Let's talk about Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium in an SPS Tank

I didn't scroll through it all but are you specifically pointing to the magnesium part? I have tried many different solutions including the MG with no luck.
However, as I stated above I heard that astrae snails might like it. 2 nights ago I took 3 astrae snails and put them on the bad area and 2 of them haven't moved since. They definitely have eaten some.
Also, now my bryopsis has become covered with the bubbly red slime algae and I think it is starting to kill it. I did a small water change today and sucked up a good amount of bryopsis. Normally I can't syphon the bryopsis but today it was pretty easy. I am thinking the other algae is weakening it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13891111#post13891111 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefer07
I didn't scroll through it all but are you specifically pointing to the magnesium part? I have tried many different solutions including the MG with no luck.
However, as I stated above I heard that astrae snails might like it. 2 nights ago I took 3 astrae snails and put them on the bad area and 2 of them haven't moved since. They definitely have eaten some.
Also, now my bryopsis has become covered with the bubbly red slime algae and I think it is starting to kill it. I did a small water change today and sucked up a good amount of bryopsis. Normally I can't syphon the bryopsis but today it was pretty easy. I am thinking the other algae is weakening it.

IMO if you have tried all the methods suggested then a last option might be to take each rock out of the tank one by one and scrub them.
 
i think i have been posting my alk problem in the wrong thread but i decided to post it in this forum too to see if you guys can help me.

before my alk was 15
i decided to do a water change and now my alk is 16-17
tap water alk is 6-7
saltwater mix(reefcrystals) 11

how did my alk rise more?
how do i lower it?
ph is 8.2, i just rechecked it.
 
When you dose a buffer to raise pH like you stated in your other thread, that will raise the alkalinity of the reef as well.

You need to stop dosing for pH for the time being, and get your Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium levels where they belong. Also, salinity matters as it will affect how these numbers test out.

Salinity for a reef tank - 1.026 sg
Alkalinity - 8 to 11 dKH
Calcium - 370 to 450ppm
Magnesium - three times the calcium level (1300 - 1400ppm is what I shoot for)
 
oh i didnt know ph buffer brings up alk. no wonder why its up because i been trying to keep the ph at 8.2-8.4
now it all makes sense
so i will stop the ph buffer but what if my tanks ph goes down to 7.8 which is where its at without the buffer
but then again my new saltwater mix (reef crystals) ph is at 8.2

can you also explain to me a little bit about how salinity affects parameters. i have my salinity between the required levels on my salinity meter.
 
Don't worry about the pH, period. While it is a nice indicator, if you don't own a digital pH meter, there's no point even considering it. pH changes from minute to minute, and hour to hour. It is at its lowest early in the morning, and at its highest near the end of your peak lighting period.

Dosing various products can raise or drop pH in the tank. Kalkwasser and buffer brings it up, vinegar brings it down... just a few examples. Excess CO2 in the house brings it down, and fresh air brings it up.

The average pH we look for is 7.9 to 8.3, but there are many beautiful tanks that peak at 7.9 due to atmospheric conditions in their sealed up homes. Again, this is just a way to gauge the health of the tank and should not be the magic number you must attain.

The more salty the water is, the more your test results will be affected. If you test Magnesium with a salinity of 1.021 and then again with 1.026, you should see a difference. It may not be a big difference, but it shouldn't be the same reading.

What level do you keep your tank at? Between the required levels is a bit vague. Also, how you read a hydrometer is important if that is what you are using. Are you measuring how it hits the scale, or are you measuring it where it curls up the glass (due to water surface tension)?
 
i am really trying to keep my tank stable and from all this unstableness due to parameters going out wack due to me dosing i realize the best thing to do is keep it simple and learn patience.
so im really not gonna dose anything except for CA when i need it which is prob long from now because i only have a few sps's, iodine like once every 2 weeks for soft corals, and strominium for the sps's like once every 2 weeks too.
no more essential elements or buffers.
i realize my salt actually has good parameters.
i just did another water change today and hopefully with the saltwater mix alk at 11, it will lower my current alk of 16-17 to something lower.

i will try to keep my tank at 78 degrees, 400-450 cal, 10-12 alk, nitrate phosphate to zeros.
these are all the tests i have.

for salinity i guess i use the curl plastic thing tha tyou mentioned with has the correct parameters in the middle of it highlighted in red.
 
