lighting on a 30g

dermer

New member
i plan to set up a 30g reef with mainly mushrooms and leathers along with a few other mixed corals that will have 2 clown fish in the tank and maybe a ca for them to host in what are your thoughts on the lighing that will work best for this
 
If your light needs arent too high, and if this is a 30L that is 36"x13"x16"...I would not do a 250watt halide. The tank is long and narrow, so a halide is going to be too much in the center, and not enough at the ends...and spill alot of excess light at the front and back with the 12-13" width. If all you want to raise is some soft corals and low-medium light corals, I would suggest a 2-4 bulb 39watt retrofit/hood. A 2 bulb might be enough, but most people want to run bluer bulbs...so 3 bulbs...but then most people go brighter down the road as well, so I would just go with a 4x39wattT5 unit. It might be too much for now, but you can just run bluer/less bulbs until you want more light for that anemone or SPS coral.
 
it is actally a 30 gallon 30in long 18 high and 12 wide thanks i was thinking along the lines o 2-4 t-5's
 
Oh, thats like a 29g. Ok. Well, then...I wouldnt bother with T5 then. T5s cost the same for 2' or 4' as far as bulbs and fixtures go. A 4' bulb might be $22 and a 2' bulb will be $21...and a 4 bulb 2' fixture might cost $20 less than a 4' one. This favors the 4' bulbs/fixtures as the most economical. For 2' units, unless you just plan on using a couple, they just dont add up....the cost of replacing the bulbs is still too much...

Compared to halide that is. A single 150watt or 250watt halide bulb is cheaper. A good 14,000K or 20,000K (no supplimental blue/actinic needed) can be had for about $50-70, and provides lots of light for whatever you desire. Everything, even soft corals, like halide...not everything likes T5.
 
If you going to do softies then go with t5's or pc's. I think if you use mh on that tank, then you'll need a chiller too. Which is gonna cost another $300 give or take. And halides are going to cost more electricity.
 
I had a 250watt halide over a 10g and didnt need a chiller.

The idea that halide means you need a chiller is a myth.
 
i have 3 65watt PCs (2 10,000k and 1 dual actinic 420/460nm) over my 29g and keep soft corals, zoas, mushrooms, and a flower anemone. all are growing and doing fine. the 65watt bulbs are 21 or 22 inches long so they fit perfectly on a 30 inch long tank with enough room for the endcaps.
 
NOTHING beats metal halides....t5's come close, but i wouldnt even bother with power compacts or VHOS's.

FWIW i have a 175w halide over my 29g
 
Are you kidding me?

I was once an unbeliever like yourself...'nothing beats halide'.

Boy, was I wrong.

PAR / watt wise, T5 can outdo halide easily. I would compare T5 to halide at a ratio of 1 watt T5 = 1.5 watts T5. Granted, there are differences based on the linear nature of T5s vs the point source of halide that modify how the output distributes/penetrates in the tank...but make no mistake...halide is not unbeatable. In this case, I just dont see an economical reason for the use of T5s...he would have to use 4-6 T5 bulbs at $20 each to get the output of a single halide bulb in a tank that short (30"). I just tend not to suggest T5s unless the tank is at least 3' long. If this was a 30L (36"L), then I would say 4x39wattT5s and call it a day. 4x39wattT5 will easily outdo a 150wattDE halide (and therefore a 175wattMH as well).

I have two 40Bs...top and bottom. The top is a 250wattDE/HQI pheonix 14,000K. The bottom is a 6x39wattT5 with a mix of bulbs that closely match the spectrum of the upper tank (2xaquablue/2xblue+/2xactinic03). The bottom tank is easily brighter than the top tank...dont even need a PAR meter to see it...the bottom is prolly 70% (it looks twice as bright in person, but I'll be conservative) brighter than the top with the halide.

You can see from the following pic...the colors are nearly identical...but in person...wow...the T5s pack a punch!
101919dual_40s.JPG
 
I love my 250W 14k Pheonix above my 29. Not too blue, not too white. Also you can keep just about anything without worring about if you have enough light.
 
I say make your life easy

If your lighting needs are NOT high and your tank is 30" in length.

Check into the ORBIT pc lights. They make a fine 2x65w fixture w/ moon lights. You should have no complaints.

If your planning on keeping things like Shrooms, softies, zoas some LPS then...not only is a halide not neccessary I think it would be a bad idea.

Check into the ORBIT or T-5 lights...something simple and "plug n' play"
 
"If your planning on keeping things like Shrooms, softies, zoas some LPS then...not only is a halide not neccessary I think it would be a bad idea."

-Harville

While this might hold true for T5s, many softies thrive under halide. Many softies are really light lovers...many shrooms, rics, LPS, and esp zoas. The amount of soft corals that are medium-high light corals is much greater than those that are low-light in the trade at least.
 
I've got all of those and more under a 4 bulb Teklight T5 and no problems. My frogspawns and torches never cared for the 250De on my old tank, but they are thriving under the T5s. Mushrooms, zoas, rics and leathers are doing great as well.
 
i have one 150w MH 20k over my 29g.... everything from mushrooms to acros are growin like a champ and coloring up nice
 
i think people are missing the point. yes MH out performs other types of lights... the question though is what would be the best lighting option for his specific needs. PCs would do the job fine and are available used all the time for very cheap. I purchased my PC lights used and got 195 watts of light for $50.
 
i mean that it is generally accepted that MH is superior lighting compared to PC. for his specific needs though MH is not needed and PC would do just fine. i see great growth on all corals i keep and he is planning on keeping the same corals i currently do under PC lights. this hobby is so expensive i dont know why anyone would want to spend money on something they do not need.
 
Back
Top