let the insanity begin
- Thread starter rick rottet
- Start date
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
I still have several tanks in the house full of guppies. 
heehee, 210 gallon guppy prop tanks.
I did actually (briefly) consider growing roses or hydroponic tomato(e)s. If someone lived in a place where their source water was decent to start with AND had a little more knowledge about blower physics than what I started out with, I think they should go for a GH prop system.
Still have just the two tanks built, one thing at a time.
quote:
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Originally posted by rick rottet
Oh, I don't know about that, I'm good and I'm easy.
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But I ain't cheap!
4Texans, what is polymer flocculant? Something that sticks to stuff in the water to make it easier to precipitate or be filtered?
Not passed out in the GH, but I was helping a friend today dig a trench for a footer under a new 14' x 14' shed he is building and got kinda nauseated and lightheaded. :spin1:
The live rock vat has been around 94 the last two days. Outside air temps in the mid and high 90's, heat index around 109, air inside the GH 104. (the 104 was about 6 pm, I wasn't around to check it between noon and 3... typically that is the hottest times)
heehee, 210 gallon guppy prop tanks.I did actually (briefly) consider growing roses or hydroponic tomato(e)s. If someone lived in a place where their source water was decent to start with AND had a little more knowledge about blower physics than what I started out with, I think they should go for a GH prop system.
Still have just the two tanks built, one thing at a time.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by rick rottet
Oh, I don't know about that, I'm good and I'm easy.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
But I ain't cheap!
4Texans, what is polymer flocculant? Something that sticks to stuff in the water to make it easier to precipitate or be filtered?
Not passed out in the GH, but I was helping a friend today dig a trench for a footer under a new 14' x 14' shed he is building and got kinda nauseated and lightheaded. :spin1:
The live rock vat has been around 94 the last two days. Outside air temps in the mid and high 90's, heat index around 109, air inside the GH 104. (the 104 was about 6 pm, I wasn't around to check it between noon and 3... typically that is the hottest times)
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rick rottet said:
Yes. This is a common water treatment practice. The polymer sticks
to contaminates which makes the contaminates larger and precipitate
faster. If your source water is consistent (like one would expect
from well water) then you may even be able to select a polymer to
better target your collection of contaminates. An example would be to
use a positively charged polymer to better attack negatively charged
contaminates.
The precipitants may collect at the base of your floc tank. You could
remove them mechanically or perhaps with a large tap at the base of
the tank.
You might be able to get small amounts of different polymers to test
the results in buckets before you make a larger investment.
There are many polymers available . . .
Here are a few quick links that might be helpful.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/12624/cid/3395
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/popup.techTalkDetail/ttid/100
http://www.waterspecialists.biz/html/organic_polymer_precipitation.html
If there is a drinking water treatment facility near you that uses the
same source water, you could visit them and see what they use in their
floc tanks.
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
Treeman- Don't hate to say it, we all had that figured out last winter. Remember that psychometric chart thingy?? I have been checking out some of the evap pads online, even have some materials to make my own (remember the kitchen scrubber material and wall paper troughs?) A few issues I see just with the limited amount of knowledge that I have picked up from the guys around this thread..... 1) when the humidity goes up, the potential for evap cooling goes down. Air already saturated (or nearly so) with moisture can't hold much more water from evap. 2) When/if we use the evap pads, this puts more moisture into the air inside the GH and that lessens the amount we can evap from the tanks.
I know you are struggling down there with your geothermal, but I think this may be a viable alternative for me with the (much) cooler ground temps.
4Texans- I appreciate the info and the links. Only trouble I would have with a setup like that is I really don't have the room to set up another big vat. It all sounds like a good idea, I just don't have enough space. I live in a small town of 400 people. Our town well only supplies the town, so there isn't any treatment business close to me. In fact, there isn't anything period close to me except a gas station and a bar!
I know you are struggling down there with your geothermal, but I think this may be a viable alternative for me with the (much) cooler ground temps.
4Texans- I appreciate the info and the links. Only trouble I would have with a setup like that is I really don't have the room to set up another big vat. It all sounds like a good idea, I just don't have enough space. I live in a small town of 400 people. Our town well only supplies the town, so there isn't any treatment business close to me. In fact, there isn't anything period close to me except a gas station and a bar!
I am not sure where you live, I suspect some place in Illinois. Maybe you are inside driving distance to a city that has water treatment?
