LED Fixture Build --Kcress--

If you like the snorkel look you will hate the color combo you are going with. Sunlight is full spectrum don't forget. The LEDs you are using are not. If you look at my build my goal was to accomplish a full spectrum output. What I got was a white light with very good color rendering.

If you want the snorkel look you may want to stick with you halide.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puVvkbdDCn8
 
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Nice... how do you plan on bending them?

CJ

By hand. Lean on them. Hard!


If you like the snorkel look you will hate the color combo you are going with. Sunlight is full spectrum don't forget. The LEDs you are using are not. If you look at my build my goal was to accomplish a full spectrum output. What I got was a white light with very good color rendering.

If you want the snorkel look you may want to stick with you halide.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puVvkbdDCn8


That looks nice. What DID you end up doing?







prjct92eh2; Stay tuned!

thor32766; Thanks.




Get bent!!

Well OK!

kdg1xx3yjq.jpg


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Now, where are my LEDs...
 
I got the LEDs installed.

Here's a closeup of one.

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Notice that if you just use the right size flathead screws you don't need the hassle of washers.

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Here's a group.

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And the full herd!


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On to soldering next.
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Nice.

I assume your soldering skills are equal to your engineering skills, because a single tiny sloppy solder job near one of those screws could cause you some sweet headache ;)

I personally hate using screws on LEDs, but then again, in your CNC situation, it's almost silly not to use them. Just too simple to have the CNC do it.


I love this!
 
I did the same and just screwed them in with #4 screws without washers using self tapping screws.

Here is my thread:
Yet another LED build

And really, I have very little soldering experience. I learned how to do it 20 years ago in college and haven't done it since until now :)


If you look at the stars it seems like they were planning for #4 screws to be used to hold the LED's. And yes, I recommend to test each LED for a short - but even without screws I would have done that ...
 
TheFishMan: Actually, yes, I found one of my LED's to be soldered on backwards onto the star (+/- were switched). If you look in my thread on the first pic you might be able to see it (3'rd from teh bottom right on the right long row of the rack).

Like I said, I would meassure the LED's all anyways for a short / LED direction before turning on the juice - so screwing them in seems like low risk to me :)

kCress: if you don't want to sell do you want to share the DWG so we can upload it to emachineshop.com? (I am curious what they would charge for such a CNC job :))
 
So awesome! It took me a while to read your "elevator tank" thread, but now I am subscribed to both threads.

I can't wait to see pictures. As you well know Kcress, I also share the preference of the Hawaiian snorkeling look.
 
nice project tagging along.

Thanks!



Nice.

I assume your soldering skills are equal to your engineering skills, because a single tiny sloppy solder job near one of those screws could cause you some sweet headache ;)

I personally hate using screws on LEDs, but then again, in your CNC situation, it's almost silly not to use them. Just too simple to have the CNC do it.


I love this!

Yes my soldering skilz are good. It comes from having to solder things like the following.

l713b43yai.gif


Notice the two parts J5 and J8? See the the pin separation? It's 8 thousandths of an inch! Each of these widgets had four of these. I had to solder a bunch of them. Each one took 45 minutes. Keep in mind the smallest diameter solder you can buy is 20 thousands in diameter.. These were not fun.


That's why I use nylon screws......it solves a lot of problems.

Scott

Yeah. But I see the nylon washers as possibly hiding something underneath I want to see. Plus threading them on all the screws is a bit time consuming. But they certainly work.



Here I thought you would bend them up. You gonna polish those petals? :p

If I bent them up they couldn't act as reflectors.
Polish..? AHAHAHAHAHAHAAH
2pt4b3o.gif



I did the same and just screwed them in with #4 screws without washers using self tapping screws.

Here is my thread:
Yet another LED build

And really, I have very little soldering experience. I learned how to do it 20 years ago in college and haven't done it since until now :)


If you look at the stars it seems like they were planning for #4 screws to be used to hold the LED's. And yes, I recommend to test each LED for a short - but even without screws I would have done that ...

Nice build. I've been following it.

Yes the star notches are #4 sized but I didn't want any contact with the top or crowding of the terminal pads so I used #2 flat head screws - which means their undersides are conical shaped so there is no flat bottom pressing on the top of the stars.

