Lighting Website Updates
- Thread starter Sanjay
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Navyblue
Low maintenance first
I have some questions. I hope the experts that hang out in this thread can answer. 
Currently I am running 2x150W DE MH (BLV 10000K on the left and Astralux on the right) on magnetic ballast (I don't know what ballast is that), with 2x54W HO T5 Aqualight Coral Blue tubes. The tank is an 4'x2'x2'.
I have some mushrooms (discosoma) that appeared to be colouring up nicely. My problem is I have some other mushrooms (yuma and hairy mushrooms) that remains very brown, they are mid way up in the tank
They are opening up nicely, so I guess the flow is fine. I also have undetectable nitrate and phosphate, so I guess my water quality is fine too. So that left me with lighting. Yes? No?
My question is, is there anything wrong with my lighting? Is the intensity too strong or too weak to cause the browning? Or would changing to Phoenix 14000K bulb helps?
The 250W version of the Phoenix seems on par with the BLV 10000K on magnetic ballast in term of PPFD, which is not bad for a 14000K. I wonder if I'll be seeing similar result with the 150W version?
Thanks in advance.
Currently I am running 2x150W DE MH (BLV 10000K on the left and Astralux on the right) on magnetic ballast (I don't know what ballast is that), with 2x54W HO T5 Aqualight Coral Blue tubes. The tank is an 4'x2'x2'.
I have some mushrooms (discosoma) that appeared to be colouring up nicely. My problem is I have some other mushrooms (yuma and hairy mushrooms) that remains very brown, they are mid way up in the tank
They are opening up nicely, so I guess the flow is fine. I also have undetectable nitrate and phosphate, so I guess my water quality is fine too. So that left me with lighting. Yes? No?
My question is, is there anything wrong with my lighting? Is the intensity too strong or too weak to cause the browning? Or would changing to Phoenix 14000K bulb helps?
The 250W version of the Phoenix seems on par with the BLV 10000K on magnetic ballast in term of PPFD, which is not bad for a 14000K. I wonder if I'll be seeing similar result with the 150W version?
Thanks in advance.
Randall_James
Premium Member
Just start at the bottom of the measured area and zig zag to the top, infinite readings?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9256471#post9256471 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
That my friend is simple... Your robot does not even have to be that precise... a simple pair of steppers and a serial port will do
The motors do not have to big or strong like in a router, so the cost should be minimal. Did you have a look at the most recent CNC thread?
I am thinking about changing my lighting system.
Currently I'm running 3 x 250w AB 10Ks DE with IceCap Ballasts and in PFO mini Pendants.
I am looking to get a little bluer color. The ABs are kind of yellow, but I love the PAR. I want something with similar PAR ,but with a more crisp white look.
Here are some choices I have been thinking about. Tell me what you guys think?
1) 10K Reeflux SE 250w, IceCap Ballast and Lumenarc Mini
2) 14K Pheonixs DE 250w, SLS HQI Ballast and Lumenare DE Mini or stay with PFO mini.
Also, I have been all over Sanjay's site and I have notices that many of the 250w SE bulbs where producing more PAR/better color temp than the 250w DE bulbs. Does the DE reflectors push the DE bulbs way beyond the SE bulbs when it comes to PAR. And in to the range of the 400w SEs with good reflector? If yes, does the Lumen Arc level the playing field?
Currently I'm running 3 x 250w AB 10Ks DE with IceCap Ballasts and in PFO mini Pendants.
I am looking to get a little bluer color. The ABs are kind of yellow, but I love the PAR. I want something with similar PAR ,but with a more crisp white look.
Here are some choices I have been thinking about. Tell me what you guys think?
1) 10K Reeflux SE 250w, IceCap Ballast and Lumenarc Mini
2) 14K Pheonixs DE 250w, SLS HQI Ballast and Lumenare DE Mini or stay with PFO mini.
Also, I have been all over Sanjay's site and I have notices that many of the 250w SE bulbs where producing more PAR/better color temp than the 250w DE bulbs. Does the DE reflectors push the DE bulbs way beyond the SE bulbs when it comes to PAR. And in to the range of the 400w SEs with good reflector? If yes, does the Lumen Arc level the playing field?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
You may get a LOT more feedback if you start a new thread...
Reflectors make a lot of difference. There are now good offerings in the DE and SE market. I like the SLS ROIII and Lumenmax stuff.
