Let's save Georgi's tank!
- Thread starter terahz
- Start date
George - I'm not using that skimmer yet. Having to mod it, and my sump, to get it to fit. But it performs shockingly well. And quiet provided you get a muffler. That cost about $10 shipped. And the skimmer was the best $80 I ever spent.
Does seem to need between 7 and 9.5 inches of water though.
You should read this thread.
Does seem to need between 7 and 9.5 inches of water though.
You should read this thread.
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Good catch there. :thumbsup:
Georgi - I don't really understand your findings regarding stray voltage. What does it mean?
That said, any reaction over any amount of stray voltage is meaningless (in this exercise) without the same readings from your QT to compare them to. Right? For instance, if your QT has more stray voltage than your DT, then your problem is not stray voltage. If you assumed anything, it would be that there's not ENOUGH stray voltage in your DT.
Of course I'm joking, but it does illustrate my point.
Also, was all of that equipment running (not merely plugged in) when you did the test? Pumps pumping, heater heating?
As with Chris, I can't remember how long it's been since I've had a tank with no ground probe. Too much juice in the water for that.
RTMA
DIY Fanatic
I also have used a grounding probe for longer then I can remember, I think maybe when I setup my 75. It's a good thing to have.
Do you have a regular heater to use, opposed to the inline heater? I think this has been one the constants on the unsuccessful tank so far. Wondering if this could be part of the problem.
Also, are you still using the regular black Rubbermaid trash cans? Or are you using a Brute for salt mixing? Can you tell me more about what you mix your WC salt in?
Do you have a regular heater to use, opposed to the inline heater? I think this has been one the constants on the unsuccessful tank so far. Wondering if this could be part of the problem.
Also, are you still using the regular black Rubbermaid trash cans? Or are you using a Brute for salt mixing? Can you tell me more about what you mix your WC salt in?
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Steve, I'm not assuming anything about the stray voltage, that's why I posted it, hoping someone will say if it is ok/too much/too little?. If my QT is to be the gauge, then indeed it is not enough, as I see 15V (~5V for each of the 3 electrical pieces) + 1/2nA. My beginner knowledge in electronics says either way the stray voltage doesn't make a difference, since it is just potential and since I can only measure nanoAmps, that is not even serious to consider as being current.
On the topic of grounding probes, I really see more trouble the benefit with them. I'd rather have a tank of potential in it, that tank with constant (low) current in it. In my book the first is harmless, the second isn't. On the subject of safety - let's leave that to a discussion in a meeting
.
That being said, I've ordered a grounding probe.
I've also ordered an SC65 skimmer and another heater to replace the inline one I currently have. I'd like to think that my Eheim 1260 return is fine, but all equipment is suspect at this point.
Joe, I'm using a home depot tote (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/storag...-baskets/tough-box/27-gallon-tote-100342.html) to mix and store the water. Again, both tanks use that as a source.
Does anyone know if Stamford water has chloramine?
On the topic of grounding probes, I really see more trouble the benefit with them. I'd rather have a tank of potential in it, that tank with constant (low) current in it. In my book the first is harmless, the second isn't. On the subject of safety - let's leave that to a discussion in a meeting
.That being said, I've ordered a grounding probe.
I've also ordered an SC65 skimmer and another heater to replace the inline one I currently have. I'd like to think that my Eheim 1260 return is fine, but all equipment is suspect at this point.
Joe, I'm using a home depot tote (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/storag...-baskets/tough-box/27-gallon-tote-100342.html) to mix and store the water. Again, both tanks use that as a source.
Does anyone know if Stamford water has chloramine?
It might be a moot point. Where do you get the water for your QT?
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Hi Greg,
It isn't AEFW. If it is, then they must be invisible and immortal too. I treated the tank several times for various things (that I didn't see but was suggested might be causing trouble) like red bugs and flat worms but that didn't make a single difference.
