LEDBrick Project - DIY pendant w/ pucks

[akeika]

Box of goodies arrived today Packaged all nice, neat, and orderly. Power supply should be here later in the week. Heat sinks next if all goes has planned.

These 4 will go over a 240 gallon 30" tall with a pair of pre-existing Borealis Luxeon Z Arrays. These new ones will be using the lenses while the Borealis are free since they have more lime color. With all six running I'm hoping to get a good spread with adjustability via PWM and my controller. The Acro's very well may over power or offer more control in which case I'll order another pair

please take a photo with the new light

Отправлено с моего HUAWEI MT2-L05 через Tapatalk

 

[ravi197699]

Yeah, I considered that and he also offered. I'm thinking that I should be able to dial in both the intensity and spectrum between the 4 channels based on my current chips. I should also be able to lower the lights compared to how high I have them today. I'm sitting about 16" above the waterline over the current 40 breeder and not hitting max mA. I think maybe my Royal Blue channel is pushing 90 with the rest between 50 and 80%.

Was hoping my heat sinks would arrive today so I could work on them but it doesn't look like they will arrive this weekend. Tuesday it seems. What size is your tanks foot print?

My tank size is 350 gal which is 48" x 48" x 32" high, I am currently using 36"x36" fixture that I have put together with 1/2" copper pipe and I have soldered copper discs on the pipes and then glued cree 3w led's on the disks, I have total 100 led's all over the fixtuer with all the available colors and it is water cooled fixture, I am pretty happy but I always look for new projects and this might be good one to mess with, I have 5 heatsinks that I have bought from ebay, They are 2.5" wide X 5" long and made out of extruded aluminum with 1.5" solid surface in the middle, But fixture he is sending me for trial is already put together (plug and play) I will post pictures of the spread and colors when I get the fixtue...

 

[ravi197699]

Box of goodies arrived today Packaged all nice, neat, and orderly. Power supply should be here later in the week. Heat sinks next if all goes has planned.

These 4 will go over a 240 gallon 30" tall with a pair of pre-existing Borealis Luxeon Z Arrays. These new ones will be using the lenses while the Borealis are free since they have more lime color. With all six running I'm hoping to get a good spread with adjustability via PWM and my controller. The Acro's very well may over power or offer more control in which case I'll order another pair

Question - I see that you are using his drivers as well and as per my understanding these are 1000ma each, Since you can run 12 3w led's with each driver are you going to utilize the full potential of these drivers of you are goinng to use 1 driver to run 1 channel?

 

[Herry]

Yup! The metal core PCBs used for LEDs are a bit more specialty, but its a LOT more common to get them from Chinese outfits.

Step 1 is to design the board. Common in the DIY / Hobby community is Eagle, but you can use KiCad, DIPTrace, CircuitMaker, etc. For LEDs, make sure the board is single layer and no soldered components going through the board.

As for making them, once you have the design files (commonly Gerber files + NC drill file, lots of tutorials for the various software on how to export that), do a little shopping.

For low qty (3) small boards, I love using OSHPark.com, the boards are a nice purple, its a US business and uses US manufacturers. Support and quality are excellent. Free USPS shipping and you get to collect all their stickers They however will not do metal PCBs.

For standard PCBs, you can check all the prototype volume pricing pretty easily with http://pcbshopper.com/

For metal PCBs, I've used both PCBway.com and Gold Phoenix (both China). Both have online quote forms once you know the rough size.

Yes, the best starting point is PCBShopper, I personally get pcb prototype on Seeed Studio.

 

[theatrus]

Some small status updates:

- I'm likely going to discontinue the original 4 channel driver. It was a V1 and needed some more love - I'll replace it with a four channel version of the existing LM3414 adjustable micro driver.

- A number of other factors slowed down product development (including making manufacturing more scalable for me!). I've solved some major time sinks and optimized how I build the most popular products. :rollface:

- The aforementioned optimization has basically meant there was zero development on the lighting controller project. The firmware is effectively complete, but the interface product was effectively testing only (no mere mortal could use it), and it was worse on Android. The good news is that the Web Bluetooth standard has gotten pretty far in the intervening months, so OS X/Linux and Android Marshmallow and above are now well supported (no Windows yet), which means its much easier to maintain a configuration app as a simple web page. This uses the Bluetooth interface of our phone/computer/tablet, and still remains Internet of Things free (no service to go down, security issues which plague the industry, etc).

- New stuff is coming!

 

[Poseidon]

That's awesome news! I can't wait to see the new goodies.

 

[perkint]

Sounds very interesting. Hoping to have a play with the ESP32 myself soon, so hearing Bluetooth access from web page has become easier is definitely good news

Tim

 

[vitreous]

Just wondering when you expect more drivers in.

 

[lingwendil]

Custom arrangement on the Luxeon C boards-

3x royal blue, 1x semiLEDs violet, and 1x mint, 1x blue, 1x royal blue, 1x 90CRI 5700k white. Both channels driven equally looks just like a 20k Radium :thumbsup:

Installed on a heatsink from rapidLED, the multichip in the middle is just a moonlight.

Hard to get accurate pics, but this Blenny has patterns and color I haven't even seen before. These pics don't do it justice. My montipora also turned from a full brown and green to a pink and green. Very pleased!

 

[theatrus]

Looks very nice!

