Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade

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water test time

water test time

George,

I guess you could take it outside and stick a waterhose in the intake side and see how it flows. I have a funny feeling you are going to end up matching those holes on the second baffle, but I could really be mistaken. I'm just afraid the second baffle is going to slow the flow.

No way to know without testing it.
 
The flow...

The flow...

The only flow going through the acrylic sump is one overflow from the DT. The skimmer and other sump is plumbed into the return chamber of the acrylic.

Do you mean the second baffle over on the intake side?

Thus I don't think that 5 2+ inch holes would impede the limited flow going through there...and even when the return pumps starts up, there should be adequate openings in the baffle to allow water to get to the return chamber quickly...

LL
 
I think it will work. What you are going to observe is any bubbles that go under the first baffle in the sump will flow up and into the refugium. The water will then pour down 2" into the refugium, and macro algae will help impede microbubbles traveling to the holes leading to the return section. Hopefully they won't be too bad going down and under the final baffle.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15284282#post15284282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pacific Reefs
Is there a count down date til this thing gets fired up? I seriously can't wait lol! Looking great.
Click to expand...

I had hoped to do a fresh water test of the closed loop tomorrow, but that's been pushed back a day... hopefully I will get the closed loop all glued together tomorrow afternoon - let it cure overnight and run a garden hose with 10-12" of tapwater in there Thursday. After the closed loop is all water tested... I can then glue the returns and overflows, which actually will go much faster, and fill the tank and sumps for a full systems freshwater test on Friday.

If no catastrophes occur, I will drain the tapwater onto the back yard and start pumping in saltwater on Saturday... I will start making saltwater from RO/DI tomorrow, and run my RO/DI 24 hrs a day through the weekend... I have tanks and barrels to make and store 300G, so that's a "start" :D

LL
 
Tank is looking great. I saw you mention in another thread that your display is a hybrid of glass, acrylic and pvc. Just curious, how are these different materials bonded together?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15287890#post15287890 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
Tank is looking great. I saw you mention in another thread that your display is a hybrid of glass, acrylic and pvc. Just curious, how are these different materials bonded together?
Click to expand...


Acrylic to acrylic is glued. Acrylic to glass is siliconed, as is glass to the PVC bottom. Made by A.G.E. of Garland, TX. http://www.acrylicandglassexhibits.com/

Interesting construction by a outstanding aquarium builder...we have another reefer in this area who has a 600G A.G.E. tank that is all acrylic except for the front glass, which is starphire. In this tank, there is a frame of black acrylic all around the front, to which the starphire is siliconed to the inside. Here's a link to his thread:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1423726
In particular, check out Paul's post dated 7/2/2008. Paul tells me that the 340G actually weighs a bit more than his 600G because of the additional glass and PVC in mine. He should know, because he helped lift both tanks... ;)

LL
 
Last edited:
Re: water test time

Re: water test time

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15283639#post15283639 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lytehouse
George,

I guess you could take it outside and stick a waterhose in the intake side and see how it flows. I have a funny feeling you are going to end up matching those holes on the second baffle, but I could really be mistaken. I'm just afraid the second baffle is going to slow the flow.

No way to know without testing it.
Click to expand...


I actually did that last night... I like it - I could hear no noise from the cascading - the intake chamber still fills up to 19"and flows down the first baffle and under the second. Then the center chamber fills up to the bottom of the holes I drilled and then under the last baffle into the return chamber... I'll just have to watch for bubbles when the flow increases...

I am satisfied...

LL
 
DIY Dursos

DIY Dursos

Here are the parts to one of the three Durso-style overflows I am constructing for the tank:

overflow1.jpg


This is constructed of 1-1/2" PVC - a T, a Street elbow, a cap and 2 pieces of tubing cut to length.

overflow2.jpg


I drilled a 5/64" hole in the top of the cap. This may need to be enlarged, depending on how the standpipe flows...

LL
 
The Dursos and exterior Overflow

The Dursos and exterior Overflow

As posted previously, the tank has an exterior overflow, with two 1" returns, and four 1-1/2" overflows.

