Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235743#post15235743 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Yes. I use BluMol or Rigid holesaws, both available at Home Depot.

I have the Rigid set - that increases my confidence level somewhat...

Do you use tubing between your tank bulkheads and pump fittings to minimize vibration and noise? I do on my small pumps, but just wonder how that would work on bad boy pumps like the Barracuda...

LL

 

[melev]

SpaFlex tubing between the bulkhead and the union is a very good idea. It helps dampen vibrations, gives you a little bit of leeway, and also allows for future changes if you have at least a few inches of play.

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235773#post15235773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
SpaFlex tubing between the bulkhead and the union is a very good idea. It helps dampen vibrations, gives you a little bit of leeway, and also allows for future changes if you have at least a few inches of play.

That's what I've always done since I've been using external pumps...

Fortunately in this stand, I'll have lots of play...

Should I clamp it on a barb fitting like tubing, or prime/glue the Spaflex in a slip connector (as thoough it regular PVC)? I'm thinking the latter...

LL

 

[melev]

I prefer gluing it into slip fittings just like PVC, using the correct solvent.

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235790#post15235790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I prefer gluing it into slip fittings just like PVC, using the correct solvent.

That's what I expected. Thanks.

LL

 

[Lytehouse]

No secret to drilling the acrylic, except keeping the drill at 90 degrees, but that's a no brainer.

Good luck with all the plumbing.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Done.

Done.

Thanks Lynn.

The acrylic sump is under the stand.

I removed the big double union ball valve on the sump. Cleaned the hole, replaced the bulkhead and will put a cap on it.
I will drill the new hole in the end of the sump as soon as I locate a bulkhead for a 1-1/2" fitting. I had no idea how hard it would be to find proper bulkheads in this area...

In the meantime, I am roughing in the closed loop fittings...

This is going slower than expected. Our major plumbing supply store is a joke, unless you're looking for galvanized or copper... :smokin:

LL

 

[Lytehouse]

Re: Re: making room

Re: Re: making room

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235696#post15235696 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Thanks, Lynn.



I will make sure the the hole for the new bulkhead lines up with the pump intake...that will be easy enough to do...

Did your old return pump actually have a 2" intake, or did you reduce down to a smaller pipe?

LL

All my plumbing was 1 1/4. I have the big boy PVC cutters, instead of the little hand cutters if you want. They will cut up to 2 in pipe.

As far as your later post, the only true union valves in OKC I've ever found or heard any talk about was one of the 2 big stores, either HD or Lowes. Nobody else carries them. That's where the 2 that are on the sump came from.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: Re: making room

Re: Re: Re: making room

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15237212#post15237212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lytehouse
All my plumbing was 1 1/4. I have the big boy PVC cutters, instead of the little hand cutters if you want. They will cut up to 2 in pipe.

As far as your later post, the only true union valves in OKC I've ever found or heard any talk about was one of the 2 big stores, either HD or Lowes. Nobody else carries them. That's where the 2 that are on the sump came from.

I'm pretty sure that was a 2" union valve, then reduced down to 1-1/4"... one side is stuck - can't get the union to loosen... but I have another...

I may take you up on the loan of the cutter... will it cut flexible PVC?

LL

 

[mfd574]

things are looking great

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235593#post15235593 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
In this picture, it appears as if you used teflon tape on the pipe screwing into the bulkheads...

If you did, I would suggest unscrewing them and apply any additional coating of teflon paste over the tape, and screwing them in again. I've noticed that teflon paste never lets me down on threaded connections.

On all the unions, I'd recommend apply some silicone grease to the threaded section so you can easily undo them in the future. Every time I install new ones or open up older connections, I apply the stuff to make it easier for future maintenance.

Marc,

I picked up some teflon paste at the Depot today. Let's just say I am on first name terms with the Plumbing Department head at HD. (of course I've known him for over 10 years...)

I am just cutting and fitting the plumbing right now... no glue in sight. Tomorrow I will position the 1" Spaflex for the closed loop circle. Then I will remove the threaded fittings and apply the paste.

After that is done, it will be time to start gluing the PVC. I am trying to figure a logical way to glue the joints, so I don't glue myself into a corner, so to speak...

I throw some pictures up later of today's little progress...

LL

 

[peaceinusa]

Dang George....You ain't wasting time getting this dog setup. I commend you on asking for advice on virtually every step. I am sure the initial water fill, sump installation, skimmer installation and other various plumbing will go smooth when filled with water.

This has to be one of the more comprehensive large tank threads that I have read, covering every aspect of the tank location, construction, setup, build and lighting.

Again,
I am willing to assist in the tank base and canopy wood work if needed (for the small nominal fee of your billy bad smoked ribs and beer...)

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15239752#post15239752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by peaceinusa
Dang George....You ain't wasting time getting this dog setup. I commend you on asking for advice on virtually every step. I am sure the initial water fill, sump installation, skimmer installation and other various plumbing will go smooth when filled with water.