That sounds like a good plan. I really do recommend you get The Reef Aquarium Vol 3, which is on sale at Amazon.com for $54 currently. I think you'll get free shipping with that order, and it will be an excellent book for you to learn from. Give your reef a gift this holiday season, and it will make your hobby far more enjoyable because you'll understand much more about how this works, as well as many many other yet related topics.

I recommend Vol 3 to everyone new to the hobby. As well as my website, when you are done surfing Reef Central. ;)
 
Hi,for alkalinity and Ca I have been using B-ionic and my levels are as follows the alk at 13-14,Ca at 360 and steadily increasing. My PH at 8.4 and above. I also doze with kalkwasser with RO water which I picked up from youtube DIY projects which is in a one gallon container,one drip per two seconds. The testing equipment and pretty accurate are the salifert series,I also doze magnesium once a week because it keeps the Ca at safe level for corals to grow better and the coralline algae has taken off together with the corals and fish of course are healthier. Keeping alk at 14 keeps the doctors away as they say. Hope this helps
:)
 
You are running your alkalinity much too high. I don't know where you got the recommendation, but 8 to 11 dKH is a better target range usually.

If you use B-Ionic, it seems you wouldn't need to use any kalkwasser. Normally, that is the either / or discussion, with kalkwasser being the less expensive route.
 
my sps tank has been thriving with levels of 440 calcium, 1500 mag, alk 9, sal 1.25, with chido in the fuge to help keep nitrates to a minimum. i believe that the salt im using D-D H2Ocean Magnesium Pro PLUS Salt Mix has been the real key. the salt is awesome!! anyone else using this stuff
 
i no this might be little off track......my first post by the way but when i got my acros they turned browny coloured is this because of trace elements? as i was told to only have ca mg alk n ph in tact?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13972832#post13972832 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
You are running your alkalinity much too high. I don't know where you got the recommendation, but 8 to 11 dKH is a better target range usually.

Marc,

Let me pick your brain just a bit, if I may :D

I absolutely agree that 8-11 dKH is an often recommended target and that higher than ~12 dKH is often said to be "too high" by many aquarists. I'm curious if you have thoughts on how it is or why it is a large part of the aquarist community has picked 11/12 dKH as a sort of threshold above which we prefer not tread?

As I said, I hear this very, very often, but I can think of absolutely no basis to use this particular value as any sort of threshold...besides that is what we hear and repeat so often :)

Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14338798#post14338798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by elias123
i no this might be little off track......my first post by the way but when i got my acros they turned browny coloured is this because of trace elements? as i was told to only have ca mg alk n ph in tact?

The general rule is to only dose what you can test for.

You have the right idea about the key ingredients. These are what I watch:

pH (just a glance to see that it is within target range of 8.0 and up)
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Salinity (re-calibrate any measuring device to make sure it is accurate)
temperature (stability is key, I try to avoid more than a 2 degree fluctuation)
Nitrate should be as low as possible (under 10ppm)
Phosphate should be as low as possible (.03ppm or less)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14338959#post14338959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MCsaxmaster
Marc,

Let me pick your brain just a bit, if I may :D

I absolutely agree that 8-11 dKH is an often recommended target and that higher than ~12 dKH is often said to be "too high" by many aquarists. I'm curious if you have thoughts on how it is or why it is a large part of the aquarist community has picked 11/12 dKH as a sort of threshold above which we prefer not tread?

As I said, I hear this very, very often, but I can think of absolutely no basis to use this particular value as any sort of threshold...besides that is what we hear and repeat so often :)

Chris

In the past (2003-2004), it seemed like all the SPS-diehards were aiming for 12-15 dKH, although RHF continually addressed that point, encouraging people to aim for NSW levels instead. That always made more sense to me.