Reflectors make a lot of difference. There are now good offerings in the DE and SE market. I like the SLS ROIII and Lumenmax stuff.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Many of the 250wattSE bulbs on DE ballasts are being overdriven (most are actually, as there are very few SE bulbs that are HQI rated) and will burn faster because you are pretty much taking a 250watt bulb and putting it on a 300 watt ballast. For more accurate comparison, compare 250wattSE bulbs on M58 magnetic or electronic ballasts to DE bulbs on HQI/M80 ballasts... those are the suggested mfg. spec ballasts for each type of bulb.
TropTrea
New member
First off the blue color.
The bluer the bulb is or the higher the color temperature of the bulb the lower the Par is going to be. Basicly it takes more electrical energy top produce bue light than it does to produce yellow light. So if your simply trying to stay with bulbs that are MH's keep your par at the same or higher value and also raise your color temperature the only way to do it is to increase the wattage.
My sugestion to everyone is to start with a bulb that will give you max PAR for your tank. Then add additional T-5's to increase the blue and atinic frequencies to your personal taste.
While it is true that a good reflector can increase your light by a considerable amount keep in mind some of the price tags on reflectors. With adding three reflectors to get more out of your 250 watt bulbs in some cases you might be cheaper off simply changing one of them over to a 400 watt unit. I have seen more than system using 2-250 watt 6,500K bulbs, and a 400W 14,000K in the center.
As far as using various ballasts with different bulbs to get higher output it realy turns out to be a game. The reason there getting higher output is because they are pumping mre voltage into these bulbs creating more wattage and power usage. Remembering that most of that wattage is going up in the form of heat these bulbs will then burn hotter than with another type of ballast. The heat of these bulbs is what eventually causes them to burn up. Now adding more heat to them will definatly shorten there life. But where the question falls is will it reduce there life by 10% or byt 60%. This variies from bulb to bulb and from ballast to ballast.
Dennis
The bluer the bulb is or the higher the color temperature of the bulb the lower the Par is going to be. Basicly it takes more electrical energy top produce bue light than it does to produce yellow light. So if your simply trying to stay with bulbs that are MH's keep your par at the same or higher value and also raise your color temperature the only way to do it is to increase the wattage.
My sugestion to everyone is to start with a bulb that will give you max PAR for your tank. Then add additional T-5's to increase the blue and atinic frequencies to your personal taste.
While it is true that a good reflector can increase your light by a considerable amount keep in mind some of the price tags on reflectors. With adding three reflectors to get more out of your 250 watt bulbs in some cases you might be cheaper off simply changing one of them over to a 400 watt unit. I have seen more than system using 2-250 watt 6,500K bulbs, and a 400W 14,000K in the center.
As far as using various ballasts with different bulbs to get higher output it realy turns out to be a game. The reason there getting higher output is because they are pumping mre voltage into these bulbs creating more wattage and power usage. Remembering that most of that wattage is going up in the form of heat these bulbs will then burn hotter than with another type of ballast. The heat of these bulbs is what eventually causes them to burn up. Now adding more heat to them will definatly shorten there life. But where the question falls is will it reduce there life by 10% or byt 60%. This variies from bulb to bulb and from ballast to ballast.
Dennis
northbay-reefer
Active member
Antman, even if it gets tested, the result wont be available for months so dont hold your breath. The reefkeeper magazine is good but its about 2 years behind the time on MH lighitng info.
Last edited:
That is in this month's Reffkeeping
http://reefkeeping.com/
http://reefkeeping.com/
Sango-chu
New member
Thanks Rothie, however, I was looking for the chart that Sanjay created which listed all the types of bulbs he tested and thier position designation. Why? I purchased what I was told were XMs 10K 250watters and they came to me within the pendant they included - in a vertical position. I made a canopy and positioned it horizontal and the lamp is screeching like a banshee in heat (pardon the oun get it lamp - heat..) anyways, I read the part about the nipple...alwayts learning, but still would lije to get my hands on that chart...
Lou
Lou
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
The bulb should have a V or H in the model numbers around the base... you can figure out what they mean.
northbay-reefer
Active member
Sanjay, After looking at the EVC result in the previous AA issue, I notice that you have the 250 watt EVC 20k having more par than the 250 watt EVC 14k. But when I go to your web site and compare the two bulbs, you have the EVC 14k listed with me par than the 20k. Is there something that I am missing ??? Iam particularly interested in the result with the icecap ballast. Thanks
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/2/aafeature/view?searchterm=spectral
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/2/aafeature/view?searchterm=spectral
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