Here in Texas there are maps available to show what aquifer one's well draws from.
I suspect that any well that draws from the same aquifer would have much the contaminates in their water. (I do not know that to be true though.)
Texas Example maps:
http://www.twdb.state.tx.us/mapping/index.asp
http://www.twdb.state.tx.us/mapping/maps/pdf/MajorSurface-GroundwaterFeatures.pdf
I looked on your DNR site but did not see anything...
http://www.dnr.state.il.us/
Maybe your ag extension office has maps of this type.
Here in Texas there are maps available to show what aquifer one's well draws from.
I suspect that any well that draws from the same aquifer would have much the contaminates in their water. (I do not know that to be true though.)
Texas Example maps:
http://www.twdb.state.tx.us/mapping/index.asp
http://www.twdb.state.tx.us/mapping/maps/pdf/MajorSurface-GroundwaterFeatures.pdf
I looked on your DNR site but did not see anything...
http://www.dnr.state.il.us/
Maybe your ag extension office has maps of this type.
Treeman
New member
The biggest problem with that damn fan is when you do get corals in the tank, all it takes is a flipped breaker to lose lots of stuff. I know mine went and it went to 130 plus in the GH and about 90 in the tanks. Lost a lot of good stuff.
I don't think that it matters about not being able to have some evaporation in the GH if you have the temp down around 80. I would try it but I went the other way with the cooling and now I wish I had used the pads.
I don't think that it matters about not being able to have some evaporation in the GH if you have the temp down around 80. I would try it but I went the other way with the cooling and now I wish I had used the pads.
melev
Well-known member
Matt, I would suggest some type of method like the Aqua Controller on a battery backup. Once the power goes out, it pages you on a beeper. If the temp gets too high, it pages you. If the pH spikes, it pages you. etc...
AQ's can also sound an X-10 alarm module to get your attention, and I've got a friend that wired his front post light to blink on and off to get his (or his neighbor's) attention that the tank is in trouble, that the floor is wet, and so on.
Using a battery back up on the controller would be ideal because it doesn't draw a lot of power and should be able to communicate the problem before all power is lost. I guess the X-10 needs to be on the UPS as well, to get that signal out.
Anyway, I would look into those kinds of redundancies because I know you've got a lot of money tied up in your green house project. Losing corals - ugh!
AQ's can also sound an X-10 alarm module to get your attention, and I've got a friend that wired his front post light to blink on and off to get his (or his neighbor's) attention that the tank is in trouble, that the floor is wet, and so on.
Using a battery back up on the controller would be ideal because it doesn't draw a lot of power and should be able to communicate the problem before all power is lost. I guess the X-10 needs to be on the UPS as well, to get that signal out.
Anyway, I would look into those kinds of redundancies because I know you've got a lot of money tied up in your green house project. Losing corals - ugh!
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
There were a few more kinks to work out of the iron removal system. The second day, the system flushed and operated just as it should. On the third day (or so) that the system was running, I was out in the greenhouse filling a container to get the DI recharged and the water flowed dark solid orange for about 45 seconds. Luckily the water supply to the RO wasn't turned on because I had not yet installed the new membranes and prefilters so the orange water only went into the container. It did clear up and has been fine since then.
The fourth day, my wife said when she took her shower that morning, the water pressure in the house was way low again, so I went down to the cellar after work to check it out myself. It was all operating fine at that time, but somehow, the timer for the oxidation tank had gotten behind 2 1/2 hours. I figured it must have gotten stuck again at some point during the flush cycle like it did the first day, only this time, it had gotten past the stuck point by itself. I looked at all of the mechanisms behind the timers to see if there was something that was maybe a little too tight or if something wasn't lined up just right and noticed that instead of setting the timers according to the instructions, the installer had just set the two timers at different times of the day. One timer said it was 3 pm and the other said it was 5 pm. That shouldn't make any difference to the system, it's just a ghetto way of getting the two tanks to go through their flush cycles two hours apart. I can be a little anal about such things (especially when it is someone else messing with my stuff). I went ahead and set both timers to the correct time of day and then set the flush times according to the directions. Now, both timers read the correct time of day and flush an hour apart like the instructions say they should. Then the household water softener had to be reset to flush two hours ahead of this systems' flush times so everything would have enough water and pressure to flush adequately.
