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Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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BigTuna321
New member
Subscribed !!! saw your pm and decided to take another look at your thread nice progress,, cant wait until the thing has water in it,,, btw your lighting rack looks great :thumbsup:
Progress
Progress
Finished up all but the Rubbermaid sump gravity flow drain today... still no glue sniffing, as I had to make several unplanned runs to Lowes for PVC fittings, lumber and other necessities...
Here's the Rubbermaid and the Reeflo skimmer... need to run a 1" hose from the #3 Overflow to the skimmer feed - a simple last minute project. The Rubbermaid will overflow into a 1-1/4" pipe to drain into the return chamber of the Acrylic sump.
The "T's" in the Rubbermaid feed are for phosban and carbon reactors...
From the front side. Already plumbed into the return chamber (left) are the skimmer and emergency overflow (#4).
Should be time to disassemble all roughed in parts tomorrow and start permanent attachment of the closed loop plumbing. My first try at flexible PVC glueing... :eek2:
LL
Progress
Finished up all but the Rubbermaid sump gravity flow drain today... still no glue sniffing, as I had to make several unplanned runs to Lowes for PVC fittings, lumber and other necessities...
Here's the Rubbermaid and the Reeflo skimmer... need to run a 1" hose from the #3 Overflow to the skimmer feed - a simple last minute project. The Rubbermaid will overflow into a 1-1/4" pipe to drain into the return chamber of the Acrylic sump.
The "T's" in the Rubbermaid feed are for phosban and carbon reactors...
From the front side. Already plumbed into the return chamber (left) are the skimmer and emergency overflow (#4).
Should be time to disassemble all roughed in parts tomorrow and start permanent attachment of the closed loop plumbing. My first try at flexible PVC glueing... :eek2:
LL
Thanks for noticing that potential issue.
No worries, because what you can't see in the second picture is that the 1-1/2" PVC continues to an elbow which feeds to the bottom of the Rubbermaid. You can see the elbow in the first picture. The amount of flow to those 3/4" T's will be controlled by small hose valves anyway. I expect most of the flow to go to the termination of the pipe into the sump.
LL
Last edited:
Hi Ian...thanks for tagging along.
LL
We got doors...
We got doors...
The tank will be "skinned" by red oak veneer and trim. Included will be a boxed-in cover in front of the lights. This will not be an actual "hood" as the top and back will be completely open to the fish room. The cover will hinge up to allow feeding or maintenance from the front of the tank.
There will be (4) large panels that attach to the steel tank stand. There will be matching thin panels on the sides to completely box in the tank to appear built in to the wall.
I purchased the panels from OPM Millworks in Texas. They arrived today, so I tried them on for size:
Back to cutting and dry-fitting PVC...
LL
We got doors...
The tank will be "skinned" by red oak veneer and trim. Included will be a boxed-in cover in front of the lights. This will not be an actual "hood" as the top and back will be completely open to the fish room. The cover will hinge up to allow feeding or maintenance from the front of the tank.
There will be (4) large panels that attach to the steel tank stand. There will be matching thin panels on the sides to completely box in the tank to appear built in to the wall.
I purchased the panels from OPM Millworks in Texas. They arrived today, so I tried them on for size:
Back to cutting and dry-fitting PVC...
LL
JRaquatics
New member
Looking good. Nice job on the plumbing. Every time we do a job it calls for at least two trips to get unexpected items. It really is inevitable. Your project is really turning out nice and can't wait to see it with some water in it.
The plumbing rough in is complete
The plumbing rough in is complete
Finished up the sump and overflow plumbing this evening with the gravity flow from the 100G Rubbermaid back to the acrylic sump.
This is the back of the 36" exterior overflow. Three DIY 1-1/2" durso standpipes plus an emergency straight pipe in case one or more of the dursos gets clogged.
The dual sump system. Overflow #1 flows to the acrylic sump. Overflow #2 flows to the Rubbermaid, which ultimately flows back to the return chamber of the Acrylic sump.
View of the acrylic sump from the front of the stand:
The Rubbermaid overflow terminates with a pipe directed to the bottom of the tank. There are also (2) 3/4" "T'" outlets to feed phosban and carbon reactors.
The reactor feeds with ball valves to control flow:
LL
The plumbing rough in is complete
Finished up the sump and overflow plumbing this evening with the gravity flow from the 100G Rubbermaid back to the acrylic sump.
This is the back of the 36" exterior overflow. Three DIY 1-1/2" durso standpipes plus an emergency straight pipe in case one or more of the dursos gets clogged.
The dual sump system. Overflow #1 flows to the acrylic sump. Overflow #2 flows to the Rubbermaid, which ultimately flows back to the return chamber of the Acrylic sump.
View of the acrylic sump from the front of the stand:
The Rubbermaid overflow terminates with a pipe directed to the bottom of the tank. There are also (2) 3/4" "T'" outlets to feed phosban and carbon reactors.
The reactor feeds with ball valves to control flow:
LL
melev
Well-known member
None of your drains should be submerged more than 1" underwater. It causes back pressure and air can't exit freely. It ends up burping out instead.
I like the wood panels.
For the sump, do you even need those baffles before the return? Why not make it really big, and just have all drains enter that first compartment? You'd still have two baffles (I prefer three), and a larger return zone.
I like the wood panels.
For the sump, do you even need those baffles before the return? Why not make it really big, and just have all drains enter that first compartment? You'd still have two baffles (I prefer three), and a larger return zone.
GDAVIDSON7285
New member
Very nice set up. On your drain i would replace the 90 with tees to keep the from burping if you want them that low and it will keep it from having back pressure
Good advice Marc...The drains will be shortened...all of the drains will have filter socks on them. I am a firm believer in filter socks, which I change religiously...(every day or two).
On the sump, I am going to drill holes in the (inner) baffle(s) before the return to allow a lower "normal" operating level in the acrylic sump...that way, when the pump is shut down, it will give me greater reserve for overflow and start-up. By inner baffle, I mean the one(s) next to the center chamber.
It's a 25" high sump, so I was planning to drill the inner baffle with several 2" holes along a line 15" from the bottom of the sump. That would lower the operating level to 15". Instead of 17.8 gallons overflow capacity, I would have 36 gallons... Should I drill the holes along both inner baffles, or would it be sufficient to just drill the (inner) baffle on the return side?
LL
Thanks for stopping by - I appreciate the observation and suggestion - As Melev suggested above, I am going to shorten that drain... just a few inches underwater and long enough for a filter sock.
Please come back offten. It looks like a freshwater test of the closed loop will happen sometime Wednesday.
LL
Where's the fire?
Where's the fire?
That was Black Mammoth's moving day - He asked firefighters from the nearby fire station to help move the tank...I think he made a donation to the station, or their favorite charity... it's nice to make friends with the FD if you're playing with saltwater and electricity...
LL
Where's the fire?
That was Black Mammoth's moving day - He asked firefighters from the nearby fire station to help move the tank...I think he made a donation to the station, or their favorite charity... it's nice to make friends with the FD if you're playing with saltwater and electricity...
LL
leslie hempel
Member
wow hectic. gonna be awsome
Kellsindell
New member
Wow, things are really moving along. You didn't do anything to seal the holes for the close loop right (to prevent cracking?). Looks great! You are going bare bottom then?
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