Kellsindell
New member
Wow! amazing set up. Everything is looking great.
Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
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Kellsindell
New member
Wow! amazing set up. Everything is looking great.
edandsandy
Active member
Re: Some changes...
Re: Some changes...
Re: Some changes...
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15240506#post15240506 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
To this:
The Rubbermaid sump has now been moved closer to the tank, and raised 10" on blocks to facilitate gravity overflow into the acrylic sump's return chamber.
I have to agree with Lytehouse on making things water resistant.
Have you thought about using FRP board behind that Rubbermaid sump?
Our entire room has FRP board to include the ceiling! We honestly think, this was one of the best decision we made when designing the room.
Water resistant?
Water resistant?
Gee whiz, it sounds like everybody expects me to make a mess in there... :lol:
I may look into FRP board behind the Rubbermaid... would this be for splash purposes, or just for general evap and humidity control?
I will be running the two exhaust fans vented through the roof 24/7 once water is in the tanks. In addition, the PTAC unit keeps humidity very low when it is running...draws much water out of the space...
LL
Water resistant?
Gee whiz, it sounds like everybody expects me to make a mess in there... :lol:
I may look into FRP board behind the Rubbermaid... would this be for splash purposes, or just for general evap and humidity control?
I will be running the two exhaust fans vented through the roof 24/7 once water is in the tanks. In addition, the PTAC unit keeps humidity very low when it is running...draws much water out of the space...
LL
Sour notes?
Sour notes?
I sincerely appreciate observation of anything I may have overlooked - I don't consider them sour notes...
I have changed directions several times in this build because of good advice I have received on here...
Better now rather than later after something is already built and not working the way I had hoped...
Thanks for tagging along!
LL
Sour notes?
I sincerely appreciate observation of anything I may have overlooked - I don't consider them sour notes...
I have changed directions several times in this build because of good advice I have received on here...
Better now rather than later after something is already built and not working the way I had hoped...
Thanks for tagging along!
LL
Thanks.
Thanks.
Thanks, Michael.
Please tag along and add your input anytime.
LL
Thanks.
Thanks, Michael.
Please tag along and add your input anytime.
LL
melev
Well-known member
On the area behind the rubbermaid, a sheet of acrylic affixed to the wall will keep saltcreep at bay. It should go up 12" higher than the vat, and maybe 6" below the lip. That would be the hotspot.
You could also use some type of clear contact paper perhaps, applying it to the wall.
My 55g's sump ate away at the sheetrock behind it, but it wasn't all that hard to fix. Still, a smooth wipe-able surface is always better.
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Are you going to do a freshwater test of all of this? With a small return section, the pump will drain it quickly. I don't know that your extra vat will replenish it quickly enough. What is the total gallons in that return section, once running? If you don't know, give us the dimensions.
I'm a huge fan of huge return sections, which is why I noticed this one quickly.
You could also use some type of clear contact paper perhaps, applying it to the wall.
My 55g's sump ate away at the sheetrock behind it, but it wasn't all that hard to fix. Still, a smooth wipe-able surface is always better.
---------
Are you going to do a freshwater test of all of this? With a small return section, the pump will drain it quickly. I don't know that your extra vat will replenish it quickly enough. What is the total gallons in that return section, once running? If you don't know, give us the dimensions.
I'm a huge fan of huge return sections, which is why I noticed this one quickly.
Volume...
Volume...
Convert from Inches to US-Gallons
Length Inches - 96"
Width Inches - 36"
Height Inches - 25.5"
Glass Thickness Inches .75"
An Aquarium of the above dimensions will hold approximately 359.7 US gallons of water.
Do you think I can re-name the thread to: "Lightsluvr's 359.7G Upgrade" ??
Naaaahhh....
Off work, back to plumbing...
LL
Volume...
Convert from Inches to US-Gallons
Length Inches - 96"
Width Inches - 36"
Height Inches - 25.5"
Glass Thickness Inches .75"
An Aquarium of the above dimensions will hold approximately 359.7 US gallons of water.
Do you think I can re-name the thread to: "Lightsluvr's 359.7G Upgrade" ??
Naaaahhh....
Off work, back to plumbing...
LL
peaceinusa
New member
The salt creep - slash guard ideas are dead on. After seeing this room in action and after the tank is in place, now is the time to put up some kind of splash guard to protect your walls (especially since the room was totally rebuilt for this tank).
As for the sumps, plumbing and placement, looks great. I like the idea of the rubber maid sump under the stand. Since this is a new build, new room and you are adding the RO/DI system and storage tanks, this room is going to fill up very fast.
The treadmill may not work out as you expect as the more you add and modify, the less floor space you will have available.
My opinion...drop the treadmill idea for this room as you will be wanting a place to store all the dry goods for the new system and you will be needing shelving to store all the "stuff".
As for the sumps, plumbing and placement, looks great. I like the idea of the rubber maid sump under the stand. Since this is a new build, new room and you are adding the RO/DI system and storage tanks, this room is going to fill up very fast.
