let the insanity begin

Yeah, if slinky tubes or multiple tubes were used you would need more tubing, but the overall field size would shrink. These are nice if a homeowner does not have a large plot size to work with.

The real issue became that you would be working with relatively small temperature differences that necessitated the large field without coupling the system to a heat pump. Using the field with a heat pump shrinks the field size considerably (up to 3-4 times).
 
Rick,

We are chilling water that runs through the molds on a closed loop.

This is a very common practice and used by every injection molding manufacturer, although some use very small units on individual machines, we decided the most cost effective way for us was a central system for all of our machines.

I will watch for the auctions, there are two or three in my area per month. I will get you the links.

Glenn
 
growyourown- OK, thanks. I will be watching for your links.



Once the tank was filled and running, about 50 pounds of live rock went in. About a week has elapsed since then so it is time to put a test pilot in the tank. A couple of faster growing successful softies from my private aquarium will do just fine for starters. The tank had to be shaded with three layers of window screen to get close to the light readings. Remember, there is a 30 % shade cloth over the entire greenhouse, another 30 % over this end (which actually shades this tank when the sun is as high in the sky as it is right now), plus the three layers of window screen directly over the tank. All of that still gets about 11,000 lux when the light meter is submerged down 1 foot deep in the tank where the egg crate sits. This is a good indicator of how weak our MH lights really are (compared to the sun), even though they look bright to the eye.
mini-100_0468.JPG


An IV line works well for drip acclimation. The drip chamber can be submerged and squeezed to suck the water in, then cover the spike end with a finger and squeeze again to push the water along the tubing. Release the finger and a siphon starts.
mini-100_0469.JPG


The roller clamp controls the drip rate from the tank into the tray. I used a couple of green Ricordea that I got about three years ago from Inland Aquatics. They had them labeled as Ricordea florida and I have no reason to doubt them. They were sold to me on tiny pieces of live rock which is supposed to be the restriction for collecting soft corals from the Atlantic- the rock can only be about the size of a quarter. I started with four from the original purchase, currently have about fifteen in my tank, and have taken about a dozen to the LFS over the years. I have never cut any of them, they have propagated themselves well. I also have a bunch of orange and blue Ricordea, but they are probably yuma since the LFS I purchased them from almost exclusively buys from Pacific sources. The florida and yuma have been growing and laying all over each other in my aquarium without any obvious difficulties so I may eventually go ahead and have all three colors in this single tank. The coral on the left in the pic below had grown onto a small rock which already had some protopalythoa on it. When I tried to break the rock to separate the Ricordea, it got a little smushed.
mini-100_0470.JPG


Now I feel like a nervous parent.
mini-100_0471.JPG


Since the tanks have solid sides and therefore are look-down, the rippling action of the surface distorts the viewing of the corals. A small clear plastic tray from the grocery store placed on the surface allows for clear undistorted viewing. I learned this trick from the guy who owns (IIRC) The Hidden Reef in Indiana. He was an acrylic fabricator as well and had a little acrylic tray on the surface of one of his tanks just to provide an alternate way of viewing so his customers wouldn't have to bend over to look through the side of that tank since it sat about waist high. The Ricordea that I smushed (the one on the right in the pic below) is still a little compacted, but looks like it will be ok. The mesenteric filaments have withdrawn and the mucous has washed away.
mini-100_0472.JPG
 
congrats on getting your first test subjects going.

quick question on the shades ~ are you going to slowly remove the shades acclimating the corals to the increased light? or just keep the light readings similar to what we typically find in our tanks?
 
So $10 million dollars later, you have two mushrooms to show for all your hard work? ;)

Hope your test goes well!
 
boxer- I will slowly remove the shade... to a point. How much or how little shade will depend upon the species, the reaction of that species to increased light, and will vary from tank to tank as well as the time of year. The main goal here is maximum growth and/or reproduction in the shortest amount of time possible. It is usually not a problem for most corals to go from higher light to lower light...like going from the ocean -or a greenhouse- into someone's tank. Corals can generally make up for lower light with increased nutrient intake from feeding or absorption. Most home aquariums have plenty of nutrients available .


melev- thanks man. I have really enjoyed and appreciated you being around. (and actually, I'm still about $7,000 short of my budget- I'm hoping that will get me through the winter.)
Oh yea, I forgot to mention those "rare" mushrooms are $15,000 each. LMAO (ebay)
 
You have the greatest smileys I have ever seen, I practically had to pick myself up off of the floor when I saw those.
 