The overflow is 36" long, 12" deep and 8" wide.

Here is how I have it configured:
overflow5.jpg


overflow6.jpg


From the front of the tank: (The Dursos will be painted black.)
overflow4.jpg


At first, I wondered why the designer did not continue the black acrylic in front of theoverflow. However, I think it will be advantageous to see inside the overflow to notice any surging or potential blockages... I'll also be able to spot any stupid fish that jump in there. :D

LL
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15289890#post15289890 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TriggerHappyDude
A.G.E makes awesome tanks, both George and Paul are lucky and the envy of OKC!
Click to expand...

And don't forget Eddybabyhd! His is an A.G.E. also...

LL
 
George, the black lid won't fit the overflow with the Dursos that high. Do you plan to drill a hole so the caps fit through it?

A black acrylic inserted inside the overflow will hide it, or a bigger piece of black acrylic could be applied to the inside rear of the tank to hide all the silicone seams of the overflow. I don't like seeing the external overflow at all, and if I get a tank made, I'll probably have them make the tank 6" wider front to back, and then put in a false wall that makes the entire rear of the tank an overflow.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15290293#post15290293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
George, the black lid won't fit the overflow with the Dursos that high. Do you plan to drill a hole so the caps fit through it?

A black acrylic inserted inside the overflow will hide it, or a bigger piece of black acrylic could be applied to the inside rear of the tank to hide all the silicone seams of the overflow. I don't like seeing the external overflow at all, and if I get a tank made, I'll probably have them make the tank 6" wider front to back, and then put in a false wall that makes the entire rear of the tank an overflow.
Click to expand...

I have two options: Either leave the overflow lid off (not my first choice), or measure and cut holes for the caps to protrude though the lid. That is my thinking right now, because I don't think I want to lower the Dursos much more...
I'll wait until I'm circulating water and see how the Dursos perform at various heights...

I have seen a tank online somewhere with the complete back wall as an overflow. As I recall, it was in the 1000G category. Sounds like a fascinating option if you're custom building anyway...

LL
 
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Removed for gluing...

Removed for gluing...

I removed and re-installed all of the threaded connectors in the PVC bottom last night. I feel much more confident about their water-tightness now.

Since I took the drain manifold and all of the return double unions off anyway, I went ahead and removed the closed loop return assemby.

First, I carefully marked all joints with a sharpie so I could assure proper orientation for gluing.

Here are some photos of this strange contraption:
cloop1.jpg


See? It really is a closed loop!

The above design arose from this scribble:
Closedloop2.jpg


Anyway, here is the return feed (the 1-1/2" T) which reduces down to 1" for the flexible PVC which makes that complete circle. Also pictured is the first of the five return feeds
cloop2.jpg


Two of the return connections - which all connect to a double union ball valve:
cloop4.jpg


cloop5.jpg


And the wild child return feed, in which I had to use the T in a different configuration due to location and orientation of the flexible PVC:
cloop3.jpg


So is anybody taking bets? Will this work or is this a freakin' disaster waiting to happen?

We'll find out later today for the freshwater test of the closed loop..

Yes, I'm nervous as heck...

LL
 
A brilliant idea!

A brilliant idea!

I was reading about plumbing and came across the Ed Reef Large Tank thread (split #1) where Ed color coded and painted his PVC plumbing...

YELLOW â€"œ Return from main tank to Sump/ Skimmer
BRONZE â€"œ Return from sump to Chiller
GREEN â€"œ Return from chiller to main tank
BLUE â€"œ Return from CL hammerhead pump to main tank
RED â€"œ Return from main tank to CL hammerhead pump

Here's a link to his plumbing page: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1593987&perpage=25&pagenumber=14

And a photo of the painted plumbing...
Plumbing04.jpg


How brilliant is this? Ed Reef comes up with some incredible ideas for his tanks...

I don't have time to do the painting, but I am going to put color-coded tape on the systems to identify what goes where (for the spouse or others who might help maintain the tank going forward...

Thanks Ed.

LL
 
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