There is definitely something very wrong with the tank though. That birds nest that I salvaged and moved back to the QT is now starting to grow new branches. That QT tank is the most abandoned tank I've ever had. Barely having 100 par from the lights, just a sponge and a bag of rocks for filtration, almost no flow, no dosing and no water changes! Even salinity jumps around since I top it off only once a week with about 1/2G of water. Yet, there is good PE and growth (I can understand why there is no good coloration, but at this point I'm not after that). I even have a small clam in there that seems to be doing just fine... Did I mention the walls are covered in pods?
Anyway, the equipment will start arriving next week so I guess not much I can do now.
I made a small water change (10%) in the QT tank with DT water to see if anything reacts. If it doesn't in a couple of days I'll do a bigger one over the weekend.
It isn't AEFW. If it is, then they must be invisible and immortal too. I treated the tank several times for various things (that I didn't see but was suggested might be causing trouble) like red bugs and flat worms but that didn't make a single difference.
There is definitely something very wrong with the tank though. That birds nest that I salvaged and moved back to the QT is now starting to grow new branches. That QT tank is the most abandoned tank I've ever had. Barely having 100 par from the lights, just a sponge and a bag of rocks for filtration, almost no flow, no dosing and no water changes! Even salinity jumps around since I top it off only once a week with about 1/2G of water. Yet, there is good PE and growth (I can understand why there is no good coloration, but at this point I'm not after that). I even have a small clam in there that seems to be doing just fine... Did I mention the walls are covered in pods?
Anyway, the equipment will start arriving next week so I guess not much I can do now.
I made a small water change (10%) in the QT tank with DT water to see if anything reacts. If it doesn't in a couple of days I'll do a bigger one over the weekend.
I'd be surprised if you see anything from such a small w/c. Its not like whatever is in your DT is so toxic that dying happens fast. What ever the problem is, it appears to be a low level impediment to vitality that takes time to manifest into bad things. IMO you need to be doing 30-50% w/c's... Enough to quickly get you to near 100% DT water in the QT.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Okay, little update form this weekend.
Currently the only common equipment form my original setup and now is the Eheim return pump + plumbing and 1 vortech wet side.
100% water change on the QT tank with DT water. 50% water change on the DT.
On a side note the QT tank has been a pod heaven. I've been watching these herbivore cope and isopods clean the glass in patches. Quite amazing. Right before I dumped the entire QT tank water I spent 10 minutes with the turkey baster:
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Clam and birdsnest + 2 zoas are currently in the QT (these have been the permanent residents so far). I'll dump the pods back in there as well. Now the waiting game again.
Currently the only common equipment form my original setup and now is the Eheim return pump + plumbing and 1 vortech wet side.
100% water change on the QT tank with DT water. 50% water change on the DT.
On a side note the QT tank has been a pod heaven. I've been watching these herbivore cope and isopods clean the glass in patches. Quite amazing. Right before I dumped the entire QT tank water I spent 10 minutes with the turkey baster:
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Clam and birdsnest + 2 zoas are currently in the QT (these have been the permanent residents so far). I'll dump the pods back in there as well. Now the waiting game again.
100% QT wc w/ DT water's going to accelerate thing.
With all those equipment changes, it'll be interesting to see how this shakes out. But you did overlook one thing in your remaining original equipment list; the tank.
You never know what controls Glass Cages has - or does not have - in place. You could have gotten a tank the day the new guy was working by himself, and ran out of silicone. Nothing he couldn't fix with a quick trip to Home Depot for some shower door silicone...
With all those equipment changes, it'll be interesting to see how this shakes out. But you did overlook one thing in your remaining original equipment list; the tank.
You never know what controls Glass Cages has - or does not have - in place. You could have gotten a tank the day the new guy was working by himself, and ran out of silicone. Nothing he couldn't fix with a quick trip to Home Depot for some shower door silicone...
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
They were changed at reboot time, thanks to you
I really don't want to spend another 300 bucks on rimless 40B. Especially not when a 180 + stand and equipment was for sale at x2 that few days ago... But you're right. If I do, I'll probably just get a standard AGA 40B from the 1$/G sale at petco, if they have it anytime soon.
