Leonardo's Lagoon

BTW, if you want me to, I can remove the pic. I always feel bad posting pics in other peoples threads unless they have asked for them. Just let me know.
 
Thanks for your input Justin. I like the look of your tank :) I won't really create a Lagoon like you describe.
On the page before this you can see some photo's that were a creation for this project. Not really lagoons, but more shallow parts of the reef, or reef crests.
 
Thanks for all the input about the lights. I think I will use a timer to slow down the movement of the pendant.
I will have to test what speed is optimal for the eye and the livestock after I have the tank up and running.

Again, thanks for the comments.

Leonardo
 
Leonardo! I've been waiting for this thread.. Very much looking forward to updates and pics.
 
I have been using light movers from day 1 and they work great. I use them to make more efficient use of the light, and to give corals light from variable angles.

They move failry slowly and I have them mounted front-to-back so they only travel about 24" because of the wide spread of the reflectors.

I will post pics or links to pics if you like.
 
Thanks for chiming in Jonathan, I've been following your thread for some time now :)

I'm planning to use a light mover for the exact same reasons. Feel free to post a picture (maybe in a link, to keep this thread more organised) I can always use some good examples and ideas!

Leonardo
 
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You can see some light pics from the construction phase here.

Half way down this page you can see them in operation.

Sorry there really aren't any better pics that I can find.

There is another reason why I used them: I researched light racks extensively and came to feel that in my situation, it would be best to have each lamp on it's own track. This is primarily due to the low ceiling and tall skimmer, so logistically, moving an entire light rack off the tank was not practical, nor do I feel it's good for the tank inhabitants.

I would rather move one light off the tank at a time, service that section, and then move the light back. This gives me enough light to work with, and I believe much less stress for the fish. So that is why my light tracks are so long. I can remove the outbound stop and have the light come completely off the tank to change lamps and clean the reflector. And just stopping the mover front or back gives me ample room to do tank maintenance.
 
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FYI the Diver's Den on liveaquaria has some guttatus right now. . . Not sure how difficult it is to find but as you said it was rather rare :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13297881#post13297881 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fry_school101
FYI the Diver's Den on liveaquaria has some guttatus right now. . . Not sure how difficult it is to find but as you said it was rather rare :D

too bad he is in Europe.
 
LHI93.jpg


go with this one lol
 
You're right Nick, I live in Europe ;) Thanks for thinking with me guys :)
A. Guttatus is expensive because the live in high surge areas making them hard to catch. (at least, the LFS told me so...)


The build is progressing slowly. I'm working to earn some $$$, and I'm studying -not a time-saving combination- ;)

The Display tank is stored in the basement, I have to hire some guys from a Moving Company to get it upstairs. It's just too heavy and risky to do it myself. (If they drop it, I'm insured :))
I'm afraid this will take another week at least.

I am working on a large RO unit for the new tank. It will be an 7 stage RO-unit, with a booster-pump and resevoir.
When the resevoir is tapped, the boosterpump will automatically switch on and refill the resevoir. That way I will always have enough RO water to use right away.

Maybe 7 stages are a bit enhausiastic, but I had all the stuff already available, and of course I'm aiming for 0 TDS.

1 Sediment
2 Sediment
3 Carbon Cartridge
4 Carbon Cartridge
5 RO-Membrane
6 Mixed bed Resin Cartridge
7 DIY Mixed Bed Resin Filter

Thanks you all for the patience, I hope I can show you a REAL update soon! ;)

Leonardo
 
I wouldn't call it overkill myself, 2 stages of sediment, a 5 then 1 micron helps keep the carbon from clogging with fine particulate, two carbons are usually recommended for "fast" water production to be extra sure it's getting the chlorine/chloramine. And two DI resins means if one gets exhausted the other can pick up the slack until you notice it.


AJ, those look like some fish I saw snorkling in Hawaii, almost invisible from the surface due to their color.
 
Wow, Leo. a 7-stage.
I've been checking back everyday for an update.

I might end up going with a similar overflow on my new shallow.
I've been playing with the idea of a smaller overflow box, but I'm
hoping to put a lot of flow on this system. To get the whole lagoon
effect.

I'll be budgeting a bit more ... like I'll be using only T5's on this
system. I've been lured in by the ATI tubes :) plus I need to save on
electricity, so MH's are out of the question.
 
NanoCube-boy; I assembled it myself from seperate components. It produces 105 Gallon/day of RO-water. Not very much, but enough for my size tank.

sfsuphysics; You're right, that is the idea behind it :) Thanks for explaning it. I don't think it's overkill also, I just build a few 'backups' into it, to make sure the RO-water is always as pure as possible.

Tritonian; It's very nice to hear you like my project :) I will also put a lot of flow on this tank; it is a reef crest biotope. The dual return pumps will produce 2500 Gallon/hour nett. I will need a large overflow to process that water in a good way.

Have you already bought the ATI tubes? I personally would go with FM Aqua-Science bulbs. I've seen them next to each other, and the Aqua-Science is a bit brighter. I don't know if they are easily available in the US though...
Don't understand me wrong, ATI bulbs are great, but if you have the choice, go for the FM Aqua-Science.
Keep me updated about your project! :)

Leonardo
 
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