I also noticed that the house faucets seemed to be expelling air at times and guessed that the oxidation tank had enough pressure to back feed into the house water line when we were using water in the house. I just happened to have a back flow preventer (check valve) in the garage for 3/4" pipe and always have small pipe nipples laying around too, so now it is installed just past the meter for the greenhouse.
Other than all of that, this system has been smooth sailing.....so far. All of the new membranes and prefilters have been installed. The DI has been recharged. The RO was allowed to run overnight to let the membranes clear out and settle in. There has been about 1,000 gallons of product water out of the RODI so probably somewhere around 3 - 4 thousand has come through the prefilters. The sediment prefilter still looks pristine. The carbon prefilter does have a hint of color to it, although it is very light and I can't tell at this point if it is orange or if it is just the color of the carbon showing through the white over-wrapper it has. If it is orange, it is probably due to the iron removal system goes into a bypass mode when it is flushing so there may be a small amount of unoxidized water that comes through during that time. It's due for a change in any event and that is done. I purchased some more John Guest fittings and shut off valves to put on the RO so it can be shut off overnight without letting the membranes go dry. I also put some shut offs and tees in the RO waste water line and moved the flow restrictors out of the membrane housing so I could make a DIY flush kit. The RO that is under the kitchen sink has a flush kit on it and all it is - is a couple of tees with a valve so the water can bypass the flow restrictor.
The blower seems to be acting right this time around since I am not whipping it into submission by making it power up the skimmers. It sure was nice to hear all of the water bubbling again.
The fourth day, my wife said when she took her shower that morning, the water pressure in the house was way low again, so I went down to the cellar after work to check it out myself. It was all operating fine at that time, but somehow, the timer for the oxidation tank had gotten behind 2 1/2 hours. I figured it must have gotten stuck again at some point during the flush cycle like it did the first day, only this time, it had gotten past the stuck point by itself. I looked at all of the mechanisms behind the timers to see if there was something that was maybe a little too tight or if something wasn't lined up just right and noticed that instead of setting the timers according to the instructions, the installer had just set the two timers at different times of the day. One timer said it was 3 pm and the other said it was 5 pm. That shouldn't make any difference to the system, it's just a ghetto way of getting the two tanks to go through their flush cycles two hours apart. I can be a little anal about such things (especially when it is someone else messing with my stuff). I went ahead and set both timers to the correct time of day and then set the flush times according to the directions. Now, both timers read the correct time of day and flush an hour apart like the instructions say they should. Then the household water softener had to be reset to flush two hours ahead of this systems' flush times so everything would have enough water and pressure to flush adequately.
I also noticed that the house faucets seemed to be expelling air at times and guessed that the oxidation tank had enough pressure to back feed into the house water line when we were using water in the house. I just happened to have a back flow preventer (check valve) in the garage for 3/4" pipe and always have small pipe nipples laying around too, so now it is installed just past the meter for the greenhouse.
Other than all of that, this system has been smooth sailing.....so far. All of the new membranes and prefilters have been installed. The DI has been recharged. The RO was allowed to run overnight to let the membranes clear out and settle in. There has been about 1,000 gallons of product water out of the RODI so probably somewhere around 3 - 4 thousand has come through the prefilters. The sediment prefilter still looks pristine. The carbon prefilter does have a hint of color to it, although it is very light and I can't tell at this point if it is orange or if it is just the color of the carbon showing through the white over-wrapper it has. If it is orange, it is probably due to the iron removal system goes into a bypass mode when it is flushing so there may be a small amount of unoxidized water that comes through during that time. It's due for a change in any event and that is done. I purchased some more John Guest fittings and shut off valves to put on the RO so it can be shut off overnight without letting the membranes go dry. I also put some shut offs and tees in the RO waste water line and moved the flow restrictors out of the membrane housing so I could make a DIY flush kit. The RO that is under the kitchen sink has a flush kit on it and all it is - is a couple of tees with a valve so the water can bypass the flow restrictor.
The blower seems to be acting right this time around since I am not whipping it into submission by making it power up the skimmers. It sure was nice to hear all of the water bubbling again.
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
The vat now has 8 open bubbler lines in it and could easily use another eight. The black tub has a couple of air lines in it too. Check out this pic, the reflection of the pvc pipe laying across the tub looks like a baby's head. You might have to tilt your head a little to the right to get the full effect.
Does anybody else see that, or is it just the effects of some of my former pastimes?
