Sanjay, my name is Robert and I am starting a new 130 gal quarter cylinder. Its 30" deep and I was hoping you could help and suggest what lighting to use. What's your favorite right now? I was thinking of either two 250's or 400's but as far as bulbs im lost... I was thinking hamilton 14k with actinics. What might be better? I was gonna go with the Lumenarc minis, but if you think 250's are good I might go with the DE stealth. What would be best. Im sorry for the question im sure your very busy but your the expert and I want to get this right. Thanks for your help.
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hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Ive got a couple brand new 250wattDE Ushio 14,000Ks laying around. If you PM me with an addy, I can send them to you. I bought them for future use, but wont need them until April for the new tank. Even at that, I have plenty of other bulbs laying around that could fill in.
Wow... that Iwasaki 175w 15,000K is a monster... too bad its a 175watter (probe).
So the G-man bulbs just need to be added to the site... cool.
Well, how about that ELOS and Aquascience bulb? If I buy them and have them sent to you, do you promise to forward them to me when you are done...lol. Otherwise, I bet ELOS and Fauna-Marin would be pretty positive about sending you samples. That ELOS bulb in particular really has my attention. I dont know of any other DE bulbs with the UV sheild built in like that (wasnt there a Ushio/BLV that was supposed to have that?). The built in sheild might give it a serious advantage.
BTW, did you ever get around to that long term experiment with the 12 month old SE & DE bulbs on e-ballasts vs. HQI? Thats a test I bet many would like to see.
northbay-reefer
Active member
Sanjay, Since the test is done, can you please tell me what is the par value for the 250 watt 12k reeflux on an icecap ballast is? TIA
TropTrea
New member
I'll definatly second that idea. I think this would be extremly important do to the number of individuals like me who ould like to run SE 250W bulbs on HQI ballasts to get a little extra PAR out of the bulbs.
Person aly I was thinking of either a Ushio 6,500K or XM 10,000K on an HQI ballast. However do to some of the discussion here I'm now very skeptical. Would I end up replacing my bulbs ever 3 months? or replacing the ballast every three months? How would the spectrum change over time?
I know form my old studies on florescent bulbs that are over driven you can get some drastic spectrum changes with time as some phosphates are burned up faster than others. However florescent tubes and ballasts are much less expensive than Metal Hides.
Dennis
Person aly I was thinking of either a Ushio 6,500K or XM 10,000K on an HQI ballast. However do to some of the discussion here I'm now very skeptical. Would I end up replacing my bulbs ever 3 months? or replacing the ballast every three months? How would the spectrum change over time?
I know form my old studies on florescent bulbs that are over driven you can get some drastic spectrum changes with time as some phosphates are burned up faster than others. However florescent tubes and ballasts are much less expensive than Metal Hides.
Dennis
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Sanjay,
I found a better place for everyone to view the work that the 'lego lighting' guys were doing...
http://archiv.korallenriff.de/Sindelfingen2006/leuchtenmessung_06.html
I think its funny because the very first thing they list at the top of their page is the work you and Marks have done with halide reflectors...lol. They are looking at us as we are looking at them!
They include more info on their Lego Robot, and other things. You should contact those guys... get an automated testing system setup so all you have to do is mount the bulb and press 'enter'...lol.
I found a better place for everyone to view the work that the 'lego lighting' guys were doing...
http://archiv.korallenriff.de/Sindelfingen2006/leuchtenmessung_06.html
I think its funny because the very first thing they list at the top of their page is the work you and Marks have done with halide reflectors...lol. They are looking at us as we are looking at them!
They include more info on their Lego Robot, and other things. You should contact those guys... get an automated testing system setup so all you have to do is mount the bulb and press 'enter'...lol.
german_reef
New member
if this is the case why do they have different values when comparing those two?
for Ushio:
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....3=Ushio 400W 10000K SE 1&x4=PFO 400W HQI&x5=N
for Hamilton:
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....amilton 400W 10000K SE 1&x4=PFO 400W HQI&x5=N
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Oh, sorry, I thought you were talking about DE bulbs...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Sanjay what is the ETA on the 150W DE tests like the Phoenix etc?
