, I bought an RO/DI and ran the 1/4" hose through the attic into the return section of the sump. A float valve turns it on and off to keep it topped off.
Trouble #1... My base is too short, so I must get a skimmer with height in mind.
I end up getting the AquaC EV-240 because of height restrictions and past success with the HOB skimmer.
I get the Reeflo Barracuda for my return and skimmer. In the tight quarters I tee off the return with a ball valve before the tee so that I can adjust the amount going into the skimmer. Check valves are used in two spots, one is unnecessary. Two quick releases, which came in handy when the pump broke. (reeflo sent me replacement parts and I bought a second pump for security.)
Now I've got to verbally show you the plumbing since I didn't take a picture of the drainage. If you complain enough I may take a couple.
The left drain flows into the skimmer section. The right drain tees off into the refugium (with a ball valve) and into the skimmer section.
The pump pulls all the water through the entire sump sucking micro bubbles up over, under and over the bubble baffle, so I put socks on the drain into the skimmer part. The space is so tight I have to use 4" socks instead of 7".
Since I did NOT want to get R/O from anywhere regularly on such a big system, I bought an RO/DI and ran the 1/4" hose through the attic into the return section of the sump. A float valve turns it on and off to keep it topped off.
Ocean Mang
New member
Looks great! Did you build your home entertainment center too? Looks nice.
laud
New member
These next two show my initial attempts at rockwork pillars and also the old half broken lighting I used on my old 55 gallon. They were 2 Coralife 4 65w pc fixtures. I was planning on upgrading to either T5's or MH/vho supplements. But first I needed to get some fish in that tank.
My first pair of fish. Clowns (I know, how cliche)
My first pair of fish. Clowns (I know, how cliche)
laud
New member
Once I decided to use MH's instead of T5's, I had to build my top to accommodate the height of Lumenbrite requirements. They are said to work best at a bulb height of 16" off the water surface. So I had to make my canopy high enough to not show the bulb light. I was ok with the reflectors showing a bit.
This is the whole view of the system in progress..
I also left the top and back open. The back support is a 1x8 so that I didn't have to worry about suicidal wrasses.
The stained canopy prior to hardware.
I chose to have the entire front open in two different ways. First the face would open in doors similar to the base...
The second was to have the whole front open on piano hinges that were supported by gas springs. This way I could really get myself into the tank to do rock work.
This is the whole view of the system in progress..
I also left the top and back open. The back support is a 1x8 so that I didn't have to worry about suicidal wrasses.
The stained canopy prior to hardware.
I chose to have the entire front open in two different ways. First the face would open in doors similar to the base...
The second was to have the whole front open on piano hinges that were supported by gas springs. This way I could really get myself into the tank to do rock work.
carlosngloria
Active member
how are those hinges working out with the saltwater>? any rust?
laud
New member
Now comes the lifetime of getting the rock work down. Which I don't think I ever will. My inspiration was to have a giant open swimming arean in the center of the tank, while building up pillars to hide the overflows.
The simple task of putting rock in the tank became expensive and I needed a costlier solution. I ended up looking around the yard for coral rock I've accumulated over the years for landscaping and put those pieces and others that I found around the neighborhood into a 55gallon garbage can with a bulk head at the base to drain when I finished. (also I was planning on using this system for water changes too) So I bleached the neighborhood rock for a few days, then making sure there was no more bleach in the the rockwork by lots of water changes.
So my rockwork went slowly
Left side...
Right side..
Until it got to this point
The simple task of putting rock in the tank became expensive and I needed a costlier solution. I ended up looking around the yard for coral rock I've accumulated over the years for landscaping and put those pieces and others that I found around the neighborhood into a 55gallon garbage can with a bulk head at the base to drain when I finished. (also I was planning on using this system for water changes too) So I bleached the neighborhood rock for a few days, then making sure there was no more bleach in the the rockwork by lots of water changes.
So my rockwork went slowly
Left side...
Right side..
Until it got to this point
laud
New member
I haven't looked since I put them up, so I just went to take a looksee and they weren't even piano hinges, they are 4 - 1.5" hinges. They have no rust but are also about 18" off the water. I remember wanting to get piano hinges, but something happened and I was in a hurry, so I got those instead.
loyalrogue
New member
That is just beautiful.
One of the nicest stands I've seen on here... and that's coming from an oldtime finish carpenter.
I'd love to see it in person someday.
One of the nicest stands I've seen on here... and that's coming from an oldtime finish carpenter.
I'd love to see it in person someday.
laud
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15143777#post15143777 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loyalrogue
That is just beautiful.
One of the nicest stands I've seen on here... and that's coming from an oldtime finish carpenter.
I'd love to see it in person someday.
I live right down the street. You are welcome anytime. Thanks for the compliments too! You've got to promise not to look at the detail work. LOL
carlosngloria
Active member
thats good. cause the stock hinges on my 210 stand and canopy are showing rust in a little over a year.
laud
New member
Now the lighting. There are 3 Lumenbright reflectors with 250w reeflux 12k bulbs. Supplemented with 2 UVI 110w super actinic VHO's.
I used those hangers that can go up and down to be able to lift off the top when necessary.
An up shot of the lighting. The VHO's are mounted to the inside of the canopy.
My constant helpers.
I used those hangers that can go up and down to be able to lift off the top when necessary.
An up shot of the lighting. The VHO's are mounted to the inside of the canopy.
My constant helpers.
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laud
New member
I chose 250's and the LB's because of heat and supposed PAR efficiency. I didn't want to need a chiller. I haven't had to either. Hurricanes and termite tentings kinda scare me where heat is concerned.
In mid summer, my temp range is from 79 to 82 degrees. Winter nights are more of a concern than summer max's. I do have that little fan blowing 1/2 hour after the MH's come on until they go off at night.
In mid summer, my temp range is from 79 to 82 degrees. Winter nights are more of a concern than summer max's. I do have that little fan blowing 1/2 hour after the MH's come on until they go off at night.
Fish2reef
New member
The upgrade started with Rogger's old 210 but first had to remodel the kitchen, dinning and living room (completed). I have the frame of the stand stained and sealed with the tank sitting on it plus all the equipment, pending the sump to then do all the plumbing and skin. I will start a build thread when I see a firm completion date.