The live rock vat is getting better, but just not quickly enough for me. It still has caramel colored gunk all over the walls and lots of dark green cyano on the rocks. At least it is bubbling and bouncing and rippling.
I pulled an all-nighter and got down to some serious cleaning again. Instead of scrubbing, I just used the handy sprayer from the slop sink to blast off the cyano. It may look like a regular kitchen sink sprayer, but it is hooked directly to 1/2" pipe, not coming through a 3/8" line from a kitchen faucet at partial force. I put some egg crate in the vat also to get the rock off of the bottom. Now if the RODI holds up, maybe I can keep up with scheduled water changes instead of letting the rock sit there for weeks and weeks at a time.
I ran out of room and had to put about 30 pounds on a separate panel on top of all the rest. I have learned some valuable lessons with this live rock. Don't overload the vat (like I did) and don't just pile the rock on the bottom (like I did). It would have been much better if I would have had maybe 200 pounds of rock in there instead of over 400. Of course, if the DI had worked like it was supposed to, and the RO hadn't become plugged with rust, maybe it wouldn't have been an issue. It probably would have been better to set this vat up in my garage or else build a solid shade cover for the vat to keep the direct sunlight off of it too. Nevertheless, any future curing will be done with much less rock, and I'm sure I will have more to learn then also.
About the only thing left to do is take care of this temperature issue. I have been banging heads with tschopp about geothermal calculations, (actually, he did all of the calculating - thanks allot for all of your time). As near as we can figure, this place will ned about a five ton geothermal system when it gets all of the tanks full. I spoke on the phone with Treeman about his geothermal and some other ideas that each of us had been thinking about. I got on the phone with some local HVAC companies to try and figure flow rates, system capacities, pipe lengths, pump sizing, thermostatic controls, etc. A couple of the companies wouldn't even touch it. One said he didn't install enough of the systems to be able to give me an accurate guess but gave me a referral to another company, one I had already called and was supposed to be getting a factory rep involved in the calculations. He says that this time of year, the soil temperatures two feet away from the underground loop measure 90 degrees. He also said he didn't think a system that just circulates and doesn't use a heat pump would be effective. I thought (and so did tschopp, that if the underground loop was long enough, it would work. I talked with another guy who said for his five ton units, he drills five well holes 150 feet deep each, so there is 300 feet of 1" vertical pipe in each hole for a total of 1500 feet underground. They run from a big pump to a 1 1/2" manifold, then to each well hole separately with the 1" pipe. That is also with a heat pump but tschopp guesses if I ran about 3 X that amount of pipe underground, it might be enough. He also says if I can drill deep enough to hit groundwater, it would be more efficient since water transfers heat away from the pipe more efficiently than soil. My groundwater is about 250 feet deep and the HVAC guys tell me it is pretty constant at 54 degrees year round. (But my tap water is still 65 in summer) I have a friend in the well drilling business, (the guy who loaned me his big hammer drill when I was putting my water and electric lines through the cellar foundation), who says he would give me deal on the drilling, but it would still be pretty expensive just to drill the holes and drilling 15 holes around the greenhouse doesn't exactly excite me either. I could probably drill 9 since the holes would be 250 feet deep instead of 150, but at $2 or a little more per foot, it adds up. I could do a horizontal loop myself with the excavator, but it would have to start pretty deep. If the soil heats up to 90 degrees for a two foot diameter around the pipe, the loops would need to be separated by at least four feet if I put multiple loops in the same pit. I could do one long run with a trencher but they are slow, I would be trenching up most of my back yard (again) and it is difficult to make turns with them. It took me seven hours to go 160 (or 180) feet from my house to the greenhouse. I could have my well drilling friend bring his big riding trencher, but then it's back to expensive.
There was also a guy I was emailing with who is talking about climate controlling my greenhouse with geothermal. I think he was trying to get me into a heat pump system so I could use it both summer and winter. He says for every $1,000 I am currently spending on propane, he can cut it to $250. Yeah, that's what I need, an air conditioned greenhouse. HA
I could try using the tap water in a loop instead of the geothermal. I had talked about that with H2OENG and then revisited the idea with tschopp when he told me David was using a tap water chiller on his 900 gallon tank. The water in Robert's is very cheap, but even if I plumb the warm side of the loop to the RO, there will be a considerable amount of waste water and I just don't think I have the drainage capacity for it.
