hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Here are some numbers from my last PAR comparison...
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hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Some might argue the validity of those numbers, since Im not exactly comparing the best performers from either category... but let me explain:
The color of both setups is very similar. Some might remember when I ran a pheonix 14,000K on this tank. I claimed that the pheonix and the T5s were a color match... and they are... but the EVC has an actinic peak that the pheonix lacks... so even though its a little duller, its an even closer color match. For those light values of the pheonix, you can simply use Sanjay's info archive to create a ratio: The EVC is perhaps the highest output 20,000K 250wattDE at an output of 64. The pheonix is at 88. So you can multiply all the numbers in the halide tank above by 88/64 to see what the pheonix would be scoring. Or, you could multiply by 126/88 for the Giesemann Coral. This may not take into account the degrading over time, but were at 5 months here... not exactly that long for a 250wattDE... pretty much the same as a car with 20,000miles.
The T5s could be brighter too... I could run the 'power combo' that I know some people use of GE 6500Ks and blue+ bulbs. Its a very bright combo... perhaps the most powerful I know of (well, with the older GE bulbs at least... now maybe Middays or Sun pro bulbs would be better).
But this is to show how combos that almost match in color look and compare PAR wise. All I gotta say is... The T5s are much better at making blue than halides are.
The color of both setups is very similar. Some might remember when I ran a pheonix 14,000K on this tank. I claimed that the pheonix and the T5s were a color match... and they are... but the EVC has an actinic peak that the pheonix lacks... so even though its a little duller, its an even closer color match. For those light values of the pheonix, you can simply use Sanjay's info archive to create a ratio: The EVC is perhaps the highest output 20,000K 250wattDE at an output of 64. The pheonix is at 88. So you can multiply all the numbers in the halide tank above by 88/64 to see what the pheonix would be scoring. Or, you could multiply by 126/88 for the Giesemann Coral. This may not take into account the degrading over time, but were at 5 months here... not exactly that long for a 250wattDE... pretty much the same as a car with 20,000miles.
The T5s could be brighter too... I could run the 'power combo' that I know some people use of GE 6500Ks and blue+ bulbs. Its a very bright combo... perhaps the most powerful I know of (well, with the older GE bulbs at least... now maybe Middays or Sun pro bulbs would be better).
But this is to show how combos that almost match in color look and compare PAR wise. All I gotta say is... The T5s are much better at making blue than halides are.
BreadmanMike
New member
Any info anywhere on the 250w SE 14.5k Gman? Is this a probe start bulb? Par?
After scrapping several new tank ideas, I decided to do a 48x48x24. I'm leaning towards running 4 175w 15k Iwasaki's on ARO or EVC ballasts in LA minis.
I'd definitely tank other suggestions if anyone has any.
After scrapping several new tank ideas, I decided to do a 48x48x24. I'm leaning towards running 4 175w 15k Iwasaki's on ARO or EVC ballasts in LA minis.
I'd definitely tank other suggestions if anyone has any.
BreadmanMike
New member
On second thought I think I'm going to run two large Lumenarcs in the middle with my 400's I already have. I'll put 2 VHO actinics and 2 overdriven B+ T5's and a normal driven aquablue T5 on either side.
I was thinking of switching to HQI ballasts to drive my bulbs since we now know they are HQI rated.
Anyone think this is too much?
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
You could do dual 250wattDEs on light movers, flanked by 4-8 54wattT5 bulbs. That would be my strategy.
4x4x2'h? Thats a favorite of mine.
4x4x2'h? Thats a favorite of mine.
BreadmanMike
New member
It's going to be in the living room, so I have to use a canopy. The last open top tank I tried in the living room was annoying from the halides. It seemed no matter where you sat, the halides would blind you.
I really wanted to go 4x4x2.5, but it just wasn't in the budget.
I really wanted to go 4x4x2.5, but it just wasn't in the budget.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Aquaticman74, Im putting my light mover in a canopy...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thanks for all of the [subliminal]150W[/subliminal] great work you have been [subliminal]DE bulbs[/subliminal] doing for the reef lighting community. Your database and work are one of the most useful reefing resources [subliminal]updates?[/subliminal] that I have ever seen.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
That my friend is simple... Your robot does not even have to be that precise... a simple pair of steppers and a serial port will do 
The motors do not have to big or strong like in a router, so the cost should be minimal. Did you have a look at the most recent CNC thread?
The motors do not have to big or strong like in a router, so the cost should be minimal. Did you have a look at the most recent CNC thread?
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
http://archiv.korallenriff.de/Sindelfingen2006/003-sponsoren.jpg
Bean, Sanjay's idea is based on this idea that I showed him^^^. Perhaps there is something even better (besides using a PAR meter rather than a Lux meter).
Bean, Sanjay's idea is based on this idea that I showed him^^^. Perhaps there is something even better (besides using a PAR meter rather than a Lux meter).
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9256281#post9256281 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
Hey Bean, the automation guru - Help me build a cheap cartesian robot and I can churn out the light tests a lot faster. rally, the DIY troops on this project.
sanjay.
Wouldn't it be less moving parts to just pay a kid a quarter to keep moving the sensor for you
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
He he he... But the whole point was so that Sanjay can sit back and drink beers while the tests are running. Cant do that and supervise the little kid, now can you? Maybe...
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
FWIW, I think that kids really do have more moving parts anyways... at least most of theones I see look like they are made of too many (running around, screaming, bouncing, arms flailing, head spinning... thats alot of moving parts).
Whaaah? Sanjay... the key is you have to raise your kids with the understanding that they are in a socialist state. That way, they are more than helpful when they are young, for fear of their own lives and thinking that they are 'contributing to the greater good', and when they get old enough to know they have been lied to all those years, then they pack their bags and leave! Its the best of both worlds!
Whaaah? Sanjay... the key is you have to raise your kids with the understanding that they are in a socialist state. That way, they are more than helpful when they are young, for fear of their own lives and thinking that they are 'contributing to the greater good', and when they get old enough to know they have been lied to all those years, then they pack their bags and leave! Its the best of both worlds!
BreadmanMike
New member
Are the 250w DE 14k Ushio's yellow?
BreadmanMike
New member
Sanjay,
Was there any reason you used a shield when you tested the 400w SE 14.5k Gieseman bulbs?
Thanks!
Was there any reason you used a shield when you tested the 400w SE 14.5k Gieseman bulbs?
Thanks!
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Where did Sanjay test the 400wattSE 14,500K bulbs?
Anyways, the 250wattDE Ushio 14,000K is a rather yellow bulb. Its like their 10,000K, only slightly less red/orange, and slightly more actinic.... but its so slight.... its almost the same bulb as their 10,000K really.
Anyways, the 250wattDE Ushio 14,000K is a rather yellow bulb. Its like their 10,000K, only slightly less red/orange, and slightly more actinic.... but its so slight.... its almost the same bulb as their 10,000K really.
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