The reason for the higher alk was that that, plus 6500K lighting, would result in very fast growth. The risk wasn't enough to derail that idea for many, which was that a precipitation event could occur. The tank would look like it was snowing in it, and alk & ca would bottom out quickly, leaving the hobbyist scrambling to get parameters back in line. I guess the best analogy is running your muscle car on the red line (RPMs) all the time, knowing you're running hot and running fast, hopefully long enough to win before your engine blew out. ;)
 
Hi Marc,

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14341271#post14341271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
In the past (2003-2004), it seemed like all the SPS-diehards were aiming for 12-15 dKH, although RHF continually addressed that point, encouraging people to aim for NSW levels instead. That always made more sense to me.

Fair enough, but the recommended range here (8-11 dKH), which is the same as I see often recommnded, is still well in excess of NSW. Mean alkalinity in the mixed layer in the tropics is ~2.35 meq/L (= 6.6 dKH), and varies from ~6.1-6.9 dKH when you factor in regional variation in salinity.

Hence, 8-11 dKH is 21-67% higher than NSW levels. If such a large range, including 67% higher (11 dKH) is acceptable, why would 81% higher (12 dKH) or 97% higher (13 dKH) be a threshold to which or above which we dare not tread?

I don’t mean to be a bugger here, I’m just not sure this is a logical position for us to adopt ;)


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14341271#post14341271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
The reason for the higher alk was that that, plus 6500K lighting, would result in very fast growth. The risk wasn't enough to derail that idea for many, which was that a precipitation event could occur. The tank would look like it was snowing in it, and alk & ca would bottom out quickly, leaving the hobbyist scrambling to get parameters back in line.

But the alkalinity is only part of what determines whether one gets a ‘whiting’ like that or not. Net abiotic precipitation of CaCO3, as aragonite, is possible when the aragonite saturation state (Omega-arag) rises above 1.0. In standard sea water (35 ppt, 25 C, 1 atm, total alk. = 2300 ueq/kg, [Ca++] = 10.28 mmol/kg, pHnist = 8.20) Omega-arag = 3.48. All else equal, Omega-arag increases linearly with an increase in alkalinity. An increase to 11 dKH yields Omega-arag = 5.90; an increase to 13 dKH yields Omega-arag = 7.00.

Whitings typically occur when Omega-arag is in the neighborhood of 15-30. We’d have to raise alkalinity quite high to produce a whiting under otherwise normal conditions. Usually it takes a large increase in pH to get to those conditions…or a massive overdose of calcium or alkalinity…or a combination.

For instance, to reach Omega-arag = 15.0 at 11 dKH we have to raise the pH to 8.855 (otherwise normal conditions). At 13 dKH we have to raise pH to 8.695 to get Omega-arag = 15.0â€"that’s a difference, but we have to raise pH way out of the normal range either way.

I suppose the difficulty I’m having is with the treatment of 11 or 12 dKH as a threshold. I don’t see any reason to do so. It may be preferable to shoot for a range of 8-11 dKH for practical reasons, but if 11 dKH is good, how can we reasonably say that 12 dKH is bad? ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14341271#post14341271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I guess the best analogy is running your muscle car on the red line (RPMs) all the time, knowing you're running hot and running fast, hopefully long enough to win before your engine blew out. ;)

Fair enough. I’d submit then, if we consider 2000-3000 RPMs fine and start to see all heck break loose in the neighborhood of 5000+ RPMs, does that make 3050-3100 RPMs necessarily that much cause for concern?

As I said, just picking your brain. Much appreciated :D

Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14341194#post14341194 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
The general rule is to only dose what you can test for.

You have the right idea about the key ingredients. These are what I watch:

pH (just a glance to see that it is within target range of 8.0 and up)
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Salinity (re-calibrate any measuring device to make sure it is accurate)
temperature (stability is key, I try to avoid more than a 2 degree fluctuation)
Nitrate should be as low as possible (under 10ppm)
Phosphate should be as low as possible (.03ppm or less)

thank you : ) reef centrals mad i wish i knew about it earlier!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14342377#post14342377 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gary faulkner
elias123


<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>

thanks : ) a warm welcome is always good
 
Back
Top