Treeman thinks I should go ahead and set up the evap pads (swamp cooler) in front of the shutters like I had originally planned just to test it and see what that will do. Treeman, you were right, I must have been following the diagonal line for volume down to the temperature reading instead of the vertical line. That is how I got the 30% humidity at 95 degrees. According to that psychrometric chart, (when it is being read correctly!!) for a wet bulb temp at 85, with 70% humidity, the temp can get up to 94 degrees and I should be OK. That might just be enough to say good enough. I already have the materials to DIY the pads so it won't cost me any more than I have already spent. Maybe those pads and the airlift tubes would get me there now that I have the shade cloth on. Since I am a big fan of starting as cheap as possible and then "sneaking up" on the final design, I think that is what I will try. I have to get something going or I will be rehashing all of this next summer.
Hey cseeton, I notice the chart says "sea level". Do the numbers change to any great degree with altitude, or is it just the barometric pressure equivalent of sea level???
I must stand in error about the pool temps as well (seldon). I said a few pages back that I had noticed the pool at 83 (i think). Well, I noticed a few times this summer the pool thermometer was up to 89. I still wonder how much I could cool it down at night with spray (I assume the psychrometric chart would hold true for the pool as well??) or shade it to keep it cooler so it could be a back up plan.
Does anybody else see that, or is it just the effects of some of my former pastimes?
The live rock vat is getting better, but just not quickly enough for me. It still has caramel colored gunk all over the walls and lots of dark green cyano on the rocks. At least it is bubbling and bouncing and rippling.
I pulled an all-nighter and got down to some serious cleaning again. Instead of scrubbing, I just used the handy sprayer from the slop sink to blast off the cyano. It may look like a regular kitchen sink sprayer, but it is hooked directly to 1/2" pipe, not coming through a 3/8" line from a kitchen faucet at partial force. I put some egg crate in the vat also to get the rock off of the bottom. Now if the RODI holds up, maybe I can keep up with scheduled water changes instead of letting the rock sit there for weeks and weeks at a time.
I ran out of room and had to put about 30 pounds on a separate panel on top of all the rest. I have learned some valuable lessons with this live rock. Don't overload the vat (like I did) and don't just pile the rock on the bottom (like I did). It would have been much better if I would have had maybe 200 pounds of rock in there instead of over 400. Of course, if the DI had worked like it was supposed to, and the RO hadn't become plugged with rust, maybe it wouldn't have been an issue. It probably would have been better to set this vat up in my garage or else build a solid shade cover for the vat to keep the direct sunlight off of it too. Nevertheless, any future curing will be done with much less rock, and I'm sure I will have more to learn then also.
About the only thing left to do is take care of this temperature issue. I have been banging heads with tschopp about geothermal calculations, (actually, he did all of the calculating - thanks allot for all of your time). As near as we can figure, this place will ned about a five ton geothermal system when it gets all of the tanks full. I spoke on the phone with Treeman about his geothermal and some other ideas that each of us had been thinking about. I got on the phone with some local HVAC companies to try and figure flow rates, system capacities, pipe lengths, pump sizing, thermostatic controls, etc. A couple of the companies wouldn't even touch it. One said he didn't install enough of the systems to be able to give me an accurate guess but gave me a referral to another company, one I had already called and was supposed to be getting a factory rep involved in the calculations. He says that this time of year, the soil temperatures two feet away from the underground loop measure 90 degrees. He also said he didn't think a system that just circulates and doesn't use a heat pump would be effective. I thought (and so did tschopp, that if the underground loop was long enough, it would work. I talked with another guy who said for his five ton units, he drills five well holes 150 feet deep each, so there is 300 feet of 1" vertical pipe in each hole for a total of 1500 feet underground. They run from a big pump to a 1 1/2" manifold, then to each well hole separately with the 1" pipe. That is also with a heat pump but tschopp guesses if I ran about 3 X that amount of pipe underground, it might be enough. He also says if I can drill deep enough to hit groundwater, it would be more efficient since water transfers heat away from the pipe more efficiently than soil. My groundwater is about 250 feet deep and the HVAC guys tell me it is pretty constant at 54 degrees year round. (But my tap water is still 65 in summer) I have a friend in the well drilling business, (the guy who loaned me his big hammer drill when I was putting my water and electric lines through the cellar foundation), who says he would give me deal on the drilling, but it would still be pretty expensive just to drill the holes and drilling 15 holes around the greenhouse doesn't exactly excite me either. I could probably drill 9 since the holes would be 250 feet deep instead of 150, but at $2 or a little more per foot, it adds up. I could do a horizontal loop myself with the excavator, but it would have to start pretty deep. If the soil heats up to 90 degrees for a two foot diameter around the pipe, the loops would need to be separated by at least four feet if I put multiple loops in the same pit. I could do one long run with a trencher but they are slow, I would be trenching up most of my back yard (again) and it is difficult to make turns with them. It took me seven hours to go 160 (or 180) feet from my house to the greenhouse. I could have my well drilling friend bring his big riding trencher, but then it's back to expensive.