As for soldering. These take some adjustment from standard soldering due to the major thermal transfer. I had to alter my methods a bit. Those Luxdrive stars are absolute $**&^$^*@!! to solder. Thanks to the idiots who think we can't use lead safely. They are 'tinned' with lead free solder.. That's why they are so hard to work with.

There has also been the rare case of the LED being soldered on backwards.

Yes! It's so fast and easy to test the LEDs it's almost obscene not to. I just set my meter to diode test and methodically run down every one of them. On this build it will probably take all of 60 seconds.


TheFishMan: Actually, yes, I found one of my LED's to be soldered on backwards onto the star (+/- were switched). If you look in my thread on the first pic you might be able to see it (3'rd from teh bottom right on the right long row of the rack).

Like I said, I would meassure the LED's all anyways for a short / LED direction before turning on the juice - so screwing them in seems like low risk to me :)

kCress: if you don't want to sell do you want to share the DWG so we can upload it to emachineshop.com? (I am curious what they would charge for such a CNC job :))

Let's see if it works first! Man, that place would probably charge $400 for one. Every time I check there I leave reeling.



So awesome! It took me a while to read your "elevator tank" thread, but now I am subscribed to both threads.

I can't wait to see pictures. As you well know Kcress, I also share the preference of the Hawaiian snorkeling look.

Thanks for the kudos. When we make it to Hawaii we get up, eat, go to the target snorkeling spot and snorkel until hunger over takes us. We crawl out, eat bag lunch, and slither back in until it's too dark to see. Crawl out, eat dinner, sleep. Wake up and repeat at the next snorkeling spot. Seven days... Get on plane. LOL
 
Kcress,

I'm interested to seehow you like the color. I just finished a 100 LEd build for a 135 (I'll post details later). I started with a 50/50 mix of XP-G CW and XR-E RB all driven at ~850 ma. Way too blue for my taste! My pink, red, & purple corals were now brownish compared to the VHOs (50/50 actinics & aquasuns). Blues & greens were great, even stunning! Lots of fluorescence too. I replaced 12 CWs with 12 NWs and it looks better but still not great. I will replace 12 or more or maybe all of the CWs with NWs. Alternatively, I may try 12 WWs. Look forward to thoughts on your own colors once your up and running.

Bob
 
Neogenocide; Nylon screws give me the creeps. :p I'm afraid the nylon will cold creep and relax over time. Which would allow the star to relax away from the heatsink. I'm watching the nylon crowd with interest.


After screwing all the LEDs on I ran down all the LEDs with a meter on Diode Test. This confirmed they all work and are all oriented the way I think they are. Now, when I start soldering I don't have to look at the pluses or minuses - just the orientation. I just solder the closest pads on adjacent LEDs.

Here, I've managed to solder all the LEDs together.
At the ends that are positive I switched to yellow wire to denote positive, which prevents wiring accidents when I turn it all over and can't see which wire goes where.



34y8xab70l.jpg




Then once soldered I ran the exact same Diode Test run down them all. Then I ran the diode test with one lead on the aluminum chassis and used the other on both LED connections. I wanted no continuity from the chassis to any LED pad. I had none!

Time for a rough test. I jacked one string into one of my lab supplies, then I slowly raised the voltage until the LEDs just came on.


7os1b591n4.jpg



Which was about 50mA. Interesting..


segjqhrgu3.jpg



Then I cranked up to 500mA, the supply's maximum. I waited a few minutes. I expected the aluminum to get warm. It didn't. I'll have to see if more drive makes a big difference.


ley6oc2hqr.jpg



Left side test.


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All works! Nice surprise.

Next I have to flip it over and put on the driver, resistors and fuses.
 
Looking good!!! And on the nylon screws.....been running mine for around a year now on one set of lights, and 6 months on a seconds set of lights without any problems. I get them good and snug, which will stretch the screw a bit, no chance they will back off. I trust them to hold on the wings of my $$$ rc planes, I trust them in this application as well. :-)

Scott
 
OK Scott. But I'm not riding on any of your R/Cs!!! LOL

A way to monitor them is to keep an eye on the heatsink temperature over time. If, with no changes, the heatsink starts running cooler it means the LEDs are becoming less-connected to it. Of course you can also re-tighten them.

I'd have a hard time getting those nylon screws to self-thread the aluminum...
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