Oh and I'll be changing all the plumbing in a couple of months when I move.
I really don't want to spend another 300 bucks on rimless 40B. Especially not when a 180 + stand and equipment was for sale at x2 that few days ago... But you're right. If I do, I'll probably just get a standard AGA 40B from the 1$/G sale at petco, if they have it anytime soon.
Oh and I'll be changing all the plumbing in a couple of months when I move.
The rubber coating on the magnet in my Vortech wetside was compromised and started rusting in the tank. I don't know if it caused any issues but it's easily check-able and replaceable.
Also, I've heard of people using CupriSorb to successfully remove heavy metals from reef tanks. It something from your old equipment was absorbed into your rock or tank silicone and is now leaching out this may help speed up the elimination. Never used the product personally so you may want to do your own research.
Just my 2 cents.
Also, I've heard of people using CupriSorb to successfully remove heavy metals from reef tanks. It something from your old equipment was absorbed into your rock or tank silicone and is now leaching out this may help speed up the elimination. Never used the product personally so you may want to do your own research.
Just my 2 cents.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
I'm almost afraid to report that we have a partial victory! I had a monti cap that I thought was dead, but due to laziness I had left it in the tank. 6 days ago, as I was going through the tank, I noticed the frag has polyps and skin! At that point, I wasn't sure what to make of that (was the frag still slowly dying or is it trying to come back? So I took a picture.
I've been taking pictures every night of that frag, and it is clear to me that it is growing skin over the dead skeleton AND calcifying new skeleton!!!
First photo:
5 days later:
There are a few places where it is very easy to see the growth, but when you flip the two photos quickly it is pretty crazy how much has grown in 5 days!
Also, I had a chalice that was all shriveled up and losing skin, but around the same time, not only did it stop dying, it is fully puffed up now and almost always extending small tentacles out!
Now the question is, did I fix the problem, or did my 50% water change just dilute it enough so that these corals can catch a break?
I'll be doing another big water change today because I'll be away for 2 weeks, so we'll see what happens.
On a side note, since I've stopped the gfo, I've noticed some patches of cyano building up. I'll suck it out as much as I can but I'm just scared to not let the nutrients go too high and go to the other extreme.
Should I put a small bag of GFO in the sump (not in the reactor)?
I've been taking pictures every night of that frag, and it is clear to me that it is growing skin over the dead skeleton AND calcifying new skeleton!!!
First photo:
5 days later:
There are a few places where it is very easy to see the growth, but when you flip the two photos quickly it is pretty crazy how much has grown in 5 days!
Also, I had a chalice that was all shriveled up and losing skin, but around the same time, not only did it stop dying, it is fully puffed up now and almost always extending small tentacles out!
Now the question is, did I fix the problem, or did my 50% water change just dilute it enough so that these corals can catch a break?
I'll be doing another big water change today because I'll be away for 2 weeks, so we'll see what happens.
On a side note, since I've stopped the gfo, I've noticed some patches of cyano building up. I'll suck it out as much as I can but I'm just scared to not let the nutrients go too high and go to the other extreme.
Should I put a small bag of GFO in the sump (not in the reactor)?
Congratulations. But with all the changes you've made, that could be unknowable. Unless you want to let it recover, and then stop the large w/c's.
What happened to your ATS? There's no way that was killing your corals.
Just my 2 cents, but if you have a viable set of bacteria in your live rock, and if you are not over feeding your tank, you should be able to get ahead of that cyano without GFO. I recently beat a bad case of it in my new tank using ZEObac and Coral Snow. You can look here starting post #261 for details.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Well, I'll do only one more large WC and will resume my regular routine after I come back. To be honest, at this point I don't really care what was the problem, as long as it is fixed
. Never really built one. I have all the parts, but never really did it. I just can't get myself to add another manual weekly step to the tank maintenance.
Yep, I followed your battle with cyano, but zeobac and coral snow are much more expensive than a bag of gfo (which I also already have).
I still have a little bit more prodibio equivalent of zeobac and coral snow and will finish it first, then I might consider the zeo products.
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