Leonardo's Lagoon

[Machado deSousa]

Leonardo, if your lighting is directly connected to the timer is not there the risk of your timer over warm or burn if the power crossing the timer is higher than what it can resist? Have you verified the wattage connected to your timers versus the maximum that they can resist? I hope you understand why I was referring the contactor as an important auxiliary device. Please, sorry insisting on this.

 

[Leonardo_]

The timers can handle the wattage, I checked that twice Thanks for asking and thinking with me.

The corals took a bigger hit than I expected. I lost some more corals over the last weeks.

Leonardo

 

[Machado deSousa]

Very sorry to hear this!

 

[ksed]

Leonardo

As it was talked about before I think the 2 timers in series is your safest bet.
As one set of contacts stay in the closed position the other will open, all you need to do is set them 5 minutes apart.
Also another consideration is using commercial grade timers which are generally used in refrigeration. You can also find them at an electrical supplier. Generally the contacts are of higher quality enabling them to handle high amps.
Just some thoughts.

Kevin

 

[Leonardo_]

Machado, thank you. But sometimes you need such disasters to change things drastically. It will always be better in the end

Hello Kevin, I agree that will be the most safe option. I'll also have a look at the commercial grade timers, maybe they can give me some more safety.

Leonardo

 

[Kellsindell]

I watched the vid and I had to laugh. that nem is almost the size of my 55g!

 

[robcampman]

after talking to you on the marine-aquarium-event i thought lets give him a visit on the reefcentral thread..

I hope the lagoon will get to where it was before the lighting drama.. I'm pretty sure you know how to make it look beautifull again..

Your tank has inpsired me to remove the rock from my main-display, so only live coral is seen.

cheers,

rob

 

[Taqpol]

Hi Leonardo, I just started reading this thread and have only got through the first ten pages, but when I skipped to the end I discovered that your tank just went through a major tragedy. I want to extend my condolences to you and tell you that I think its great that you are already preparing to rebuild.

I do have some questions about your original tank construction from way back on Page 2:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12880052#post12880052 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_

Left side shot (CD case in the back for comparison)

Thanks for viewing,

Leonardo

In this picture it looks like you have some sort metal support around the corners, what is that and do you still have it on your tank?

I plan on building a glass cube on a much smaller scale (18"x18"x15" or 24"x18"x15'") and was wondering if you think I could get away with going rimless. If so, what thickness glass do you think I will need, and will the above posted dimensions work out for me? If you had to build another glass tank would you go rimless?

 

[drifty]

I had a similar thing happen to my t5 setup. My timers could handle the wattage when the bulbs were running but not the start up wattage which was a lot more. I fried 3 timers which would turn on but not off and the contacts got melted. I ended up getting an electrician to make a timer for me with a relay in it which handled the huge wattage on start up.

Good luck getting things back on track

 

[Leonardo_]

Thanks Rob! Good luck with the build.

Alex, thank you. Like I said before, sometimes you need a disaster to make big changes.
The edges on the sides are nothing but glued-on PVC strips. I think the builder thought it looked good
Of course I removed them after I moved the tank to it's final place.

I would never go back to braced tanks. Rimless tanks looks much cleaner and modern, especially when you want to use a open-top tank. Otherwise it don't add much of course...
I really like the "cube of water" look and came up with it three years ago after seeing the Japanese reefs.
About the questions for your new setup: I would go for 0.35" - 0.4" of glass. Maybe a bit overkill, but better be safe then sorry I think you can do great things with that size, I would go for the 24"x18"x15'"

Drifty, thanks for the confirmation, I think the same thing has happened to me. I changed the electric setup and divided the plugs to a number of timers. I hope this won't happen again.
Thank you, I'll have some big updates in the near future.

Leonardo

 

[Leonardo_]

Soon, a new chapter of my Lagoon will begin. Everything is prepared, planned and ready to go.
The Lagoon will take another angle!

Leonardo

 

[jnarowe]

Or the buildier was trying to cover up sloppy work?

Can't wait to see 2.0!

 

[SunnyX]

I cant wait to see the changes and innovations in 2.0! :thumbsup:

 

[Felix1021]

Oh brother!
starts a countdown.
f.

 

[wismie]

We want release two !!!

Thanks :rollface:

 

[paulthomas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15307656#post15307656 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_

Soon, a new chapter of my Lagoon will begin. Everything is prepared, planned and ready to go.
The Lagoon will take another angle!

Leonardo

It looks a little windy in that photo. Oh no. Are you planning on simulating a tropical storm in your house? Can't wait to see the new development(s). :smokin:

 

[the_rider]

Any release date yet ??

Maybe we can pay some insider for a preview leak ? lol

Can't wait to see it !!

 

[Ed Reef]

Your first build was a work of ART

Your second build was an INSPIRATION

Can't wait to see what your third build brings us :lol:

 

[ksed]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15266626#post15266626 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_
Machado, thank you. But sometimes you need such disasters to change things drastically. It will always be better in the end

Hello Kevin, I agree that will be the most safe option. I'll also have a look at the commercial grade timers, maybe they can give me some more safety.

Leonardo

Leonardo

I did some calling around today, because I want to change my timers as well.
I called a company that I am familiar with called Intermatic. When I spoke with the technician he said that even though they make industrial 40amp timers, they are not approved for operation on Ballasts for lighting, although the do make a digital timer UL approved for lighting with 20 to 40 amp capacity. He was not able to explain why the other 40 amp timers were not UL approved to be run on lighting. He also strongly recommend against running residential timers even which mine are rated at 15amps. He feels the contacts are not heavy duty enough for Metal Halides.
I thought I'd share the info. If you do find other info please let us know.

Thanks

Kevin

 

[FUA]

this sounds exciting