Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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Tell the funeral home - "no handles on my casket".... the pallbearers will use suction cups! :lol:
LL
Thanks...
Thanks...
Please feel free to subscribe and tag along...
LL
Thanks...
Please feel free to subscribe and tag along...
LL
I better get some life in there before mid-July, or I'm going to get awfully cranky... :smokin:
No cycle is expected - except maybe from "dead" sand, so we'll have to see what happens...
LL
Workin' the tank...
Workin' the tank...
Here's a picture of the tank with the light rack pushed out of the way so I could install bulkheads in the tank bottom...
Same view from above the front of the tank - euro bracing is seen in the foreground and the light rack in the "maintenance" position - fully to the rear.
Same as above from the side of the tank...
LL
Workin' the tank...
Here's a picture of the tank with the light rack pushed out of the way so I could install bulkheads in the tank bottom...
Same view from above the front of the tank - euro bracing is seen in the foreground and the light rack in the "maintenance" position - fully to the rear.
Same as above from the side of the tank...
LL
Plumbin' up
Plumbin' up
I installed the (5) 1" and (2) 1-1/2" bulkheads in the tank's PVC bottom. The bulkheads can be seen in this photo, along with the "manifold" that will connect the intake of the closed loop. The CL will be powered by a Barracuda Gold pump. I am trying to plumb the five returns in a complete circle, which I am told will equalize the output of all five returns.
I plan to send the 1-1/2" output of the Barracuda to a 1-1/2" T with outs to two 1" reducers. One side will go left - the other to the right. These pipes will join up to make a complete circle feeding the five returns. - I would like some input on this plan. Any experienced plumbers out there?
These ball valves would be glued to a T - with right and left feeds to the returns around the bottom of the tank...
My purpose for this arrangement is to have the same flow coming from each of the five return ports... Is this a good plan? Any questions or comments?
LL
Plumbin' up
I installed the (5) 1" and (2) 1-1/2" bulkheads in the tank's PVC bottom. The bulkheads can be seen in this photo, along with the "manifold" that will connect the intake of the closed loop. The CL will be powered by a Barracuda Gold pump. I am trying to plumb the five returns in a complete circle, which I am told will equalize the output of all five returns.
I plan to send the 1-1/2" output of the Barracuda to a 1-1/2" T with outs to two 1" reducers. One side will go left - the other to the right. These pipes will join up to make a complete circle feeding the five returns. - I would like some input on this plan. Any experienced plumbers out there?
These ball valves would be glued to a T - with right and left feeds to the returns around the bottom of the tank...
My purpose for this arrangement is to have the same flow coming from each of the five return ports... Is this a good plan? Any questions or comments?
LL
skiformance
skiformance racing
geez george, you've been slacking today. lol your theory is sound to me.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15234178#post15234178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kingsland
Looks great. I hope you haven't glued the plumbing on your skimmer yet. The tee looks to be too high. (been there and done that school of hard knocks)
I know what you're saying - I had that experience with the first of my Reef Octopus skimmers...
However, according to Reeflo, the T should be no higher than the "Reeflo" decal on the unit, like this:
LL
The equipment room (plan)
The equipment room (plan)
I have been debating today whether or not to put the acrylic sump in the stand... first it seems like a good idea, then I decide against it...mainly because the position of the 2" return on the side of the sump...awkward position, but I think I can make it work in the position shown below:
To clarify, both the skimmer and the acrylic sump will be on 4" concrete blocks plus a sheet of 3/4" plywood. The skimmer and acrylic sump will be fed by one (each) of the four overflows. The Return pump will be on an "arm" of the 3/4" plywood and will also be supported on the blocks.
Alternatively, I could just remove the 2" ball valve and cap the 2" bulkhead on the side of the sump, and drill a hole for a 1-1/2" bulkhead in the end of the unit, matching the intake of the Barracuda return pump. That configuration would easily fit under the stand and allow the Rubbermaid sump to move closer to the stand... Am I talking myself into this option? What do you think?
The Rubbermaid sump will be on 12" concrete blocks (plus 3/4" plywood) and will be fed by a third overflow from the tank. It will gravity feed overflow into the acrylic sump's return chamber.
Finally, I plan the have the two 65G vertical water tanks at least 24" above the floor, on concrete blocks topped with 3/4" plywood. They will be plumbed as shown in edandsandy's 375G build thread.
I tried to explain this plan in a crude diagram I placed early in the thread. Hopefully these photos and description make more sense...
Feel free to make observations and suggestions...
LL
The equipment room (plan)
I have been debating today whether or not to put the acrylic sump in the stand... first it seems like a good idea, then I decide against it...mainly because the position of the 2" return on the side of the sump...awkward position, but I think I can make it work in the position shown below:
To clarify, both the skimmer and the acrylic sump will be on 4" concrete blocks plus a sheet of 3/4" plywood. The skimmer and acrylic sump will be fed by one (each) of the four overflows. The Return pump will be on an "arm" of the 3/4" plywood and will also be supported on the blocks.
Alternatively, I could just remove the 2" ball valve and cap the 2" bulkhead on the side of the sump, and drill a hole for a 1-1/2" bulkhead in the end of the unit, matching the intake of the Barracuda return pump. That configuration would easily fit under the stand and allow the Rubbermaid sump to move closer to the stand... Am I talking myself into this option? What do you think?