There was also a guy I was emailing with who is talking about climate controlling my greenhouse with geothermal. I think he was trying to get me into a heat pump system so I could use it both summer and winter. He says for every $1,000 I am currently spending on propane, he can cut it to $250. Yeah, that's what I need, an air conditioned greenhouse. HA
I could try using the tap water in a loop instead of the geothermal. I had talked about that with H2OENG and then revisited the idea with tschopp when he told me David was using a tap water chiller on his 900 gallon tank. The water in Robert's is very cheap, but even if I plumb the warm side of the loop to the RO, there will be a considerable amount of waste water and I just don't think I have the drainage capacity for it.
Treeman thinks I should go ahead and set up the evap pads (swamp cooler) in front of the shutters like I had originally planned just to test it and see what that will do. Treeman, you were right, I must have been following the diagonal line for volume down to the temperature reading instead of the vertical line. That is how I got the 30% humidity at 95 degrees. According to that psychrometric chart, (when it is being read correctly!!) for a wet bulb temp at 85, with 70% humidity, the temp can get up to 94 degrees and I should be OK. That might just be enough to say good enough. I already have the materials to DIY the pads so it won't cost me any more than I have already spent. Maybe those pads and the airlift tubes would get me there now that I have the shade cloth on. Since I am a big fan of starting as cheap as possible and then "sneaking up" on the final design, I think that is what I will try. I have to get something going or I will be rehashing all of this next summer.
Hey cseeton, I notice the chart says "sea level". Do the numbers change to any great degree with altitude, or is it just the barometric pressure equivalent of sea level???
I must stand in error about the pool temps as well (seldon). I said a few pages back that I had noticed the pool at 83 (i think). Well, I noticed a few times this summer the pool thermometer was up to 89. I still wonder how much I could cool it down at night with spray (I assume the psychrometric chart would hold true for the pool as well??) or shade it to keep it cooler so it could be a back up plan.
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
marc- the shut offs that are in the sink are on the waste lines from the RO. I found that if I just shut off the tap supply to the RO, the water drains out of the membrane housings by gravity. Those shut offs keep the water in the housings to keep the membranes wet, even if they are not being used. I set it up that way so I could shut down the filtering system at night when the iron removal system flushes so I don't get any unoxidized water through the RODI. The iron removal system will bypass and send that nasty water through to the greenhouse while it is flushing. Granted, it's not enough to fill a toilet tank in 7 hours, but I just want to take every precaution to protect those membranes.
melev
Well-known member
I'm surprised that they drain. Did you modify the RO units to not use ASOV any longer?
Thanks for continuing to document your efforts. I'd like to add that the LR vat looks SO full. Was that just because you were working in there and added something or is that the standard height?
Thanks for continuing to document your efforts. I'd like to add that the LR vat looks SO full. Was that just because you were working in there and added something or is that the standard height?
rick rottet
reefkeeper// propagator
I didn't modify the RO, it never had ASOV. The RO unit I have under the kitchen sink is the one with the ASOV. I also found that when I flushed the membranes, the water would shoot all the way across the sink, hit the very top of the rim and splash all over the place...that's why I used the angled shut offs to point the waste/flush water downwards. Splashing water obviously doesn't matter out there, except for the fact that I am standing right there while it is flushing/splashing.
I think the LR vat looks more full now because I put the eggcrate in the vat. The rock is now off of the bottom about 14". I still have the Mag 36 loop on the bottom in addition to the bubbler lines that are now in there too.
I think the LR vat looks more full now because I put the eggcrate in the vat. The rock is now off of the bottom about 14". I still have the Mag 36 loop on the bottom in addition to the bubbler lines that are now in there too.
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