Lighting help for a newb please

LSBoogie

New member
So I just picked up a 33g (same foot print as a 55g but only 13" tall). The tank came with two light strips that are t5 NON ho with 2 28w bulbs per strip. I'm new to this whole thing and will probably stick with hardy corals and shrooms only (at least for a while). Is this lighting good enough or should I take advantage of a t5 ho assy that I found on sale (the ho assy is only a two bulb but shows 54 (ish) watts per bulb? OR...go for a 4 bulb t5ho so I don't have to change later?
 
I would do the 4 bulb, but make sure it has individual reflectors. It will allow you to keep any thing you want anywhere in the tank. I love that shallow of a tank.
 
I would do the 4 bulb, but make sure it has individual reflectors. It will allow you to keep any thing you want anywhere in the tank. I love that shallow of a tank.

I had actually never seen one till I went to look at this one. Sadly, I started a 20L (spent a bunch of money, built a stand, bout half way done :o ) Then I saw this 33 and fell in love. The aqua scaping options are going to keep me up at night...come on cycle...go go go...
 
I just started a 40 breeder as a second tank because of it's footprint. I like that you can easily aquascape close to the water line without buying tons of rock. I wish you well on your new tank and hope you get your lighting figured out.
 
whats the price on the one you found online? 2x54 t5HO SHOULD be enough for hardier soft-type corals, and mushrooms, but you will want more for anything else.

Should you have found the t5HO 2-bulb fixture for ABOUT $60 used, take it. If it's any more, not worth it, as new ones are $110, which works out to a little more than the price of replacing the bulbs.
 
I had 260 W PC on my 55 gallon and that seemed to work fine for most corals (Just upgraded to MH since its a deeper tank). If your 33 is the same footprint as the 55 then I would think the Coralife fixture could work real well.
 
So I just pulled the trigger and ordered a 48" 4x54 t5ho light...i should have stopped there but I didn't...i kept reading reviews...all good but all were on bigger tanks. Am I going to have too much light now? keep in mind my tank is only a 33g which means its only 13" deep. ...sigh...concerned....
 
what fixture exactly? Link?

The fixture can depend. Many "cheaper" fixtures will have poor PAR numbers, so it shouldn't be any problem. If it was something like a geissemann, ATI, TEK, then you may have too mjuch light. Any of the others should have low enough par that 13" will be fine for most anything. Softees nearer the top might be an issue, and un-shaded mushrooms might have a tough time. If you plan to keep anything low-light, just create a lot of "shade" with your aquascaping. ALSO, I have heard that putting screen, aggcrate, or the like can create "shaded" areas in tanks with MH when they want shrooms in an area.
 
what fixture exactly? Link?

The fixture can depend. Many "cheaper" fixtures will have poor PAR numbers, so it shouldn't be any problem. If it was something like a geissemann, ATI, TEK, then you may have too mjuch light. Any of the others should have low enough par that 13" will be fine for most anything. Softees nearer the top might be an issue, and un-shaded mushrooms might have a tough time. If you plan to keep anything low-light, just create a lot of "shade" with your aquascaping. ALSO, I have heard that putting screen, aggcrate, or the like can create "shaded" areas in tanks with MH when they want shrooms in an area.

This is the one: the 48" one.

http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticL...xtures-AquaticLife-AK01035-FILTFIT54U-vi.html

The shade thing makes sense too. thanks.
 
Ok, from what I have heard, the fixture has low PAR compared to better fixtures like I mentioned. I do not know, I have the 24" one and LOVE it, and my corals are doing quite well. I will tell you the stock lights are pretty cruddy, so you will have to change them. If you want, I know that standard actinics posess a lot less PAR than other lights, so maybe you can go with 3 Actinic, and something like a Fiji Pink, and the combonation of the three, slightly lower PAR than a standard 2-daylight, 2-actinic, you should not have any issues.
 
Ok, from what I have heard, the fixture has low PAR compared to better fixtures like I mentioned. I do not know, I have the 24" one and LOVE it, and my corals are doing quite well. I will tell you the stock lights are pretty cruddy, so you will have to change them. If you want, I know that standard actinics posess a lot less PAR than other lights, so maybe you can go with 3 Actinic, and something like a Fiji Pink, and the combonation of the three, slightly lower PAR than a standard 2-daylight, 2-actinic, you should not have any issues.

Thank you. What exactly do you mean by pretty cruddy? I guess I hoped for 300.00 it would be good to go...doh...sorry for being a newb
 
how excatly are you going to have too much light?
I know people that run MH's at 10 WPG. Its not very likley that you can have too much light, exspecially with a cheaper fixture thats not even MH or HO t-5
Some corals may prefer less exposure to light but thats what your rockwork and tank depth are for.
 
how excatly are you going to have too much light?
I know people that run MH's at 10 WPG. Its not very likley that you can have too much light, exspecially with a cheaper fixture thats not even MH or HO t-5
Some corals may prefer less exposure to light but thats what your rockwork and tank depth are for.

It is HO t5 (the original one isn't, the replacement one is). I'm not terribly worried about it now. Saw some 20ls with 250 mhs, some with 150mhs. If I burn a hole in something I'll worry then...On to the next thing to be manic about...hmmm...what should I choose....
 
if you feel you have to much raise the fixture they have adjustable cable kits to hang from the ceiling or run only 2 of the 4 bulbs
also you may want to try the ATI bulbs great color and par
try the blue + bulbs (no atinics needed)
I'm running 2 ATI aqua blues 3 blue + 1 fiji purple
 
The bulbs they come with are cheap, LOW par, and the combo it comes with makes your tank look like banana yellow. Pretty cruddy.

I replaced all 4 right off the bat. I run 1 ATI Aquablue special, 2 Blue+, and a UVL 75/25. The 75/25 is about the same as the kz fiji.

I think you will be fine, although I would reccomend running 2 blue+, a Fiji, and a more violet actinic rather than the extra daylight since your water depth is so shallow, the extra par of a 2nd daylight is not needed.
 
found kz fiji purple but no pink...if, for keeping the wife from killing me reasons, I could only replace one bulb should I replace one of the whites with this fiji purple thingy? Would that help or won't I notice much until i replace all four?
 
Sorry, it is the fiji purple.

The fiji purple is a pretty redish daylight type bulb, but not as much so as a 10K or 12K bulb. If you are absolutely only able to replace 1 bulb, I would take out one of the daylight bulbs supplied, and ADD an ATI blue+, you will be much happier with the color.

At $20 a bulb + shipping, bulbs are not very expensive. The stock bulbs will be fine for cycling the tank, so you could likely wait 6-8 weeks before changing any bulbs out. You could also sneak one bulb in per week if thats an easier way to do it.

Front to back I reccomend for your setup:

Ati Blue+
KZ Fiji purple/UVL75.25
UVL superactinic
Ati Blue+

The blue+'s have high par, DEEEP blue colors, the superactinic is a violet-ish color, and the fiji is a pinkish daylight. This will give you a pretty blue look, while providing pretty good par, and color-pop.

PS, for true lighting expertise, visit the "t5 Q&A" thread in the lighting/equipment forum. Explain the situation to Grim, and he will give you the perfect lighting combo.
 
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