I decided to go ahead and try the evaporative cooling pads just as a trial to see what they would really accomplish. All of the materials were already on hand, so it doesn't cost anything extra to give them a try. You know me, cheapest things first, then modify as necessary. I built a simple rectangle box from 2" X 4" pieces and lined it with some plastic sheet. The box is 50" X 10 1/2" X 10 1/2". A Mag Drive 350 is in the sump to pump the water up through the pvc pipe. The Mag is wired into the same circuit as the shutter motor so that whenever the shutters open, the pump turns on. Any cooling that occurs can then be passive (if the big exhaust fan is off) or active (if the big exhaust fan is on). The horizontal pipe is drilled every 1 1/2" to trickle the water down the green pad. The pad is kitchen scrubber material (Scotch-Brite). The plastic liner still needs to be trimmed. The water is from the RODI to keep any mineral build-up to a minimum since any minerals in the water will be left behind as the water evaporates.

mini-100_0473.JPG


When I went out this morning, the sump was almost dry. I don't think that much could have evaporated overnight, and there were some puddles on the untrimmed liner. The green pad probably needs to be wrapped around the horizontal pipe to keep the water from spraying onto the floor. A float switch to shut the pump off if the water gets to low would probably be a good idea as well. The float switch could probably be combined to keep the sump topped-off too.
 
Now where did you get a scotch brite pad that large? :lol: It looks like a whale-sized piece of Nori! ;)
 
A friend of mine from Rantoul, IL (owner of LFS named The Aquarium) found it for me in one of his catalogues. One of those companies that make those blue filter floss pads had it. Can't remember which company it was right off, but if you are needing some, I can find it pretty easily. It cost me about $28 for a long strip that I made three pads that size from.
 
Good to hear from you Treeman, I was wondering if you were staying safe down there. You sure are getting allot of storms down your way this year.

I hope the pads work well enough to keep me away from the more expensive options. Right now, I can't feel much from it. I think there are a couple of issues going on though. There is only one of these pads hanging right now, and the increased resistance in front of that shutter seems to allow allot more air in through the other shutter. This pad is fairly dense material (but you can sparsely see through it) so I may need to find a material that is a little looser in construction, like those fiberglass woven furnace filters we were talking about on the phone. I looked at the local Lowe's and Menard's but didn't find anything that big. Maybe I can tie a few of them together (or invest in some actual pads). First I will put up the pad in front of the other shutter to see if the flow will balance out and come through the pads better, then investigate some more on the looser material.

Stay safe down there.
 
Hey thanks,

I have been without power at my house since Thursday at 5 pm. this sucks. No phone or internet until today.

The GH had no power for about 20 hours. And we only got clipped by this one. The eye passed about 10 miles south of me. We did get winds to about 80 with gusts to about 90 mph. The GH with stood it with no structural or even plastic damage. So Atlas GH's are tough.
 
http://norwall.com/specials.htm

Check those out. I have the 15 kW (15,000 watt) model but can run the whole house and greenhouse. They have smaller models, free shipping and some other discounts. They have them to run on gasoline, natural gas or propane. I bought mine at a local farm supply store when they had them on sale, but it was the exact same model and manufacturer. Installation isn't too bad either if you just follow the instructions.

I agree, Atlas makes some good GHs, and the people there are soooo nice/polite.

Hope you and your family stay out of the way of those storns.
 
I do have a small generator (8kw). But it still sucks. No A/C and having to deal with flipping breakers to move power where you need it. My wife and I have started talking about stand by generators since this seems to be an ongoing deal lately. Probably go with the 15 kw like you.
 
That Guardian I have rocks. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone.
Is your GH close enough to your house to do it all with one generator?
 
No, the GH is at work. we were only down there for about 24 hours. Still down at home though. Crossing my fingers for tommorrow. They cut all the trees down today.
 
How is that evaporater working out for you? I would think it would have a hard time if the humidity is high in the GH. If i understand what you are try'n is a "swamp cooler" We had one in our house in Salt Lake City and alot of people use them here in Pueblo, Co. but from what i have seen they are almost nonfunctional when humidity gets high. But maybe I am totaly wrong. awsome project btw! =)
 
Back
Top