Edit: Saw even balance, nevermind
-What ratio are you running the two channels at? -

I've had a lot of luck with brown monti caps taking on greens and purple edges under a similar light ratio.

 

[lingwendil]

I am very, very happy with these arrays! I might consider adding a cyan on each side (dimmed low!) but I am very happy as it sits now.

Am I safe in running the blue/violet channel at 1A? I've seen the semiLED violets usually recommended to be run at 700-800mA max... If so I might put in a pair of LDD-1000-L to replace the (originally supposed to be temporary) LM337 current sinks I'm running now so I can get this thing dimmable/adjustable.

Also, can you do warm whites with the C boards yet? I'm considering a set of planted arrays at some point, and like the whites and mints on these boards.

Do you have a link to the datasheet for these particular 90CRI whites you put on these boards for me? If I'm not mistaken they are 5600k, or are they 5000k or something else?

 

[pfoxgrover]

Wow. Great thread!!! I have been trying to get information via email to his website and not gotten a responce.
Do you think I could get away with passive heat sink like this one for the 48w puck? It has a heat pipe in the center and is rated for 80 to 120W led. They also have bigger ones

I am working on a 375 gallon build (5' x 5' x 2') and want either 9 or 16 pendant lights in a grid without fans if possible. This is what I have on my current 240 gallon SPS reef. I have 6 of them but want to upgrade.

I would like to reuse these heatsinks but not sure they would work as well as the one like the first picture. I would hate to burn up expensive pucks.

I would appreciate any advice and would like to hear updates on the product line or restock timeline for the Mega4Z pro.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[oreo57]

Wow. Great thread!!! I have been trying to get information via email to his website and not gotten a responce.

Interesting stuff.........

http://hengjietc.gmc.globalmarket.c...adiator-200w-core-of-heat-column-8391628.html


80W, slightly different
http://hengjietc.gmc.globalmarket.c...-80w-d200h70-core-of-heat-column-1706622.html
http://hengjietc.gmc.globalmarket.c...-80w-d200h70-core-of-heat-column-9507654.html

hmmm 10yr lifespan..and then liquid is gone???

 

[pfoxgrover]

Interesting stuff.........


hmmm 10yr lifespan..and then liquid is gone???

I had not seen the lifespan was limited.

Those look nice as well. The one i found is here.
https://gentwin.en.alibaba.com/product/60723501518-805770687/120_180W_RSH_Series_Aluminum_Extrusion_LED_Heatsink_for_LED_High_Bay_Light.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.32.66516868P1xvUO

 

[theatrus]

Wow. Great thread!!! I have been trying to get information via email to his website and not gotten a responce.
Do you think I could get away with passive heat sink like this one for the 48w puck? It has a heat pipe in the center and is rated for 80 to 120W led. They also have bigger ones

I am working on a 375 gallon build (5' x 5' x 2') and want either 9 or 16 pendant lights in a grid without fans if possible. This is what I have on my current 240 gallon SPS reef. I have 6 of them but want to upgrade.

I would like to reuse these heatsinks but not sure they would work as well as the one like the first picture. I would hate to burn up expensive pucks.

I would appreciate any advice and would like to hear updates on the product line or restock timeline for the Mega4Z pro.
Thanks,
Paul

Paul,

Had a few bootstrapping problems and some other issues, but am back into it now. Yes, those heatsinks would work great and likely be just fine passive.

 

[theatrus]

Just a note, I've swapped over any use of the Luxeon Z UV series LEDs to the new Luxeon UV U1 LEDs: same footprint, higher efficiency, and slightly lower cost. I'm going to be slightly revising pricing downard on a few items due to this new line.

https://www.lumileds.com/products/uv-leds/luxeon-uv-u-line

 

[lingwendil]

Sweet.

Hope to see you incorporate some emitters from the Sunplus series too

I'll gladly be a guinea pig for a freshwater layout with them on one of your pucks, I use a few already and really like the sunplus series.

 

[saf1]

Just a note, I've swapped over any use of the Luxeon Z UV series LEDs to the new Luxeon UV U1 LEDs: same footprint, higher efficiency, and slightly lower cost. I'm going to be slightly revising pricing downard on a few items due to this new line.

https://www.lumileds.com/products/uv-leds/luxeon-uv-u-line

How will they compare to the acrostar pro's? Here is an image - finally got everything sorted out today. Grounding issue caused the flicker - one of the downsides of DIY and not being an electrician Thanks for the help btw. I don't know what intensity these are at when I snapped the phone image but I don't have the Apex going over 91%. I think this was around 70 - 75%. Are you going to be adding in anymore green / lime?

I'll be moving over the pair of Borelias multi channels that I have over the 40 breeder once the cycle is complete. They have 12 limes each and my existing corals seems to respond well to them. That and I have them adjusted down. I'm thinking they will blend in fine with your chips.

Do you use the diffusers? I'm not sure if I like them with the diffusers cover or without and just the lenses. In either case your lights pack a punch. I'm excited.

 

[pfoxgrover]

Paul,

Had a few bootstrapping problems and some other issues, but am back into it now. Yes, those heatsinks would work great and likely be just fine passive.

I had given up on you. Glad to hear you are back at it. I'm excited to try out your products.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[Poseidon]

Put together another light for a friend, 6 AcroStars over a 180 with 2 T5 Blue plus, controlled by a Bluefish. You have a 2nd happy customer in my circle of reef friends now.