Light Rail, who is using one

I started putting in the T5 fixtures, and I can just barely fit a 14" wide reflector in there

I take it that means you've got a 5" T5 reflector on either side of the 14" lumenarc? (24" width on the tank?)

Is the stealth reflector as effective as the standard lumenarc? It might be nice to be able to slide the T5s towards the center an extra inch.

When I first started looking into this lots of people like the 'Agramover' light mover which can be found on ebay. Has this one fallen out of favor or is the Gualala just a better value?
 
gtrestoration, a Radium 250wattSE is made for a M80/HQI ballast actually... not being overdriven one bit. I hear you on the output, but I need more... your tank is about 6" narrower, and 6" shorter (48x30x21"h). FWIW, the Ushio 14,000K is about 20% more output than the Radium, or the G-man which is another 20% more over that: both nive fits. I also prefer a 'full spectrum' with lots of blue. 20,000K and bluer 14,000K halides alone leave out the warmer spectrums all together and look monotone to me. The coloration that horkn talks of with this daylight halide and blue+ T5s is no joke. I have yet to see any halide only or even T5 only lit tank compete growth and color wise. The T5s also fill in where the pendant isnt hitting along its movement... preventing the darker areas from dropping down in PAR too much and keeping the whole tank in 'daylight' levels, even when the halide is at the other end. Julian Sprung thought this sounded crafty and very effective. With a single halide, you would have darker shadows left in the tank.

want2reef, actually, I would get worse coverage front to back with the reflector mounted perpendicular to the front. Its a common misconception, but the wider coverage/higher output on these reflectors is across the short width of the reflector. The bulbs put out less light in the direction of their sockets. So I do have the reflector positioned for the best coverage front-to-back already. As far as moving closer to the ends of the tank, I had started like that... with the light moving about 30"... but its overkill. The travel distance is only 2' now, and plenty of coverage.

salmon alley, as far as the Agramover, I cant comment. They are most likely similar, but I know that the Gualala is approved for use in humid environments w/o rusting, with sealed control electronics and wiring. The agra looks more 'DIY' which means exposed wiring and rust is more likely. Perpetual98 has one I believe... you could ask him. I also wanted the most compact unit so I could mount it inside my canopy with minimal clearance problems... the agra is a larger unit from what I have seen.

As for the tank, it is 30" front to back, but due to the 3" euro-bracing, the opening at the top is 42"x24". So I can have the T5s spaced out more (I was going to have 6-8 T5 bulbs in the original plan so I could play with bulbs and timing more) and simply angle the reflectors inward.

So yes, I would have two 2.5" reflectors in front of and behind the halide inside custom housings. The stealth reflector is something I am considering as well... it is slightly smaller, at 11x11. This could be useful. I would imagine it to be slightly less spread/penetration than the 14" version, but still... loads ahead of the PFO. I have the lumenarc DE pendant already though... so we will see... everything is a comprimise though.
 
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Here is my ghetto light mover setup. This is on my tank that I've been in the process of completely redoing.

Setup:
Mover4.jpg


"Hanging Kit":
Mover5.jpg


Duct Tape:
Mover3.jpg


Right:
Mover2.jpg


Left:
Mover1.jpg


There it is in all of its glory. Before I tared down this tank to rebuild it bottom up, I was having a good amount of success with the light mover. Everything was opened up, my BTAs were growing like crazy, as was the coralline.
 
hahnmeister.... sorry I missed your post (I don't subscribe).

I never have a problem in my shallow tanks with delivering enough light. Quality of the light is a much bigger concern for me. I have a cube tank that does much better when I use a 1/4" standard glass shield even with the bulb 15" off the water so go figure.

I'm not really sure what you're asking me though.

The new 250 IC ballast sounds interesting since it may drive the radium somewhere between the currect version and the M80.

As money allows I'll replace the 72" x 12" x 12" tanks with 48" x 24" x 15" tanks. Three will replace four and I can use one MH on a mover per tank instead of two stationary. At the current power rate the pay-back is about 1.5 years for the tanks, 1 year for the movers and another 3 months or so for related plumbing needs. But the key here is I can lay the Edison bill on the counter in broad daylight instead of in the morning before I leave for the shop while she still sleeps. :lol:

SteveU
 
TankwithT5sandhalideL.jpg

TankwithT5sandhalideM.jpg

TankwithT5sandhalideR.jpg


^^^ the T5s are up and running. It looks awesome. The light level readings I am getting with the Apogee are right what I was going for.
 
15-1/2" tall. The front access is 11.5", plus the bottom 1x2, and two top 1x2s. The reason for the two up top is that the canopy top opens as well, and all the lights are attached to the top. When I want to get into the tank for work, all I need to do is open the top and all the lights swing out of the way...
Tankcanopyopen.jpg


The reason I went 11.5" tall for the opening, even though I could have gone shorter, was so that I could use standard size cabinet doors (12" tall) for on the canopy.

The canopy also has the perfect proportions for Greek architecture now as well... the ratio of base to tank to canopy is almost a perfect 3:2:1... so it looks right in the room even though it takes up the whole corner.
 
it looks really good hahn. =) Where did you get your starphire glass to make the tank? Was it very expensive? I am thinking of maybe going that route instead of an oceanic tech tank. Not sure though. Really nice. Love the T-5's with it. =)
 
Cool looking rockwork Hahn, Grim gives it 5 skulls up.

Myshoes tank is pretty cool too. I vote honerable mention for most creative use of duct tape in the light mover too:D
 
Ya'll killin me....I was wondering what the tape was for......until velcro is in place right?

Seriously,
Either of you...when the bar reaches the end to start back the opposite direction how much sway is there? I see your pendants are in direction of the tank length. Is it not better to go tank width?
 
In my case, the pendant did sway more when it was oriented perpendicular to the front. Not a terrible amount, but enough to be noticeable. Now that it is parallel with the front I don't get any sway. The sway was not the reason I changed it though. I changed it because I'm preparing to install actinic supplements and I wouldn't have room with it the way it was.
 
Has anybody tried a light rail on a 72" tank? I am wondering whether you would need 2 MHs or would one work (assuming the rail is long enough)?
 
Well, if you can use horticulture as a model, 6' is about how long they tend to run these lights on the light rails. You'll probably want supplemental lighting.
 
Some brands come with 6' rails with 3' extension seperate of course. I would think 2 pendendant would be suitable for a 72" tank however One may suit as well depending on the speeed 6-9 seconds on the options of some motors
 
I just finished mounting my light move that I purchased at Aquatic Eco Systems. I love this thing the only thing that I am having trouble w/ is cord management. I don't want the excess hanging so I may have to find some springs of some sort.

I will put up pics tomorrow.
 
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