TropTrea
New member
Actually if you took bulbs from the same production line only about 3 months apart in the production runs you might see as much varience as your seeing between these bulbs.
I know of one individual who bought the same bulb from two different sources and they used both to replace there old bulbs they had a different color tint on oppositre ends of there tank. one was redish and the other more yellow.
Looking at the PAR there is roughly a 20% difference and the Color temp is within 5% so this could easily be the same bulb only manufactured in different lots.
This is why a quality sample is not just taking just one unit but running a considerable number of units and the number of units tested depends upon the variances between the units already tested. Then you establish and average as well as range for the units that were tested. The units with the smallest range are the most consistant and those with wide ranges become less less consistant to the point where they could be out of control.
Now the question is what is out of control. If they can list a light bulb with a K temp of 5,000K different from what is measures there is no standard that says they are falsly advertising it.
Show me a light bulb that actually measures 20,000K?
Dennis
I know of one individual who bought the same bulb from two different sources and they used both to replace there old bulbs they had a different color tint on oppositre ends of there tank. one was redish and the other more yellow.
Looking at the PAR there is roughly a 20% difference and the Color temp is within 5% so this could easily be the same bulb only manufactured in different lots.
This is why a quality sample is not just taking just one unit but running a considerable number of units and the number of units tested depends upon the variances between the units already tested. Then you establish and average as well as range for the units that were tested. The units with the smallest range are the most consistant and those with wide ranges become less less consistant to the point where they could be out of control.
Now the question is what is out of control. If they can list a light bulb with a K temp of 5,000K different from what is measures there is no standard that says they are falsly advertising it.
Show me a light bulb that actually measures 20,000K?
Dennis
fishsoldseprtly
In Memoriam
anyone know what the standard life is on a 250W SE HELIOS on HQI? I know that RADIUMS last about 6MO But any clue on the Helios? Thanks
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hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Just got a response from Phil at Xenia USA...
He says that all the Giesemann 400wattSE bulbs are in fact HQI rated. He was even trying to explain to me how to check a bulb's internals visually and all to see for myself (so I will assume he knows what Im talking about, not just pulling names out of thin air). So add Giesemann 400 watt SE bulbs to the small list of HQI rated 400wattSE bulbs. Ushio/BLV nepturion 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K... Aquaconnect 14,000K, and Aqualine 10,000K.
He says that all the Giesemann 400wattSE bulbs are in fact HQI rated. He was even trying to explain to me how to check a bulb's internals visually and all to see for myself (so I will assume he knows what Im talking about, not just pulling names out of thin air). So add Giesemann 400 watt SE bulbs to the small list of HQI rated 400wattSE bulbs. Ushio/BLV nepturion 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K... Aquaconnect 14,000K, and Aqualine 10,000K.
BreadmanMike
New member
Does this mean that by running them on electronic ballasts(underdriving them), I can shorten the bulb life? They cost too much to have to replace them more often then needed.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Possible, but I will admit, that is a question that some of us have been asking for some time now. In theory, yes, if the halides are not excited enough with an e-ballast to match the output of a HQI ballast, then that would mean that they are depositing themselves on the bulb wall.
I have found e-ballasts to run a couple bulbs to dim faster (yes, I know they start out dimmer, but they also diminish with what they have faster as well).
I wish they would just come out with a HQI rated e-ballast and then this wouldnt be such a problem.
I have found e-ballasts to run a couple bulbs to dim faster (yes, I know they start out dimmer, but they also diminish with what they have faster as well).
I wish they would just come out with a HQI rated e-ballast and then this wouldnt be such a problem.
ReefCresteds
New member
Does anyone have any info on the Hamilton 400W 20000K bulbs? I don't see this in Sanjay's chart. I'm trying to compare it w/ the XM 400W 20000K bulbs.
Thanks
Thanks
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
$$$ Thousands $$$
Dennis, he does list the meters he uses in his reviews.
Dennis, he does list the meters he uses in his reviews.
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