This has to be one of the more comprehensive large tank threads that I have read, covering every aspect of the tank location, construction, setup, build and lighting.

Again,
I am willing to assist in the tank base and canopy wood work if needed (for the small nominal fee of your billy bad smoked ribs and beer...)

You got a deal! I'll let you know when the doors get here - should be early next week...maybe we can do something over the holiday weekend if you're in town... I hope to have water in it by then...

LL

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15239654#post15239654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Marc,

I picked up some teflon paste at the Depot today. Let's just say I am on first name terms with the Plumbing Department head at HD. (of course I've known him for over 10 years...)

I am just cutting and fitting the plumbing right now... no glue in sight. Tomorrow I will position the 1" Spaflex for the closed loop circle. Then I will remove the threaded fittings and apply the paste.

After that is done, it will be time to start gluing the PVC. I am trying to figure a logical way to glue the joints, so I don't glue myself into a corner, so to speak...

I throw some pictures up later of today's little progress...

LL

Keep in mind that as you dry fit pieces together, they will not go in as deeply as they will with the cleaner & solvent. Try to take those measurements into mind. Usually, PVC fits about 1" into each socket.

If you press the dry fittings together too tightly, it can be almost impossible to pull them apart.

What I like to do is assemble everything in between the two final points, doing my best to keep everything aligned properly. You could use a sharpie to make matching lines on each fitting and nearest pipe connection, that way as you glue the line up as planned. Then I'll rinse out the glued plumbing to flush out any junk and toxins, gluing the last two fittings in place. If you used unions, that helps because the main section can be removed for that rinsing and then installed again.

Let it cure 24 hours before adding water for maximum cure time.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Some changes...

Some changes...

As I get equipment laid out, I doscover that my "mind" picture of the fish room sometimes doesn't mesh with reality. So changes are made.

The first thing I did was place the acrylic sump in the traditional position under the stand... I capped the original return bulkhead and tomorrow will drill a new hole in the end of the tank.

Here is the way the layout has evolved:
From this:

To this:

The Rubbermaid sump has now been moved closer to the tank, and raised 10" on blocks to facilitate gravity overflow into the acrylic sump's return chamber.

Plumbing laidout for the closed loop, except for the Spaflax which will tie all the returns into a continuos circle:

The return pump will be on the end of the acrylic sump, instead of the side as previously planned:

There will be 3/4" plywood under the Rubbermaid in addition to the blocks. The Reeflo Orca 250 skimmer will also be raised 8" on concrete blocks to allow proper outflow into the acrylic sump.

Time for a good night's sleep.

LL

 

[melev]

Keep in mind that those concrete blocks should always be in the correct orientation so they don't break. They are strongest when the internal holes are vertical (as if you were going to pour concrete in those voids) rather than horizontal.

What return pump is that? The sump seems rather small for that one. A larger return section would be better.

Would that trough fit under the display tank?

 

[Lytehouse]

couple of thoughts

couple of thoughts

George,

Looking at your last pics I noticed a couple of things I thought I would mention:

1) I looks like you have plugs on the wall behind the rubbermaid and the new water containers. It may be worth installing the type of covers used for outdoor plugs to make them water resistant;

2) The trough sits just below the heat pump. How long before the evaporating salt water creates a problem with that?;

3) When I raised discus, I had a black trough like that one sitting next to the wall and the evaporation eventually bubbled the paint. Might be helpful to give an inch or so from the wall.

Just my thoughts......

 

[porthios]

and if you can stomach one more suggestion..

give the bulkhead on that rubbermaid a good hard look. they're kind of notorious for leaking (or even failing) after a decent bump of any attached plumbing. might consider drilling the hole out to accept a proper bulkhead.

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15241564#post15241564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios
and if you can stomach one more suggestion..

give the bulkhead on that rubbermaid a good hard look. they're kind of notorious for leaking (or even failing) after a decent bump of any attached plumbing. might consider drilling the hole out to accept a proper bulkhead.

That one I already anticipated...thanks. When I drill out the hole for the sump's overflow, I planned to drill out the bottom as well and install a "proper" bulkead at both sites. I'll be using the lower one for my water changes...

Thanks!

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15240823#post15240823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Keep in mind that those concrete blocks should always be in the correct orientation so they don't break. They are strongest when the internal holes are vertical (as if you were going to pour concrete in those voids) rather than horizontal.

What return pump is that? The sump seems rather small for that one. A larger return section would be better.

Would that trough fit under the display tank?

The internal holes are vertical for the full sized blocks. The 4x8x16 blocks are in that orientation as I needed the proper oheight. There will be a piece of 3/4" plywood between the blocks and under the tub.

That's a Barracuda Gold pump. I realize it's a fairly small return chamber, but remeber that it will not only be pulling water from the acrylic sump; the Rubbermaid overflow will empty in there as well as the skimmer.

The trough will not fit under there. Too tall Jones.

Thanks for the observations...

LL