Let's See Some T5 Only Lite Tanks (remember Just T5 Lite Tanks) :-)

Hi, I have been reading this thread with great interest since I am trying to decide on lighting for a 125 gal 72 inch tank. I was referred to this thread to look at T5s as an option. I am planning on a mixed tank of softies and LPS primarily.
What would be an economical way of lighting this tank with T5s if I were to go that way?
I am planning on making a canopy for the tank and I was thinking 2 of Sunlight Supply 4 x 39 watt retrofits would fit nicely. The IceCap retrofits are much more expensive.
Would this give me enough light for my needs?
thanks
 
t-5 sps tank

t-5 sps tank

4 54 watt t-5 bulbs 2 aqua blue specials and 2 blue plus bulbs
63024fish_075.jpg
 
horkn said:
grim, is that a cats paw in the first pic you posted?

whatever it is it rocks...


and yeah i think i have a home for some zoo trimmings here in Wi...;)


nice tank and corals gabe3d
Click to expand...

Thats a green Birdsnest. It is going to be quite the cool specimen when it grows a bit more. You can see the catspaw, one part in the fourth pic and the other half in the fifth pic.
 
SaltyMember said:
Hi, I have been reading this thread with great interest since I am trying to decide on lighting for a 125 gal 72 inch tank. I was referred to this thread to look at T5s as an option. I am planning on a mixed tank of softies and LPS primarily.
What would be an economical way of lighting this tank with T5s if I were to go that way?
I am planning on making a canopy for the tank and I was thinking 2 of Sunlight Supply 4 x 39 watt retrofits would fit nicely. The IceCap retrofits are much more expensive.
Would this give me enough light for my needs?
thanks
Click to expand...

Go with the 60" 80 watt retros. Check out page four of my gallery. There is a pic of my tank at two months old. It is a 125 like yours running 6 80 watt T5's. If I had staggered them a few inches each way I don't think you would notice the dark corners. They are not nearly as noticable as the picture represents.

You could try 6 80 watt retros running on 3 Workhorse 7 ballasts if you are on a budget. Running the longer T5's is a better choice because the longer lamps are more efficient, you need less parts and it is less money to set it up.

Workhorses are not the exact right ballast and the T5 lamp manufactures claim they (instant start ballasts)will shorten the life of the lamps but how much?.

I am doing some PAR readings as far as what does the best right now in T5 but I am waiting on some more equipment. How soon do you need to make a decision on your system? I should have PAR readings on SLS vs. Ice Cap SLR vs. Brand X reflectors and Workhorse vs. Ice Cap ballasts (anyone know where I can get a standard 80 watt T5 ballast?) next week. It is possible I might be able to recomend alow cost alternative system after I do my PAR Readings.
 
NewSchool04 said:
Wow, great photo's everyone! I read the articles but just can't seem to get the pics. Must be the cheapo digital and nothing to do with my skills. . .

On another note, I have the 6 bulb Tek light and currently running, actinic, aquablue, blue +, 6500 K, aquablue and blue +. The light seems way to white for me. Should I take out the 6500 and add another blue + or do I take out one of the aquablue.
I'm just getting into SPS and have about 5 total frags so I'm thinking the aquablue would be the one to keep. What do you guy's think?
Also, would replacing the one 6500 with a blue+ make much difference?
Click to expand...

if its too yellow for you, yeah, take the 6500k ou and add an aquablue... that should provide you corals with the day spectrum they need. but watch them, they may or may not like it
 
horkn,
I think I figured out my problem. I took the lights off this morning to clean the bulbs and reflectors and switched the front from Actinic to blue + and put the actinic in the back. The difference is unbelievable. A much easier light to look at, a little on the blue side, maybe 14K. A lot easier on the eyes for sure!

I've noticed some stains on my reflectors from salt spray, stains that I couldn't seem to get off. Is anyone using any specific soap or detergent while cleaning the reflectors? Any tips on a good way to do this?
 
NewSchool04 said:
I've noticed some stains on my reflectors from salt spray, stains that I couldn't seem to get off. Is anyone using any specific soap or detergent while cleaning the reflectors? Any tips on a good way to do this?
Click to expand...

I've got the same "stains" and I would love to know how to clean them.

Anybody?
 
Look at the surface texture of the SLS. I am not sure the stains will make a big difference. I'll check that when I dothe PAR measurments next week. I'd try a stiff brush of some type.
 
Vote me in for the stains, that is why I bought yet another rip off....the splash guard!


I don't believe it can be cleaned, if anything you might exacerbate the situation.
 
I run glass tops as well except over the rear 4" or so. another benefit of running the good equipment, glass lids are not a problem/
 
Those glass lids do reduce the amount of available light that actually reaches the water column and thus is useful for the corals. Perhaps you might not be losing as much with the good equipment asd you would with lower qaulity stuff, but you ARE losing some effective light.
 
Salt spray on the bulbs and reflectors also reduce light as do optional plexi shields. With the bubs only 3" off the water, you have to do something....
 
Jimbob said:
Those glass lids do reduce the amount of available light that actually reaches the water column and thus is useful for the corals. Perhaps you might not be losing as much with the good equipment asd you would with lower qaulity stuff, but you ARE losing some effective light.
Click to expand...

Wasn't trying to imply I wasn't losing light. Just that I have enough that it isn't hurting having the glass tops on. I may have to do a PAR reading on that as well.
 
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