The treadmill may not work out as you expect as the more you add and modify, the less floor space you will have available.
My opinion...drop the treadmill idea for this room as you will be wanting a place to store all the dry goods for the new system and you will be needing shelving to store all the "stuff".
12" x 18" and the water depth is 12"
I calculate about 10 gallons in there at any time, being replenished by 1.) the flow through the sump, PLUS 2) overflow from the Rubbermaid sump and 3.) the skimmer...
LL
melev
Well-known member
How many gallons per hour does your return pump move? You need to find out how long it will take for it to suck down 10g of water when it initially starts up, well before the tank, the rubbermaid refugium, or the skimmer can begin to add more water back into the sump.
Can the sump hold all the water those three items would drain in a power outage?
Can the sump hold all the water those three items would drain in a power outage?
The Rubbermaid will not fit under the stand. Plumbing for the closed loop precludes that option... I will add the suggested clear acrylic behind the Rubbermaid - a great idea.
If I can get the guys back to move the tank and stand, we can move the treadmill. (It won't fit through either door) :eek1:
Seriously, the treadmill will stay. (Compromise)
Everything that is going to be in the fishroom is already in there, so I have a clear idea how I want things to work - that is why I moved the acrylic sump under the stand...
I will add a few cabinets to store supplies, but they are factored into the floor plan...
LL
The return pump is a Barracuda Gold. The baffles in this 95G sump will be covered when the return pump is shut down, so the pump will also be drawing down water from the center chamber at startup.
I will have to assure that the return siphon breaks before the sump gets close to overflowing...I won't have the answer to that until we put water in the system, and adjust the dursos and the returns...
LL
melev
Well-known member
Some of the math can be figured out now. I just looked up that pump:
http://www.aquacave.com/reeflo-barracuda-gold-br-pump-4680-gph-2241.html
4680 GPH, or 78 gpm, or 1.3 gallons per second. If you have 10g in the return section, it would be drained in 12 seconds, which is far sooner than the tank can fill up with more water so that it can drain down any water that will refill the return section.
I realize that I'm not taking into account the head pressure, but that return section looks very small. That sump holds 95g? It looks like a 40g breeder. What are its dimensions?
The display tank will drain 15g of water for every inch that siphons out. The rubbermaid will probably drain about 10g off its surface. The skimmer may drain about 5g out of its body (pure guesstimate on my part). So your sump has to hold about 30g of extra water, even with working siphon breaks.
http://www.aquacave.com/reeflo-barracuda-gold-br-pump-4680-gph-2241.html
4680 GPH, or 78 gpm, or 1.3 gallons per second. If you have 10g in the return section, it would be drained in 12 seconds, which is far sooner than the tank can fill up with more water so that it can drain down any water that will refill the return section.
I realize that I'm not taking into account the head pressure, but that return section looks very small. That sump holds 95g? It looks like a 40g breeder. What are its dimensions?
The display tank will drain 15g of water for every inch that siphons out. The rubbermaid will probably drain about 10g off its surface. The skimmer may drain about 5g out of its body (pure guesstimate on my part). So your sump has to hold about 30g of extra water, even with working siphon breaks.
PM sent on the sump volume.
The Rubbermaid should drain 1-2 gallons. The Orca skimmer should drain whatever is in the drain pipe, but very little from the skimmer body. Everything is overflow fed, so when the overflows stop, the source of water stops. The key is how much water comes from the tank surface. If one return nozzle is at the surface, the siphon should break quickly...
You raised a good point which I am recalculating...
LL
.
Back to the acrylic sump -- it's 48x18x25, which works out to 90 gallons. (I had the wrong height previously) The size on the return chamber should include the entire section to the first baffle, when is actually 14.5x16.5x18, or roughly 17.8G. As mentioned, I expect water which is siphoned back into the tank to cover the baffles, meaning that at start up, the pump will be drawing that water down as well as it starts to overflow the DT.
So I have two options: 1.) scrap the entire acrylic sump, or 2.)give it a fresh water test after the plumbing is completed. I have double union ball valves on all four DT overflows, so if it looks like the sump is going to top out when the return pump is shut down, I can always close those valves before a spill occurs.
At this point, I think I will go with option 2. If the acrylic sump is inadequate, I will press a second Rubbermaid sump into temporary duty until I obtain a permanent solution...
LL
Progress report...
Progress report...
Just working on plumbing today... wearing a path to HD. However, discovered that Lowes has a better selection of PVC adapters & fittings.
Not much of photographic value - will photo the closed loop plumbing with Spaflex if I get it dry-fitted this evening...
LL
Progress report...
Just working on plumbing today... wearing a path to HD. However, discovered that Lowes has a better selection of PVC adapters & fittings.
Not much of photographic value - will photo the closed loop plumbing with Spaflex if I get it dry-fitted this evening...
LL
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