Let's Talk About Water Movement in an SPS Tank.

is there such thing as too much waterflow. cause my return pump is very strong. its blowing the sand back and etc. everything in the tank is moving fast. but after i stop the pump evrything stechess out very well. no sps in my tank yet. dont think its mature enough one more mopnth and ill hit 5 months so.... waiting then i'll get frags
 
phishlipripper said:
How are you guys that run MJ's solving this while still keeping your flow up?

All of my MJ's are near the top of my tank also.

Change out the 4xMJ's for 2 Rio Seio 820's. Less heat, less electricity, same cost, more flow (more gentile too):)
 
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Bouncing the stream off of the glass is good for breaking up the stream of water, so that it isn't just one direct blast of water hitting the corals, but it doesn't eliminate the need for some type of alternating current device. The glass will break up the stream of water the same way all day as long as the pump is on. So even though your water may seem choppy from the top of your tank, it's a consistent choppiness.

I think that alternating current with some type of wavemaker is still absolutely necessary.
 
clowntank10,

There isn't really a way to get too much flow in a reef tank. What's important though is that you don't want direct flow from a pump or powerhead hitting your corals, or it will tear the flesh right off.
 
When it comes to an SPS dominated tank, it is hard to have too much total flow. There are two limiting factors, though:

1) Sandstorms - sugar-fine sand becomes a real limiting factor in SPS tanks, especially as they mature and grow out. There is only so much flow you can get before you create a permanent sandstorm. This can be especially problematic in tanks with multiple colonies in the lower half of the water column and when you need to increase flow to prevent lower branch recession.

2) Velocity - the nozzle velocity of powerheads and plumbing outlets can also be a llimiting factor. As has been said before, high velocities can literally tear tissue right off a branch. To reduce this, use larger plumbing fittings for the outlets, eductors, and high-flow powerheads such as Streams and Seios.
 
stealyourhouse,

Nice Wilco cop... ;)

The combination of pumps hitting the glass and currents made by other water vectors in the tank (hitting the glass or not) not only breaks it up, but does indeed provide random currents. If you come to my house, I will show you. :) Wavemaking is not absolutely necessary, either - I haven't used one in almost 2 years and have no complaints. As I said, I can see the randomness of the flow by watching the polyps on my corals (and other things in the tank). To each their own...
 
ok got the return working. so much water flow in the tank. its scarry. no sand storms but all the lil corals and etc in the tank are moving. in all the corners. used off the glass bang. great idea. the maroon is hiding. hasnt xperienced that much flow since it was in my tank. the only spot with very pressure is right under the part wher am off glass banging the water. the corals are streching. today im getting my first sps frag. probly a digitada cuase lfs said they are the easiest to keep. i have a lot of lil bubles how do i get rid of 'em
 
I have been struggling with proper flow in my SPS tank - problem is it is a 20L - 12" deep. I have a mod'd MJ400 and a RIO50 on the back wall, and a skimmer overflow. I have the MJ on a Chauvet timer, and I had to point the nozzle against the back wall. The RIO has the spigot pointed toward the middle of the tank. With such close quarters I am having trouble getting decent flow to the middle of the tank, where the highest light demand acros should be. DOH!

I don't really want to keep all my corals in the middle of the tank, but ones on the edge will get the tissue ripped off.
 
great thread

I rock a mag 9.5 on my 15 gallon using a modified scwd. I watch my SPS polyps sway back and forth.. sometimes up and down. The outputs from the mag 9.5 are pointed towards the center/front of the tank. Beings as how my tank is only 14 inches wide and deep, and 18 inches tall.. you can guess I don't have a single dead spot.
 
I took a sheet of 1/8th inch acrylic, some pvc glue, and some aragonite... put the three together, and it looks like I have sand, but it doesn't move. Unless, the hermits pick it off (which they have, and I'm not happy about it.)

*edit*

I've been thinking about replacing the acrylic with an epoxy like someone here on RC did... can't think of the name right now, but if it's safe, I'll be going that route.
 
RGibson said:
Joe if you were to start a new 180 gal reef how would you do the water flow?

Great question ... in fact, I'd like to suggest after the last of these great `Let's Talk About' threads ... I'd love to force Joe to dream up his `ideal 180 setup' for us + outline it.

[at least personally I'm working toward that size tank in 1-3 years ... or larger]
 
flow is one thing but when u have a mix reef like mine, LPS and SPS.. you will face headache as you have to be careful of the flow..
 
a slow steady flow is great, too much flow coming offa tunze is too strong, a surge would be best in my opinon.
 
I have a 15 gallon surge device that drops from about 4' before splitting into 2 - 1" outlets into my prop tank. It drains in 6 seconds and goes off once a minute like clock work.

If you want increased growth and overall health for your sps up the flow in your tank, prop or otherwise.

surge.jpg
 
I have a 120 with an Oceans Motions 4 way. I have it plumbed as a closed loop with the 4 returns in the botom of each corner. I have the two front returns blasting through 1.5" 45s shooting up and across the tank. I have one rear coming through a 1.5" 90 shooting across the bottom of the tank. The last corner I had a 90 blowing forward, but I thought I was "wasting" the flow. I pulled off the 90 and was going to replace it with a 45 right as the flow from my amp master kicked on with the water shooting straight up for 15 sec. I was quite happy when I saw the water swirling all around that corner of the tank, over rocks, under rocks, all over. The water jet pushed water up against the eurobrace and made the top of the watter move almost all the way across the tank. As the water comes down from a wave, it causes even more flow to blow down on rocks and corals. I am thinking of replacing the one back 90 with a 45 so the current shoots up and across the back. What I think would be great is if I had the 8way so I could have two bulkheads in each corner one with a 45 fitting, and one shooting straight up.
 
talking so much about water movement..
but can anyone help list out which brand product is the best for water movement..??

thanx
 
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