Lets get this over with, whats the best phosphate remover for the money?

Lets get this over with, whats the best phosphate remover for the money?

  • Rowaphos

    Votes: 90 35.7%
  • Seachem Phosguard

    Votes: 16 6.3%
  • Salifert Phosphate Killer

    Votes: 2 0.8%
  • Hagen Fluval Phosphate Remover

    Votes: 2 0.8%
  • Warner Marine Phosar

    Votes: 33 13.1%
  • Dr. Foster Smith Phos Pure

    Votes: 11 4.4%
  • Phosban

    Votes: 76 30.2%
  • Kent Phos Sponge

    Votes: 5 2.0%
  • Other (please mention)

    Votes: 27 10.7%

  • Total voters
    252
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8966083#post8966083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Serioussnaps
Warner Marine has great products, but this topic is beat

"best" is such a subjective term

I don't think this topic is beat. As a guy who just installed a reactor with Rowaphos last night I am concerned about this alk drop that no one has answered yet. Very concerned actually.

So once again how hard of a hit does Alk usually take by introducing this type of media?


I am going to check my Alk in a little while and see where it is. Luckily I checked it last night.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8961301#post8961301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mc-cro
Is the depression of Alk really a concern with the Phosphar?

I am going to be buying a reactor and media in the next day or
two, and I am leaning heavily towards the PHosphar

No concern at all.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8964680#post8964680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LBCBJ
...I'm now trying Phosban. Interesting how Rowa is packaged wet, while Phosban is packaged dry...does anyone know exactly why and if it has any effect on performance? Also, for those folks who use Phosban reactors, what is your flow-through rate and do you tumble your media? (yes, I know the directions say not to, but it seems that without tumbling the media would clump and channel and trap detritus)
They are both Iron Oxide Hydroxide but have different crystalography. Rowa is Beta while Phosban and PHOsR are Alpha. Rowa has to be maintained wet so the crystals do not turn into Alpha.
The diference is that The Beta crystal seems to adsorb up to three times faster and at high Phosphate concentration can adsorb up to five times more although cost wise (PPM adsorption per unit of price they seem equivalent.)
Adsorption of PHOsR is similar to Phosban but because it does not clump it maintains its efficiency for a longer time. In other words because of clumping and flow issues Phosban may require t be replaced even before it has been exausted.

Regarding the flow, if you use some filter fiber on top I would recommend a flow high enough to keep the surface of the media sligtly moving (Like miniature volcanos).
Once you put the media in the reactor flush it with a high flow (without the fiber) until it comes out clear and throw the water away. Then install the fiber (on top of the perforated plate) and set up the slow flow just to tumbre the media surface.
 
so when is the relaes date gonna be for phosar HC ? I was just about to buy tphosar but hell if theres gonna be a better one im waiting lol. What is the amount used per gallon in it ?
 
i've decided to use phospure for now as the price just can't be beat. i don't test for phosphates but what the hey, i'm not going out of my way to get an expensive phosphate tester :)
 
I used phosguard and had good results. since I have a small tank I just put the media in a nylon stocking and placed it in front of my powerheads.

It really stopped my hair alage from growing and it gave my snails time to eat it all up.

I dont have a phosphate reactor ( dont have no room to put it any where)

could I just use stocking method with this stuff?

right now I have another Phosphate problem I know its my water source ( have to save up for ro/di unit)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8966371#post8966371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CeeGee
I don't think this topic is beat. As a guy who just installed a reactor with Rowaphos last night I am concerned about this alk drop that no one has answered yet. Very concerned actually.

So once again how hard of a hit does Alk usually take by introducing this type of media?


I am going to check my Alk in a little while and see where it is. Luckily I checked it last night.

My alk only dropped the FIRST time I introduced a GFO...now when i change it every month it doesnt drop at all.

Its not a constant "depression."
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8755120#post8755120 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Covey
I've used:
PhosGuard
Phos-X
PhosBan
Rowa
Dr. F&S PhosPure

I've noticed little or no difference in the ability of them to remove phos. They ALL work Dr. F&S was by far the cheapiest. In my book GFO is GFO.


Same here. I used the same but no Phos-x. Just bought 2 more bottles of Foster and smith. Best $54 going!
 
Ive used rowa, phos ban and phos lock. Nothing with Rowa. Phosloc seems to work less then phosban for me. Id be interested in trying the new phosar hc. Just to see if it works better.
 
Those of you with a reactor and using PHOsar, are you using it loose in the reactor, or in a media bag? I'm just emptying out my Phosguard, but the PHOsar granules are somewhat smaller.
 
The instructions say not to rinse it. BTW, it is brown in color and does not appear to be dusty.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9230293#post9230293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
Is the phosar like the others where it has to be rinsed like crazy to get it clean ?
Phosar needs very little rinsing compared to other medias When I used both Rowa and Phosban, I had to run 2-3 gallons of water through the reactor before the dust cleared up. With Phosar it takes 1/2 - 3/4 gallons before the output water is clear.
 
I have my phosloc empting into a afiltersock after rinsing for 5g of ro water and it still stains the socks
 
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