The Rubbermaid sump will be on 12" concrete blocks (plus 3/4" plywood) and will be fed by a third overflow from the tank. It will gravity feed overflow into the acrylic sump's return chamber.
Finally, I plan the have the two 65G vertical water tanks at least 24" above the floor, on concrete blocks topped with 3/4" plywood. They will be plumbed as shown in edandsandy's 375G build thread.
I tried to explain this plan in a crude diagram I placed early in the thread. Hopefully these photos and description make more sense...
Feel free to make observations and suggestions...
LL
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making room
making room
As large as your room seems, it is quickly getting smaller by the piece of equipment. If the plumbing isn't going to hang down too far-- I'd get the 90 gal acrylic under the tank, even if it means re drilling. Just my thoughts.
making room
As large as your room seems, it is quickly getting smaller by the piece of equipment. If the plumbing isn't going to hang down too far-- I'd get the 90 gal acrylic under the tank, even if it means re drilling. Just my thoughts.
melev
Well-known member
In this picture, it appears as if you used teflon tape on the pipe screwing into the bulkheads...
If you did, I would suggest unscrewing them and apply any additional coating of teflon paste over the tape, and screwing them in again. I've noticed that teflon paste never lets me down on threaded connections.
On all the unions, I'd recommend apply some silicone grease to the threaded section so you can easily undo them in the future. Every time I install new ones or open up older connections, I apply the stuff to make it easier for future maintenance.
If you did, I would suggest unscrewing them and apply any additional coating of teflon paste over the tape, and screwing them in again. I've noticed that teflon paste never lets me down on threaded connections.
On all the unions, I'd recommend apply some silicone grease to the threaded section so you can easily undo them in the future. Every time I install new ones or open up older connections, I apply the stuff to make it easier for future maintenance.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15235593#post15235593 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
In this picture, it appears as if you used teflon tape on the pipe screwing into the bulkheads...
If you did, I would suggest unscrewing them and apply any additional coating of teflon paste over the tape, and screwing them in again. I've noticed that teflon paste never lets me down on threaded connections.
On all the unions, I'd recommend apply some silicone grease to the threaded section so you can easily undo them in the future. Every time I install new ones or open up older connections, I apply the stuff to make it easier for future maintenance.
The teflon paste can be applied right over the tape?
Sounds like good advice... more items to add to the plumbing list for tomorrow...
LL
melev
Well-known member
Yes, right over it. That way if the fitting or the pipe aren't perfectly round, the paste will fill it in. I've used it on many threaded fittings without issues with livestock, and since your system is brand new I think the skimmer and the cycle will take care of any potential issues.
Don't apply it liberally like you are trying to caulk the Holland Dike, just apply a nice thin coating that makes the threads vanish and screw it in. Wipe off the excess to keep things tidy.
Don't apply it liberally like you are trying to caulk the Holland Dike, just apply a nice thin coating that makes the threads vanish and screw it in. Wipe off the excess to keep things tidy.
Re: making room
Re: making room
Thanks, Lynn.
That's the way I was leaning. I will just cap both of those bulkheads on the side of the tank. I have never dilled acrylic before..any secrets? It seems that I remember that you should take it slowly, to avoid overheating... Marc, are you reading this?
I will make sure the the hole for the new bulkhead lines up with the pump intake...that will be easy enough to do...
Did your old return pump actually have a 2" intake, or did you reduce down to a smaller pipe?
LL
Re: making room
Thanks, Lynn.
That's the way I was leaning. I will just cap both of those bulkheads on the side of the tank. I have never dilled acrylic before..any secrets? It seems that I remember that you should take it slowly, to avoid overheating... Marc, are you reading this?
I will make sure the the hole for the new bulkhead lines up with the pump intake...that will be easy enough to do...
Did your old return pump actually have a 2" intake, or did you reduce down to a smaller pipe?
LL
Last edited:
On my list of things to re-do tomorrow...
Can I just use a standard hole saw to cut acrylic?
LL
Flow accelerators...
Flow accelerators...
Two early morning questions...
On my closed loop:
Who has used Pacific Coast flow accelerators? Are they as good as advertised? (400% increase in flow)
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...orts&idProduct=FT0033&IdCategory=FIFTFB&tab=0
My bulkheads are slip connections, while locline and flow accelerators both use MPT theads. Can I just slip 1" PVC firmly into the bulkhead (without gluing), and then glue the appropriate sized MPT adaptor on the other end of the pipe? I had intended to use locline for my closed loop returns, so I would cross this hurdle eventually...
Hopefully the return pressure won't be sufficient to blow the PVC out of the bulkhead...
LL
Flow accelerators...
Two early morning questions...
On my closed loop:
Who has used Pacific Coast flow accelerators? Are they as good as advertised? (400% increase in flow)
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...orts&idProduct=FT0033&IdCategory=FIFTFB&tab=0
My bulkheads are slip connections, while locline and flow accelerators both use MPT theads. Can I just slip 1" PVC firmly into the bulkhead (without gluing), and then glue the appropriate sized MPT adaptor on the other end of the pipe? I had intended to use locline for my closed loop returns, so I would cross this hurdle eventually...
Hopefully the return pressure won't be sufficient to blow the PVC out of the bulkhead...
LL
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