Leonardo's Lagoon

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14482686#post14482686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_


Green Thumb; I used large Schuran Ca-Reactor media which I soaked for several months in RO?DI (while replacing the water regulary) It didn't prevent some traces of PO4 in the eflluent of the reactor.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can't entirely eliminate it because it is part of the process of going into solution as I understand it, but you can greatly reduce it which means the GFO will last a lot longer.

Leonardo, will you use GFO in this new system? I ask because it has been in th eback of my mind that while GFO reduces PO4, it may still encourage algal growth just for the fact that it is a source of iron. I have no idea what if any breakdown of the media amounts to in terms of introducing iron into a system, but I would assume that it is possible.

Any thoughts on this?
 
I've always used GFO in my systems. Not very much, about 3 tablespoons for 180 Gallon, changed once a week. I see less algaefilm forming on the glass when I use it. Although I think it releases some Iron in the water I only experienced a reduce in algae, not a increase.

Leonardo
 
hmmm...maybe I am using too much! I put in an entire 795g bottle but I only swa it out once per month. Perhaps less media but more swaps would be better.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14479296#post14479296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Looking great Leonardo, and I am keenly interested in your superset of Balling method. This is something I am researching for exactly the same reasons as you point out.

Green Thumb: You can soak out the PO4, at least most of it, by soaking the media in RO/DI water. I use the Gen-X Coral Bones with 2 x 3.65l containers in the reactor at a time. Before I put new media in, I soak it in RO/DI for 24 hours, then test the water for PO4. Then I swap the water with fresh RO/DI and soak for another day. I repeat this for as many days as it takes to get a zero PO4 test result (using Merk/D-D) which is usually 3 - 4 days.

This lowers the amount of PO4 coming off the media and greatly extends the life of my GFO.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Ive done this in the past as well with success. I was also wondering if the coarse A.R.M. media has been tried in the reactor? It is said to have less PO4. Im thinking of switching over to the ARM coarse media or equivalent using my schuran1 and was wondering if somebody had tried this type of media using a schuran reactor?
 
Green Thumb; You can always try Aqua Medic Hydrocarbonat or Deltec RowaLith-C. A bit harder to dissolve but (almost) no phosphate at all.

Leonardo
 
My LFS gave me a new product to try out. Reef-Actif from Tropic Marin.

Let's make this clear, usually I'm not a big fan of all these addditives, but I will give it a try for some time. I won't use their other product, Reef Snow.

__________________
Info from website:

"Tropic Marin® has discovered a special group of compounds for saltwater aquariums. These marine biopolymers are long chain molecules produced by organisms in response to the specific challenges presented by their unique marine environment.

By incorporating these long chain marine biopolymers, the new products, REEF ACTIF and PRO-CORAL REEF SNOW greatly increase and maintain the vitality and colour of corals and reef clams while providing other filter feeding animals with an optimal nutrient source. In addition, both products contribute to a significant improvement in the water quality of saltwater aquaria."
Link for product info.
__________________


Any experiences with this product yet?

Leonardo
 
kind of scary description if you ask me. "Special group of compounds"?? I will be interested to see what happens. Any time I try some new additive, nothing happens, but I think mostly due to system size.
 
I know Jonathan, it sounds kind of scary. ;) Thats why I don't use Zeo, they don't list the compounds of the additives and the concentration of it. (understandable though...)

I start with half the prescribed amount and keep a close eye on my corals. I just searched for some experiences/feedback, and some hobbyists in Germany have good experiences with it. I feel safe to give it a try for a while ;)

Leonardo
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14503947#post14503947 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_
Green Thumb; You can always try Aqua Medic Hydrocarbonat or Deltec RowaLith-C. A bit harder to dissolve but (almost) no phosphate at all.

Leonardo
Click to expand...

Thanks Leo, yes I was thinking of using that stuff if i someday discover that I have a PO4 issue. This media being tougher to dissolve than the reef skeletons I imagine will require more CO2 to dissolve and that will undesirably lower PH? Is that what you experienced?

Its interesting how much emphasis people make on PO4 like its the root of all evil in the reef. Somehow I dont know if I agree with this, and it might be out of total ignorance of chemistry or luck, but for some reason Ive always just ran carbon and a nice size refugium using cheato without problems of cyano or any visible slowing in SPS coral growth. Take a look at Chingchai's tank from thailand, last I checked he wasnt using GFO either without PO4 problems? His tank seems to be doing amazing...

One other detail that hits me as odd is, well, we consider PO4 bad but then why is it a part of coral skeletons? Could it not be just as usefull as magnesium or other trace elements? Part of the building blocks that form coral skeletons? Maybe im off the deep end with this one?.. But these are my opinions and experiences... In any case surely excesive PO4 slows down coral growth but surely some is consumed by corals?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14503991#post14503991 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_
My LFS gave me a new product to try out. Reef-Actif from Tropic Marin.

Let's make this clear, usually I'm not a big fan of all these addditives, but I will give it a try for some time. I won't use their other product, Reef Snow.

__________________
Info from website:

"Tropic Marin® has discovered a special group of compounds for saltwater aquariums. These marine biopolymers are long chain molecules produced by organisms in response to the specific challenges presented by their unique marine environment.

By incorporating these long chain marine biopolymers, the new products, REEF ACTIF and PRO-CORAL REEF SNOW greatly increase and maintain the vitality and colour of corals and reef clams while providing other filter feeding animals with an optimal nutrient source. In addition, both products contribute to a significant improvement in the water quality of saltwater aquaria."
Link for product info.
__________________


Any experiences with this product yet?

Leonardo
Click to expand...

Definitely be careful when using that stuff. A friend of mines tank just turned bad and he had been using coral snow along with something else for a few weeks prior. Surely many factors to be considered which I wasnt able to make clear while speaking to this friend but heads up while using it for sure.
 
Coral snow can mean many things every brand is different. And your right corals do need phosphates to survive.
 
Green Thumb; I think you are talking about coral-snow from Zeovit. Corals do need some phosphate for their symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae), but not for the forming of their skeleton. Phosphates chemically mix in with Calcium Carbonate, this is purely a chemical process. That's why it is found in CACO3 skeletons.

I do see PO4 as one of the chemicals that limits coral growth, besides a low pH.
I think that a succesfull reefkeeper can have several methods to keep PO4 low. This can be little feeding, Refugia, strong skimming etc. I thought I didn't have a problem with high PO4, but when I decided to take some actions to lower it even more I only experienced better coral growth.

The media I described (Rowalith-C and AM Hydrocarbonat) desire a lower pH to dissolve (pH 6,2-6,3), but with a longer reaction time in the Reactor chamber (+5 hours) you minimize CO2 and a low pH in the tank. This may mean you have to enlarge the volume of your CaRX.

Leonardo
 
any chance you could snap some pics of your overflow in action. I would love to see it doing it's thing

Edit: also what is the length between the 12" baffle and the back wall?
 
Last edited:
Giga; Will make some pics for you tomorrow!

The overflow is on the left side of the tank, front to back. What do you mean with the length between the baffle and the back wall?

btw, love your new idea of the dual tanks with the spotlights! I keep a close eye to your project! :)

Leonardo
 
43.3" overflow:

IMG_2291.jpg


overflow.jpg


Leonardo
 
Yes, I am happy with it. It is the first reactor I use so I don't have any comparison. Maybe the next time I will buy a kalk stirrer (without a pump, just a small stirrer) because of less electricity use. But that is a minor issue.

Leonardo
 
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